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You are now a true brobaru. Also, I am going to drive down to mass and put your loving trim back on for you. If the car is locked I will get in. Through the windshield.
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May 22, 2015 13:39
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Slow is Fast posted:You are now a true brobaru. It's probably already cracked and ready to break again anyway.
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May 22, 2015 14:17
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THE TRIM FLAPS FOREVER THESE PLASTICS DON'T RUN
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May 22, 2015 14:32
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So yesterday I went to SiF's parent's place to wire the CJ more. Went pretty well, didn't get as far as we wanted but there are only a few more bits to finish under the hood and I have a drat solid plan for what's happening under the dash. I drove the Justy because the Forester decided to start leaking fuel from the pinch seam on the filter Saturday night and it was too late to buy a new one, and it's been running a little screwy anyways. It started out with a very minor shake, and by the time I got to Maine, it was shaking pretty drat bad. In fact, it was a very familiar feeling shake and there was a pronounced pull to one side... and when I got off the highway, it had the same jumpy steering wheel syndrome.  Hello, old friend. So now both front tires have gone pear shaped on me in about 2500 miles of driving. I'm pretty sure it's because they are dry rotted as gently caress and probably from the Clinton administration, I never really wanted anything more out of them than making it home from Colorado. Fortunately I had the spare with me, and four brand new tires in the back seat, so it's getting the new tires put on at lunch today.
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Jun 1, 2015 14:44
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Semi slicks right?
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Jun 1, 2015 14:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Semi slicks right? Tarmac on the outside, Gravel on the inside. 
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Jun 1, 2015 15:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Semi slicks right? 155/80R13 Kumho Solus KR21s. hosed up my budget for the quarter, they were $235 shipped. For four  I think it is going to cost half as much to have them mounted and balanced as it did to buy the drat things. 
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Jun 1, 2015 20:01
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Haha 155/80s, thats gonna be the best 10/10 driver ever, even daily doing that the 75 miles to work wont hurt it.
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Jun 2, 2015 01:56
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kastein posted:155/80R13 Kumho Solus KR21s. You haven't got your hands on a balancer yet?
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Jun 2, 2015 02:15
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kastein posted:I think it is going to cost half as much to have them mounted and balanced as it did to buy the drat things. Is this serious? No mom and pop shops? All the little local shops here have just as nice of equipment as the big chains and do it at a fraction of the price.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:36
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Sandbagger SA posted:You haven't got your hands on a balancer yet? Not yet, it's looking like harmonic balancers are hard to find. $200 from the dealer if it isn't NLA, no one makes aftermarket ones, and I need an 89-94 one because they are different on EFI engines for some reason. None on carpart, none anywhere, the donor engine's was hosed up by the idiot who raped the engine for its balance shaft. It's almost getting to the point that I'm going to spend some quality time searching for any/all harmonic balancers with the same diameter and keyway for the crank and a larger seal diameter and then turn one down, and adjust the location of the alternator till the belt path lines up again. Fortunately it's literally only running the alternator, so if it starts wobbling really really bad, as long as the seal still seals, I can pull the alt belt and limp it home with bare minimum electrical.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:58
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How hosed? Have you thought of sending it out to be rebuilt?
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Jun 2, 2015 05:18
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kastein posted:Not yet, it's looking like harmonic balancers are hard to find. $200 from the dealer if it isn't NLA, no one makes aftermarket ones, and I need an 89-94 one because they are different on EFI engines for some reason. None on carpart, none anywhere, the donor engine's was hosed up by the idiot who raped the engine for its balance shaft. Just buy a cutoff of aluminum round stock and machine one at work
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Jun 2, 2015 06:37
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I think the damping portion is a bit more complicated than that. But at the same time, I am pretty sure ATI super dampers are just fatty O rings between aluminum rings. Dunno.
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Jun 2, 2015 06:43
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Commodore_64 posted:I think the damping portion is a bit more complicated than that. But at the same time, I am pretty sure ATI super dampers are just fatty O rings between aluminum rings. Dunno. That's basically what most harmonic balancers are, just two pieces of steel with a fat rubber ring holding them together. They're like that to prevent crankshaft vibrations from resonating. You could probably get away with a solid pulley, just don't go lugging the engine.
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Jun 2, 2015 06:47
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Yeah, the damping part that keeps you from cracking crankshafts with high frequency harmonics is allegedly rubber injected between the two parts at several hundred psi. Way out of my league. Tire improvement: HOLY poo poo these are better than the old ones. Grip, ride, NVH, everything is improved. Money well spent. That WAS the mom and pop mount/balance price, btw, prices are a little screwy here. Next up: collecting more engine parts. Also SSS is awesome and found a cache of factory service manuals for similar-enough years, so I may have some idea what is going on in this crazy transmission soon. E: my impression is that the damper kills high freq harmonics not low ones - I may be wrong, though. Either way I am not inclined to find out when I have two cranks to play with, so I am going to see if I can find a similar balancer to turn down since it means less machining anyways.
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Jun 2, 2015 06:50
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Wow, I just realized this is a timing belt driven engine even though it has a chain and oil-containing timing cover, since that's all for the balance shaft and oil/water pumps. So I just have to match the ID, keyway, offset from mounting surface to first belt groove, rough OD where it passes through the timing cover, and rough pulley diameter and I am golden. This makes things much easier. Way too used to harmonic balancers that the front main seal rides on... The only thing being driven is the alternator which means diameter is *very* forgiving. Wouldn't break my heart to upgrade to a more common alternator with more output, either, so if that makes things work so be it. I accidentally learned way too much about nippon denso alternator lego-swapping at work a few weeks ago, this ought to be fun. One 4-wire 65 amp internally regulated alternator coming right up
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Jun 2, 2015 07:13
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kastein posted:I have two cranks to play with Admit it, you put that line in to get my attention, didn't you?  But seriously, the timing belt is exposed to oil?  Or is there another cover inside for the balance shaft/chain/pumps?What's the output of the stock alternator?
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Jun 2, 2015 08:21
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Actually I didn't. Timing belt's not oiled - the timing cover goes over the balance chain assembly, then has the timing sprockets, then the plastic outer timing covers, then the harmonic balancer. Stock: 55 amp reman $80 reman w/ core $134 Durango/ZJ 136 amp reman $115 reman w/core $162 160 amp reman $130 reman w/core $194 So for 28 bucks I can add 81 amps capacity, or for 60 bucks I can add 105 amps capacity. Could go with a stock XJ unit (117 amp) for $95 with no core charge and more than double stock capacity, too. All of this is before adding the $20 replacement 63.5mm type Nippon Denso regulator and $5 rear rectifier pack cover I'd have to install to convert the alternator to internal regulation w/ external reference. Still, I may do this simply because I have XJ alternators out the rear end in my spares pile and most of them need a field terminal connection block since the studs love to twist off. That's the one expensive part I'd be replacing anyways. This is all assuming the drat thing fits in the spot available and doesn't have stupid brackets that are impossible to adapt to the Justy engine. I'm reasonably certain of both of those since there's basically a cavernous hole behind the engine right over the alternator since that's where the steering column and brake booster went on RHD models. First priority is finding a suitable harmonic balancer, second is finding the easiest/fastest nippon denso or stock alternator that will line the accessory belt path back up if the different balancer offsets it.
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Jun 2, 2015 15:40
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XJ conversion and be done with it.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:22
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EVERYWHERE 
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kastein posted:Not yet, it's looking like harmonic balancers are hard to find. $200 from the dealer if it isn't NLA, no one makes aftermarket ones, and I need an 89-94 one because they are different on EFI engines for some reason. None on carpart, none anywhere, the donor engine's was hosed up by the idiot who raped the engine for its balance shaft. I don't know if you've seen it yet, but there's a (used) one from a '91 on Ebay right now.
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Jun 3, 2015 01:46
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Black88GTA posted:I don't know if you've seen it yet, but there's a (used) one from a '91 on Ebay right now.  I hadn't seen that. Sending the guy a massive parts list request now, that thing is a perfect donor. If he doesn't respond I'll just buy it, that's the cheapest I've seen yet. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2015 02:22
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I have a question for Ken. I am changing a water pump on a 2001 XJ Cherokee 4.0L. The water pump has a curved metal pipe coming out of it that connects to a heater hose. The pipe was threaded TIGHT into the old water pump. When I tighten the pipe into the new water pump, the pipe points the wrong direction. What is the best course of action for dealing with this? Put some teflon tape on it and tighten until it points the right direction, even if the pipe can be tightened further?
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Jun 3, 2015 03:01
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Yeah that's what I always do, a dozen layers of teflon tape then tighten it till it feels tight enough and turn it further till it lines up. Make sure the tape goes the direction that makes it not wad up as you thread the pipe in. For future reference you can buy that pipe brand new on rockauto for like 7 dollars. I've never had one come out intact so I just keep a new one on the spares pile these days. Turns out an EF12-E crank snout is 23.5 to 23.6mm diameter where it goes through the balancer. Anyone got a mic and an old ej22 or ej25 crank handy? I bet/hope that is the same. I used my ghetto calipers to measure that so time to find the proper mic and get a more accurate reading. Still buying that ebay one, but I will still be short a balancer after that (none for the spare motor) so I may as well figure this out while it is fresh in my mind. E: mic says 0.925 (23.495) with great repeatability. Guess I need a balancer to fit 23.5 with a tightish pressfit, does 1.5 thousandths (microns) per inch (mm) still hold true here? That gives me like 23.46mm desired ID on the new balancer. E2: belt required is a K04 profile 4 rib micro-V. Need to measure OD and offset from crank tbelt pulley face tomorrow, from there I can start junkyard scrounging. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 04:39
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kastein posted:Yeah that's what I always do, a dozen layers of teflon tape then tighten it till it feels tight enough and turn it further till it lines up. Make sure the tape goes the direction that makes it not wad up as you thread the pipe in.
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Jun 3, 2015 18:34
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Wow, didn't realize advance had em for that cheap! Good to know.Black88GTA posted:I don't know if you've seen it yet, but there's a (used) one from a '91 on Ebay right now. Sadly they sent me a very terse email saying they had none of the parts I was asking for, but I did buy this and it should arrive soon I hope! Thanks again. Also, last night I was driving home from work, was about a mile from home going by a small repair shop/used car dealership, and... WTF is that?!  It's got 70k on it, motor sounds good, body is kinda beat and has a bit of rust but not too bad, 2wd manual. I don't need two of them, and really don't need a 2wd one, so I'm trying to convince a friend of mine he should buy it, we should swap a prius traction motor, driver, and battery pack into it to make it a full-on electric vehicle, and I'll buy the motor off him to put in mine whole instead of screwing around with this pulled apart one. They're asking $1100, which is pretty crazy for its condition.
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Jun 5, 2015 06:33
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kastein posted:E: mic says 0.925 (23.495) with great repeatability. Guess I need a balancer to fit 23.5 with a tightish pressfit, does 1.5 thousandths (microns) per inch (mm) still hold true here? That gives me like 23.46mm desired ID on the new balancer. 23.5mm is .9252in, 2 tenths on something that big would probably require you to heat the balancer and cool the snout. I'd aim for at least 5 tenths, even then that might be a bitch.
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Jun 5, 2015 06:44
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Good point. I am so used to bearing pressfits and poo poo where you can use a bearing splitter to get them back off that I didn't even think about it  I'll measure the new-used one when it shows up and see how much they gave it... you know, on a 20 year old used part that has been on and off who knows how many times. Oh well the tolerance/precision/wear levels will go well with the crank on the new engine, another 20 year old used part that has had the balancer on and off who knows how many times!
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Jun 5, 2015 19:18
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Just an FYI, ATI recommends an interference of .009 to 1.2 thou on its steel super dampers. .002 on the aluminum hub versions. I've seen people recommend that they are driven on with an installer tool after heating. http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
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Jun 5, 2015 21:16
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On every engine I've ever worked on EXCEPT for Subarus I've had to use an extra long grade 8 or 10.9 bolt plus a stack of washers and dab of grease to get the balancer pulled on. I have a power steering pump pulley installer tool that includes a thrust bearing and I have to say it's way nicer and less damaging to the threads in the crank/pump shaft to use something like that, so I may consider that. I'm not sure if this balancer will be interference fit or not though - at least on EJ series engines they seem to be barely interference if at all, you can rock them off of the crank. At least mine is like that and hasn't had any issues yet  All bets are off on the EF12-E, it's a weirdo engine and I've never taken a balancer off of one or put one on. Who knows what it'll be like...
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Jun 5, 2015 21:20
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Off hand I'd guess the interference helps carry the torque associated with accessories and/or prevents fatiguing the key or keyway. The super dampers may be expected to transmit more torque than other applications.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:24
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I agree, that's what I would expect, but Subaru doesn't seem to engineer things according to normal rules. It seems almost like (at least on the EJ series) they rely on the friction between the shoulder on the crank, the back of the timing sprocket, the front of the timing sprocket, and the back of the harmonic balancer to transfer power instead of the friction between those as well as the light pressfit of the shaft like most other companies engines I'm used to working with.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:30
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Huh. I was able to put my 4.0's balancer back on with a few whacks from a hammer/block combo and then using the bolt and an impact (only because the crank wanted to turn and I had the engine hanging on chains, ready to put back in the Jeep, therefore no good way to keep it from turning). Was it too loose
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Jun 6, 2015 00:31
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Commodore_64 posted:Just an FYI, ATI recommends an interference of .0009 to .0012" on its steel super dampers. .002 on the aluminum hub versions. I've seen people recommend that they are driven on with an installer tool after heating. Holy poo poo. Press fit? I don't think I've ever encountered a timing belt car that has a press fit hub. Hondas, Toyotas, Volvo's, miatas, all slip fit. The dampers that ATI seems to be talking about are chain driven GM engines. Hell, even then I know for a fact that the Nissan L series chain engines are also slip fit dampers. New dampers from manufactures usually need a little work with emery cloth until they slip on. E: my previous post I was saying 5 tenths slip fit.
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Jun 6, 2015 01:11
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Yup! The ones they sell for Miatas use an interference fit as well.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:21
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Got an electrical XJ question for you Ken, My 1988 XJ has factory running lights in the harness - the housings/bulbs were hosed on several levels (thanks previous owner(s)) so I snipped off the old units and spliced on cheapo Hella 500s. They're controlled on/off by the factory toggle switch to the left of the steering column. They work fine, except you can't run them simultaneously with the highbeams - as soon as I toggle brights on with the column lever, the running lights go off (I assume this is some factory legal requirement?). I'd like to be able to run both at once for nighttime desert stuff. Is there an easy fix for this, or is it limited due to alternator output or somesuch? Keep in mind I am extremely ignorant when it comes to electrical stuff, but I'm attempting to learn. So far I've hardwired in a 800w inverter via 6GA w/ a 150amp ANL fuse near the battery and crimped my own 2GA battery cables, but that's about it. I have both analogue & digital multimeters for RENIX sensor poo poo but am pretty vague as to their functions beyond what the Cruiser54 tips describe.
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Jun 8, 2015 07:29
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Yeah, FMVSS states somewhere that fog lamps may not be used when the high beams are on IIRC. I forget which one it is, but there is a fairly simple relay mod (you either fold a pin over or wire two together, then put it back in the socket) that disables that feature. Some googling of xj cherokee fog lamp relay mod may turn up an answer, not sure, it has been years since I thought about factory fog light wiring at all. You should probably add relays and wiring supplying those direct from the battery, BTW. Run the relay coil with the old wires for the fog lamp, run the fog lamp with the relays direct from the battery using 12 or 10 gauge wire and an appropriately sized fuse, enjoy your brighter driving lamps. The factory wiring is undersized at best for even the stock bulbs.
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Jun 8, 2015 08:19
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Gotcha, thanks. I'll rewire that when I get the chance.
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Jun 8, 2015 17:08
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REVENGE OF THE RAV4 The unibody stiffening rails that the rear right coil spring perch attaches to on my aunt's rav4 is now the only area that is keeping it from passing safety inspection. As such, I've been on the lookout for a suitable donor for a while. She had one lined up at a yard near her but they quoted her 120 bucks, then jacked that up to 220 bucks with no warranty, due before it was removed from the vehicle, whether it turned out to be rotted out from the inside or not, when she went to buy it a few days later. Therefore, we told them to die in an ebola fire and I went back to hunting. Found one last weekend but didn't have the sawzall with me. After an hour and a half of being cockblocked by defective sawzall batteries (I bet the company denies my extended warranty claim... and I bet I either escalate and win, or cost them five figures in lost sales, we'll see) I finally succeeded in chiseling, sawing, sawzalling, and wrestling the piece I needed out of the donor chassis.  ~junkyard treasures~  The part I need is somewhat rotted on this one as well (it's a failure due entirely to Toyota's chassis design - they didn't put any suitable drain holes in this area, and it's downhill from an opening further up on the crossmember, so water gets in and just festers in there until it rots out) but now that I have it in my hands to use as a template I'm pretty sure I can duplicate it easily enough with sheet stock so this shouldn't be a problem. The coil spring perch and bumpstop tower are intact on this one which is more than I can say for the original, and those are the only hard to reproduce parts involved.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:24
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No pics because it was 11:30 and dark when I got done with it, but yesterday I got the new (to me) tire mounted on the fourth wheel for the blue MJ, wire wheeled all the rust and mud off the rotors that came with the axle I threw in it, cleaned up the calipers (sprayed with garden hose), twisted one bleed screw off, found my spare caliper, threw a new set of pads I had hanging around in, bolted it all up, discovered one unit bearing was entirely seized, picked up a passable used one for free from a friend, bolted that in, and got the wheels on. Yes, this is all screamingly ghetto, no I don't care in the slightest, it's better than it was and all the brake/hub/steering poo poo is getting cut off and replaced with 8 lug 1 ton outers as soon as it runs and drives anyways. Remaining to do before it will drive: - figure out why rear brake line union is trickling brake fluid and fix it - put fourth matched wheel/tire on - empty bed of spare parts and junk - fix transmission control system, it seems to be dead, resulting in no TQ lockup, manual shifting, and no second gear. Experience tells me this is because the TCU is either completely dead, or has no power. Worstcase I'll build a manumatic controller for it, gently caress it, it's getting torn out soon anyways. - install new exhaust parts, or steal the cherry bomb and auto-gutted cat off the white MJ since it's just a glorified engine hoist now anyways - fix driver door latch - fix front headlight wiring - put battery in it - put it on the ground, settle the suspension, and torque all bolts to spec - fix the drat hood linkage (again, steal parts off the XJ or white MJ) - alignment, if I decide I care about the $10 set of mildly dry rotted tires longevity Then it's off to insurance, registration, inspection... followed by a drivetrain swap once I collect a few more parts.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:45
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