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I just run it throgh the airbrush after turning the compressor off. But I think it may be good for the seals and whatnot to keep some pressure on the tank.
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May 14, 2015 06:28
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Had to replace the nozzle on my airbrush for the first time. Poor thing was all beat up, I'll have to take better care of the new one. It brushes so beautifully now. I dunno about your specific setup, but the Harbor Freight compressor/tank combo I got recently has a valve at the bottom for draining air and moisture out of the tank. The instructions say to drain it after each use (as well as just draining it daily whether used or not), so maybe check and see what your particular setup recommends to do. Also I recently got a spare airbrush for cheap off of Amazon (from what I can tell, both the airbrushes I have are basically just Master G22 airbrushes; these ones have no branding, but were sold by Amazon Warehouse or whatever for like $15 with Prime two-day shipping), so that I can use one for painting and one for varnishing (or cannibalize for parts if need be). I also got a couple of quick disconnect couplers so that I can switch between airbrushes on the same hose. As a result, I got a bunch of WW2 Russians finished and varnished today, and a bunch more of 'em basecoated and ready for the painting table. 
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May 14, 2015 07:05
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HardCoil posted:Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing? Its tough. I have a set of files, which includes a large flat one. I usually make a soft cut all around the tube, score two sides, and then make the cut. After that it's a lot of trial and error with the flat file. If you can hold the tube against your table and use a flat file like I do, you will eventually get decent results. At the end of the day, though, its easier to just buy a lascannon bit from ebay.
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May 14, 2015 08:03
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Uroboros posted:Thanks. It's *really* going to depend on which effect you're going for.  This is a Black > Dk Blue > Lt Blue > White highlight drybrushing/fade effect. Just do it the opposite direction from the other flat side of the blade.  This is more of a Dk Green > Lt Green > White drybrushing/fade effect. You keep it consistant along the blade and lightly edge highlight the center line white after acheiving the fade effect.  For this, I'd do a brown base, with Tin Bitz or Sycorax Bronze on flat panels and raised edges (don't get much/any in the corners/crevasses), then wash with Agrax. I would then edge drybrush with Dk Green and highlight extreme edges with Lt Green. Maybe a touch of white on tips/extreme corners.  This is much closer to what you're doing with the highlighting on the suit, only you're going from black base to thick lines of Dk Blue, thinner lines of Lt Blue, and very thin lines of white in a lightning overlay patten. Edge highlight with Lt Blue from the base, fading as you get closer to the tip. A spot or very short edge highlight of white on any curves near the hilt will accentuate the color well. If it comes out too bright, wash with Drakenhof Nightshade before doing the white thin line highlights.
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May 14, 2015 08:56
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You're the best, thanks. Going to give either number 2 a try or number 4 but using greens. It's Neceon tech, it's gotta be green 
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May 14, 2015 12:53
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HardCoil posted:Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing? Tube cutter. Its like the thing plumbers use to cut PVC pipes except in miniature. Consists of a cutting mounted in a vice. You stick the tube in, clamp it against the wheel and turn. You can cut all the way through, or just use it to score a line to guide a razor saw. I then use something called the True Sander to square off the cut edges. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M5JZ7M?vs=1
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May 14, 2015 13:25
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HardCoil posted:Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing? They sell these chopper things that are essentially razor blades on an arm. The arm is straight, but there are angle guides for your styrene. Get to tha choppah!
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May 14, 2015 15:12
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Yeah I'm already considering getting da Choppah!, just wondering if there's any trick to use today. I have a tube cutter, but it seems to crush more than cut. Maybe I can use it to score it and go from there. The sander also looks interesting for a lot of stuff, maybe I could build something like that.
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May 14, 2015 15:24
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I don't know - I've tried everything from freehand, to rolling, to mitre boxes, and I can never get a good cut. I imagine that a Chopper will be my next purchase when I have to do plasticard.
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May 14, 2015 15:38
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Beerdeer posted:Does anyone have a guide to painting horses? I just bought into a SAGA Norman army. There are a bunch of video-guides on youtube. I think this one from Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic helped me the most when I was painting the officer for my Prussian army contingent. I also found this one, which also seems to have alot of nice points. Her voice can get hard on the ears though. For content, heres a picture of the (sort of) finished product. The dude is not overly pretty, but I am quite happy with how the horse turned out:  Fake edit: he's in 18mm scale by the way
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May 14, 2015 15:55
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HardCoil posted:Yeah I'm already considering getting da Choppah!, just wondering if there's any trick to use today. I have a tube cutter, but it seems to crush more than cut. Maybe I can use it to score it and go from there. The sander also looks interesting for a lot of stuff, maybe I could build something like that. The trick is to do it gently and gradually to minimize crushing. I've always found it best to score a line then saw through it. You will need to clean up the edges with a file and sandpaper for the best result. The Chopper is unlikely to be helpful. Its used for solid strip stock, and it's going to crush hollow tube even worse than the tube cutter.
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May 14, 2015 16:51
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It shouldn't be any worse than an Exacto blade. Styrene tubes aren't exactly drinking straws.
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May 14, 2015 16:56
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berzerkmonkey posted:It shouldn't be any worse than an Exacto blade. Styrene tubes aren't exactly drinking straws. The thinner ones will be fine. The bigger tubes on the other hand could well crumple. I've never had good results attempting to chop styrene with blades. Whatever works, but a razor saw is $10 or less vs the $40 chopper. The sanding jig is a better use of $40 IMHO. Edit VVV - Antenociti (of Antenociti's Workshop) once told me that you'll never get an even cut with a blade of any kind, to get a proper straight fit you need to sand the cut surfaces down. Took me far too long to realise how true it was, but once I did, the quality of my work improved massively. Lesson learned, listen to the professional model makers, they're called that for a reason. 
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 19:12
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Yeah I've tried both and I get results that are not impressive, especially considering the cost.
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May 14, 2015 21:43
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Cross posting a chimera I painted from the oath thread:Hixson posted:Oath complete!
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May 15, 2015 05:15
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HardCoil posted:Yeah I'm already considering getting da Choppah!, just wondering if there's any trick to use today. I have a tube cutter, but it seems to crush more than cut. Maybe I can use it to score it and go from there. The sander also looks interesting for a lot of stuff, maybe I could build something like that. Tube cutters do a better job of cutting and not crushing if you can first fill the tube with something like sand.
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May 15, 2015 14:57
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nesbit37 posted:Tube cutters do a better job of cutting and not crushing if you can first fill the tube with something like sand. Yeah, I saw a tutorial, where they said to simply slide the next size of telescoping tube inside while cutting. Makes sense.
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May 15, 2015 15:00
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Had to replace the nozzle on my airbrush for the first time. Poor thing was all beat up, I'll have to take better care of the new one. It brushes so beautifully now. Sydney Bottocks posted:I dunno about your specific setup, but the Harbor Freight compressor/tank combo I got recently has a valve at the bottom for draining air and moisture out of the tank. The instructions say to drain it after each use (as well as just draining it daily whether used or not), so maybe check and see what your particular setup recommends to do. Is there not a pressure release valve somewhere on the tank? Looks something like this:  If you pull the pin via the ring, it opens the valve enough to start de-pressurising it. It will also automatically open if for any reason the pressure in the tank exceeds a safe value, preventing the tank from exploding.
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May 16, 2015 03:33
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Keeping brush rinse water in an old beer bottle finally ended in not-hilarity. Yuk.
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May 16, 2015 04:39
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At least you probably don't use cadmium paints... probably.
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May 16, 2015 04:52
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Paint Confession : If I'm using acrylics I will stick the brush in my mouth and suck on it to straighten it out after I've cleaned them and to get residual paint out of it. It really does keep them straightened out.
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May 16, 2015 05:44
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Hollismason posted:Paint Confession : If I'm using acrylics I will stick the brush in my mouth and suck on it to straighten it out after I've cleaned them and to get residual paint out of it. It really does keep them straightened out. I do this all the time and anyone who tells you you're going to die from it is being paranoid. It's fine. I've been watching the PaintingBuddha videos and Ben Komets constantly licks brushes with paint on them. It's a bad habit I have slowly started to pick up.
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May 16, 2015 05:47
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YAY! , not alone.
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May 16, 2015 05:50
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Same here. Had a friend ask me at dinner once why I had silver flecks all over my lower lip.
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May 16, 2015 06:21
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I usually don't do it with metallics cause who the gently caress knows whtat's actually in there.
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May 16, 2015 06:25
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The same thing with nearly every chemical we use in miniatures/scale models... cancer.
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May 16, 2015 06:59
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Hollismason posted:I usually don't do it with metallics cause who the gently caress knows whtat's actually in there. Did you explain to him that it was just some boltgun metal or was there a less embarrassing cover story, like it was actually glitter from tonguing a strippers butt?
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May 16, 2015 07:14
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Deanut Pancer posted:Be very careful about unscrewing those valves whilst there's any pressure in the system. They will fly out like a bullet and embedded in a floor/desk/wall/arm/face.  Badger didn't think of their demographic when they designed this. There's no way my hand can reach that thing comfortably. Also wow these things get dusty after like 4 years.
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May 16, 2015 07:18
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Deanut Pancer posted:Be very careful about unscrewing those valves whilst there's any pressure in the system. They will fly out like a bullet and embedded in a floor/desk/wall/arm/face. Oh, that same valve is also there, it's called an "emergency release valve" or something similar, it's on the side of the compressor/tank setup I have. The valve I was talking about is the one on the bottom that drains both air and moisture from the tank. The instructions say to only turn it once or twice, just enough to get the air (and any moisture) to start releasing, and on no account should the user attempt to remove that particular valve. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 10:07 on May 16, 2015 |
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May 16, 2015 07:50
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My boss for my kow 10km orcs using pendraken miniatures. A mate is doing a kislev army and are gonna play on an ikea coffee table.
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May 16, 2015 11:46
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Sydney Bottocks posted:The valve I was talking about is the one on the bottom that drains both air and moisture from the tank. The instructions say to only turn it once or twice, just enough to get the air (and any moisture) to start releasing, and on no account should the user attempt to remove that particular valve. Oh hey, thanks, I didn't know that worked like that
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May 16, 2015 12:19
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So I'm trying to strip paint off of some minis, which I've done before without a problem, but I was SO SURE they were painted awesome (they weren't) that I was never going to paint them again (I am) that I sealed them in some kind of varnish or clear coat. I soaked the plastic minis (space marine tactical squad) in brake fluid, then degreaser and, well, long story short I've soaked them too much and the paint is mostly off but the models are...squishy. Squishy and kinda smoothed out. The squad is damaged, but worrying about that is much less important than not making this mistake twice. I'm still intent on stripping the paint so I'm here for help. Is there some trick to getting the clear coat off? I put it on years and years ago and have no idea what it is, some spray from walmart. My plan this time is to soak the minis for far, far less time, and use a tooth pick on the crevasses - it's the deep cracks and recesses that were stubbornly holding on to the paint, and I was worried if I tried to paint them in that state it'd ruin all the model detail.
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May 16, 2015 21:13
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I've been meaning to ask, does anyone have experience with using oil paints to highlight? I've only seen them mentioned here for washes. I've been using a tube of german field grey highlight for my dropzone commander stuff and generally it has been a very fun experience. They stay wet much longer and you can push them around, feather them or even scoop them up completely using a brush dampened with turpentine for a long long time. At some point they seem to dry completely, darken a bit and become resistant to turpentine. I haven't tested out the limits of that but my current guess would be about 24 hours. Coverage also seems really good and nicely controllable when feathering. I just finished the panels lines on my starsprite drones and if it got too wide i could just push it back into shape with a little turpentine which made the whole experience way more relaxing. The highlights on the... domes? were done in a single pass by loading a little paint straight from the tube and swinging the brush side to side, starting from the front and slowly moving back, somewhere between drybrushing and feathering. For the noses i stippled a little paint into place and then feathered it out, again in a single pass. 
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May 16, 2015 22:35
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Talked to some the GW guys at today's Warhammer World Grand Opening, about the brushes they said that Winsor Newton DO make the Artificer brush - it's not the top of he range but the next down (so not Kolinsky sable but sable, that's how I took that). The brushes do look good but if you already have a set of Series 7 or other Kolinsky sable brushes just keep using what you're happy with. BTW if anyone wants to see my photo album from the day (new models, loads of new display boards) here's the link: https://plus.google.com/photos/101792256154658567736/albums/6149526483284482033 I didn't take pictures of the older items in the exhibition hall, because I already had them from the old exhibition hall (click here https://plus.google.com/photos/101792256154658567736/albums/5936205578977392769). Also, here are my photos from last year's Warhammer Fest, which includes an awesome Zone Mortalis display that is not in Warhammer World: https://plus.google.com/photos/101792256154658567736/albums/6068994686867709921?authkey=CKaF682N9oWwQw
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May 16, 2015 22:51
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Alright, so I am about 90-95% on my Callidus, and could use anymore advice people are willing to give.   So, I went ahead and did lines in Dawnstone, and I do like how they turned out. That being said I am unsure if I should try to go back over them in White Scar. I kind of hosed up the Phase Blade, but that is largely because I lack any greens to give that proper transition from White > Green. I imagine I will fix that whenever I get a chance to buy more. I tried to make some lightning effects on the neural shredder but it didn't turn out to great. When it comes to the base I planned on chucking some gravel on there and dry brushing it with leadbelcher. I want to give the impression that she is inside a ship of some sort, but am unsure how to do it.
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May 16, 2015 23:39
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I have a lot of annoying things to say, but I'll confine them to the last bit about the blade. The eye determines blue, red, and green. Blue is a minority receptor in comparison to red and green. People who can't detect green are generally not inconvenienced in the natural world. The presence of a green receptor similar to the red one gives a sense of bifocal vision around the color yellow, which is the color of our sun. If you want to create a graceful transition, you should not be attempting to make an (impossible) transition from green to white. But a transition from green to yellow to white. If you intend for the blade to be a bluishgreen, then make a transition from white to blue to green. It's cheating, but it has a better chance of working. Green is a bullshit color living between the genuine colors of red and blue. Don't be sucked in by its propaganda. Also establish a lighting environment. If you're at that level of painting. What you've got is a competently painted textured model, but it could be floating in a fluorescently lit cafeteria. It doesn't evoke its environment with bounce lighting, tinting, and secondary lighting.
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May 17, 2015 03:01
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krushgroove posted:Talked to some the GW guys at today's Warhammer World Grand Opening, about the brushes they said that Winsor Newton DO make the Artificer brush - it's not the top of he range but the next down (so not Kolinsky sable but sable, that's how I took that). The brushes do look good but if you already have a set of Series 7 or other Kolinsky sable brushes just keep using what you're happy with. Ok I have to admit, I would pay admission to see those dioramas in person 
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May 17, 2015 03:19
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Super Waffle posted:Ok I have to admit, I would pay admission to see those dioramas in person Ugh
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May 17, 2015 10:10
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
I've got the same compressor. The black cover comes off with 6 screws near the bottom (feet are removable as well) and there's most definitely a relief valve on the bottom.
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May 17, 2015 10:36
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Moola posted:Ugh I'm a modeller, not a list builder, so the fact that people are unimpressed by the display boards is mind-boggling to me. I do wonder if most of these comments about the dioramas come from players who refuse to play against unpainted armies.
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May 17, 2015 11:03
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