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My go-to method has always been; 1) 2 turns out at assembly is usually good enough to start with so that you can 2) let it idle until up to temp so that you can 3) adjust your idle up to a fast idle using the throttle stop screw after which you 4) turn the pilot screw IN about 1/4 turn, wait 5 seconds, then do it again until it starts to drop and miss and then 5) start turn it OUT using the same method until it starts missing again at which point you 6) turn it mid way between the two spots where it starts to miss 7) once you've got the fuel screw set, re-adjust your throttle stop screw to an appropriate idle speed This is what I've done on most carbs on single cylinder water cooled engines, so it might be more problematic on multi-cyl engines and/or air cooled ones, I dunno really. A bonus from this method is that if the idle never drops when you're turning the fuel screw in, you need a smaller pilot jet and if the idle never drops when you're turning the fuel screw out, you need a bigger pilot jet. ^^^^ Goddammit Rev.
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May 11, 2015 00:05
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Yeah no spec, I was as astounded as you but I'm looking at the hyoshit factory workshop manual and there's nothing. I'll try that method over the next couple of days and see what I can do. Is a manometer any assistance in this situation, and how fast is a 'fast' idle? The idle is meant to be ~1500 when warm.
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May 11, 2015 03:36
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Here's a question; When I got home earlier I noticed my gear shifter lever was quite floppy and could wiggle side to side quite a bit and was drooping down a bit, I noticed the bolt holding it to the frame was a tad loose so I tightened it up to a reasonable strength. Tightening it too far (without hamfisting it) stops the lever moving at all, do I bother the shop about this or just tighten it just enough and put some glue on it?
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May 11, 2015 20:40
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Knowing what kind of bike it is will help, but I'm guessing your lever doesn't directly connect to the shift shaft, it connects to linkages that work the shaft, and you tightened down the pivot bolt for the lever? If you have a manual, check the torque spec on the bolt you tightened and make sure you didn't over-tighten it. If you don't have a manual, get a manual. It will tell you whether or not to use thread locker.
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May 11, 2015 20:55
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Kawasaki BN125, here we go; Tightening with my fingers gets it comfortable, wrenching it is a fine line of being too tight. 
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May 11, 2015 21:27
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There should be a bolt with a shoulder so that you can tighten the nut fully whilst still leaving enough clearance for the lever to operate. That's probably not the factory bolt in there, or some washer/spacer is missing.
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May 11, 2015 23:08
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diagram: http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b26e7f8700223e4791031/footrests video: please note that if you watch this, you consent to doing a shot every time the narrator uses the word actual or actually. Also, it's all problem and no solution. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMBz_IDI3fk
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May 11, 2015 23:29
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I think you're looking for part 92150 and it's associated washers here: http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b26e6f8700223e4791024/gear-change-mechanism
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May 12, 2015 17:10
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I'm in the process of setting up an interview with victory motorcycles. Does anyone have any interesting anecdotes or knowledge of these bikes past what I can gleam from their website and youtube?
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May 12, 2015 18:38
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Giblet Plus! posted:I'm in the process of setting up an interview with victory motorcycles. Does anyone have any interesting anecdotes or knowledge of these bikes past what I can gleam from their website and youtube? They just announced their TT entry on what was formerly the Brammo platform - I'd be really curious what their plans are around development of the Brammo Empulse platform and what sort of direction they are planning on going with the electrics, as it's a bit of a step away from the old scene for them.
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May 12, 2015 18:51
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I remember using teflon long ago as a chain lube. I see Amazon has a lot of options. Which ones do you guys recommend? DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant, 11-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_keKuvb1XYZHDY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_keKuvb1XYZHDY Also for cleaning prior to lubing? Toothbrush and ..?? Klean-Strip Green QKGA75003 Denatured Alcohol, 1-Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FOSX9U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xhKuvb03CND7M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FOSX9U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xhKuvb03CND7M Maybe? What was the recommended interval for chain cleaning and lubing? About 500?
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May 12, 2015 19:12
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I use kerosene to degrease and heavy-duty gear oil to lube. http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10043-80W-90-Heavy/dp/B0007ZFTOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1431456766&sr=8-3&keywords=lucas+heavy+duty+gear+oil As for frequency, it's whenever so many of my tools are out that I feel like avoiding organizing my garage.
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May 12, 2015 19:53
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Kerosene works wonders for cleaning chains. Alcohol can eat some kinds of rubbers, meaning you don't want it anywhere near an O-ring chain. (Or really anywhere on your bike since you don't want it getting splashed on a brake line either).
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May 12, 2015 19:54
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Damnit yeah kerosene that's what I meant and used to use, thanks!
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May 12, 2015 20:09
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I use this for chain care: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WH1TRU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've only used it a few times but I've been pretty happy with the results.
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May 12, 2015 20:56
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I just squirt some cheap 10w40 on the chain once a week or so. Then before putting it away for winter I clean it with kerosene.
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May 12, 2015 21:06
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Pro tip : Lube / clean your chain after riding when it's still warm instead of before a ride. Better chance of lubricant seeping into the o-rings and less chance it'll all fling off onto your leg / swingarm.
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May 12, 2015 21:14
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Kerosene is without question the best and cheapest way to clean a chain. Chain lube however, is one of those things that's more about preference than anything else and you'll hear a thousand opinions about it. Personally, I hated using gear oil. It's messy and likes to fling off the chain. I like the dupont chain lube you linked quite a bit. Dries to a somewhat tacky wax. Seems to be keeping my chain going 16,000 miles later pretty well.The only disadvantage is the cost which I think is negligible anyway. I use a can or two a season.
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May 12, 2015 21:25
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Collateral Damage posted:I just squirt some cheap 10w40 on the chain once a week or so. Then before putting it away for winter I clean it with kerosene. Isn't that a big no-no for things like o-rings if you aren't lubing it after? Thanks for all the help guys!
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May 12, 2015 21:31
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I like the Bel Ray Super Clean chain lube. You also might want to pick up a Grunge Brush. They work a treat, and you can use them in a bicycle chain as well, if you have one. My basic chain maintenance goes: 1. Spray on Simple Green Motosports Degreaser 2. Grunge Brush the poo poo out of it 3. Spray and brush some more 4. Rinse with boiling water from a kettle 5. Lube I do this about every 500 miles, sometimes more often if it's been really rainy or otherwise filthy.
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May 12, 2015 22:37
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edit: ^^ is that kind of cleaning necessary so often? I thought lube was needed every few hundred miles and cleaning every few thousand. I use this every ~500 miles http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L711-Chain-Lube/dp/B003542HE0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1431466655&sr=8-9&keywords=motorcycle+chain+lube
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May 12, 2015 22:38
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hot sauce posted:edit: ^^ is that kind of cleaning necessary so often? I thought lube was needed every few hundred miles and cleaning every few thousand. Honestly, my interval is probably pretty unnecessary. But I ride about 300 miles a week, so if I do it once a month in the summer, it's still ~700 miles or so between cleanings/lubes. I also ride on gravel a bit, and in the rain a lot, so I figure better safe than sorry.
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May 12, 2015 23:11
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Isn't that a big no-no for things like o-rings if you aren't lubing it after? 10w40 is different than WD-40.
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May 12, 2015 23:16
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May 12, 2015 23:37
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I kerosene my chain with a grunge brush / toothbrush, then power wash the poo poo off, dry it, ride around the block, and then use the dupont teflon lube. Every 500-600 miles or so.
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May 12, 2015 23:45
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Belt superiority: I ignore it until it breaks.
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May 13, 2015 00:39
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I'm in the process of stripping down an XR100. The frame is in pretty good shape but does have a few rust spots here and there. What's the best way to deal with that? I don't give a poo poo what it looks like, just want it as cleaned up as possible so I don't want to strip and repaint the whole thing. Is there some kind of spot paint or something I can hit the spots with after I sand off the rust?
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May 13, 2015 00:53
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Rustoleum?
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May 13, 2015 01:32
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If I bought a used bike, and I'm really too new to have any intuition about how well it was maintained (except that it seems to work well to my very limited experience), should I just do the entire last maintenance going by the odometer right now?
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May 13, 2015 01:33
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Seashell Salesman posted:If I bought a used bike, and I'm really too new to have any intuition about how well it was maintained (except that it seems to work well to my very limited experience), should I just do the entire last maintenance going by the odometer right now? Yes.
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May 13, 2015 01:38
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Slavvy posted:hyoshit Stop trying to make fetch happen. Slavvy posted:Is a manometer any assistance in this situation, and how fast is a 'fast' idle? The idle is meant to be ~1500 when warm. For balancing them to each other later on, a manometer would be handy. That's basically what a Carbtune is (a flashy manometer) after all. For setting the pilot screw(s), I've never used one. I'm sure you could plug it in and use it to set the optimal air flow, but I'm not sure that it would be accurate after you've fiddled with the idle and stuff. If normal idle is 1500, I'd just set it at 2000 or something while doing with this.
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May 13, 2015 01:39
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Stop trying to make fetch happen. What do you mean..? I do indeed have a carbtune, which I've used to balance the carbs on it in the past. Plugging it in and dicking around with the pilot screws didn't seem to have any significant effect on the tool; I'm not sure if that's normal or not as this is only the second carburetted bike I've used it on. It could be that the screws were so badly set that making small adjustments didn't make any difference because they would still have been in the 'way too rich' zone, I don't know. I've set the screws to 2 turns out each and it seems to run a bit better so I'll try your method tonight as circumstances have conspired against me having the opportunity thus far. I've done what you described once before, on a small 4 cylinder, but it was around five years ago and I was asking here on the assumption that I had no idea what I was doing back then.
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May 13, 2015 01:48
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Stop trying to make fetch happen. 
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May 13, 2015 02:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Stop trying to make fetch happen. That reminds me I got cash out of a Hyosung ATM a couple days ago.
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May 13, 2015 03:57
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Stop trying to make fetch happen. 
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May 13, 2015 21:37
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BlackMK4 posted:Tires get warmed from heavy accel/decel, not weaving. I never understood this. Friction is what's keeping the bike from lowsiding if you're weaving, so why isn't that friction warming the tires like accel/decel friction? Is it just an insignificant amount of friction?
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May 13, 2015 22:51
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The amount of friction generated by weaving side to side produces significantly less heat buildup than when accelerating / braking hard. It's just really not that significant.
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May 13, 2015 23:04
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Seriously, can someone explain what this is referring to?
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May 13, 2015 23:09
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Slavvy posted:Seriously, can someone explain what this is referring to? http://youtu.be/Pubd-spHN-0 Uhh I think? But they're also going on about some other poo poo so idk
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May 13, 2015 23:10
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Slavvy posted:Seriously, can someone explain what this is referring to? Mean girls.
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May 13, 2015 23:11
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