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Root Bear posted:I've been looking into a new soldering station and the Kendal 853D is by far one of the best ones I've come across for the money, if you're looking to go all out. Sorry to say, but that's a piece of garbage. You can pick up the exact same thing under about 6 other names on eBay for the same price and they're all bad. It's essentially a Harbor Freight quality station. How else do you think you can buy the features of a $500+ station for $140? Do some research before buying this thing. I have a friend who bought one and had ti last about a month before the thing wouldn't work anymore (like logic board failure....powered up, functions didn't work/unexpected results from dials and buttons) and I believe Viggen had one that lasted about a few hours before something went wrong with it and it was returned.
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May 24, 2015 23:47
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sharkytm posted:I'm partial to the Hakko FX888D. $99, and it's a great iron Every now and then Frys will put the FX888D on sale for $69. It's an insane deal and worth every penny. They just had it on sale last week actually, so it will probably be a few more months before it's on sale again.
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May 25, 2015 01:14
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mod sassinator posted:Every now and then Frys will put the FX888D on sale for $69. It's an insane deal and worth every penny. They just had it on sale last week actually, so it will probably be a few more months before it's on sale again. Quoting for awesomeness. I bought mine for $49.99 this christmas. Great iron. Now I just need to order a second.
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May 25, 2015 02:16
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So my aluminum harbor freight jack blew a seal and leaked its oil all over my garage. I've been thinking about one of their steel low profile ones. Any other jacks I should look at? Low profile is really important, the old jack was a little too tall and I had to drive my m3 on 2x4s to jack its front.
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May 26, 2015 23:42
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Sadi posted:So my aluminum harbor freight jack blew a seal and leaked its oil all over my garage. I've been thinking about one of their steel low profile ones. Any other jacks I should look at? Low profile is really important, the old jack was a little too tall and I had to drive my m3 on 2x4s to jack its front. If that happened to me I'd be shopping for a jack somewhere else.
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May 26, 2015 23:48
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Sadi posted:So my aluminum harbor freight jack blew a seal and leaked its oil all over my garage. I've been thinking about one of their steel low profile ones. Any other jacks I should look at? Low profile is really important, the old jack was a little too tall and I had to drive my m3 on 2x4s to jack its front. Arcan from Northern Tool or Costco. I think they make both steel and ally versions, low entry (80mm) and great reliable jacks for a low price. And friend and i both have them, in daily use in workshops for years without a single issue.
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May 26, 2015 23:52
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Sadi posted:So my aluminum harbor freight jack blew a seal and leaked its oil all over my garage. I've been thinking about one of their steel low profile ones. Any other jacks I should look at? Low profile is really important, the old jack was a little too tall and I had to drive my m3 on 2x4s to jack its front. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/25-ton-low-profile-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68049.html I've got this one, works great for lowered cars in my experience. I use it a ton as a shadetree mechanic, and it hasn't given me any problems in the last 3-4 years. They have a longer reach one as well if you've got to get way under a car to get a jack point. I feel like the aluminum jacks seem to have a higher failure rate than the steel ones, for whatever reason.
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May 27, 2015 04:04
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PitViper posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/25-ton-low-profile-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68049.html I have this one too. Be aware that it weighs about as much as it can lift and needs a clear path to roll to where it will be used. Also does not fit under a miata front end w/o 2x4s under the front tires.
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May 27, 2015 06:00
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I have that jack too, works really well for me and even fits under my e30 318iS horrible, low hanging oil pan.
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May 27, 2015 16:43
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So I have been looking for long shank torx sockets. Specifically the t60. These are the least TEXAS$ set. I need the long ones to make a 3 hour bearing job into an hour removed and installed. Does anyone have experience with this manufacturer of tools? Or does anyone know of a similar set that they use and would recommend.
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May 28, 2015 01:08
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SouthsideSaint posted:So I have been looking for long shank torx sockets. Specifically the t60. These are the least TEXAS$ set. I need the long ones to make a 3 hour bearing job into an hour removed and installed. Does anyone have experience with this manufacturer of tools? Or does anyone know of a similar set that they use and would recommend. $35 shipping? Yikes.
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May 28, 2015 01:53
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SouthsideSaint posted:So I have been looking for long shank torx sockets. Specifically the t60. These are the least TEXAS$ set. I need the long ones to make a 3 hour bearing job into an hour removed and installed. Does anyone have experience with this manufacturer of tools? Or does anyone know of a similar set that they use and would recommend. Bergen? Cheap nasty brittle poo poo. If you need a T60 get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stahlwille-Torx-Bit-Socket-1-2in-Dr-Xtra-Long-T60-/290764745346?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43b2edea82 Stahlwille are top quality functional German tools. Strong as gently caress.
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May 28, 2015 02:01
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^ thanks that's way cheaper then Strap-on or Crapco. I will defenitley be buying that . Because gently caress having to take apart a whole rear suspension for a wheel bearing.
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May 28, 2015 21:43
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How skinny and how long do they need to be? 10mm hexagonal long and short torx bits aren't all that uncommon, maybe pair that up with some 3/8" stuff? Fake edit: hmm, maybe they are in the US?
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May 29, 2015 12:31
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They're available, but T60 would be pretty huge for even a fat hex bit. That's like seatbelt size.
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May 29, 2015 17:52
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Jack chat, amazon has prime shipping for one arcan brand jack, so if you have a free month or a subscription that means free shipping.
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May 29, 2015 18:30
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Cleaned the garage today. Got a drill press from an auction for $75  Got a new digital torque wrench, which I am really digging so far.  And organized my sockets. The worst thing about these drat trays is I realize how many sockets I "need".  EDIT: Oh and this little guy followed me home. He hasnt been very helpful around the garage though. 
Sadi fucked around with this message at 23:30 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 23:24
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Sadi posted:
You should up your swivel game too!
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May 30, 2015 23:28
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e: Moved to more appropriate thread
slidebite fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 00:34
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slidebite posted:Not really sure where to put this question, but I would really like a second opinion and thought I'd do it here since it sort of tool related (yeah, sorta). The pics make the sidewall look slightly bulged, is it? You'd need the tire to be removed and inspected, as that's right on the gray area. When i was a tyre fitter we'd generally advise against repairing that if the hole on the inside was too bad, however it looks angled. You may be able to have it fixed with either a mushroom plug or a flat patch. The issue we used to encounter with punctures like that was that the plugs didn't want to adhere properly to the curve on the inside of the shoulder, especially with low-profile tyres. Best to take it to a good trusted tyre shop and have them remove it and inspect. It should be repairable with a mushroom plug, which i always found to be the best puncture repair.
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Jun 1, 2015 00:40
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Some tire shops, and tirerack.com offer shaving services. For a fee they will take a new tire and grind off tread until it matches your current tires. You're paying full price for less mileage out of a single tire, but it's cheaper than 4 new tires. Also, the reason sidewall plugs are a nono is 50/50 liability/science. If you pay me to patch that tire, and you get a blowout, do a rollover, and manage to take out a kindergarten class on the way, I'm responsible. I've seen quite a few idiots running around with DIY patches in their sidewalls, and they and their shitmobiles managed to luck out until they scraped up enough to buy new treads.
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Jun 1, 2015 00:47
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Posting in the stupid question thread Thanks Mooseykinds
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Jun 1, 2015 00:47
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MRC48B posted:Some tire shops, and tirerack.com offer shaving services. For a fee they will take a new tire and grind off tread until it matches your current tires. You're paying full price for less mileage out of a single tire, but it's cheaper than 4 new tires. Also, sidewall ply damage poses a much greater risk of blowout, as they're much thinner, and one damaged thread can compromise the structure's integrity. One damaged thread there, and under load the gap can increase and split more threads either side. Not always the case, but a risk, and as you said, the person who did the repair is held liable. The only time i've repaired a sidewall was on a colleage's brand new tyre, that another colleague decided to stab with a pick. It was a very small hole, on a tyre that'd done about 50 miles, and was repaired with a flat patch so it would hold air. A couple weeks later he ran a red light and was t-boned by a drunk Polski in a Passat and the car was totally demolished. slidebite posted:Thanks Mooseykinds No worries. 
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Jun 1, 2015 00:55
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The only problem is that pretty much every single place that fixes flats considers the entire outer tread block as part of the sidewall and won't fix anything in that region. Naturally this is where all my punctures are.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:19
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Sadi posted:EDIT: Oh and this little guy followed me home. He hasnt been very helpful around the garage though. I think your catte is defective. Even looks weird.
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Jun 1, 2015 03:42
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I only ever buy cheap tires from Canadian Tire so I don't know if anywhere else does this, but when I got them for my Subaru they came with a warranty where they'll fix any punctures for free, for like 7 years (or some amount of km that I don't remember offhand), and if it's sidewall damage then they'd replace the tire and I would pay an amount prorated based on the % of tread left. I don't normally buy extended warranties but what sold it was the fact that since it's AWD and requires all tires be the same diameter (and therefore a single new tire doesn't do me any good), then in the event they were unable to repair one tire, they would replace all four under warranty, again with me paying only the difference in tread life. If you do wind up having to buy all new tires, maybe shop around for a place that offers that kind of warranty. It was only like $20 to add it, too.
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Jun 1, 2015 05:58
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Splizwarf posted:They're available, but T60 would be pretty huge for even a fat hex bit. That's like seatbelt size. They seem to be the biggest size in most of the kits available here, but still fits a 10mm hex long/short bit.
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Jun 1, 2015 07:34
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Dumb or ingenius way to clean injectors? https://youtu.be/rUUgR94drxg
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Jun 4, 2015 20:45
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Went ahead and bought this pressure washer from Costco. It was only $150 and it has the Costco warranty, so when it breaks I'll take it back.
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Jun 4, 2015 20:54
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Dumb or ingenius way to clean injectors? His little straw adapter is a bit janky, but I like it!
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Jun 4, 2015 21:59
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Dumb or ingenius way to clean injectors? I did something similar with a 9v battery/junkyard pigtail/kitchen syringe/bit of plastic tubing. I was cleaning/refurbing a set of junkyard injectors and it worked great.
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Jun 5, 2015 02:00
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fknlo posted:Went ahead and bought this pressure washer from Costco. It was only $150 and it has the Costco warranty, so when it breaks I'll take it back. Is there such thing as a hot-water home use pressure washer? Or would it need such a big heat source it can't be done?
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Jun 5, 2015 04:50
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slidebite posted:Is there such thing as a hot-water home use pressure washer? Or would it need such a big heat source it can't be done? Hook up your hose to a tankless water heater. Unless you mean "just under boiling" hot water pressure washer.
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Jun 5, 2015 05:32
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slidebite posted:Is there such thing as a hot-water home use pressure washer? Or would it need such a big heat source it can't be done? They're not common, but sometimes there are cheapish Hotsy knockoffs at HD or TSC, etc. They're everywhere in the professional world though. Usually electric pumps and kerosene for the burners until you get into the big stationary units or the bigass portables. They're the tits.
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Jun 5, 2015 06:51
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Geoj posted:Hook up your hose to a tankless water heater. Or the drain on a regular water heater. Just make sure you flush any sediment out first. Also, make sure both hoses are rated for hot water. Even then the seals in the pump may not like the temperature. You might want to try this with someone else's pressure washer first.
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Jun 5, 2015 07:50
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or just strap an oxy-acetylene torch to the end of the wash gun and heat the water as it leaves the gun. Then when you're not washing stuff you can hook it up to a jerry can and flammenwerfer some nazis
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Jun 5, 2015 12:34
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I did something similar with a 9v battery/junkyard pigtail/kitchen syringe/bit of plastic tubing. I was cleaning/refurbing a set of junkyard injectors and it worked great. The only thing that I think would with better is an ultrasonic bath with solvent in it, but I happen to have one anyway for gun stuff.
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Jun 5, 2015 23:21
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Got myself a new toolbox at work. Before this I was working out of a Mac Tech1000 that I bought on craigslist for $1500. Went from this  To this  Mac guy sold me this for $5000 and gave me $2500 for my Tech1000 and $100 tool credit. So in the end I paid $3900 for this huge box with hutch which retails for close to $13k because it was 4 months old with a few scratches on it.
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Jun 6, 2015 01:38
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Brain Issues posted:To this
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Jun 6, 2015 02:11
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PBCrunch posted:The highlight of that toolbox is definitely the chrome rimzzz. Congrats. I think it's "Macsimizer".
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Jun 6, 2015 02:25
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