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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Wash/shades usually comes prediluted enough you can use it straight out the bottle. Watering it down 50/50 made it start the journey down to glaze. Remember what you did though, because that effect you got is glazing which is just "dirtying up" the model where you don't hide the color underneath. So try straight from the bottle/pot first. Brush it on thick but always keep the paint moving. The washes will not dry fast so you can go quite a distance and still be able to come back to pick up paint later to refill your dry brush. This video at the time mark shows shading, but pay attention to the arrow on the shoulder. Leaving a shade on the flat part of the arrow makes no sense and he could have, after putting it down, use his brush to pick it back up from the flat areas and then use it elsewhere. [video type="youtube" start="6m:32s"] Ke2UMbMPN9w[/video] I just imagine I am dragging the paint along the areas they are supposed to go. Then I pick up the paint in the wrong spots by brushing the top lightly to suck the topmost paints up and continue the march. Washes are very dynamic so you can go back to an area you just came from and fix it up and, as a bonus, you got more wash on your brush.
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May 30, 2015 20:43
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I know miniature painting is a lot different from the painting you might do for scale modelling, due to differences in size and viewing distance. I'm curious about potentially applying some of the techniques, such as zenithal priming, to scale models and gundam kits. Does zenithal priming, for instance, help still when the kits are at a larger scale?
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May 30, 2015 22:11
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I'd assume so, but I've yet to see it work effectively on 28mm stuff so 
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May 30, 2015 22:13
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I picked these up at 90% off. I can send one to you. They are on , I think, 60mm bases in the pictures, so they should be plenty big. Definitely interested if you want to sorry something out. Sent you a pm
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May 30, 2015 23:34
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everythingWasBees posted:I know miniature painting is a lot different from the painting you might do for scale modelling, due to differences in size and viewing distance. I'm curious about potentially applying some of the techniques, such as zenithal priming, to scale models and gundam kits. Does zenithal priming, for instance, help still when the kits are at a larger scale? Zenithal is frequently used on armor and military figurines. Though scale modellers would probably call it "pre-shading". Many aircraft modellers also pre-shade panel lines, joints between control surfaces the inside of intakes and so on.
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May 30, 2015 23:44
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Sauer posted:Zenithal is frequently used on armor and military figurines. Though scale modellers would probably call it "pre-shading". Many aircraft modellers also pre-shade panel lines, joints between control surfaces the inside of intakes and so on. I always thought preshading was a bit different than zenithal shading, being more of a quick underlying layer of shading and highlights rather than the top-down primer spray of zenithal priming.
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May 30, 2015 23:53
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w00tmonger posted:Definitely interested if you want to sorry something out. Sent you a pm Emails exchanged. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 01:49 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 00:55
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everythingWasBees posted:I know miniature painting is a lot different from the painting you might do for scale modelling, due to differences in size and viewing distance. I'm curious about potentially applying some of the techniques, such as zenithal priming, to scale models and gundam kits. Does zenithal priming, for instance, help still when the kits are at a larger scale? I wrote a thing about zenithal priming a while ago. You can still read it here, on my lovely blog. Zenithal is great, but for larger models it alone is not enough. You'll need to combine it with color modulation and preshading to get the best depth. Luckily, you can both zenithal prime and preshade in the same step. Just do what you normally would for the zenthial prime and then follow up with a preshade using your black primer. Or just use black paint. At that point it doesn't really matter.
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May 31, 2015 01:59
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Dirt Worshipper posted:I have a 28mm standard bearer from the Perry Brothers, but I need a flag pole for him. Any recommendations for wire gauge or other ideas? I'm going to be going by a hardware store later today. You have drill bits and a pin vice, right? Eyeballing my drill bits, 1/16th" to 5/64" seems about right.
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May 31, 2015 13:27
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Just knocked out some Star Wars Armada fighters, and I'm happy with the results and want to share. Ties are ties - just hit the fins with some black within the lines.  X-Wings and B-Wings, That red stripe is a paint, but a little goes a long way here. Make sure you wash them to give them that dirty rebel feel.  Now these buggers I'm proud of, look at those Y wings - most of that is a wash.
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May 31, 2015 14:34
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The Y-Wings are amazing, but the A-Wings seem way too clean. Do you still need to wash them?
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May 31, 2015 17:22
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Signal posted:The Y-Wings are amazing, but the A-Wings seem way too clean. Do you still need to wash them? A wings are too fast for space dirt.
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May 31, 2015 18:54
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I can give some examples if it's useful. Pre-shading is shading in dark paint edges of panels and recesses so when you air brush on semi translucent coats you can lighten the tone to the middle of panels and get a nice smooth gradient etc. Such as this  Leading to this:  Modulation is painting to get an exaggerated effect of light hitting the object from various angles and lightening smaller details to give contrast. Kind of like Zenith priming but a bit more. Such as this:  To this:  To this:  To this: 
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May 31, 2015 19:44
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big_g posted:I can give some examples if it's useful. This is incredibly helpful! I've never really liked how the pre-shading turns out on robots and such, which is mainly what I'm doing, but modulation looks like a really fun technique.
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May 31, 2015 20:40
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That's smooth as butter. All airbrush work?
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May 31, 2015 20:53
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Post 9-11 User posted:That's smooth as butter. All airbrush work? At that point all the modulation of the base coat and the cammo was airbrushed. I believe it's had an oil filter as well at that stage. Here's some finished shots which show how the modulation is toned down but still visible after all the after stages and weathering. It should look like the light source is coming diagonally down from the front.   
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May 31, 2015 21:00
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Oath thread xxxpost   I really wanted to focus in on female skin tones, because they've given me problems in the past. Guys are easy because you can just go full bore contrast and it'll look great. Girls require a more delicate touch so they don't look like body builders. Turned out a lot better than it has in the past.
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May 31, 2015 21:50
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Grey Hunter posted:Just knocked out some Star Wars Armada fighters, and I'm happy with the results and want to share. I just got the Armada core box, and knowing the size of those minis, they look fantastic.
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May 31, 2015 22:44
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That is some really subtle work on that lady. Really great. Are you going to paint up the whole Hobbit box set or was that Goblin Town stuff just something you had lying around?
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Jun 1, 2015 00:10
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jodai posted:That is some really subtle work on that lady. Really great. Thanks. I'm planning to paint all of the Goblin Town box at some point, not sure on the timeline. Probably before the end of the year.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:01
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The Tyranid paint bundle on the GW site is priced pretty low right now http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Tyranids-Paint-Bundle-Leviathan, 16 paints for the price of 1! Seems to be the same in the US too.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:07
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krushgroove posted:The Tyranid paint bundle on the GW site is priced pretty low right now http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Tyranids-Paint-Bundle-Leviathan, 16 paints for the price of 1! Just came to post that 
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Jun 1, 2015 19:13
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Blah, they already cratered the page.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:14
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krushgroove posted:Blah, they already cratered the page. Now let's see if they will honor the $5.00 paint buy
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Jun 1, 2015 19:15
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Hey all I'm thinking about getting back into painting space dollies, and have a somewhat weird question. I moved cities 9 months ago, and my old house mate was nice enough to let me leave all my hobby gear at his place where I more or less forgot about it. I'm flying back there in a few days, and will need to pack it all up and send it to myself. I was wondering if it'd be possible to box up some of it and put it on my return flight as checked luggage. Has anyone flown with paints (in this case the post 2012 GW) before? Is it doable, or are they all going to have pressure issues and blow up?
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Jun 2, 2015 04:38
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Yeast posted:Hey all Don't cheap out on the bottles, get highly flexible plastic with very tight fitting lids. 
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Jun 2, 2015 05:09
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Faaark. I wonder if taping each pot shut with electrical tape would do it. And then I'll pack them in small zip locks I guess. Thanks duder.
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Jun 2, 2015 06:06
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Yeast posted:Faaark. I have flown with all types of mini paints and have never had a problem. Skip taping each bottle - if they do leak, the electrical tape won't stop it. Put them in ziploc bags and you should be ok. If you want to be super safe, put the bag with paint into another bag and tape that one closed, just in case there are leaks. Again, I've never had a leak, but accidents happen, especially when you're dealing with sealed bottles of liquid in an unpressurized cargo hold.
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Jun 2, 2015 13:22
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I think this would be the place to ask, but what do people here use for model transport etc. I have a little army transport bag, but want to upgrade to hold more without breakign the bank. One of my problems at the moment is that my bag has pluck-foam which has heavily restricted any future expansion. I'm using it for Warmachine, and would ideally like it to fit enough for a 2 list 50 point tournament (this isn't a must though).
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Jun 2, 2015 15:43
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I prefer KR Multicase. The bags are nice and the modular box system is easy to use and store, when not using one set just replace the box with another set. http://www.krmulticase.com/
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Jun 2, 2015 15:46
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w00tmonger posted:I think this would be the place to ask, but what do people here use for model transport etc. I have a little army transport bag, but want to upgrade to hold more without breakign the bank. This is way back from page 5 of this thread but I've been using this method for a few months now and absolutely love it. nesbit37 posted:I finished painting and basing all of the armies for the battle of five armies last week. I'll put pictures up of them all once I finish the last 9 heroes for the set. Wanted to post now because an awesome storage solution arrived for me last week and I love it so far. It's using gem trays and gem transportation cases for miniatures, taken from this blog: http://belchedfromthedepths.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-quest-for-perfect-miniatures.html
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Jun 2, 2015 15:48
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nesbit37 posted:This is way back from page 5 of this thread but I've been using this method for a few months now and absolutely love it. Love the setup but its a bit overkill for what Im looking at. As far as KR goes, are there particular bags that are better than others etc? their site always seems a bit daunting
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Jun 2, 2015 15:57
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I love my KR backpack. It holds two KR cases which is enough to hold just about any army I want for an average sized game of 40k. It also holds my rulebooks, gaming paraphernalia, and a water bottle if I want.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:16
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w00tmonger posted:Love the setup but its a bit overkill for what Im looking at. Their site is awful but the product is great and I found their customer service fantastic. I got so confused by their site I ended up just emailing them and saying 'this is what I have, will it fit in X tray and X bag' and they got back to me right away to confirm that it would all work. I have their Kaiser 1 shoulder bag that holds one of their card case dealios; it has been super durable and holds everything I need to take two 50 point WM/H lists out to the FLGS.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:22
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To chime in about KR, I did not have a lot of money so I just bought a cardboard carrying case. It's been about a year of pretty heavy use since it was my only transportation method until about two months ago. It's a little frayed on the edges but still in decent shape. It can hold two completely separate lists for Warmachine(well, depending on what you're running...) or three or four fifty point Malifaux crews. The pluck foam is really great. If you opt to get a bag and a cardboard case, you should be set for quite some time. Alternatively, miniature market has begun selling Game Plus products. The basic bag is $34.99 and it holds 14.5 inches of foam. Each tray is $7.75. So it's pretty cheap in comparison and it seems decent but I have no personal experience.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:36
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evenworse username posted:Their site is awful but the product is great and I found their customer service fantastic. I got so confused by their site I ended up just emailing them and saying 'this is what I have, will it fit in X tray and X bag' and they got back to me right away to confirm that it would all work. So Kaiser 2 would be pretty reasonable? I wish I could find specs etc on here. Kaiser 3?
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Jun 2, 2015 16:38
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KR is a brilliant company, they've been helping out with the Oath Thread for years and Daryl the owner is super enthusiastic and really helpful. Over the past year or so they've had a 10-year anniversary sale and the new 1.5 height and double height boxes, both at 2-for-1 or similar ridiculous deals, and I've really stocked up. That said, yes, their web site could be more intuitive but if you have their print catalog (comes with every order, I think) it explains the letter codes and things a bit easier and there's pages on the site (in the tabs at top) that explain the tray coding. The owner of KR is an engineer by training so all the codes make sense if you're familiar with how engineers think (maybe). From memory: The tray thicknesses (they call them heights) are full height, 2/3, 1/2, 1/3 or 1/4, with full height being 70mm I believe. There are a ton of different opening sizes for you to fit models, from 25mm base size to 40mm base size (in 28mm scale terms), plus sizes geared towards 6mm historical, 15mm scale and all kinds. In general you can just find the GW army you have and use the tray selections as a guide, plus for most of the GW armies there are PDF guides you can look at. There's also loads of custom-cut trays you can get for most of the GW armies, X-wing, and more. The custom-cut trays are form-fitting so the models don't fit in simple rectangular boxes. Many of the GW armies have pre-made selections that will hold, for example, 3 Rhinos with turrets, 18 Terminators and I think 36 standard marines, so a good-size starter force depending on what you have. I have Maulerfiends in the spaces for the Rhinos, so anything Rhino-sized will fit fine (helps if it's magnetized). If you're getting the standard box layout trays, find the particular size you need, generally based on the thickness of the tray (for standard size space marines, rank and file 28mm scale you're probably getting a 1/4 thickness tray, for terminator size models you're looking at 1/3 thickness, for biker models the pick and pluck 1/2 thickness is a good size. Finally, the standard 'box' style trays are available in either full width (last letter T) or half width (last letter H).
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Jun 2, 2015 16:41
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jodai posted:Alternatively, miniature market has begun selling Game Plus products. The basic bag is $34.99 and it holds 14.5 inches of foam. Each tray is $7.75. So it's pretty cheap in comparison and it seems decent but I have no personal experience. The good news here is these are the same size as your Army Transport bag so you wouldn't need to invest in all new foam. Also Sabol is having a sale through June 14. You could pick up a second bag or one of their backpacks. I can usually fit two 50pt lists into my Army Transport bag, but I run a lot of small infantry. If you play Trolls or something larger I can see why that might not work.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:47
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w00tmonger posted:So Kaiser 2 would be pretty reasonable? I wish I could find specs etc on here. Depends how much you need to lug around. The Kaiser 2 holds 2 of their cardcase modules, the 3 will hold (wait for it) 3. I went for a relatively small case because at the time I was taking the bus to the FLGS and wanted something compact. Plus I don't really care about having my whole collection with me every time I go. How many card cases you need probably depends on the game you're buying the case for and how much of your army you want to transport at once. If you were playing WM/H I would guess (from how much fits into my case) you could fit the bulk of a good-sized collection into a Kaiser 3.
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Jun 2, 2015 17:30
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krushgroove posted:KR is a brilliant company, they've been helping out with the Oath Thread for years and Daryl the owner is super enthusiastic and really helpful. Over the past year or so they've had a 10-year anniversary sale and the new 1.5 height and double height boxes, both at 2-for-1 or similar ridiculous deals, and I've really stocked up. That website..... But yeah, I've spoken to him at a show when I picked up my backpack and he seems to be very into it - although he did confess to me he's not a gamer! He just likes to paint his models. - I ordered a Dropzone commander one that was supposed to carry 1 cardboard case - but they were out of them, so I got upgraded to a larger backpack that carries 2 for no extra cost!
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Jun 2, 2015 17:32
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