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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Maybe try wash n wipe? Give it a thicker wash and while it's still wet wipe it off the top surfaces. I've used it for detail stuff before and had decent results, though nothing on the X-Wing scale.
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May 28, 2015 10:37
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berzerkmonkey posted:I did, but I don't expect much - traditionally, their email communication is pretty bad. Alright! Hope it goes well - They've been pretty helpful to me so far with painting help and so on.
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May 28, 2015 11:05
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Unzip and Attack posted:Would someone be willing to do a nice varnish/sealant effort post? The amount of information seems a bit overwhelming to someone who doesn't know jack about what works best in what situation. 5th post of the OP has this: VARNISHING Gloss varnishes: Pledge Floor Wax (previously Future), also known as Klear in the UK, makes for a good, cheap gloss varnish (it can dry to a satin finish however, depending on exactly what you have). One bottle from your grocery store will last you a lifetime of painting models. It can also be mixed with paint to make a wash and used as a thinner by cutting it 50/50 with water. Liquitex brand varnishes are also good. All of the paint brands like Badger, Citadel, Vallejo, etc., make their own varnishes and they all work well, however Citadel is the only one that has it available in spray cans. You can also use automotive clear lacquer. Many modelers swear by Testor’s Dullcote/Glosscote, too. To protect the paint, use gloss varnish when you're finished, which dries to a harder finish than matte finish. Let it dry for a day or two (if you're airbrushing it will be a thinner coat so will dry faster) and follow it up with a matte finish, which is more suitable for cloth, skin, armor, etc. Touch up with gloss on glass or other shiny surfaces, and satin on cloth areas like silk, etc. You can also use gloss varnish as a 'save point' between major steps of your painting project, such as after your base coat and before applying trim details. If you accidentally put paint in the wrong place, you can use cleaner to take the paint off while not worrying about your earlier painting. It's not a full effortpost but it's what I could whip up while doing the rest of the OP. You can brush on Pledge Floor Wax, just make sure to use brush soap to clean your brushes afterwards. Use thin coats and let it dry about half an hour between coats. I've never brushed it on but it's thin enough to spray through an airbrush so it's more than thin enough for brush painting. You can use a hair dryer to speed up the painting as long as you didn't put it on too thick (it'll collect in the deep parts of the model). You can also use Testor's Glosscote, but this has to be done outside because it stinks to high heaven. For the final varnish, Testor's Dullcote is what people have been using for ages and ages. You can find it outside the US but if you don't have a model or craft shop near you, you'll probably have to pay a premium to get it. But it's worth it. Dullcote smell to me is the smell of victory.
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May 28, 2015 12:36
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KFJ posted:Alright! Hope it goes well - They've been pretty helpful to me so far with painting help and so on.
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May 28, 2015 12:48
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My latest WiP - its supposed to be a replacement for the awful Dakini tacbot sculpts.
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May 28, 2015 13:23
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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up It looks like you've watered it to the point where the pigment has separated from the acrylic medium. You want to either use matte medium or pledge floor varnish to thin the paint (you will need to matte varnish after if you use pledge)
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May 28, 2015 16:47
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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Did you clean the mini first? It's possible the wash isn't sitting in the crevices because the crevices are already full of something oily or whatever. Most washes don't need to be watered down, by the by - but you do usually need to touch up the high spots afterwards to avoid them getting dingy.
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May 28, 2015 16:58
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You said you used a 50:50 Wash to Water ratio. If you have a 'wash' then it's already thinned enough and you're separating out the pigments as someone mentioned. I would take an old toothbrush with a little soap and scrub the model then try the wash without any additional thinning after it's dried. A lot of the Xwing painters I see always mention using Nuln Oil from GW and get results like this: http://warteacher.blogspot.com/2013/03/ffg-x-wing-ship-repaints-revenge-of.html
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May 28, 2015 18:53
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Thought I'd convert up a spare old beat-up rhino I had into a looted one, it was either that or terrain. Ork conversions are fun. WIP, of course. 
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May 28, 2015 23:51
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Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it.
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May 29, 2015 01:31
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ijyt posted:Thought I'd convert up a spare old beat-up rhino I had into a looted one, it was either that or terrain. proppa, but it needs a big zoggin gun on the top.
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May 29, 2015 01:56
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Under 15 posted:Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it.
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May 29, 2015 02:06
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IIRC Cote d'arms still make Goblin Green. Not sure if it's an exact match to the GW one of old though.
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May 29, 2015 10:20
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Indolent Bastard posted:proppa, but it needs a big zoggin gun on the top. A BZG 9000?
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May 29, 2015 10:40
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Try thinning it down less.
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May 29, 2015 14:56
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Zark the Damned posted:IIRC Cote d'arms still make Goblin Green. Not sure if it's an exact match to the GW one of old though. It should be a match to the original citadel paints.
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May 29, 2015 15:07
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Under 15 posted:Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it. Vallejo Model Colour Olive Green is also a decent substitute.
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May 29, 2015 16:04
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Under 15 posted:Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it. army painters goblin green is a really good match.
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May 29, 2015 17:42
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HardHead posted:army painters goblin green is a really good match. How is their Goblin Green? I have their Greenskin paint and it is so loving thin and lovely, it's actually alarming. I spray based my 2nd ed Cadians with it, and after a not-terribly-thick wash it was taking 2-3 coats to get it back up to a decent green. I'd say it's worse to work with than any of GW's yellows, but without the excuse of being yellow and therefore normally super thin.
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May 29, 2015 17:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach? It turns out I didn't throw them out! I found them and it's literally a picture of all the parts, then a picture of the fuselage in one piece as a sub assembly and then the wings glued onto it. They're really bad instructions.
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May 29, 2015 18:21
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SRM posted:How is their Goblin Green? I have their Greenskin paint and it is so loving thin and lovely, it's actually alarming. I spray based my 2nd ed Cadians with it, and after a not-terribly-thick wash it was taking 2-3 coats to get it back up to a decent green. I'd say it's worse to work with than any of GW's yellows, but without the excuse of being yellow and therefore normally super thin. I have no idea what they are doing to make their other greens so awful, but thankfully they aren't doing it to their GG . It's pretty much just GW goblin green in a bottle instead of a pot. it's not a 100% match but it's close. AP left GW right.Linked for table breakage. HardHead fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 18:24
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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Sorry, I can't tell much from the photo. However, washing is a dynamic process, closer to oil paints than acrylic paint because you have a much longer period of time before it sets. You can actually put undiluted wash into the model, observe the results and completely rinse it off in the sink before it dries. You can even add water to a washed model and shift the wash around. A medium sized brush can be used to both apply wash and suck it up: if you squeeze the bristles dry you can use that unloaded brush to vacuum up excess wash from problem areas. What little I can make out in the photo it does seem that your wash has too much water. The water will separate from the wash/ink and leave bare spots, making the model look "dirty" as you describe.
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May 29, 2015 19:14
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Im thinking about doing a conversion for this guy, and going mad max with some of my cavalry. Where could I find an appropriate motorbike/alternate mount? ideally as mad max as possible while still representing the same model. Maybe also some tire shoulderpads... w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 19:42 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 19:39
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Any UK goons got the scoop on some decent paintbrushes I can buy a bunch of for cheap? I seem to disintegrate Citadel brushes like nobodies business and for now like to keep things oldschool without airbrushes.
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May 29, 2015 20:33
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nopantsjack posted:Any UK goons got the scoop on some decent paintbrushes I can buy a bunch of for cheap? I seem to disintegrate Citadel brushes like nobodies business and for now like to keep things oldschool without airbrushes. Dunelm Mill has lots of cheap decent brushes in packs.
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May 29, 2015 22:07
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w00tmonger posted:Im thinking about doing a conversion for this guy, and going mad max with some of my cavalry. Where could I find an appropriate motorbike/alternate mount? ideally as mad max as possible while still representing the same model. My best guess would be an Ork War bike.
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May 30, 2015 03:16
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Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing.
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May 30, 2015 03:28
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Depending on what you are trying to do you can paint the part silver and use glazes to get back up to a nice blue.
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May 30, 2015 03:32
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LordAba posted:Depending on what you are trying to do you can paint the part silver and use glazes to get back up to a nice blue. I'm going to be painting a Stonehorn (big creature who's skeleton is turning into/already made of stone) which has a gigantic set of horns on its head. I wanted to make them a nice blue that pops (like metal ore instead of regular stone) but also shines like metal, as if the rider has been polishing them.
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May 30, 2015 03:36
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I finally picked up my brushes again after an extended haiatus, this time not painting 10m mechs but Reaper Bones for a Pathfinder campaign. This is my character, Paladin Darcassan Foxfire, Tea-leaf reading Crossbowelf of Golaron and all round lawful good guy.     It feels strange painting flesh and fabric again. But I think i've still got it. And it looks great on the table, not perfect up close but I'm not minding. Paints: Vallejo: Model Colour 70808 Blue Green 70865 Oily Steel Game Ink 72093 Skin Wash P3 Heartfire Cryx Bane Base Italeri Flat Red Flat White Flat Light Grey Flat Light Brown Citadel Snakebite Leather Tanned Flesh Chainmail Army Painter Strong Tone Dark Tone Testors Dullcote Lacquer Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (L) Grey Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 04:11 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 04:03
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Vallejo has a metallic medium, but I don't know how good it is. Alternatively you could get some aluminium powder and mix it into the paint. I have done it like that and it works pretty well.
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May 30, 2015 08:28
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Buy Vallejo Model Air Steel. Beautiful smooth pigment and strong metallic that mixes very nicely. It's the best medium for colored metallics I found (Vallejo metallic medium is poo poo) I made good metallic blues with it.
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May 30, 2015 10:00
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Either paint it silver and glaze it like LordAba said, or you can tint the metallic with the glazes before you paint it on.
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May 30, 2015 10:42
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Coat d arms is the answer for metallic blue. They do all the old coloured metallics that gw uses to do. It's the answer for everything on this page in fact.
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May 30, 2015 11:03
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Electric Hobo posted:Vallejo has a metallic medium, but I don't know how good it is. It mutes colors reaaaaaally badly.
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May 30, 2015 12:02
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Electric Hobo posted:Vallejo has a metallic medium, but I don't know how good it is. Alternatively you could get some aluminium powder and mix it into the paint. I have done it like that and it works pretty well. I've only experimented a little with the Metal Medium (  ) and it does what it's supposed to, but it lightens whatever colour you mix it with, which I guess makes sense.On the other hand Vallejo makes a Gunmetal Blue that is a dark blue metallic paint so maybe just go with that?
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May 30, 2015 13:55
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There are plenty of references to air brushes on the first page of this thread, yet it's a perennial inquiry here. Lots of helpful people have chimed in each time, should that info be added to the OP?
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May 30, 2015 14:24
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I have a 28mm standard bearer from the Perry Brothers, but I need a flag pole for him. Any recommendations for wire gauge or other ideas? I'm going to be going by a hardware store later today.
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May 30, 2015 14:38
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Thanks goons. I think I have some game air steel already, I'll give that a shot. 1:1 blue to steel?
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May 30, 2015 15:29
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w00tmonger posted:Im thinking about doing a conversion for this guy, and going mad max with some of my cavalry. Where could I find an appropriate motorbike/alternate mount? ideally as mad max as possible while still representing the same model. I picked these up at 90% off. I can send one to you. They are on , I think, 60mm bases in the pictures, so they should be plenty big. http://www.wildwestexodus.com/outlaw-blackjack-vehicle-set-3-models-light-support/
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May 30, 2015 16:07
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