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Super Aggro Crag posted:Now my CEL came on, code P1071 saying its too lean. Put some Seafoam in the tank to try and clean the fuel injectors and any carbon deposits. Engine Power Reduction code came on as soon as I left the gas station. Am I hosed or what? If you're getting a lean code you most likely did what STR said: you hosed up the gasket and now it's dragging in unmetered air. Got get a new gasket. Seafoam does basically nothing in your fuel. So on that point you just wasted money, but no harm past that was done.
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May 23, 2015 21:52
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Phew. Pulled the battery for 15 min and the engine power reduction mode went away. That scared the poo poo outta me. Ah I posted this in the wrong thread. SS/SC's run pretty lean anyways and most aftermarket CAI's throw that code. My old Injen did so I switched to a ZZP and never had the code pop up again until today. I was having idling issues for a while so last night I cleaned my TB for the second time since I've owned the car. Followed the same procedure but this time the idle was even worse. I believe I screwed with something when I moved the butterfly valve to clean the carbon buildup around it. My car has an adaptive PCM so I think it will go back to normal after I drive it enough. Aside from the idle problem it was running great until the CEL came on today.
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May 23, 2015 22:23
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stevobob posted:Replaced the front struts+mounts. Exciting! I finished up putting new bumpstops, boots and strut mounts on last night. Put a rear strut tower bar in as well since I was getting tired of all the rattling from back there in tight corners. I was going to mess around with replacing the rear swaybar today but just haven't been able to get up the enthusiasm.
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May 23, 2015 23:04
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Not my ride but I've helped a coworker do oil, plugs, plug wires, air filter, front brakes, and brake fluid on her new NA Miata. Still need to do the timing belt, water pump, coolant, mtrans, and diff fluid. That car is so hilariously easy to work on and actually pretty fun to drive. Still slow as balls and needs a turbo or engine swap, but I'm starting to think Miata people might not be completely insane.
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May 24, 2015 00:48
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Pulled the steering wheel off to realign it on my junker truck. Didn't have a tool so I just whacked the backside with my palm. When it finally came free it vigorously liberated itself into my face. Thought I had broken my nose for a few minutes but turns out it's fine.
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May 24, 2015 00:58
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PaintVagrant posted:Yet another 8th gen civic cmc job This was almost trivially easy, especially compared with how difficult the last one was. It went so smoothly (and so few car things have gone smoothly for me recently) that I fully expect to be struck by lightning tomorrow as I roll out of bed
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May 24, 2015 03:31
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Installed a new distributor. After getting it in and giving it a test run I found that my intake manifold gasket is bad. Now I must remove the distributor. e. also lol shops are charging around $900 for this job. The complete parts list to do the whole job was $50 off amazon. It should arrive thurs. so weather permitting I know what I'll be doing all day Friday. Ramsus fucked around with this message at 08:06 on May 24, 2015 |
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May 24, 2015 04:52
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Installed a new cabin air filter. It was a huge pain and I don't think I ever really got the foam seal at the top to sit right. I guess I should count my blessings though since all I had to do was remove the glovebox and I hear tell that on many cars much more disassembly is required. I also did a fuel pressure test and found out that I'm about .2 bar out of the acceptable range, which could explain my long term fuel/air mixture too lean issue. I need to replace the fuel filter anyway so I'll start there and work on down the line. Is there a good way to electrically test a fuel pump in situ? I can access the top via an access hatch under the rear seat.
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May 24, 2015 19:03
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First post here in forever because it's been forever since I owned a vehicle that had problems small enough that I could handle them. On Tuesday I bought a 1997 Ford Ranger, Wednesday it went to a local mechanic to fix the big stuff (front end fuckery) and yesterday I picked up a few things. Replaced the windshield-washer pump, but the old one might have just been suffering from some sort of delay in the system. I had to hold the button down for a long time to get the juice flowing through the new one, but even now with the hoses full of liquid it only responds after holding it down for 2 seconds or so. I don't know if I was ever that patient with the old one but w/e, it's done. I also did the air filter, because I don't know how long it's been and that's something that's easy and cheap even for a half-wit like me.  SD 143 Central Foothills 1 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrAnd the right-side brake light was blown, so that got swapped too. The tire pressures on the left side are wacky, the back is too low (around 20psi), the front was waaaaay high (around 50!), which I brought down to about 35, and I'll stop in at the tire pump at the gas station today to sort that weirdness out.
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May 24, 2015 20:29
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We'll make a swastika-hating mechanic out of you yet, ExecuDork. Fantastic work all around. Does the washer spray immediately if you pull the hoses off the jets? You may have to point the hoses directly at your face or something else that shouldn't get wet in order to verify correct function. If it works fine you might need to soak the jets in something or just put in new ones.
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May 25, 2015 00:31
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Thanks, SSS! That's a good idea for the washer pump, I'll try to get my nose in there and have my "colleague"* hit the button. Also, WTF small-town Alberta gas stations, why do so few have air compressors for tires? Seriously, I visited 3 gas stations, 1 in Tomahawk (population 65) and 2 in Drayton Valley (population 7000) that did NOT have a way to pump up car tires before I found the Fas Gas in Drayton Valley. * My field assistants laugh uproariously when I describe myself as their boss. This has happened before with different assistants, I think I don't project an air of authority. Maybe I should be less nice? Or yell more? Having one of them spray me in the face with my own truck's windshield-washer will be unlikely to improve this situation. EDIT: I forgot to mention a new personal best! The very first thing I tried to do on my truck, the washer pump, was not at all how it was described in the Haynes manual I spent way too much time finding in Red Deer the day I bought the truck. It describes undoing 2 screws, lifting the reservoir out, then prying out the old pump. My windshield-washer fluid reservoir is the same lump of plastic that forms the overflow tank for the coolant; they're two wells connected by virtue of coming out of the same plastic-extrusion machine, and there's no obvious way to cleanly remove them from the engine bay without draining the cooling system and moving some other stuff out of the way. At least the brake light was as described. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 06:52 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 06:20
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Now my CEL came on, code P1071 saying its too lean. Put some Seafoam in the tank to try and clean the fuel injectors and any carbon deposits. Engine Power Reduction code came on as soon as I left the gas station. Am I hosed or what? Motronic posted:If you're getting a lean code you most likely did what STR said: you hosed up the gasket and now it's dragging in unmetered air. Got get a new gasket. Dude, go spend the loving $2 on a new throttle body gasket instead of ignoring everyone. Your car is doing EXACTLY what mine did when I cleaned my throttle body the first time, right down to the reduced power light and lean code (and yes, I moved the butterfly too - it's no big deal on this TB, there are two throttle position sensors in it, and it normally calibrates itself pretty quickly once the battery is connected, just key on/engine off for about 30 seconds and stomp the throttle, then let go a couple of times). Get the new gasket, torque it down in a star pattern like you're changing a 4 lug wheel, and remember the bolts don't need to be much beyond finger tight (the torque spec is in the tens of ft/lbs IIRC). And make sure your valve cover breather hose is connected (leaving it off won't cause idle issues, but it'll cause a lean code - and probably a bit of a mess if you have any blowby). Worst case, you spend  at the dealer for the gasket instead of $2 at O'Reilly's (I could only find one O'Reilly's within 15 miles with one in stock - didn't check anyone else except AutoZone, where it was special order). Visibly, the original gasket had a very, very tiny tear in it once I replaced it, and I had to stretch it slightly.Next time you clean it, snag an extra gasket ahead of time. They're a lot like the valve cover gasket - thin rubber and easy to damage. I need to clean my throttle body soon again (idle is bouncing a little with the a/c on), and don't plan to remove it until I have a spare gasket. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:20 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 10:14
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ExecuDork, straighten out a regular office staple and root around in the washer nozzles with it for a bit, I bet it clears things right up. I can't even remember how many times I did this at the quicklube I worked at, no one thinks of it but it works perfectly to break up the fine silt and algae washer fluid nozzles get plugged with. E: also check how rusty your shackles, shackle hangars, leaf hangars, shock mounts, brake lines, and rear frame crossmember (the one that supports the spare tire) are. In Canada they will all need replacing sooner or later if they haven't been already, so it is better to find out they are hanging by a thread before they fail and poke holes in the truck bed. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:41 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 12:37
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I have found when my washer jets go lovely its due to using soap in the reservoir. I cleaned mine and ran a full tank of rain-x + water in the recommended ratio through them and they have been fine since. to think I nearly went to the trouble of ordering after market washer jets from japan via a freight forwarder Or retrofitting Fluidic-type nozzles when all it took was a god drat pin and some solvent.
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May 25, 2015 13:27
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Vinyl patched a baby split forming in the soft top behind my ear  I should get a hard top when I'm not poor
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May 25, 2015 15:38
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PaintVagrant posted:This was almost trivially easy, especially compared with how difficult the last one was. It went so smoothly (and so few car things have gone smoothly for me recently) that I fully expect to be struck by lightning tomorrow as I roll out of bed Not sure if anyone has ever done this "mod" to a K20-series car (rsx-s, civic si/etc) but holy poo poo. The old CMC was hosed and shifts were notchy and the clutch takeup was basically at the floor. I had to stomp the clutch to the floor to get it into gear at anything over 5k rpm, and I got locked out of gear over 7k. I have been babying the car since I bought it, grandma driving around waiting to finally install this Em1 cmc. The shifter just loving glides into gears now, at any RPM, and I can shift REALLY fast! No lockouts or bullshit, I can thrash on the car like it deserves  I ordered some base and cable bushings too to clean up a little slop in the shifter, but drat I am so happy with is now. Its so much more fun to drive.
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May 25, 2015 16:00
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The Delta platform GMs with a manual have a plastic CMC as well. And it's just as prone to failure (pretty sure mine is failing, the clutch engages at random points and it's occasionally difficult/crunchy to get into gear). It's not that difficult to get to.. 3 guesses where the slave cylinder is though. 
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May 25, 2015 16:03
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I assume it's somehow inside the transmission itself? So far every car I've worked on has nice external clutch hydraulics. Admittedly incredibly difficult to get to, especially on the FA5 where the huge intake manifold makes it very difficult to get to the slave.
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May 25, 2015 16:25
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I've honestly had less trouble with plastic clutch cylinders (both master and slave) than I have with iron ones. Plastic walls don't corrode like iron ones do when the fluid inevitably absorbs moisture from the air, as long as the pressure isn't too high for the cylinder design there's no real issue.
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May 25, 2015 17:47
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The Honda ones that are pretty garbage have plastic internals, and they start to disintegrate and leak fluid/do weird poo poo. Il not sure if the inner walls are plastic lined or metal tbh.
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May 25, 2015 19:18
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kastein posted:ExecuDork, straighten out a regular office staple and root around in the washer nozzles with it for a bit, I bet it clears things right up. I can't even remember how many times I did this at the quicklube I worked at, no one thinks of it but it works perfectly to break up the fine silt and algae washer fluid nozzles get plugged with. Awesomeness, thank you. I'm gonna go get under the back end right now. I think there's a stapler around here somewhere.... EDIT: That staple cleanout seems to have worked, the response is faster and actually seems to be coordinated with the position of the wiper blades. Thanks again! I had a look underneath the back end, I found lots of surface rust but the underlying metal seems pretty solid. One of 9 illustrative photos:  Ranger Rust Hunting 8 by Martin Brummell, on Flickrand a couple of videos:  Ranger Rust 1 by Martin Brummell, on Flickr Ranger Rust 2 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe back-right corner (the second video) is falling apart, but it all seems to be just body panels, nothing structural. I have some experience with POR-15, if I clear back to clean metal and slather some POR-15 on, will that at least stop the rot from spreading (very fast)? ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 05:45 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 02:22
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PaintVagrant posted:I assume it's somehow inside the transmission itself? So far every car I've worked on has nice external clutch hydraulics. Admittedly incredibly difficult to get to, especially on the FA5 where the huge intake manifold makes it very difficult to get to the slave. It's inside the bell housing. So while not technically inside the transmission, getting to it requires dropping the transmission. ... which requires dropping the subframe.  Whenever the clutch goes, it's getting a brand new slave cylinder. Which will add nearly $200 to the clutch job, and that's ordering it from Rockauto. Looks like the only choices are a brand I've never heard of (AMS), Centric (no thanks), and Sachs (I'm okay with that, they're the OEM for a ton of clutch parts for plenty of car makes). And of course it's specific to only the Ion, despite the same drivetrain combo being used in everything from Cavaliers to Grand Ams to Cobalts to G5s to who knows what else.
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May 26, 2015 05:57
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some texas redneck posted:Whenever the clutch goes, it's getting a brand new slave cylinder. Which will add nearly $200 to the clutch job. Wut.. And i thought my van one was expensive. Gawd.
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May 26, 2015 13:39
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some texas redneck posted:It's inside the bell housing. So while not technically inside the transmission, getting to it requires dropping the transmission. blech!
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May 26, 2015 14:19
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PaintVagrant posted:Yet another 8th gen civic cmc job I need to do that the click is driving me nuts.
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May 26, 2015 15:34
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Mr-Spain posted:I need to do that the click is driving me nuts. Yeah mine had moved from click to full on crunching noise at times. The Hybrid kit is a bit more pricey than building it yourself out of the EM1 cmc + brake lines and fitments, but I am lazy and it worked great. I think it was 175 bux, which if I recall correctly the cmc itself is like 80-90 bux of that.
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May 26, 2015 17:27
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some texas redneck posted:It's inside the bell housing. So while not technically inside the transmission, getting to it requires dropping the transmission. 
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May 27, 2015 12:49
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So a couple months ago i bought a trailer light board, for when i transport stuff longer than my van's cargo area. It turned out that when the indicators were on the other lights would dim, indicating a bad earth somewhere in the wiring. The other day i pulled the trailer wiring in the van to check it, despite clearly being fitted by an idiot, it seemed to be  So the problem was in the trailer light board's wiring itself, removing one of the lights revealed that the wiring that ran from each light to the 7-core cable was waaaay too small a gauge, so no surprise the lights were dimming with it all under load. Isn't it great when you buy something new and have to completely re-engineer the entire thing to make it work right? No. It isn't. Anyway, i decided to ditch the poo poo incandescent lights too and get some nice LED Autolamps ones, and replace all the wiring too. Old undersized wiring removed:  New wiring added and soldered together, then covered with heatshrink:  Turned the van into a mess, filling it with tools and poo poo:  And finished, with the load projection marker screwed onto it for good measure, one less thing to strap onto it. Much better, now with all functioning LED lights:  I now have the world's most expensive cheap trailer light board. I only paid £15 for the thing in the first place, i've now spent more than twice that on the lights. (Brake/tail/indicator, fog, numberplate)
Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 20:07
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some texas redneck posted:Whenever the clutch goes, it's getting a brand new slave cylinder. Which will add nearly $200 to the clutch job, and that's ordering it from Rockauto. Looks like the only choices are a brand I've never heard of (AMS), Centric (no thanks), and Sachs (I'm okay with that, they're the OEM for a ton of clutch parts for plenty of car makes). And of course it's specific to only the Ion, despite the same drivetrain combo being used in everything from Cavaliers to Grand Ams to Cobalts to G5s to who knows what else.  Why is it so expensive, is it the same slave cylinder used on a corvette or something like that? The clutch I put in my Focus in 2006 came with a new slave cylinder/throw out bearing, and if I wanted to buy one it was $30. gently caress GM...
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May 28, 2015 00:17
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No loving idea. I'll probably price one from the dealer just for shits and giggles (they quoted me $70 for a thermostat, even the guy at the counter was shocked at how expensive it was), but those prices are from Rockauto. It likely doesn't help that it's a part used for only one model, and that model was only made from 03-07. Hell, up until recently you couldn't even get a replacement clutch master cylinder from any parts store or Rockauto for an Ion, you'd have to go to ebay ($50ish) or the dealer (add another 0). The best part? I just looked up a slave cylinder for the same year Cobalt (same engine, same transaxle, same chassis, and many parts swap between the Ion and Cobalt). $80 cheaper for the Cobalt part (assuming a Sachs part), and from the photo, it looks like the exact same part. They used this driveline combo (L61 Ecotec 2.2 + Getrag F23) in everything from Cavaliers to Grand Ams to Cobalts to Aleros to G5s to HHRs to Ions to who the gently caress knows what else (they even used it in the Vue SUV). For that matter, this transaxle was used in pretty much every manual-equipped 5 speed FWD that GM made between 2000-2010 worldwide. It's not exactly an uncommon transmission, and the 2.2 is probably the most common 4 cylinder GM used in the US around the same time. I'll have to see if any parts stores nearby have both of them in stock, so I can visually compare them. I honestly can't see why they'd use a different slave simply because it's in an Ion instead of a Cobalt, when they're the same chassis and nearly identical mechanically. To be honest, when the clutch does go, I'm really tempted to swap in the gearbox from a Vue - it's still a Getrag F23, but has much shorter gearing (4.41 final vs 3.84, 5th is 0.81 vs my 0.69). It'll wake it up quite a bit, though I'll have to get someone to flash the ECU for the new final drive. Actually finding one would be a bitch though, they made very few with a manual. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:27 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 07:22
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If it fits, it ships. And if it doesn't fit, it gets a load projection marker and then it ships.
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May 28, 2015 21:35
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Changed out thermostat housing. Scraped the stuff off of the water outlet with and old plastic gift card. Added the foil heat shield to the pcv line since it requires the housing to be removed anyways.  old housing new housing, new sensors, new sensor clips, new gasketGot delayed by a bit because it started pouring rain  Got the new one in, but it leaks out of where the front elbow piece joins to the rest of the housing when the engine is at high RPMs.  Any ideas on what to try now?
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May 29, 2015 16:07
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Any ideas on what to try now? Remove it and check the O-ring. If all appears good clean it with brake cleaner, then fill the groove the O-ring sits in with silicone sealant, push the O-ring in, then smear it with silicone too. Bolt it back to the housing, leave to dry for a couple hours and reinstall the whole assembly.
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May 29, 2015 16:26
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Just replace the O-ring. Seriously they are so drat cheap it is not worth screwing it up.
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May 29, 2015 18:07
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Commodore_64 posted:Just replace the O-ring. Seriously they are so drat cheap it is not worth screwing it up. I thought that was brand new with the housing. Hmm.
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May 29, 2015 18:11
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The thermostat and its ring were reused because I just replaced those in November.
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May 29, 2015 19:24
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SperginMcBadposter posted:The thermostat and its ring were reused because I just replaced those in November. Oh, in that case just get a new O-ring.
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May 29, 2015 19:33
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Going to a car cruise in a few hours, but guess who has a passenger side window that now won't go back up? Glad I have a cover for the car, but now I have to pull the door apart and see if the motor is dead or just whether the wiring is screwed up. drat you, 1987 Mustang.  Guess I'll pray that it doesn't rain tonight. Off to Walmart to buy some toiletries for troops. Count Freebasie fucked around with this message at 19:25 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 19:21
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Mocked up some brackets to fit additional lights on the front of the car. Not 100% sure on either the brackets or which lights to use.    Need to get them welded up and drilled, mount the lights and see how much i like them. Leaning towards my Hella 181 spots over the LEDs.
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May 30, 2015 21:39
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Commodore_64 posted:Just replace the O-ring. Seriously they are so drat cheap it is not worth screwing it up. Yeah, don't rtv it. The only reason I had to do a water pump on my Ranger was because the PO thought he should smear RTV all over the o ring, which made it leak.
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May 30, 2015 22:00
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