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Are any of the premium stock car audio systems any good, like Bang & Olufsen? I have an aftermarket system right now that I'm happy with but man it would be nice to have good stock audio with my next car, instead of messing around with installs and component issues etc.
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May 11, 2015 05:13
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terre packet posted:Are any of the premium stock car audio systems any good, like Bang & Olufsen? I have an aftermarket system right now that I'm happy with but man it would be nice to have good stock audio with my next car, instead of messing around with installs and component issues etc. I've abused the top end B&O system in Audis as I used to work for B&O and yeah, it sounds loving fantastic, there's some amazing DSP work gone on in the system and it's constantly tweaking the audio on the fly. The speakers in there are just beautifully put together too, the acoustic lenses popping up from the dash are just the coolest detail, it's like theatre. But yeah if you get a chance to play with one then do so, it sounds so loving buttery smooth playing anything you like at any volume, it's a realllllllll nice setup... Also B&O approached Jaguar Land Rover as they wanted to build systems for them, JLR decided against it as they wanted to keep the car 'British' with their current Meridian partnership. If it wasn't for that one little detail they'd have B&O loaded in them already and Aston, BMW and AMGs have them as an option so it's all top notch brands.
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May 11, 2015 09:20
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Enourmo posted:My stereo has been acting odd lately. Occasionally, shortly after starting the car I'd hear a thumping noise, for about 30 seconds. I thought it was my ricer exhaust doing things, but turns out it's my subwoofer; the cone retracts slowly, then kicks down all at once, about 4-5 cycles per second. I don't remember the specifics but lots of people had trouble with the stereo in the Mazdaspeed, I think usually with the sub. Often when almost new. Consider yourself lucky to last this long I guess.
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May 12, 2015 12:56
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CharlesM posted:I don't remember the specifics but lots of people had trouble with the stereo in the Mazdaspeed, I think usually with the sub. Often when almost new. Consider yourself lucky to last this long I guess. Well I know for sure the factory head with its mechanized-flip faceplate was the source of a lot of headaches; I personally wore out 4 ribbon cables before the mechanism jammed and I just got a modern one. It sounds fine when music's playing, just does the thumping when there's no active input. Weird.
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May 13, 2015 03:37
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What are my best options for upgrading the factory Bose stereo in my '08 Maxima? I feel like it's missing a little midrange, and gets a little muddy at high volumes. Hoping to just upgrade speakers if possible. Would I need to get 2-ohm specific speakers for the Bose amp?
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May 30, 2015 12:54
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angryhampster posted:I feel like it's missing a little midrange, funny, that's the opposite of the normal Bose problem  4 ohm speakers would work but you would lose some output power. Are there car speakers out there (other than subs) that come in at 2 ohm? Last I knew that was the big limitation with factory Bose systems. Even if you DO find 2 ohm speakers I'd bet real money the Bose system is EQ'd to hell for the OE equipment and anything aftermarket is going to be even boomtiskier than stock. There are DSPs to correct that but at that point you may as well just replace the amp and have access to a much broader range of speakers.
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May 30, 2015 15:37
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Panty Saluter posted:funny, that's the opposite of the normal Bose problem The majority of the Infinity range comes in 2 ohm impedance. I like super crisp highs so I love them, but I know some people are more sensitive to 'shrill' highs and don't like them as much so make sure you spend some time in a Best Buy or whatever actually listening to them before you commit. I know it's very much apples to oranges, but when I replaced the front speakers in my Audi (2000 A6 with the mid-range stereo, there was the base, partial Bose, and full Bose available), I didn't really get that much of a benefit. It took a long time to really dial in the settings, and they could have probably improved more had I spent more than a couple weeks fiddling with it. I ended up gutting the rest of the stock stereo and going Pioneer HU, Rockford Fosgate Amp, and Infinity speakers. Left the stock rears because I don't really ever have a full car and gently caress em they can have lower quality sound. Bose systems seem to be tuned to replacing either the HU or amp or speakers doesn't really do THAT much because Bose is a package deal. It looks like that year Maxima isn't that hard to replace a Head Unit on, so maybe replace the speakers now and go full system somewhere down the line if you wanted to go ala carte with the stereo or if the rest of the stock stereo doesn't jive too well with the upgraded speakers.
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May 30, 2015 16:06
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intheflesh posted:The majority of the Infinity range comes in 2 ohm impedance. I like super crisp highs so I love them, but I know some people are more sensitive to 'shrill' highs and don't like them as much so make sure you spend some time in a Best Buy or whatever actually listening to them before you commit. And if you do like the way Infinity sounds, it's worth noting that Harman Audio has a killer outlet store on eBay that usually has a pretty decent selection of car speakers.
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May 30, 2015 17:16
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Molten Llama posted:And if you do like the way Infinity sounds, it's worth noting that Harman Audio has a killer outlet store on eBay that usually has a pretty decent selection of car speakers. I have some JLs that are too sizzly for me unless you put the tweeter at -3 dB. I'm guessing Infinity would not be to my tastes
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May 30, 2015 17:43
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Panty Saluter posted:funny, that's the opposite of the normal Bose problem So is it conceivable to replace the factory amp without running into all sorts of hosed up wiring?
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May 31, 2015 12:20
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Will you guys do a quick pick parts list if I post my needs? 1992 Chevy Silverado reg cab. 4 speakers, single din, would prefer a head unit that is not too deep, as the dash isn't deep, so a lot will stick of the plate. I'd like something ~$100 Aux in, serius radio compatible, good am radio reception. Thanks E- wow op is right, crutchfield is awesome and I just put all my filters in there and found exactly what I wanted. Kenwood kmm-bt312u. Any thoughts? always be closing fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 23:35
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Yeah I'm looking at this. This is okay , right? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWR910B/JVC-KW-R910BT.html JVC KW-R910BT
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Jun 5, 2015 05:36
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I'd like to upgrade from the OEM unit in my new-to-me truck: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, with the "autoset" AM/FM/Cassette double-DIN-sized headunit. I'm happy with the factory speakers and I don't have any complicating things to worry about such as steering-wheel controls; I've been reading Crutchfield's help files and I think I'll be happy with the factory amp. The current setup sounds fine and works well, but has no way to input from a separate device except through a crappy cassette adaptor thing I bought; it's getting tiresome to use my tablet for tunes when driving. When I was in Australia a few years ago I replaced the OEM unit in the 2001 Ford Falcon ute I had at the time, and it was a pretty simple process. I'm trying to remember the names of things, but the shopping list that time was: - Sony single-DIN headunit - Sony-to-universal standard (named ISO? maybe?) wiring - ISO-to-Ford wiring - Ford Focus dash kit (moulded plastic thing that accepted the single-DIN headunit and filled the weird Ford-oval-shaped space in the dash) plus those little U-shaped hook things needed to pull the factory Ford unit. Other than wanting a different brand - I wasn't really happy with the Sony, it had some annoying features - can I expect a similar shopping list this time around? Crutchfield is suggesting a slightly simpler setup, with just the dash kit and a single wiring adaptor from Metra (plus the U-shaped removal tools).
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Jun 16, 2015 05:03
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I'm trying to decide how to get digital music in my car. My entire glovebox and all my cubbyholes are taken up by CDs. The way I see it, there are three options. An inline FM modulator, a stock stereo with a tape deck and tape adapter, or a new, modern stereo. The stock stereo would be <=$50 and nobody would ever try to steal it. Going off this thread, a decent new stereo would be >=$100, right? I'm not sure what a good modulator would cost, I haven't looked into that option as much. I'm not very worried about it getting stolen, except when I go to Denver 1-2 times a year. I live in a decent, if low-income neighborhood, and most of my neighbors have nicer cars than me anyway.
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Jun 16, 2015 16:39
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Edit: Crossing my bad experiences Godholio fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 17:32
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Okay. Is there any reason to get a cheap aux-equipped stereo over the OEM stereo for my model? I have a stereo the PO put in right now, would that make it hard to go back? The speakers are all stock.
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Jun 16, 2015 17:54
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Godholio posted:Modulators generally suck. Are you possibly thinking of an FM transmitter? I've used modulators in the past and it's almost indistinguishable from an auxiliary line in as far as audio quality is concerned. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay. Is there any reason to get a cheap aux-equipped stereo over the OEM stereo for my model? I have a stereo the PO put in right now, would that make it hard to go back? The speakers are all stock. All but the cheapest head units come with Bluetooth, USB and/or line in as standard options now. If you would use any of those features I'd say it's worth the price difference. Difficulty going back to OEM will depend on how well the PO installed the current stereo - if he used harness adapters it should be as simple as unplugging the adapter and plugging in the OEM stereo. If not...well, if he spliced the head unit pigtail into the factory loom it won't be fun, and returning to OEM will require obtaining the factory harnesses to attach the OEM stereo.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:03
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Tamir Lenk posted:1975 Alfa Romeo Spider (S2a series) Quick update on this. To address some charging system issues, I' replaced the old 55-60 amp alternator with one that puts out 85 amps, so I have ample power to run some audio. Space is still a puzzle, but I should have room for 2 small (maybe 5") speakers one the sides just behind each door, and another 2 small (5") ones on either side of the center console near my feet. I don't plan to put in a shelf or otherwise mount anything in the fake "backseat" area. To feed those speakers, I think a simple amp that will take music from my phone will be fine, and I can stash that under the dash somewhere, to avoid any cutting of the stock layout. Any guidance on an amp or speakers that would work for this?
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Jun 16, 2015 18:23
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ExecuDork posted:I'd like to upgrade from the OEM unit in my new-to-me truck: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, with the "autoset" AM/FM/Cassette double-DIN-sized headunit. I'm happy with the factory speakers and I don't have any complicating things to worry about such as steering-wheel controls; I've been reading Crutchfield's help files and I think I'll be happy with the factory amp. The current setup sounds fine and works well, but has no way to input from a separate device except through a crappy cassette adaptor thing I bought; it's getting tiresome to use my tablet for tunes when driving. When I was in Australia a few years ago I replaced the OEM unit in the 2001 Ford Falcon ute I had at the time, and it was a pretty simple process. I'm trying to remember the names of things, but the shopping list that time was: Are you sure there's even a "factory amp"? I don't know that Rangers of that vintage had any high-end audio options that would have involved an amp outside of the head unit itself. You shouldn't need to buy the wiring harness for the head unit itself - it should come with a harness that plugs into the head unit and has bare wiring. The Metra wiring adapter will connect to the wiring included with the head unit so it's truly plug-and-play. At any rate, the hardest part by far on my '98 was getting the head unit out, and that was easy as hell.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are you sure there's even a "factory amp"? I don't know that Rangers of that vintage had any high-end audio options that would have involved an amp outside of the head unit itself. Crutchfield says the amp in my Ranger is behind the passenger-side rear speaker, and there's enough other details - how much space there is in the dash, characteristics of the factory speakers, etc. - that I believe them. EIther way, I'm not planning on any upgrades outside of the headunit, and I have no interest in blowing out my eardrums so truly enormous power is not necessary. I'm running on the assumption that even a basic-level aftermarket headunit from JVC or Sony or whoever is going to have enough power inside it for my needs. If I understand you correctly, the headunit alone will be capable of wiring into my truck, but the Metra adaptor will save me the trouble of matching up wires and properly connecting them. I have no experience of properly putting together wires in a vehicle, but I really like just plugging into sockets and then clicking everything into place. That was my experience in Australia, and I'm hoping to replicate that here in Canada. Crutchfield is great, but shipping to this isolated "summer house" in bumfuck Alberta is horribly slow, and for reasons of "ego" and "masochistic stupidity" I think I'll try to do everything in the Canadian Tire parking lot, maybe on Saturday. Worst-case, the minimum-wage counter monkey will get to laugh at me. I'm OK with brightening up some wretched retail drudge's day with my semi-competent flailings. I'm glad to hear your '98's swap was so easy.
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Jun 16, 2015 20:11
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Geoj posted:Are you possibly thinking of an FM transmitter? I've used modulators in the past and it's almost indistinguishable from an auxiliary line in as far as audio quality is concerned. I guess I'll take a look and see what the wiring looks like. Are aftermarket wiring setups manufacturer specific, model specific, or what? Bluetooth might be nice, I guess. I had it on a work van, though, and I almost had to yell to be heard. Is that going to be a problem with cheap aftermarket stereos too? Are there recommended models, or is it just brands to avoid?
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Jun 16, 2015 20:32
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Geoj posted:Are you possibly thinking of an FM transmitter? I've used modulators in the past and it's almost indistinguishable from an auxiliary line in as far as audio quality is concerned. Actually I was, but I had a modulator ONCE and it was also a piece of poo poo. I'll go back and edit though.
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Jun 16, 2015 22:46
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ExecuDork posted:If I understand you correctly, the headunit alone will be capable of wiring into my truck, but the Metra adaptor will save me the trouble of matching up wires and properly connecting them. I have no experience of properly putting together wires in a vehicle, but I really like just plugging into sockets and then clicking everything into place. That was my experience in Australia, and I'm hoping to replicate that here in Canada. Capable, yes, but you'd be hacking up the factory wiring to do so. The metra wiring harness and the one that come with the head unit just get connected together so it plugs in just like the factory one did.
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Jun 16, 2015 23:22
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Got it, thanks! That's perfect.
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Jun 17, 2015 01:38
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My front speakers blew (I think anyway, they crackle pretty bad) so I am looking to upgrade them. car: 01 Grand Prix gt sedan Listen to: Mostly Rap, some electronic and rock music as well. I currently have (actually got this stuff 6 years ago after recommendations in here for my 86 Dodge 600!) Head Unit: Kenwood KDC-MP2035 Amp: phoenix gold xenon x400.1 Sub: pioneer premier ts w1207d4 Front and rear speakers are stock. I'm looking to replace the front speakers and wanted to get some recommendations. Maybe the tweeters as well if you think I should. At most I can spend is $200 but hopefully I can keep it a ways under that. Also, sometimes when I am listening to music the amp will turn off and I'll have to turn my head unit off and on to get it to turn back on. Any ideas of what might be causing that? Harminoff fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 05:06
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I'm thinking about installing a head unit in my '03 Honda Civic. My main needs/wants are *the ability to stream music from my phone (bluetooth preferably) *quality of construction/usability, increased sound quality if possible (does a head unit even do this I have no idea), general non-shittiness/dependability *finally I plan on installing some subwoofers/speakers later on so compatibility with those, or knowledge on what I need to look out for w/r/t that. I'm asking if http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE143B/Alpine-CDE-143BT.html?tp=5684 would be good for those needs. Also open to recommendations, I really don't wanna spend more than $200 but I'm not opposed to doing so if there is some fantastic advantage. As a bonus question, how bad of an idea is it to install this myself if I have no experience in car audio?
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Jun 18, 2015 03:58
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Welp, I went to crappy tire and came out with a good-enough JVC head unit, the plastic bits to fit the hole in my Ranger's dash when I pull the OEM unit, and some wires to put together. I'll find out the details when I pull the factory unit - I seriously have way more wires than I need - but it's clear that I will need to connect some wires. Colour-to-colour is fine, but I'm going to need some wire connectors. 1. What kind of connectors do I need? 2. How big are the wires? They look kinda like 20ga but I'm not sure.
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Jun 20, 2015 02:10
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an skeleton posted:I'm thinking about installing a head unit in my '03 Honda Civic. This has an external mic that plugs into the aux port if that matters.
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Jun 20, 2015 10:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm trying to decide how to get digital music in my car. My entire glovebox and all my cubbyholes are taken up by CDs. The way I see it, there are three options. An inline FM modulator, a stock stereo with a tape deck and tape adapter, or a new, modern stereo. If you can give up CDs completely you can get a USB/AUX/Radio only head for way south of $100!
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Jun 20, 2015 16:19
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ExecuDork posted:Welp, I went to crappy tire and came out with a good-enough JVC head unit, the plastic bits to fit the hole in my Ranger's dash when I pull the OEM unit, and some wires to put together. I'll find out the details when I pull the factory unit - I seriously have way more wires than I need - but it's clear that I will need to connect some wires. Colour-to-colour is fine, but I'm going to need some wire connectors. Easiest way to do this job well is to get some automotive butt crimps. You'll want the small red ones for almost all of them, if not all of them. Grab a ratcheting crimper (Harbor Freight has a decent one) and go to town. You can technically crimp without a ratcheting crimper, but it is so much easier with one.
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Jun 20, 2015 17:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Easiest way to do this job well is to get some automotive butt crimps. You'll want the small red ones for almost all of them, if not all of them. Grab a ratcheting crimper (Harbor Freight has a decent one) and go to town. You can technically crimp without a ratcheting crimper, but it is so much easier with one. Thanks! I just called the nearest Home Hardware (small town  ) and she said they have everything I need. We'll see, but having struggled with some butt crimps and my Leatherman's pliers last month, I am eager to find a proper crimper.
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Jun 20, 2015 19:32
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RillAkBea posted:If you can give up CDs completely you can get a USB/AUX/Radio only head for way south of $100! I would be completely okay with that. It would be nice to have my glovebox back. My fiancee just inherited her grandmother's car (ZX2 with 34,000 miles) and it only has a tape deck. We bought a tape to aux adapter from Best Buy, and it's skipping. Are there any recommendations on those? I had or have in a box a tape adapter from maybe 10 years ago, and it worked perfectly, so I know it's not a problem with the technology.
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Jun 20, 2015 20:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I would be completely okay with that. It would be nice to have my glovebox back. Even with a good cassette adaptor, doing anything with your music is a pain in the rear end and probably illegal if your jurisdiction has a law about distracted driving. I had to mess with my tablet to do anything other than adjust the volume, which got tiresome very quickly. Are you completely OK with telling your fiance what to do with the music, all the drat time, every time you go anywhere? Just do what I did - swap the OEM tape deck for a proper aftermarket head unit. It's really really easy and not expensive. I bought the cheapest unit they had at Canadian Tire, a basic JVC that has AUX and USB inputs, plus plays CDs and has blahblahblah equalizer custom settings blahblahblah ($80). I also needed the plastic parts to fit the hole in the dash ($20), a wiring harness ($15), some butt-connectors ($8), and some tools like a wire cutter / stripper / crimper and the special U-shaped hooks that you need to remove some OEM Ford decks, like mine.  Ranger Stereo Swap 1 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrPutting together the wires with the butt connectors and the crimper was easy, just a little time consuming. It took me about 45 minutes to do all 14 connections.  Ranger Stereo Swap 2 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThis is what's waiting inside the dash when you pull the OEM unit from a 1997 Ford Ranger. The wiring harness I bought - for most Fords from the early 90's onwards - has four different ends, I need 2 of those but the way things are set up you don't need to know which when you're putting wires together. Just match colour to colour, it's trivially easy.  Ranger Stereo Swap 3 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrFinal result - it worked perfectly as soon as I turned it on. If you can borrow tools (wire crimper, whatever you need to remove the OEM deck) you can swap to something VASTLY better in about 1.5 hours for around $100; I spent around $40 on tools, but I know I'll use them again sooner or later. I spent a bit more because I wanted to do it TODAY, rather than wait for a shipment from Crutchfield. I'm in buttfuck-nowhere rural Alberta, Canada, so shipping is death both in time and cost (though to be fair, Crutchfield advertises free shipping). As an aside, the plastic dash-adaptor thing came with a second piece and some spacers and so forth because it's a kit for pretty much any Ford from the past 30 years. I still have the other dash-adaptor, it's for a bunch of mostly larger Ford vehicles, F150s and newer Expeditions and so forth. If anybody is interested, I'll post the full list of vehicles it's for and if anybody wants it I'll send it for the cost of shipping.
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Jun 21, 2015 00:37
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Well, from a quick google, Colorado defines distracted driving even as adjusting the radio, so I don't think putting in a new head would make it any less illegal. I had an FM transmitter years ago and I'd honestly say adjusting the mp3 player was easier than messing with the stereo. You can at least watch for a green light while you adjust the mp3 player. If you're loving with something on the stereo screen, from experience it takes just as long and you have to be looking down. I wasn't using a tablet, though. That sounds like a pain in the rear end. Also a tape adapter could be now while a new head would be a couple months from now. Apparently the Sony is supposed to be good, so unless I can find my old one, I'll probably just get that.
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Jun 21, 2015 03:11
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I'm probably going to be installing a head unit in my 2006 Nissan Altima (without the Bose system) and through Crutchfield I got recommended a package with: - Kenwood KDC-162U head unit - Metra 99-7419 Dash Kit - Metra 70-7550 wiring harness What do you guys think of the stereo? Aside from those things is there anything else I would need? Tools like wire crimpers maybe? Also, it says the wiring harness needs a ground; I know Crutchfield provides some instructions, will those cover that part? And are the instructions good overall?
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Jun 22, 2015 19:43
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mentholmoose posted:Aside from those things is there anything else I would need? Tools like wire crimpers maybe? As for the ground if it's part of the oem side harness then you don't need to do anything. If it's a separate wire you either follow it back to the screw and put the aftermarket head units ground wire in, or if it's inaccessible you can crimp the two together.
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Jun 23, 2015 07:16
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mentholmoose posted:I'm probably going to be installing a head unit in my 2006 Nissan Altima (without the Bose system) and through Crutchfield I got recommended a package with: Get a good wire cutter/stripper/crimper, it's a useful tool and it's not like it'll expire. Plus, buy more connectors (I used the pink ones for 18-22ga, seems to be standard) than you think you'll need. I don't know about Crutchfield's instructions, but the stuff that came with my JVC unit was good enough and every part came with a 1-800 number for 24/7 help, I think the manufacturers of this stuff REALLY want you to be satisfied with the process. A quick GIS suggests to me that your dash is pretty uncomplicated, you'll probably be able to pull the OEM unit out and put in your new replacement pretty easily. Nice clear rectangles, good job Nissan! (Ford, WTF with those stupid ovals everywhere?)
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Jun 23, 2015 18:02
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I put a KDC-162U in my sister's Focus a few months ago, only real complaint I had is the display isn't dimmable and since the characters are white it's a bit much at night. Esoteric complaints, can't customize display or button colors and I'd rather have the USB and line in ports in the back of the unit so you can squirrel cables or a thumb drive away behind the dash or in the glovebox. e: if you care about display color you might want to spend an extra $10 and get a KDC-HD262U. Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 18:27
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2014 Ford Focus ST with the upgraded Sony audio and MyFord Touch (irreplaceable). This guy says a simple speaker replacement using the existing amp does a lot to improve the sound. He used Infinity Primus speakers due to the form factor most easily fitting the housings in the car. Apparently the subwoofer in the back is a bit of a pain to swap out with anything, and to do it properly you'd probably need to put a new sub box back there which would limit hatch space. I don't really want to do that, the hatch area is small enough as it is. I'm not a wub-wub chaser. The guy seems reasonably knowledgeable (he has a Youtube Channel that I found when searching for audio advice for this car) and he opines that a simple speaker replacement would satisfy the majority of listeners. I am not an audiophile, I just want my music to be loud-ish and balanced so I can hear all the widdly-widdly bits in my garbage death metal without stuff breaking up or getting totally lost in road noise. I listen to my MP3 collection off a USB thumb drive plugged into my center console, or stream off Pandora and connect via BT from my phone. I also listen to SiriusXM occasionally but we all know that sounds like garbage no matter what the equipment. So I'm thinking about just replacing the speakers like he suggests and seeing if that satisfies me. I love metal and mostly listen to that or alternative/rock genres. He did a lot more with his setup here by adding an amp, a larger sub, and an audio control called an LC2i, the function of which I don't fully understand. However, he admitted this was overkill for many users and he apparently got a good deal on the parts which is what motivated him to do the additional work. I guess my questions are: Does the speaker replacement seem like a good way to go, and would you recommend anything additional or different? I understand I'll be compromising on bass due to my desire to keep the existing sub. Does that LC2i box do anything for the speakers off the stock amplifier that I would be interested in? Or is it purely for that subwoofer mod that I don't want to do?
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Jun 23, 2015 19:18
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mentholmoose posted:I'm probably going to be installing a head unit in my 2006 Nissan Altima (without the Bose system) and through Crutchfield I got recommended a package with: RillAkBea posted:As for the ground if it's part of the oem side harness then you don't need to do anything. If it's a separate wire you either follow it back to the screw and put the aftermarket head units ground wire in, or if it's inaccessible you can crimp the two together. The factory stereo gets its ground through the antenna connection - there's no ground wire at all in the car side of the harness. Crimp a small ring terminal onto the black wire from the stereo harness and find something metal to attach it to; at least on the 93-01 Altimas, the stereo screwed into the metal frame behind the dash (screws went through a plastic section, but ultimately into a metal frame), so I just attached it to one of those screws. No idea on the 2006, but it can attach to anything that goes into something metal that's attached to the chassis. If you can't find anything, remove the console around the shifter (which may have to be removed anyway to get to the stereo), and you'll be able to find something to attach it to there. The instructions should be excellent, and if you can't figure out how to ground it, just call Crutchfield, they can tell you where you should ground it (it'll be in the instructions anyway, as they're car model specific, but if you can't make sense of it, that's why they have phone support). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jun 24, 2015 |
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Jun 24, 2015 07:56
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