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Lanz posted:any suggestiosn on getthing the safety nubs off the Turn A HGCC's mustache? Slowly snip off a big chunk of a nub (instead of one quick snap, chew into it a bunch so you can be certain what's getting cut off), then whittle the rest away with a knife. Sand with some sandpaper, and you should be good.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:39
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BlitzBlast posted:Slowly snip off a big chunk of a nub (instead of one quick snap, chew into it a bunch so you can be certain what's getting cut off), then whittle the rest away with a knife. Sand with some sandpaper, and you should be good. thanks  I've never done it before, so it's a little nervewracking I might want to wait till I can get a better knife; think the hobby knife set I have right now is old as hell and kind of dull
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Jun 1, 2015 02:59
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Lanz posted:thanks do you have a pair of nippers?
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Jun 1, 2015 03:10
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What do you guys consider the minimum amount of time to wait for Tamiya paint to dry before putting tape over it to lay down another color?
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Jun 1, 2015 03:16
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Monaghan posted:do you have a pair of nippers? sorta; closest I have was this set of snips that I think were intended for wire cutting and not specifically plastic modeling:  EDIT: Beyond that, was using a pair of nail clips to trim off gate nubs
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Jun 1, 2015 03:59
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Lanz posted:sorta; closest I have was this set of snips that I think were intended for wire cutting and not specifically plastic modeling: good toolkit
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Jun 1, 2015 04:09
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What people aren't saying is "please, for the love of God, spend 20 bucks at Amazon or a hobby store" http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I...CuxL&ref=plSrch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V...ZPOL&ref=plSrch
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Jun 1, 2015 04:28
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Cat Hatter posted:What do you guys consider the minimum amount of time to wait for Tamiya paint to dry before putting tape over it to lay down another color? At least 24 hours, but to be safe I'd give it 48. Lanz posted:sorta; closest I have was this set of snips that I think were intended for wire cutting and not specifically plastic modeling: nippers like the one's mentioned above our a great investment. They last forever and it'll make building gunpla much easier and much more enjoyable.
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Jun 1, 2015 05:08
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TheManSeries posted:So hey guys I'm trying to find replacements for parts one of my kits didn't have. I'd just get me a stainless-steel rod of appropriate diameter and cut it to fit. Both of those shops should carry some. peeNamaste posted:I'm having a hard time getting my plaplate lines straight. I traced the design onto the plate, and cut it with an exacto. It looked pretty close, but when I went to sand the edges, it got all wonky. First off, scribe-and-pop does work well but your scribed line needs to run along the complete length of the stock you're working on in order to break cleanly. Scribing a shape and then trying to pop the whole thing out is not a thing that will work: you need to scribe and break each side of the shape sequentially until you've got it free. Needless to say, this doesn't work for curved cuts. You'll also want to plan and pre-cut your stock to minimize waste while still giving you enough leverage to break the pieces off. If your "waste" side is too small to get a grip on, needlenose pliers will usually do the trick. This method will give you nice straight cuts but the edge will still not be perfectly clean: you are breaking the plastic, after all. Try placing the sandpaper (wet, of course) on a flat surface and gently running the edges of the part along it until they're smooth. If you have more than one part of the same shape you can do them all at once. It shouldn't take much to clean them up. Another thing I'd recommend is to make your own sanding boards by CA gluing sandpaper to pla plate and cutting to fit. This works for the above method and for all kinds of other uses as well, particularly anytime you're trying to get a nice, flat surface on something. And as already mentioned, a small metal ruler is a must, and a specialty tool such as a plexiglas cutter is handy to have too. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 06:56
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Bimmi posted:I'd just get me a stainless-steel rod of appropriate diameter and cut it to fit. Both of those shops should carry some. What tool would I need to cut it or would they do that there.
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Jun 1, 2015 15:05
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Standard wire cutter should work for thin rod. Some needlenose pliers also have a cutting blade built in.
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Jun 1, 2015 15:15
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So a while ago I was agonizing over buying an HY2M Dom, and I pulled the trigger on it. I've been documenting the process seeing as there's no real English-language resource. I'm turning the normal Dom into Char Custom metallic colors. Day 1: how does wiring work i am not good at electronic, also THIS FUCKER IS BIG http://imgur.com/a/dCKbm Day 2: hurr batteries how am do, also prepping purple parts http://imgur.com/a/gR6OU Day 3: priming prepped purple parts pretty promptly, also LET THERE BE LIGHT http://imgur.com/a/SH0oD Days 4-6: SHINY RED poo poo, also HOLY poo poo THIS SHINY RED poo poo ACTUALLY TURNED OUT BETTER http://imgur.com/a/MhpXb
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Jun 1, 2015 16:58
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That's a gorgeous red.
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Jun 1, 2015 17:46
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MJP posted:So a while ago I was agonizing over buying an HY2M Dom, and I pulled the trigger on it. I've been documenting the process seeing as there's no real English-language resource. I'm turning the normal Dom into Char Custom metallic colors. huh I've used alclad chrome and tamiya clear red, but the red came out much darker than yours. I have to pick up some vallejo paints sometimes it's a very nice shade of red. (hopefully they sell them around here).
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Jun 1, 2015 17:58
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AstraLunaSol posted:Thanks for the tips, Gaia may take ages to get here, alclad seems to be more obtainable, may try that out. Alclad Pale Gold is quite nice. It looks like actual gold metal, less like GOLD SHINY BLING. It's not Hyaku Shiki gold, it's Rolex gold. I used it extensively to turn the spotty yellow of my R-Gyagya into something hugely loving awesome: http://imgur.com/a/ijQ4x You don't even need to do gloss black under it, just prime. EthanSteele posted:That's a gorgeous red. Thanks! I'm honestly still stunned at how perfect of a Char red it dried into. It completely and totally became better from when it was just painted on and wet, which I would have been OK with since it looked like automotive red, and turned into "this is steel that was smelted with red coloring" red. It's not as super duper shiny as the one video on Youtube of candy effects with Gunpla was when they did a blue Unicorn, I think, but it's really awesome. I just wish they made a clear Qubeley Papillon teal.
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Jun 1, 2015 18:02
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Monaghan posted:huh I've used alclad chrome and tamiya clear red, but the red came out much darker than yours. I have to pick up some vallejo paints sometimes it's a very nice shade of red. (hopefully they sell them around here). I go deep into detail in the album as to what steps I took, but the red required building up to get right. To be honest, your best bet: start with two light coats, let it dry about 5-10 mins, then build up further as needed. That's what worked out for me. Vallejo is plentiful online, or I can get it at my LHS for $3/bottle and you can just pay me shipping. I can put it into very small boxes with only stamps and no insurance to save a lot of dollars but TBH, I switched from Tamiya to Vallejo and have not looked back. Easier and faster to shake, smaller footprint for storage, TONS more colors, easier to dispense, mixes wonderfully smooth... no point in not going Vallejo, doubly so if you plan to airbrush. Dispense into a dropper bottle (cheap on Aliexpress), add thinner until done, shake, boom, done.
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Jun 1, 2015 18:45
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Whoa, Unicorn Z'Gok is so cool looking.
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Jun 1, 2015 20:58
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MJP posted:So a while ago I was agonizing over buying an HY2M Dom, and I pulled the trigger on it. I've been documenting the process seeing as there's no real English-language resource. I'm turning the normal Dom into Char Custom metallic colors. Nice work. You're a brave man to tackle that thing, it can't really be called "worth it" from a cost perspective but there's no doubt it will be an impressive and rare display piece. Looking forward to the finished product.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:00
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Bandais' June schedule is out: https://translate.google.com/transl...t-text=&act=url - Several of the MG SEED and Wing suits made in the 2010s are getting reprints. - HUGE Eva reprint session, including the PG Eva Unit 1. - HG Blue Destiny Units are getting reprints. - For the 1/100 new releases, the RE/100 Dijeh comes out on the 18th, while the MG MG Gundam Fenice Rinascita comes out on the 25th. - Tryon 3 is coming out on the 4th.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:38
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Maybe I'll finally be able to lay my hands on a HG Eva 01.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:50
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MJP posted:Alclad Pale Gold is quite nice. It looks like actual gold metal, less like GOLD SHINY BLING. It's not Hyaku Shiki gold, it's Rolex gold. I used it extensively to turn the spotty yellow of my R-Gyagya into something hugely loving awesome: http://imgur.com/a/ijQ4x Well it looks like I know what I'm buying the next time I go to a hobby store, that gold looks amazing.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:53
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closeted republican posted:PG Eva Unit 1. Hooray they're reprinting this awful, awful kit. This loving kit along with the pg wing zero turned me off perfect grades for nearly a decade.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:59
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Monaghan posted:Hooray they're reprinting this awful, awful kit. Is it really that bad? I kinda want to build a giant Eva.
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Jun 1, 2015 22:04
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closeted republican posted:- Tryon 3 is coming out on the 4th. I've got two of them on pre-order. Everyone else should follow suit, including you guys who want 2.0 ZZ Gundam. 
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Jun 1, 2015 22:05
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TaurusOxford posted:I've got two of them on pre-order. Everyone else should follow suit, including you guys who want 2.0 ZZ Gundam. I'll buy ten. ...Of the web exclusive ZZZ variant they've gotta be doing. I don't want to break out the plaplate.
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Jun 1, 2015 22:08
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i may have more than 2 preordered, which i'm taking as my first sign of unhealthy indulgence in the hobby
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Jun 1, 2015 22:08
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YamataNoOrochi posted:Is it really that bad? I kinda want to build a giant Eva. It's got this awful rubber poo poo they use for the black parts on the body. It's prone to tearing, I had to use baby power for it to fit right.. There's also some nasty seam lines. It also has very little articulation, which is kind of a problem inherent with the eva's design. It pains me to say this because I love eva unit 1 and I would also like a good giant kit of it. t TaurusOxford posted:I've got two of them on pre-order. Everyone else should follow suit, including you guys who want 2.0 ZZ Gundam. The ZZ is ugly as gently caress, but the tryon rules. I'll buy it once I knock down my backlog.
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Jun 1, 2015 22:14
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Tallgeese reprint!, I'll be able to put together my Duel in Antarctica set.
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Jun 1, 2015 22:59
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Going to look at that Alclad stuff, also got interested in using nail varnish, has anyone got experience of that? So far it looks like you just treat it as lacquer paint. Definitely want to get an R-Gyagyan looking like that.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:37
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Speaking of metallics, any tips for painting metallic blue without an airbrush (because I don't have one)? I just got a Dahack (because apparently blue mobile suits with two shields is my fetish), and I really want to paint it metallic blue - and maybe even a pearl white for, well the white parts. Any special techniques? Or just pick up Tamiya dark blue metallic (I think it's like TS-53)?
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Jun 2, 2015 01:10
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YamataNoOrochi posted:Is it really that bad? I kinda want to build a giant Eva. It's absolutely awful. The articulation and skeleton design is basically scaled-up HGUC, maybe first generation MG in areas. Many sections don't have any skeleton, like the ankle snaps right into the calf outside, which snaps onto the knee, with nothing inside. There are 7 black rubber bodysuit pieces, which very tightly fit over some sections, and you have to cut the suit to be able to pass pegs through to attach the overlaying armor. You can easily tear the bodysuit trying to get pieces into it, and you can break pieces trying to force them into the bodysuit. It may stretch too far in places and holes might be visible beyond the armor piece. It has terrible balance and combined with the poor articulation and the bodysuit, you'll struggle to get it into any decent poses. You can barely even open up the Eva's mouth. It's extremely top-heavy. Armor blocks a lot of articulation, particularly in the ankles. The hands are immobile and don't have pegs. You have to glue the hand halves together already gripping a weapon. You get several pairs, though. The shoulder weapon containers don't work very well. The wiring is easy, but only offers external power. It should not be reprinted--the molds should be destroyed and the entire thing redesigned using something along the lines of a redesigned PG Strike skeleton.
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Jun 2, 2015 04:20
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Are the HG Eva's any good?
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Jun 2, 2015 04:32
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Are the HG Eva's any good? I've never built one, but I imagine they'd be better than the PG since they're less ambitious, so they don't have to make compromises. The Limited Model High Grade kits from 1997 are the same era as the PG kit, which predates HGUC by 2 years. So, I wouldn't expect much compared to modern HGUC kits. It looks like they've done new kits entirely for the Rebuild of Evangelion, and from pics on HLJ, they look pretty good, thanks to 15+ years of model design evolution. Reprinting a lovely 18-year-old kit is just a terrible idea.
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Jun 2, 2015 05:26
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Are the HG Eva's any good? They're actually pretty okay. Lots of seam lines but definitely higher quality than Gundam HGs of the time. Pretty good flexibility since there's not much of anything to impede it. Worst thing about them are the unsandable/unpaintable rubber arms with too-skinny frames inside that really like to break and are a bitch to fix. Kind of expensive for what it is but probably worth picking up if you like the design.
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Jun 2, 2015 05:55
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Just ordered my first ever HG kit. I couldn't resist the charms of the Zogok, despite my monomaniacal fixation on having everything be the same scale.
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Jun 2, 2015 07:37
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So, sprue cutter question: I recently picked up a pair of Xuron 410s to replace my old pair of Army Painter cutters. They'd be wonderful, except for the fact that any cut leaves a huge gash on the side of the piece being cut from the sprue. I don't know if this is normal, or if something is wrong with my pair, but it was super frustrating to see a huge chunk taken out of a piece of a new kit. They do that thing where the blade edges don't actually contact each other, and one just kinda slides onto the other, which is supposed to be a feature? Here's an example on two pieces I've used the cutters on. I'm pretty sure those marks shouldn't be there, but who knows! 
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Jun 2, 2015 09:00
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 It's not a Heavyarms Custom, but by god it'll do in the meantime  . It's neat that the missile pods actually open, I figured they were going to just cheap out and have them permanently closed.
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Jun 2, 2015 09:02
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Astro Creep posted:So, sprue cutter question: I recently picked up a pair of Xuron 410s to replace my old pair of Army Painter cutters. They'd be wonderful, except for the fact that any cut leaves a huge gash on the side of the piece being cut from the sprue. I don't know if this is normal, or if something is wrong with my pair, but it was super frustrating to see a huge chunk taken out of a piece of a new kit. They do that thing where the blade edges don't actually contact each other, and one just kinda slides onto the other, which is supposed to be a feature? Just find some appropriately colored markers, dab the cut mark with them, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It's not a perfect coverup, but unless you want to get into sanding and painting theres no way to completely get rid of cut marks. Also, try rubbing your nail against the mark or rub the piece against something like your jeans - that also does wonders sometimes.
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Jun 2, 2015 09:11
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TaurusOxford posted:Just find some appropriately colored markers, dab the cut mark with them, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It's not a perfect coverup, but unless you want to get into sanding and painting theres no way to completely get rid of cut marks. That's a little disappointing, considering the Army Painter cutters have never had that problem on the 20+ kits I built with them. I already sand nubs whenever possible, it's just that these cuts are pretty darn deep, which you can't really tell from the picture. Buffing it out with my nail also didn't help. I might just try to return them and get a different pair, since I noticed they had some 2175ETs as well. Would those have the same issue? Edit: On the other hand, this does give me a good excuse to start painting these things! Astro Creep fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 09:26
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Astro Creep posted:So, sprue cutter question: I recently picked up a pair of Xuron 410s to replace my old pair of Army Painter cutters. They'd be wonderful, except for the fact that any cut leaves a huge gash on the side of the piece being cut from the sprue. I don't know if this is normal, or if something is wrong with my pair, but it was super frustrating to see a huge chunk taken out of a piece of a new kit. They do that thing where the blade edges don't actually contact each other, and one just kinda slides onto the other, which is supposed to be a feature? That's just what Xuron cutters do, in my experience. That's why I don't really use them.
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Jun 2, 2015 09:34
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