|
Are there any rules for writing a good artist's statement? I have never been able to see the point of one, but I have a show coming up soon and need one, and probably not the one that I generated with an artist statement generator. I never know what to write for these, and the ones I tend to see up in galleries/art shows seem to be a lot of random words strung together without actually saying anything meaningful. I honestly don't know how to articulate what my artwork is "about," since I just ... make it. There's no motive or reasoning behind it. Anyone else in the same boat who has some success stories about writing these horrible things? I have read plenty of tutorials online and they really don't actually help much.
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2015 20:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 03:05 |
|
|
neonnoodle posted:banque Awesome, thanks for your help everyone!
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
threnody posted:Are there any rules for writing a good artist's statement? I have never been able to see the point of one, but I have a show coming up soon and need one, and probably not the one that I generated with an artist statement generator. Why not just describe as plainly as possible what you think you're physically doing? There's got to be some sort of common thread, unless you work in all mediums and in every style. "I make steel sculptures, mostly based on various Greek myths" or "I make abstract digital collages." Maybe add another sentence or two for more specifics. You don't have to say it's "about," "questioning," or "examining," anything. People will have their own responses, that's the point.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 23:32
|
|
|
Guess I'll start here...I'm trying to remember an artists name that I ran across a few years ago (I think there was a documentary about him?) and it's been driving me crazy for days trying to google him. I think he was German. Anyways what made his work unique and really interesting to me was he took meta-physical/super-natural/spiritual topics and made almost like scientific/blueprint paintings about them, very technical looking. I don't remember specifics but I think he had paintings about planes of existence, states of consciousness, multiple dimensions of reality...that kind of stuff bordering on time-cube level :P Does anyone have any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2015 16:02
|
|
|
I'm waffling on whether to start using the Oxford comma again. I used it in high school but got sick of being told it was wrong, so I stopped. Also, should I use a comma before a conjunction in a sentence? Thinking about these things is too hard; somebody needs to dictate how I should write, damnit!
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2015 14:27
|
|
|
Always use the Oxford comma. "I'd like to thank my parents, Ayn Rand and God." "I'd like to thank my parents, Ayn Rand, and God."
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2015 14:55
|
|
|
Maybe you artistic dudes can help me with something. I want my lock screen on my phone to have the picture on the left as its background. But I want my home screen's background to be a, uh, glossy (?) (blurred?) version of it, similar to what the artist did for the image on the right.   I'd like to know if there's an easy way to do this myself and how I would go about doing so.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2015 22:17
|
|
|
This is pretty simple to do in Photoshop. Here's my take on it: The main effect is just a "lens blur" set to a pretty big radius. I also messed around with the brightness/contrast, saturation, and color balance but that's secondary. You could also get a roughly similar effect by just applying a Gaussian blur. In photoshop you just go to Effects > Blur > [either lens or Gaussian]. They both let you preview the effect as you mess with the settings, so it's pretty simple to get what you want.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2015 02:38
|
|
|
Aha! Looks simple enough indeed. Looks like I'll have to bother my cousin to let me use his computer for a bit since I don't have photoshop. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2015 22:30
|
|
|
Butt Savage posted:Aha! Looks simple enough indeed. Looks like I'll have to bother my cousin to let me use his computer for a bit since I don't have photoshop. Thank you. You can download a free 30-day trial that has all the functionality of the full version: https://creative.adobe.com/products/download/photoshop
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 10:12
|
|
|
There's also GIMP, which is fine for simple edits like that.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 14:19
|
|
|
Might crosspost this if there's an applicable thread in the DIY forum but I thought checking here would be a good idea too! I have a wooden art panel from Dick Blick, and three sheets of thin plywood (6" x 12") that I'm planning on lasercutting. The laser cutter I have access to can only fit one piece of the plywood at a time, but I'm planning on sizing up a vector image that takes up the whole area of all three sheets (so 18" x 12" total) and I want to stick them down to the wood panel surface to form the final image. What I'm curious about is the best way to stick down a mostly flat piece of 1/8" thin plywood to the surface securely. Would wood glue be a good solution for that? There should be quite a bit of surface area left after the cutting for coverage.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 18:04
|
|
|
Not sure if there is a dedicated thread for this but could I get some recommendations for some free drawing/painting software?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
redcheval posted:Might crosspost this if there's an applicable thread in the DIY forum but I thought checking here would be a good idea too! I have a wooden art panel from Dick Blick, and three sheets of thin plywood (6" x 12") that I'm planning on lasercutting. The laser cutter I have access to can only fit one piece of the plywood at a time, but I'm planning on sizing up a vector image that takes up the whole area of all three sheets (so 18" x 12" total) and I want to stick them down to the wood panel surface to form the final image. What I'm curious about is the best way to stick down a mostly flat piece of 1/8" thin plywood to the surface securely. Would wood glue be a good solution for that? There should be quite a bit of surface area left after the cutting for coverage. I'd sand the surfaces you're going to glue with a low grit sandpaper to give them some tooth, brush or roll on the wood glue on the cut pieces, press in place by hand and wipe up any oozes, then lay wax paper over it. Then clamp (or weigh down) another piece (or pieces) of wood to apply even pressure over that until dry. The wax paper keeps the project from getting glue to anything you don't want glued.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
redcheval posted:Might crosspost this if there's an applicable thread in the DIY forum but I thought checking here would be a good idea too! I have a wooden art panel from Dick Blick, and three sheets of thin plywood (6" x 12") that I'm planning on lasercutting. The laser cutter I have access to can only fit one piece of the plywood at a time, but I'm planning on sizing up a vector image that takes up the whole area of all three sheets (so 18" x 12" total) and I want to stick them down to the wood panel surface to form the final image. What I'm curious about is the best way to stick down a mostly flat piece of 1/8" thin plywood to the surface securely. Would wood glue be a good solution for that? There should be quite a bit of surface area left after the cutting for coverage.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 21:01
|
|
|
Anony Mouse posted:I've never cut plywood but I can't imagine that would end well unless it's specifically formulated to be laser cut. Plywood is basically layers of wood chips held together with glue and chemicals, so not only is the material density inconsistent but as soon as you start lasering it those chemicals and glues will burn off in nasty ways. If you haven't already, do some test cuts on a throwaway piece of your material so you know how it will react to being cut. If your plywood is thin enough it would probably be fine, but if it isn't you don't want to find out by ruining your stock. Good points. I wasn't even considering the qualities of the plywood in laser cutting. Grade and knotty-ness would affect the results. We talking OSB or Birch or Pine plywood?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2015 21:15
|
|
|
Laser cutting 1/4" Baltic birch plywood is super standard. Do some test cuts for sure, but unless you are using a thick plywood it should be fine.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 00:25
|
|
|
Subyng posted:Not sure if there is a dedicated thread for this but could I get some recommendations for some free drawing/painting software? Haven't used it myself but I've only ever heard good things about Krita.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 06:17
|
|
|
I figure this is the best place to ask since it's a CS thing. In the past couple of weeks, my "Open" finder window thing has been playing up in Illustrator. Once I get 3 or 4 subfolders deep the Finder window stops snapping to the next column, and doesn't show the quick look previews at all (they're still there, I just can't scroll over to them properly). All of my Finder settings are good, and the file preview works everywhere else including PhotoShop, InDesign, etc. so I'm stumped. it's like this, if I scroll quickly to the right it'll bounce briefly into view:  I'm running Yosemite 10.10.3 on a MacBook Pro, and I'm pretty sure I haven't updated anything that would be causing this. help 
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 12:19
|
|
|
Can anyone suggest a way to eliminate the reflection of the lights on the car? Would using LED's minimize it some? The entire light box is already diffused, for what its worth. Thanks!!
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 21:53
|
|
|
Circular polarization filter.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 23:01
|
|
|
kedo posted:Circular polarization filter. I already use one, it helps a bit on the sides, but the top is always really harsh. If I use LED lights instead of the fluorescent tubes I use now will they still create the same issue, just small spots instead of long lines?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 23:20
|
|
|
Bojanglesworth posted:I already use one, it helps a bit on the sides, but the top is always really harsh. If I use LED lights instead of the fluorescent tubes I use now will they still create the same issue, just small spots instead of long lines? Hmmm. Have you tried bouncing the light off a light, matte surface? This is just another layer of diffusion but it might help a bit as it would create more of a flat light rather than intense hot spots. I imagine LEDs would indeed just create smaller spots of light instead of bands.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2015 23:34
|
|
|
Bojanglesworth posted:I already use one, it helps a bit on the sides, but the top is always really harsh. If I use LED lights instead of the fluorescent tubes I use now will they still create the same issue, just small spots instead of long lines? Use a vertical polarization filter instead of circular? The flat surfaces are all going to cause the light to be horizontally polarized.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 02:35
|
|
|
armorer posted:Laser cutting 1/4" Baltic birch plywood is super standard. Do some test cuts for sure, but unless you are using a thick plywood it should be fine.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 07:34
|
|
|
Is their a thread for sound design/foley/film scoring? Can't find one but maybe the title just escapes me.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 15:37
|
|
|
Can anyone suggest a program on either PC or Mac that will allow intervalometer type of controls for Canon?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 20:11
|
|
|
Anony Mouse posted:I've never cut plywood but I can't imagine that would end well unless it's specifically formulated to be laser cut. Plywood is basically layers of wood chips held together with glue and chemicals, so not only is the material density inconsistent but as soon as you start lasering it those chemicals and glues will burn off in nasty ways. If you haven't already, do some test cuts on a throwaway piece of your material so you know how it will react to being cut. If your plywood is thin enough it would probably be fine, but if it isn't you don't want to find out by ruining your stock. It's thin plywood (eighth inch). I've definitely put some research in and it's been tested on the particular laser cutter I'll be using! I'll be doing test cuts with extra pieces as well beforehand. Arriviste posted:I'd sand the surfaces you're going to glue with a low grit sandpaper to give them some tooth, brush or roll on the wood glue on the cut pieces, press in place by hand and wipe up any oozes, then lay wax paper over it. Then clamp (or weigh down) another piece (or pieces) of wood to apply even pressure over that until dry. The wax paper keeps the project from getting glue to anything you don't want glued. Awesome, thank you! I'll try this out! mareep fucked around with this message at 02:43 on May 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I want to make a presentation for a course I'm doing, in this style of animation/presentation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhlRgwdDc-E Does anyone know what software would be good at producing that type of animation? I know it's relative to my knowledge and skills, but how long would it take to produce something like that? edit: I might just use this: http://www.powtoon.com/ unless anyone has another suggestion? Lascivious Sloth fucked around with this message at 07:42 on May 22, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 07:35
|
|
|
That's almost certainly After Effects.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 07:50
|
|
|
While it starts to suck as you get a couple of levels deep in complexity, keynote is amazing for spitting out animated movies with low effort. For someone who doesn't want to manage the complexity of full on video editing software, I think it's a decent in between.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 12:36
|
|
|
My father is retiring here in a few months. He worked in a job where he was fortunate enough to spend the money to become a preeminent world authority in a specialized niche hobby (as an analogy, think Spanish postal history or Montana bison history, something weirdly specific). He wants to write a book on the subject, but has zero writing experience. I would like to buy him a retirement gift that would help him get started. He is very intelligent, but inexperienced. I'm open to all ideas, from educational materials to pens to software. I have no idea where to even begin. What do you recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
Got into a bit of an argument today, I had believed that DPI didn't mean much of anything in Photoshop anymore, that dpi is basically a deprecated way of handling image quality and everything is just absolute resolution (length and width of the image). The other person claimed that DPI was hugely important, especially in web development. Searching the internet it seems these opposing view points are both strongly expressed. Also this person claims that when you take a screenshot of your desktop, it is always stored at 72 dpi, and thus if you put that screencap into a canvas that is set to 300 dpi the image pasted will be absolutely tiny. What is the truth of this matter?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2015 17:54
|
|
|
Yes, screengrabs are stored at 72dpi (at least on Windows). When you paste them into a 300dpi document, they are low-res. DPI/PPI is still very meaningful in raster programs like Photoshop. There is no such thing as "absolute resolution" in raster applications, because you're still essentially working with a grid of pixels. The density of that grid is what determines the level of detail in a given spatial dimension. If I create a new document that's 3 inches by 3 inches at 1200 dpi, that means something very different than 3"x3" at 12 dpi. Likewise, a "pixel" has no absolute size; its size is determined by PPI. If I make an image that's 12 pixels by 12 pixels, and decide that the DPI is one pixel per inch, that's a one-foot by one-foot grid. 
neonnoodle fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 23, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2015 18:09
|
|
|
And aren't retina screen screenshots at like 114 dpi? Pixels have gotten a hell of a lot less important in terms of laying out a website, but you still need to consider resolution of raster stuff especially when trying support high res devices.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2015 18:42
|
|
|
BigHead posted:My father is retiring here in a few months. He worked in a job where he was fortunate enough to spend the money to become a preeminent world authority in a specialized niche hobby (as an analogy, think Spanish postal history or Montana bison history, something weirdly specific). He wants to write a book on the subject, but has zero writing experience. I would like to buy him a retirement gift that would help him get started. He is very intelligent, but inexperienced. I'm open to all ideas, from educational materials to pens to software. I have no idea where to even begin. What do you recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 03:40
|
|
|
DPI is still ridiculously important. Choosing the wrong dpi for your intended result is going to be pretty bad from having a lovely blurry image on one end, and bloated computer crashing file sizes on the other. Also he's right about the 72dpi thing.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 06:09
|
|
|
What is a good pen/marker for drawing upon (dry) acrylic on canvas?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 01:41
|
|
|
You might try getting some of those empty barrel markers that you fill with your own pigment and fill them with either liquid acrylic or with fluid acrylic cut with airbrush medium. Don't try to dilute with too much water only (they say only up to 30% water in an acrylic mixture) or you might not get a good bond to the surface. Or, you know, use a sharpie.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 01:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 03:05 |
|
|
raging bullwinkle posted:You can download a free 30-day trial that has all the functionality of the full version: https://creative.adobe.com/products/download/photoshop KillHour posted:There's also GIMP, which is fine for simple edits like that. Popping in to say I finally had a chance to try out one of these and I've been having a lot of success with GIMP's gaussian blur filter. Thanks a lot, guys!
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2015 01:44
|
|