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thespaceinvader posted:I'll never quite understand, I don't think, the concept of clamp storage. Isn't clamp storage just a shelf you clamp your clamps to? Yes but ironically
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May 15, 2015 18:36
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bimmian posted:I'm trying out a new philosophy in my shop, "Everything must have a home". I think it's zen or something. So I finally started something I've wanted to do for awhile, tool wall right above my bench. Maybe you don't care but look into the french cleat style (the woodgears guy uses it and many others) so you can re-arrange things more easily as required.
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May 15, 2015 23:40
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Sylink posted:Maybe you don't care but look into the french cleat style (the woodgears guy uses it and many others) so you can re-arrange things more easily as required. That's pretty much all I've used elsewhere, I just find this style cleaner and it works well with your day-to-day 'core' tools. It still allows for some rearranging, certainly not as dynamically of course. French cleats will be used here too though, I'll have 2'x4' worth just to the right of this board, works out well with an 8' bench. I'll likely have all my hand planes on that side. bimmian fucked around with this message at 00:32 on May 16, 2015 |
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May 16, 2015 00:28
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All done my campaign travelling bookcase, fun little project, but it's quite deceiving with the number of dovetails, dados and grooves that need to be done. Same with the hardware, lots of brass to inset.  Made out of cherry with book matched white cedar back panels.  All half-blind dovetails to add to the cool factor.  My router plane earned its keep insetting these corners.  More cedar in the drawers.  Wish i could use it as plane storage, but it's up in the bedroom on the wife's dresser now.
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May 16, 2015 02:47
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Wish i could use it as plane storage, but it's up in the bedroom on the wife's dresser now. If your wife took that one, sounds like you need to make another one! Seriously, that looks amazing. 
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May 16, 2015 05:24
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bimmian posted:That's pretty much all I've used elsewhere, I just find this style cleaner and it works well with your day-to-day 'core' tools. It still allows for some rearranging, certainly not as dynamically of course. French cleats will be used here too though, I'll have 2'x4' worth just to the right of this board, works out well with an 8' bench. I'll likely have all my hand planes on that side. A 3rd of my walls are filled with cleats too, but I like the look of this more. I made a small one next to my table saw and it's really neat. I think for my future workbenches I'll use this over cleats. One good thing is the holders are smaller and they don't lift up along with the tool half the time. Also these some cheap clamps, wonder how much they suck, got several of the smallest and a few of the bigger ones to test them out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291319778074
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May 16, 2015 07:45
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His Divine Shadow posted:
Wow those are crazy cheap. $3-4 shipped from China and yet they still somehow make a profit, however small. As long as they don't break immediately they could be useful for some basic jigs, at least ones that won't result in losing body parts if they fail.
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May 16, 2015 16:24
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bimmian posted:Hah, I'm discovering the same thing... "where the hell did all these screwdrivers come from??"  The boxes are all on a French cleat. I didn't really plan out the random tools cabinet, but it's working well so far. I figure if I need to rearrange I can just move any racks and just ignore holes or grab some dowel and plug them.
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May 17, 2015 02:44
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This seems neat. Rapid drawer joinery technique. http://www.break.com/video/how-easy-is-making-a-box-this-guy-made-it-easier-2856727
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May 17, 2015 05:27
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I thought that drawer build was clever but at the same time I thought, well ok sure a lot of things are faster if you get a custom blade made for it.
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May 17, 2015 05:47
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Sylink posted:I thought that drawer build was clever but at the same time I thought, well ok sure a lot of things are faster if you get a custom blade made for it. Yeah, if one were mass-producing drawers or something, it's gonna save a ton of time. If you need six or eight drawers? Just use a box joint or splined miter.
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May 17, 2015 05:51
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Crimpanzee posted:This seems neat. Rapid drawer joinery technique. Do the guy a favor and link to the original video. Don't support freebooters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S074ke-EJ6U As for the drawer thing, it seems fussy. And this is already a thing with a 45 degree router bit, not sure the minor change to the joint is going to offer much more strength. I could be wrong though and this might be the next big thing.
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May 17, 2015 06:12
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Seems like the same basic principle as a lock miter, with a little less work and a table saw instead of a router/shaper, but good on him for having the ingenuity to come up with a different (and perhaps better, depending on your shop situation) way to do it.
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May 17, 2015 06:57
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I'm sure if you had that blade you'd use that joint for everything, it looks pretty good. I assume the 45' router works the same way, cut nearly all the way through, fold at the join? Depending if you have a table saw or router one or the other will suit you.
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May 17, 2015 07:52
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That blade is ingenious. You could do that joint with several passes with a router and different bits, but having a blade set up to do it just seems really cool. I hope he gets his patent and licenses it to someone who will pay him appropriately. His cable vise project is also very cool.
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May 17, 2015 11:58
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Pretty cool setup, completely useless for me with my euro saw though :/
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May 17, 2015 13:54
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Yeah, I'm gonna be super-annoyed when I eventually start trying to follow North American woodworkers' tablesaw projects and they're all 'now I put in a dado blade'...
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May 17, 2015 15:20
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Crimpanzee posted:This seems neat. Rapid drawer joinery technique. I thought about getting that shaper bit years ago but never was motivated. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-Double-Lock-Miter-3-4-Bore/C2125 Oh look, there's a router bit that does it too. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Corner-Lock-Miter-Bit-1-2-Shank/C1331 http://www.grizzly.com/products/Corner-Lock-Miter-Bit-1-4-Shank/C1711 e. stabbington posted:Seems like the same basic principle as a lock miter, with a little less work and a table saw instead of a router/shaper, but good on him for having the ingenuity to come up with a different (and perhaps better, depending on your shop situation) way to do it. Yeah, gotta love the guy. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:03 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 16:56
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thespaceinvader posted:That blade is ingenious. You could do that joint with several passes with a router and different bits, but having a blade set up to do it just seems really cool. I hope he gets his patent and licenses it to someone who will pay him appropriately. That's why he's trying to license it, because he's already got the rights to the idea. Sorry Patent Pending = Patent Applied for != Patent awarded MickRaider fucked around with this message at 16:00 on May 20, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 17:24
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I think it is a great idea and I would buy one.
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May 17, 2015 17:50
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Crossposting from the stupid questions thread in CC, thought maybe someone here might know! I have a wooden art panel from Dick Blick, and three sheets of thin plywood (6" x 12") that I'm planning on lasercutting. The laser cutter I have access to can only fit one piece of the plywood at a time, but I'm planning on sizing up a vector image that takes up the whole area (so 18" x 12" total) and I want to stick them down to the wood panel surface to form the final image. What I'm curious about is the best way to stick down a mostly flat piece of 1/8" thin plywood to the surface securely. Would wood glue be a good solution for that? There should be quite a bit of surface area left after the cutting for coverage.
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May 17, 2015 18:10
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MickRaider posted:Patent pending means the patent has been awarded and he's just waiting for the final paperwork and patent number. Thanks! I've never been quite sure why 'patent pending' was considered protection, to my mind it just meant 'I've put the application in'. E: redcheval posted:Crossposting from the stupid questions thread in CC, thought maybe someone here might know! I have a wooden art panel from Dick Blick, and three sheets of thin plywood (6" x 12") that I'm planning on lasercutting. The laser cutter I have access to can only fit one piece of the plywood at a time, but I'm planning on sizing up a vector image that takes up the whole area (so 18" x 12" total) and I want to stick them down to the wood panel surface to form the final image. What I'm curious about is the best way to stick down a mostly flat piece of 1/8" thin plywood to the surface securely. Would wood glue be a good solution for that? There should be quite a bit of surface area left after the cutting for coverage. Wood glue would be fine, just make sure you get good coverage and good clamping pressure. For a big board, evenly distributed heavy weights on top are probably the best way.
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May 17, 2015 18:13
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thespaceinvader posted:Yeah, I'm gonna be super-annoyed when I eventually start trying to follow North American woodworkers' tablesaw projects and they're all 'now I put in a dado blade'... Do our tablesaws not take stacked blades?
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May 17, 2015 18:38
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Cakefool posted:Do our tablesaws not take stacked blades? Nope, I've never seen one that does. I tend to read such instructions as "now grab your router and a dado jig".
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May 17, 2015 20:06
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thespaceinvader posted:Thanks! I've never been quite sure why 'patent pending' was considered protection, to my mind it just meant 'I've put the application in'. Patent Pending = Patent Applied for != Patent awarded MickRaider fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 20, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 20:29
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Cakefool posted:Do our tablesaws not take stacked blades? My (limited) understanding is that dado stacks aren't permitted by some EU regulations, so we don't get the option to use them without importing from North America, and can't use them in employment capacities at all.
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May 17, 2015 22:18
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What's the best way to fill a big hole in end grain? This was the leftover from some rot. It's about 1/4"x1/2"x3" deep. Should I make a plug and glue it in, or fill the whole thing with epoxy? It's going to be on a back corner so it won't be too visible.  
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May 19, 2015 00:59
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oxbrain posted:What's the best way to fill a big hole in end grain? This was the leftover from some rot. It's about 1/4"x1/2"x3" deep. Should I make a plug and glue it in, or fill the whole thing with epoxy? It's going to be on a back corner so it won't be too visible. Mix some sawdust from that job with epoxy or glue.
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May 19, 2015 02:52
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MickRaider posted:Patent pending means the patent has been awarded and he's just waiting for the final paperwork and patent number.
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May 19, 2015 03:24
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oxbrain posted:Should I make a plug and glue it in, or fill the whole thing with epoxy? Yes to Wood plug.
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May 19, 2015 05:00
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oxbrain posted:What's the best way to fill a big hole in end grain? This was the leftover from some rot. It's about 1/4"x1/2"x3" deep. Should I make a plug and glue it in, or fill the whole thing with epoxy? It's going to be on a back corner so it won't be too visible. You don't happen to have any cutoffs from that piece do you? Even if you don't, that color doesn't look like it'd be too hard to match with another species for a plug. Or you can embrace the "If it isn't exactly the same, make it completely different" philosophy.
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May 19, 2015 13:40
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gvibes posted:That's not how the term is normally used, at least in the US. patent pending == patent applied for.
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May 19, 2015 18:15
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bimmian posted:You don't happen to have any cutoffs from that piece do you? Even if you don't, that color doesn't look like it'd be too hard to match with another species for a plug. Or you can embrace the "If it isn't exactly the same, make it completely different" philosophy. The only pieces I have are different enough color/grain spacing that they'd be noticeable anyway. I think I'm going to plug it most of the way and use epoxy and some wood chips or sawdust to cover. On a future project I'm going to try some florescent pigmented epoxy. Something along these lines. 
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May 20, 2015 02:47
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Picked this up to power my jointer/planer, a 2.2kw 3-phase Asea motor, most likely made before WW2:   It's open frame, but I was told when asking around that it's mostly an issue with single phase motors and their complicated starting circuits, just hose this one out with air now and then. It also works, the bearings are in better shape than most of my other newer motors and it runs almost silently. I think it exuded a higher build quality despite it's appearance, than a modern sealed motor. I hope the windings have a lot of life left though, it seemed to work just fine for the couple of minutes I tested it. Don't have a megger so I can make sure. I'd like to strip and refinish the exterior as well. It's such a cool motor, and it weighs more than my 4kw motor that was made in the 60s/70s.
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May 20, 2015 05:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:Picked this up to power my jointer/planer, a 2.2kw 3-phase Asea motor, most likely made before WW2: Seeing all your neato 3 phase toys makes me want to dig up the yard and run an additional 5 x 2.5^2 to my shop. Then I remember that my shop is all of 3.5x2.5m so I wouldn't have space for all the nice and cheap Marktplaats used commercial grade machinery. It is sort of annoying to see a 3.6kW multi function saw, jointer, thickness planer, spindle moulder with a sliding table being sold for €375. Knowing that despite the fact that I can make the thing work, there is no way it'll fit in my loving tiny shop.
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May 20, 2015 15:45
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http://grovemade.com/product/maple-monitor-stand/?initial=65 How difficult would this be to duplicate with Red Oak? I'm a mechanical person but I have access to a full woodshop, knowing next to nothing about wood.
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May 21, 2015 01:38
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If you have 30 minutes to kill, here's a video from the BBC's Handmade series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2JAWLAQuzY Nice way to zone out for a bit and watch a chair come together.
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May 21, 2015 02:32
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BlackMK4 posted:http://grovemade.com/product/maple-monitor-stand/?initial=65 That looks like plywood with a maple veneer to me. I'm not super-familiar with wood bending techniques, but generally they either require steam or building up the shape out of multiple thin (e.g. 1/8") layers. When you've achieved the thickness you want you can just glue a veneer on to get the desired appearance.
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May 21, 2015 02:43
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BlackMK4 posted:http://grovemade.com/product/maple-monitor-stand/?initial=65 I've never done steam bending, but by initial thoughts based on wood movement would be that you would have to use quartersawn wood to avoid cupping (because it is so thin and wide) and you probably will have a hard time finding a piece of quartersawn red oak that wide. If you do find it, it will be expensive and I doubt you are going to get a lumberyard to chop an 8' board down to 24" to save you some money. Best option might be to find an 8' quartersawn board 2" wide or so, then cut it into four 24" strips and edge glue them. I'd check the yellow pages for hardwood dealers and explore those options before setting foot in a big box store. Personally (and I might be in the minority), I think red oak would look cheap and tacky no matter how good of a job you do building it. Have you considered other common hardwoods such as walnut, cherry, or maple? Curly maple with a shellac finish is pretty sweet.
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May 21, 2015 02:46
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Hmm, I think you're right. 1/8" sheets of various hardwoods are available online - and fairly cheaply. I'm going to experiment a little bit, I think the difficult part will be making the mold which the wood gets bent around since it will need to be as wide as the final product but solid. Kinda like doing a carbon fiber layup... I'm just not real experienced with wood.  I do like the maple you described, but would prefer something darker since my desk is stained black.
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May 21, 2015 03:03
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