|
Been painting up a Resistance M3 Alexander for Dropzone Commander. Comments and criticism welcome.  
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 21:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 10:06 |
|
|
Airbrush questions! I want to use my current compressor and tank I have in the garage. It's already got a regulator on it but I see a lot of people talking about driers and filters etc? I can get a cheap regulator with a water trap and probably Q/D it at both ends to go from my standard hose to the airbrush hose but if it's not worth the trouble I'd rather not.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
That Alexander looks great! I wonder if you could get a purple or black wash into some of the small crevices that look like they were a touch missed, though. (I'm thinking of the three parallel diagonal vents on either side of the main part of the tank, just in front of the turret, in the first picture. Or in the second picture, the vents on the rear sides of the main body of the tank in the second picture - they're visible just under the red bits that you painted.) Given how nice all of the other vents/etails look, and how well you've washed and highlighted/drybrushed them, having some of those flat stands out a bit. Your weathering looks really great, though, both on the metal bits and on the edges of the turret and treads. How'd you do that? Just weathering pigments?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 22:23
|
|
|
Arcturas posted:That Alexander looks great! I wonder if you could get a purple or black wash into some of the small crevices that look like they were a touch missed, though. (I'm thinking of the three parallel diagonal vents on either side of the main part of the tank, just in front of the turret, in the first picture. Or in the second picture, the vents on the rear sides of the main body of the tank in the second picture - they're visible just under the red bits that you painted.) Given how nice all of the other vents/etails look, and how well you've washed and highlighted/drybrushed them, having some of those flat stands out a bit. Thanks for the feedback , its is still a work in progress but its nearing the end so I though that Id get some general feedback. Ill definitely hit those areas with a second wash now that you mention, though I think what happened in the pictures was that the lighting kind of washed them out (no pun intended). The weathering was criminally easy ; for the metal bits I gave them a black wash then came back to them with a silver highlight and peppering in some striking motions , and for the body of tank I used a piece of the blister pack foam that i had dabbed in some Rhinox Hide and did quick little stabs in the areas i though would see the most weathering. I then went back and highlighted the upper most spots of Rhinox Hide with Dawnstone and then some very thinned down White Scar.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 22:37
|
|
|
I'm wondering if it'd be worth doing some work on the treads, too, specifically painting the tread wheels black or brown, or if you want to leave those blue, maybe paint the treads themselves a brown or grey?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 23:04
|
|
|
Super 3 posted:Airbrush questions! I want to use my current compressor and tank I have in the garage. It's already got a regulator on it but I see a lot of people talking about driers and filters etc? I can get a cheap regulator with a water trap and probably Q/D it at both ends to go from my standard hose to the airbrush hose but if it's not worth the trouble I'd rather not. You can probably just keep the regulator you have now if you want and install a regular moisture trap before it. Or get a nice long hose from your garage to your work area and stick a regulator and trap combo on the end near your desk. Leave the one in the garage wide open. There's load of moisture trap and regulator combos. They don't cost much and pretty much all work the same. Make sure to get a fitting to step down whatever your compressor hose size is to your regulator/trap hose size. And keep in mind airbrush fittings use different thread types than standard air compressor fittings, because reasons... so make sure you're getting the right adapter. A long hose is nice since it effectively acts as a reserve tank and will give you a smooth flow while the compressor catches up. This is pretty much the way we do things at work in our machine shop and lacquer departments. We have two massive air compressors in their own room supplying the whole building and every work station has a moisture/oil trap and regulator right before whatever equipment uses that supply. Our compressors have an air drying system in place as well that runs the intake air through a cooler and a big bucket of granulated silica gel but something like that is completely unnecessary for a home shop compressor supplying a tiny airbrush. You want a moisture trap because water spitting out of your airbrush is annoying with lacquer or enamels and will ruin acrylic finishes. Sauer fucked around with this message at 23:31 on May 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
Arcturas posted:I'm wondering if it'd be worth doing some work on the treads, too, specifically painting the tread wheels black or brown, or if you want to leave those blue, maybe paint the treads themselves a brown or grey? I'm keeping the wheels the same but the panels on the treads themselves I'll paint in a dark grey.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2015 23:18
|
|
|
Sauer posted:
Thanks for the advice I'll probably pick one up and then spend some time bitching about air fittings and adapters.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 00:33
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Here are all my wash recipes. Devlan is, in my opinion, burnt umber with some other colors thrown in. I actually prefer my burnt umber/burnt sepia colors to the GW devlan. A few pages back but do you have more info on your custom wash mixes? Like X parts water / medium per drop of paint? I'm really happy with secret weapon washes but would not mind making some of my own as well.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 03:50
|
|
|
Super 3 posted:Airbrush questions! I want to use my current compressor and tank I have in the garage. It's already got a regulator on it but I see a lot of people talking about driers and filters etc? I can get a cheap regulator with a water trap and probably Q/D it at both ends to go from my standard hose to the airbrush hose but if it's not worth the trouble I'd rather not. Although this has already been pretty much answered, I just wanted to chime in and say that's pretty much what I did. Between Harbor Freight and Amazon, this is the basic setup I have going: Harbor Freight compressor w/3-gallon tank--> inline ball valve shutoff (for emergency shutoff of airflow, in case a hose breaks or a fitting pops off or something)--> moisture trap/filter #1 (no regulator, just a filter)--> quick release coupler (in case I ever want to change out hoses to inflate tires or whatever)--> 25 ft "coily" hose--> moisture trap/filter #2 (this one has a regulator on it, and is mounted to the wall, so I can turn up the PSI on the actual compressor and then adjust it on the fly as needed via the wall-mounted one)--> 6 ft braided airbrush hose--> airbrush Beyond having to fix a couple of leaky spots, it's been working great so far. I've been happily priming, basecoating, and varnishing away 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 07:35
|
|
|
Exinos posted:A few pages back but do you have more info on your custom wash mixes? Like X parts water / medium per drop of paint? Good news- secret weapon washes are Les Bursley's washes, simply repackaged. Watch his video to learn everything you need: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I I tend to go about 60% matte medium and use about double the amount of flow aid he recommends, but that's just my personal preference.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 08:27
|
|
|
GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray! I spray an entire army and my VMC paints will not stick to the models because the AP is too smooth. gently caress. Now I have to hope that a light dullcote will give me enough tooth without ruining things (washes, in particular.) I don't want to have to strip, rebase, and prime an entire army again. 
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 16:45
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray! I've had that happen before and yeah, a coat or two of matte varnish does the trick.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 16:52
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray! I discovered this in the previous thread. Some of their sprays have more teeth than others... gently caress, a whole army!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 17:53
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:I've had that happen before and yeah, a coat or two of matte varnish does the trick. SRM posted:I really love Army Painter spray but it's a pretty lovely primer. My newest batch of Ultramarines are primed white before using the AP Crystal Blue primer, since I was having chipping problems. Nebalebadingdong posted:gently caress, a whole army!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 18:18
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Whew - thanks for the info. You have to be super ginger with Army Painter sprays or else they can cover things up, definitely. I just do quick little sprays as I move the can from left to right and that's generally served me pretty dang well.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 20:37
|
|
|
Finished up my Necromunda Scavvy gang leader. Well, i still need to put a bit of work on the base, a bit of black weathering powder around the exhaust pipes and paint his finger nails.   Once it's done i'm gonna gloss varnish the skin so it should look nice and greasy.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 23:02
|
|
|
..termagant, saurus tail, and demon prince arm? Regardless; Swag. Fake edit: I want to change my first answer to 'ripper'.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 23:06
|
|
|
Cheers! it's pretty much just gutrot spume with the sword swapped out and a forsaken arm jammed in his giblet hole. I used his axe for my autek mohr:
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2015 23:12
|
|
|
The Heckler posted:Cheers! it's pretty much just gutrot spume with the sword swapped out and a forsaken arm jammed in his giblet hole. I used his axe for my autek mohr: God drat do I love this dude. Does he have rules in the 30k books? I love how dynamic the mechadendrites look
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 00:08
|
|
|
That is a loving cool conversion
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 00:11
|
|
|
Yeah he's in book 2. I really liked his fluff, basically he's a complete bastard. The tendrites and grabbers are from zinge industries, they do a lot of cool servo arm bits.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 00:16
|
|
|
This is a long shot, but does anyone know of any 28mm scale Hula Girl models? Or something that would be suitable for making one? Reall I just need the legs and grass skirt, for a secret project DO NOT ASK WHAT THE PROJECT IS!!!
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 17:48
|
|
|
Moola posted:This is a long shot, but does anyone know of any 28mm scale Hula Girl models? Or something that would be suitable for making one? Volcano Queen Breadfruit Edition Now Available This version of the Volcano Queen wears the sacred breadfruit leaf and is available only to customers who purchase a $10 tree from the Breadfruit Institute, to be planted somewhere in the world where food security and de-forestation is an issue. Please message me if you want to add her to your order. She comes both as shown or in slightly more modest garb. Both versions will be included for a $15 donation.  https://pulpfigures.com/products/view/189
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 18:21
|
|
|
Moola posted:This is a long shot, but does anyone know of any 28mm scale Hula Girl models? Or something that would be suitable for making one? Hasslefree do a female blank (full musculature, face but no hair). Grass skirt should be really easy to sculpt?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 19:00
|
|
|
Quite good! Armature also looks quite good cheers
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 20:41
|
|
|
I also started my Callidus, who should be done soon. I'd like some pointers on how to shade her better. I started with Dark Reaper with Thunderhawk Blue on the edges of the highlighted areas, and then went over it with Nuln Oil. I am unsure how I can make it pop as nicely as the ones GW does, and honestly wish they had a how-to video for the assassins. Also, some suggestions on how to go about the C'tan Phase Blade and Neural Shredder would be welcome.  
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 20:55
|
|
|
Moola posted:Quite good! More options https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/female%20human/latest/03559 https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/female%20human/latest/14512 Sorry about the covered boobs.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:I also started my Callidus, who should be done soon. The GW painters did some line highlights in greys to whites. This can be accomplished by setting a line and each successive color coat covering 50-75% of the previous line's space, generally focusing the lighter sections towards the raised portion of the sculpted area. Focus on edges like ears, chins, straps/belts, raised portions of muscle groups, etc. Use a small detail brush and get increasingly thinner lines with each coat. A scenario I recently did went: Abaddon Black > Mechanicus Grey > Dawnstone > White Scar Only abaddon black is a "Base" type paint, meaning it's mostly opaque. The other colors are classified as "Layer" paints, meaning they're partially transparent, so when you do a solid (but thinned) line, the output will be darker than the paint color in the pot. By going from black > dk. grey > lt. grey > white you basically achieve a black to light grey fade. The painters at GW are quite good at their lines, so don't expect magic your first time or two trying this out, however once you get a feel for it, it's not bad and goes down quickly. Just remember to *thin your paints*! The cheater method would be to use a thin line of dawnstone and then just a point dot of white. You can do a quick wash of nuln oil if it stands out too brightly. koreban fucked around with this message at 22:10 on May 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:07
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:More options Protip; dot your boobs with snakebite leather in a manner similar to the way you do eyes, and any covered boob can become uncovered or peakaboob. Best part if you end up with  , it's just natural.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
Does anyone have a guide to painting horses? I just bought into a SAGA Norman army.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
Beerdeer posted:Does anyone have a guide to painting horses? I just bought into a SAGA Norman army. Offer them sugar cubes and stroke their heads 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:43
|
|
|
rofl
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
NTRabbit posted:Offer them sugar cubes and stroke their heads This is not an appreciative empty post
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:48
|
|
|
koreban posted:The GW painters did some line highlights in greys to whites. This can be accomplished by setting a line and each successive color coat covering 50-75% of the previous line's space, generally focusing the lighter sections towards the raised portion of the sculpted area. Focus on edges like ears, chins, straps/belts, raised portions of muscle groups, etc. Use a small detail brush and get increasingly thinner lines with each coat. Think this is still doable after what highlighting I have already done? What are some good substitutes for Mechanicus Grey? I have the other 2 colors.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:54
|
|
|
Uroboros posted:Think this is still doable after what highlighting I have already done? What are some good substitutes for Mechanicus Grey? I have the other 2 colors. From where you are now, take a sample leg, say the left one, and just hit it with thinned dawnstone. If it comes out too light, wash with nuln oil and retouch with the dark blue you used. If you like it, then you're in good shape. Dawnstone is to highlighting what Agrax can be for washes.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
koreban posted:From where you are now, take a sample leg, say the left one, and just hit it with thinned dawnstone. If it comes out too light, wash with nuln oil and retouch with the dark blue you used. Thanks. Any suggestions for the green on the phase blade and neural shredder? All I have is Warpstone Glow, Loren Forest, and Castellan Green so may to need make a purchase.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2015 23:02
|
|
|
Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing? I need to make a TL lascannon for a Razorback, and my cuts always seem a little off. I've tried a normal cut, scoring while rolling and sawing, and neither seem to go well. Any ideas on a good technique for the angled cut on the business end would also be appreciated.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2015 05:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 10:06 |
|
|
Had to replace the nozzle on my airbrush for the first time. Poor thing was all beat up, I'll have to take better care of the new one. It brushes so beautifully now. After like 5 years of airbrushing I finally splurged and got a quick disconnect. It's neat, but how do I get air out of the tank when I'm done for the day? Do you just leave the air in there, or flush it out of the moisture trap?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2015 06:24
|
|
