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some texas redneck posted:Yup. First clue on stepdad's F-150 (5.4) was a coolant leak from what at first appeared to be the thermostat housing. Then it started throwing codes for running lean, had an odd idle (not rough, but it wasn't steady), etc. Still drove fine, but mileage went to poo poo, and it felt a little down on power. I forget the name, but i think there's an aftermarket company that produces a replacement inlet manifold that's redesigned so this doesn't happen again, also (typically) cheaper than an original dealer replacement.
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May 26, 2015 23:50
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Shop replaced it for him, hasn't had any issues since.
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Dorman. Pretty affordable too, it's $160ish on Rockauto for the 5.4. The shop that did the work gave him a lifetime warranty on both parts and labor (the part has a lifetime warranty anyway, but I've never heard of a shop giving a lifetime labor warranty). I think with the shop markup, he wound up paying a bit over $200 for the part, and not much more in labor. I noped the gently caress out of replacing it for him; I'm not digging that far into an engine I don't own, I learned that lesson a long time ago. All of the vacuum lines on it are brittle as poo poo anyway.
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May 26, 2015 23:59
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Someone once chucked a 5.4 plastic manifold at another pepboys employee. It shattered when it hit the wall. He did the same thing a week later with a metal manifold and broke the track for one of the bay doors. Plastic ford manifolds SUCK DICK! In panther chat why are exhaust manifolds such an easy job on a Grand Marquis but a bitch and a half on a Lincoln....
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May 27, 2015 00:21
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SouthsideSaint posted:Plastic ford manifolds SUCK DICK! In panther chat why are exhaust manifolds such an easy job on a Grand Marquis but a bitch and a half on a Lincoln.... DOHC vs. SOHC? edit: Huh, I could have sworn the Town Cars got the "InTech" DOHC version of the 4.6 but apparently that was only in the Continental, Mark VIII, and Aviator. wolrah fucked around with this message at 01:18 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 00:28
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poo poo I think it was a SOHC. Either way id rather do them on panther cars then ford trucks
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May 27, 2015 00:37
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Points to Mooseykins for calling it. The plastic EGR hose that runs from my valve cover to the intake broke apart. Again. It broke once and dad and I bodged it back together, but apparently our fix failed so we had to patch it back together again: It's not pretty, but it works 
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May 27, 2015 19:32
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T1g4h posted:Points to Mooseykins for calling it. The plastic EGR hose that runs from my valve cover to the intake broke apart. Again. It broke once and dad and I bodged it back together, but apparently our fix failed so we had to patch it back together again: EGR? Isn't that brake booster vacuum supply?
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May 27, 2015 19:48
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Mooseykins posted:EGR? Isn't that brake booster vacuum supply? It runs from the top of the passenger side valve cover, over, and plugs into the throttle body. I just sorta figured it was EGR related
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May 27, 2015 19:54
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T1g4h posted:It runs from the top of the passenger side valve cover, over, and plugs into the throttle body. I just sorta figured it was EGR related Maybe just a breather, not too familiar with Ford Modulars. (We don't get them here.) EGR would be a metal pipe, so it doesn't melt while it sents hot waste exhaust poo poo into your engine to slowly ruin it and drain your wallet.
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May 27, 2015 19:55
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Mooseykins posted:EGR would be a metal pipe, so it doesn't melt while it sents hot waste exhaust poo poo into your engine to slowly ruin it and drain your wallet. Spoken like someone who has never had the experience and joy of replacing a DPFE sensor on a Ford Focus  You'd think they'd use metal for that particular situation for the exact reason you described, but no. Plastic. e: that being said, you're right, it's the PCV breather and not EGR. This being Ford though, I'm never sure anymore. T1g4h fucked around with this message at 20:01 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 19:58
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T1g4h posted:Spoken like someone who has never had the experience and joy of replacing a DPFE sensor on a Ford Focus I haven't, but i can assure you i've done as bad/worse many times. My old job was lasrgely the reject jobs no other shop would touch, so i dealt with all the poo poo. T1g4h posted:You'd think they'd use metal for that particular situation for the exact reason you described, but no. Plastic. Sense, reason and logic and not used in vehicle design or engineering very often. You'd think someone in the engineering team would point out that dumping hot exhaust into plastic isn't a good idea. 
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May 27, 2015 20:15
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The EGR valve and associated hardware on my Altima had a rubber hose running into it. Well, many of them. But one of them was special. That hose indeed carried hot exhaust. Not as much as the rest of the EGR tubing, but I found out in a hurry how quickly vacuum lines melt under both heat and pressure when I replaced it. I was wondering why it only lasted a week, then put my hand over the hole in the hose with the engine running. The air coming out of it was more than a bit hot. The original hose had been rubbing against the injector harness and wore a hole through it, causing an EGR code (and melting some of the tape on the harness). The hose was NLA from Nissan, but they did have a cut to fit version that replaced it ($20 for about 12 inches of hose when I only needed about 3.... but it was rated for EGR temps). It was a hose running from a metal tube on the intake manifold to the EGR transducer (whatever the gently caress that doohickie is).
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May 28, 2015 09:18
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some texas redneck posted:The EGR valve and associated hardware on my Altima had a rubber hose running into it. Well, many of them. But one of them was special. Silicone hoses can withstand much greater temperatures. In fact, soldering irons often come with silicone cables so idiots like me don't melt the cable with the iron. This still doesn't mean it's a good idea to use stuff-that-isn't-metal for EGR pipes. In fact, gently caress EGR, all it does is dump poo poo into your engine to make it less reliable. Stupid engineers.
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May 28, 2015 12:57
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The girlfriend is in need of a newer car, as her '98 Beetle barely passed inspection...so her grandmother gave her their car as they are getting too old to drive - a 2000 Grand Marquis with 34k on the clock. I already offered her my CTS as a trade, but she says that isn't sporty enough for her - ah well, guess I'll have to find one of my own. Can't wait to take it on road trips after making sure none of the coils are on their way out. I am already jealous of the velour interior and split bench seats....anything to watch out for aside from the coils?    
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Jun 1, 2015 22:58
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T1g4h posted:So, possibly dumb question, but where should I start looking to diagnose a rough idle when my 2001 CVPI first starts? Idle Air Control motor is brand new, just replaced it and the gasket maybe a few months ago. It's had a CEL for a long time now due to an exhaust leak at the passenger side header, EGR flow insufficient or something similar, but the rough idle is recent. It just started doing it maybe a week or two ago, tops. It sounds almost like a miss but after 15 - 30 seconds it smooths out and idles like normal, albeit with a somewhat muted exhaust note. Let me know if you figure it out, I have had the same problem for the last 10k miles. Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 05:54
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Mooseykins posted:If it's Supercharged. A naturally aspirated 5.4 bolts right in. (4.6 and 5.4 are Ford Modular engines on the same block architecture.) Ok then what about the 32valve motors? is it a direct bolt in or are the heads to big?
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Jun 2, 2015 18:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ok then what about the 32valve motors? is it a direct bolt in or are the heads to big? Apparently it fits, but don't hold me to that. The 32v being the Coyote/Voodoo, as is found in the new Mustang, it should fit fine. As i understand the heads are all that's (largely) changed, and they don't appear any/much larger than 3v heads. Also, the 4.6 Supercharged engine (SVT Cobra) may fit a Panther car, as it fits under th Mustang bonnet/hood fine. Maybe the 5.4 SC uses a different blower/intake and as such is taller. May be possible to put a 4.6 blower on a 5.4 and bolt it in for ultimate sleeper value. (Or just go Kenne Bell on a 5.4 and drop it in.) Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 18:56
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Holdbrooks posted:Let me know if you figure it out, I have had the same problem for the last 10k miles. I found mine. The PCV breather tube that goes from the passenger side valve cover to the throttle body had snapped in two, fixed that and it runs fine again. I doubt yours is busted in half like mine was, but you may want to check and see if it's cracked or loose.
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Jun 2, 2015 20:55
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ok then what about the 32valve motors? is it a direct bolt in or are the heads to big? The engine itself fits but there are clearance issues with other things in the engine bay, IIRC it was something mounted on the firewall that caused the biggest issue. I think it was one of those things where you could move things around and/or not hook up certain "optional" accessories like A/C and it would fit. I'm pretty sure any of the roots-style superchargers require additional hood clearance with a cowl style setup or a hole. wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 15:34
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It would be cool to do a proper super charged engine, with just a small cowl, just enough to keep it subtle. I just don't have the shop space to do anything right now. I was offered a cheap crown vic (500 - the body was really nice) with bad timing chains, I figured the motor is trash, but if I am going to do it, I would add some power, maybe a different rear axle gearing.  The things about life... never enough space, time or money or any combination of those.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:47
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wolrah posted:The engine itself fits but there are clearance issues with other things in the engine bay, IIRC it was something mounted on the firewall that caused the biggest issue. I think it was one of those things where you could move things around and/or not hook up certain "optional" accessories like A/C and it would fit. Probably the brake booster/master cylinder. BrokenKnucklez posted:It would be cool to do a proper super charged engine, with just a small cowl, just enough to keep it subtle. I just don't have the shop space to do anything right now. I was offered a cheap crown vic (500 - the body was really nice) with bad timing chains, I figured the motor is trash, but if I am going to do it, I would add some power, maybe a different rear axle gearing. Could do a centrifugal supercharger and no cowl. I think Skip Barber (Racing School) had manual-converted Crown Vics for driver training. Made me want one. A friend in Texas has a white ex-police interceptor with nudge bars, looks cool as gently caress. Edit: It was Bob Bondurant, and here is one of them: http://gatewayclassiccars.com/louisville/1999/ford/crown-(cobra)-victoria-S56.html 
Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 17:31
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It's a little late, but I replaced the intake manifold on my 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis at about 120,000 miles. I had an intermittent misfire on the back most passenger cylinder, which progressively got worse. I originally thought it was spark related, so I threw in a new plug, checked the wires, and tested the COP. I looked for coolant but couldn't find any. One morning, I parked the car at work and noticed the smell of coolant. When I got out of the car, I saw a small river of neon green running down the hill. When I checked, I noticed a small puddle near that rear passenger cylinder. I limped it to a nearby dealership, who determined that the plastic fitting near the cylinder cracked and puked the coolant out. They quoted me $1,200 for the repair, so I declined. I checked the local Advanced Auto who had the Dorman part in stock (that's how common this problem is), so I picked it up for $200 and had it swap out in 4 hours or so. It's not that bad of a job...what sucked a dick was that a bolt near the new metal crossover, on the underside of the manifold, was not tightened at the factory and caused a miss on the forward drivers side cylinder. So I had to take it out, and reinstall it...that time it only took 2 hours or so. No problems since!
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Jun 4, 2015 02:08
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Mooseykins posted:If it's Supercharged. If?
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Jun 4, 2015 05:55
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wolrah posted:The engine itself fits but there are clearance issues with other things in the engine bay, IIRC it was something mounted on the firewall that caused the biggest issue. I think it was one of those things where you could move things around and/or not hook up certain "optional" accessories like A/C and it would fit. Wasn't the Marauder a 32-valve? edit: yep. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 00:32
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Something in my rear suspension on my '11 LX is squeaking like a scared mouse when I hit even the smallest bumps. Even gradual dips in the road that make the body bounce a bit makes it squeak. It just started a few weeks ago. Any ideas? I got some red spray grease from work and am gonna hit the Watts link, the trailing arm bushings, and maybe around the spring perches. poo poo is goddamn annoying and makes me feel like I'm riding in a broke rear end hoopty.
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Jun 17, 2015 11:47
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djhaloeight posted:Something in my rear suspension on my '11 LX is squeaking like a scared mouse when I hit even the smallest bumps. Even gradual dips in the road that make the body bounce a bit makes it squeak. It just started a few weeks ago. Any ideas? I got some red spray grease from work and am gonna hit the Watts link, the trailing arm bushings, and maybe around the spring perches. poo poo is goddamn annoying and makes me feel like I'm riding in a broke rear end hoopty. I came in this thread to ask this exact question, except mine is an 04 LX Sport. I just got brand new brakes and rotors installed, and from googling around I guess the pads aren't hitting the rotors well? I'm not sure at all, I took it to my mechanic but he didn't hear anything (which is normally my luck when I hear odd noises then I take it in and disappears until I get my vehicle back).
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Jul 15, 2015 04:27
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Yinzer posted:I came in this thread to ask this exact question, except mine is an 04 LX Sport. I just got brand new brakes and rotors installed, and from googling around I guess the pads aren't hitting the rotors well? I'm not sure at all, I took it to my mechanic but he didn't hear anything (which is normally my luck when I hear odd noises then I take it in and disappears until I get my vehicle back). Same thing here on my p71 2009. I'm going to Ford's tomorrow PM. Will report back.
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Jul 20, 2015 04:13
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I need some thoughts on an issue with my 2006 P71, because I have no idea on what else to do. The issue is that my blower is not blowing any air period. Doesn't matter what combination of settings I use, it doesn't turn and blow air period. For a few weeks it was getting progressively weaker, such that if I set the blower speed to the highest setting, it would only be at something like the middle setting. Then, one day a puff of smoke came out of my two center vents in the dash, and no more airflow at all. My first thought was the switch inside the car, the knob that controls speed, because it was beat up and loose, I though the smoke was due to a short and it melting itself. I went and got a new switch for 13 bucks, changed it, and no improvement. I also inspected all the wiring I could see inside the dash, including behind the switch and behind the radio, and none of it looked burnt or damaged at all. The old switch itself also looked fine, no corrosion or obviously visible damage. Next, I thought about it and thought that the blower motor itself went out on me. That would explain the smoke from the vents, the motor went and the little bit of smoke was it's last gasp. I went and got a new motor, installed it, and no change, no airflow at all. At this point, I also just want to say that the blend door is fine, I can hear it moving ok, and that the temperature setting knob works fine too, as I can feel a change in temperature in the tiny bit of air that comes through just from driving down the road. My next thought was, ok, when the motor went, it took a fuse or relay with it. I checked all the fuses, none were bad, and I said screw it and for ten bucks bought a new relay and swapped it out. Still no change at all. Ok, so by process of elimination, I figured the only thing left must be the blower resistor, that is mounted on the firewall by the heater core. I didn't suspect this at first, because generally when they go, you still get the lowest and highest speed setting working, not a total shutdown. So, I went and got a new resistor, and changed it out. Nothing, no change, still no air flow at all. I also looked and inspected every inch of wire that I could see without ripping everything and the entire dashboard out. Everything appears fine. Checked every electrical connector, they all look fine, no corrosion, no melted or burned parts, nothing. At this point, I have no idea what the hell is wrong with it. As far as I know, I've replaced every part in the system virtually, and have no change. Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts? At this point I'm ready to just throw it at my mechanic and say please fix this.
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Jul 20, 2015 07:09
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I had similar issues with my 03 Marauder (although I did not have that frightening puff of smoke!). I was under the impression that all of our 2000s Panthers had a circuit-controlled blower control module and not a resistor. I know a guy who is handy with a soldering iron and he opened up my BCM and did magic electronics thingies to it and that fixed it for me. Mine is located in the engine bay, on the passenger's side firewall. I determined the BCM was the problem because after rapping on it with the butt of a screwdriver, my A/C would start blowing again. It was a pain in the rear end to remove heater hoses and angle the BCM out, but got it replaced in under 30 minutes of cussing. E: blarg I missed the sentence where you said you replaced it. Hmm. Thinking.
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Jul 20, 2015 14:22
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Start tracing power with a meter. Something somewhere is still burnt, and if you replaced all the assemblies in the circuit then it's the fuse (you did check that, right?) or a burnt wire. is power getting to the switch? Is it getting to the
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Jul 20, 2015 17:31
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djhaloeight posted:Something in my rear suspension on my '11 LX is squeaking like a scared mouse when I hit even the smallest bumps. Even gradual dips in the road that make the body bounce a bit makes it squeak. It just started a few weeks ago. Any ideas? I got some red spray grease from work and am gonna hit the Watts link, the trailing arm bushings, and maybe around the spring perches. poo poo is goddamn annoying and makes me feel like I'm riding in a broke rear end hoopty. geforce posted:Same thing here on my p71 2009. I'm going to Ford's tomorrow PM. Will report back.
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Jul 21, 2015 00:55
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Hey leica you have an LX Sport right? My buddy just got one an '04, but hes got a gap between the headlight and I think where the hood meets. Is there supposed to be a weather strip between that? They are OEM headlamps, but the old lady who used to own it ended up running it against a light pole so it looks off. And gently caress me. I'm missing that 6 inch piece of wheel well cover on the driver side that connects to the bumper. Bunch of poo poo gets in there. EDIT: WOW so your pics of replacing the air suspension, Jesus man how did you keep the exterior paint in such immaculate condition? I'm stunned. Yinzer fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 01:11
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Well, after breaking out my meter and doing some electrical back tracking, I fixed my problem. I found that I had power everywhere except at the plug that actually connects to the blower motor itself. Well, the motor I got was not Crown Victoria specific, and it came with a couple different wiring adapters to use. I used the right one, but the issue was that the sort of plastic shroud that makes up the body of the plug was a little bit too long. This was keeping the male contacts in the plug from making a connection with the female contacts on the motor. A few minutes with some snips to trim down the length of the plastic shroud and then ta-da, it works perfectly now. Figures it would be a stupid rear end little thing like that. Guess I should be happy it was a simple fix, and not like a melted wiring harness or something. Oh well, at least I know now that basically my entire blower system is brand new.
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Jul 21, 2015 20:24
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Yinzer posted:Please do! Seems like it is the horizontal control arms. Part #: 8W1Z-5500-A http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/crow...ol-arm&mobile=0 The bushings are almost gone and the arm is touching other metal areas. For now I just lubricated it because Ford Canada here wanted me to pay 180$ CAD each. WTF! I'll buy them from Tasca parts and when I replace them I'll report back.
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Jul 21, 2015 22:22
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themachine posted:Well, after breaking out my meter and doing some electrical back tracking, I fixed my problem.  Now you can handle pretty much any "what is this electrical horseshit?" problem aside from black box ECU voodoo. Tracing power/ground will answer like 90% of electrical problems. Good work.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:32
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Speaking of blower / air issues, i've got a slightly weird one. Have the fan speed set to highest, vent knob set to off. Twist the vent knob to dash vent, and I get what can best be described as a weird squeak / growl sound, and maybe the tiniest bit of air, then nothing. It seems to actually blow a slight amount of air if I start driving and do highway speeds, but otherwise, nada. Same thing no matter what I put it on, be it floor, defrost, max a/c, etc. Changing fan speed knob also doesn't help in the slightest. I'm guessing dead blower resistor? It used to do this intermittently a year or two ago, but whacking the firewall area with a bit of pipe would fix it.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:37
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T1g4h posted:Speaking of blower / air issues, i've got a slightly weird one. Have the fan speed set to highest, vent knob set to off. Twist the vent knob to dash vent, and I get what can best be described as a weird squeak / growl sound, and maybe the tiniest bit of air, then nothing. It seems to actually blow a slight amount of air if I start driving and do highway speeds, but otherwise, nada. Same thing no matter what I put it on, be it floor, defrost, max a/c, etc. Changing fan speed knob also doesn't help in the slightest. I'm guessing dead blower resistor? It used to do this intermittently a year or two ago, but whacking the firewall area with a bit of pipe would fix it. Sounds like the mechanism to control the vent door isn't opening properly. I know some Fords use vacuum to control vent doors, so there might be a crack in the hose.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:59
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E: or possibly that ^^^ Random guess: might be the EATC vacuum line O-rings. The rings are $5 for 100 and might be worth a shot.
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Jul 22, 2015 00:00
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If the blower is working but you're not getting any air out of the vents you could just do what my brother did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPMbdTpC9Tw
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Jul 22, 2015 00:27
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Just curious if any of you bought a Panther in order to keep it on the road as long as possible. An '04 CV with 61k miles on it, non-fleet use, non-interceptor, garaged, never seen snow, etc. In pretty nice condition.. I'd like to drive it for the rest of my life or however long the engine lasts. How many years do you think I can get out of it? I live in Pittsburgh BTW and I know the climate here may not be nice to the vehicle. Yinzer fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 02:47
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