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I'm puzzled as to what would require a new wax ring? Was the toilet installed poorly and is rocking? Did you just re-do the floors? Is the flange below the height of the finished floor? Is your piss boiling hot? That seems like one of those things that you never have to worry about unless you move your toilet.
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May 28, 2015 23:20
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canyoneer posted:I'm puzzled as to what would require a new wax ring? Was the toilet installed poorly and is rocking? Did you just re-do the floors? Is the flange below the height of the finished floor? Is your piss boiling hot? This is why people who have done this almost always tell you to buy new closet bolts also. Because they are usually bad, which is why your toilet was moving in the first place and what is making it leak.
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May 28, 2015 23:34
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Our toilet, which was not properly calibrated with the tile height, was leaking and the plumbers response was: A.) Replace Wax Ring. Oh that didn't work? B.) loving DOUBLE STACK THOSE WAX SEALS BITCH. Oh that didn't work? C.) Caulk the gently caress out of the toilet straight to the tile. We are currently trying to get that poo poo taken care of.
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May 29, 2015 05:53
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Sleepstupid posted:So, a plumber quoted me $200 to replace a wax ring on a toilet. That's something I can do myself, right? Very easy. It was one of my first things I learned to do in home repair. Well, I replaced the toilet as well. I had one of those cushioned toilet seats that was starting to look pretty gross after being 10~15 years old. I started searching for a new seat locally; only to find that it's not a standard size that's sold within 50 miles of me from any hardware store. Instead of continuing the search, I got a really nice toilet from Home Depot that had the dual flush buttons on the top of the tank for $89.
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May 29, 2015 15:16
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Dont forget to pull out the rag before reseating the toilet! That was a scary few seconds.
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May 29, 2015 21:31
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OK, toilet update: I'm replacing the wax ring because we are getting moisture in a couple of grout lines right at the front of it (they're turning darker than the rest). So, I did some googling and it seemed like that was the most likely culprit. I also read somewhere to check the water level in the bowl to see if it is getting lower on its own which might indicate a crack in the bowl somewhere. I've never really noticed that the water level was an issue but lo and behold when I looked at it this morning it did seem like there was less water than there should be, maybe? I'm going to let it sit over night again and check it in the morning without anyone using it to see what it looks like. As far as replacing goes, I'm pretty sure it is relatively new. It's also one of those fancy ones with the double push button flushers on the top so I'm guessing its kinda swanky (and expensive to replace). We'll see...planning on tackling this tomorrow hopefully. Edit: just saw uapyros post so maybe it's not that swanky 
Sleepstupid fucked around with this message at 23:18 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 23:15
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Sleepstupid posted:OK, toilet update: I'm replacing the wax ring because we are getting moisture in a couple of grout lines right at the front of it (they're turning darker than the rest). So, I did some googling and it seemed like that was the most likely culprit. I also read somewhere to check the water level in the bowl to see if it is getting lower on its own which might indicate a crack in the bowl somewhere. I've never really noticed that the water level was an issue but lo and behold when I looked at it this morning it did seem like there was less water than there should be, maybe? I'm going to let it sit over night again and check it in the morning without anyone using it to see what it looks like. A lot of toilets will have their made on date stamped into the porcelain on the back inside wall of the tank. That being said, have you also checked the tank for leaks? A leak there would run down the back of the toilet to the floor. Regardless, get a towel and a flashlight. Look under the tank from either side. See any water drops? Shine your flashlight in the gaps on both sides where the tank sits on the bowl. See any water in there? If you do see any leaks, wipe them away as best you can. If they develop from the edge of one of the tank openings, that's a relatively easy fix. If you see a leak form in the middle of the tank, it's time for a new toilet. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:13 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 00:25
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Also, make sure you turn your water off over night if you don't want the bowl to automatically fill up as it leaks. If that's what it is.
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May 30, 2015 05:37
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The tank will automatically refill, not the bowl.
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May 30, 2015 09:06
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Few drops of red or blue food coloring in the tank can help you find leaks. And a leaky flapper could cause a bowl to refill.
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May 30, 2015 15:01
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kid sinister posted:A lot of toilets will have their made on date stamped into the porcelain on the back inside wall of the tank. I did see a date stamp yesterday but it was hard to read. I think it said Jan. of 07. I've seen the leaky bowl thing mentioned on other sites and I'm 99% sure its not that. The moisture is appearing at the very front of the bowl, not the back or the sides. And I did feel all around it yesterday. At this point I'm at the end of my rope for troubleshooting and I'm just going to do the ring and see what happens. Thanks for all the input 
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May 30, 2015 15:10
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Sleepstupid posted:I did see a date stamp yesterday but it was hard to read. I think it said Jan. of 07. Huh. Rings normally last 10-15 years. One installed in 2007 at the earliest should still fine. Oh well. Be sure to replace the flange bolts at the same time. They're cheap and worth the future headache insurance, especially since you'll be messing with them anyway to get the toilet off. While you have your toilet pulled up, check for all this other stuff that could cause your toilet to wobble and cause a wax ring to fail early: 1. Broken flange 2. Broken tiles or grout 3. Tiles that are uneven or set lower than the flange 4. Wrong size wax ring 5. Broken flange bolts All of those can be fixed by the way.
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May 30, 2015 18:08
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I had a toilet leak recently, the wax ring slipped off center when the toilet was seated so there was no seal on one side. Made a nice lovely stain in the basement ceiling.
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May 30, 2015 18:48
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I have a concrete block garage that I'd like to start heating for winter projects. Since we regularly see multiple weeks of below -25C temperatures, I'd like to insulate so I'm not losing heat faster than producing it. I'd also like to keep as much interior space as possible, so I'd like to insulate the outside. Q: What are my options? One thing I don't want is siding. I have a brick period home, and a sided detached garage will look trashy IMO. EIFS looks fancy, but expensive. Can I foam board the outside and cover with board and batten?
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May 31, 2015 15:57
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mr.belowaverage posted:I have a concrete block garage that I'd like to start heating for winter projects. Since we regularly see multiple weeks of below -25C temperatures, I'd like to insulate so I'm not losing heat faster than producing it. I'd also like to keep as much interior space as possible, so I'd like to insulate the outside. How tight is your tolerance on the inside and how warm do you want to keep it? Something like a 2x3-based stud wall with 2" thick rigid foam panels would get you to r-10, and you'd only lose 2.5 inches per wall, 3 if you drywalled it.
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May 31, 2015 16:36
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Injection amino foam would solve your problem well, but I think it is still banned in Canada.
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May 31, 2015 16:45
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If you go ahead and fill the walls with solid concrete to 24" you could get an r value of around 2.
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May 31, 2015 17:25
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I was using a jet sprayer to clean my gutters yesterday and thought, while I was at it, I'd clean the windows and soffits. It wasn't a pressure washer, but more a telecscoping pole with a swivel nozzle on it for cleaning gutters from the ground. I'm a first time home owner so I'm not totally familiar about all the pieces of the house. So I just started spraying down the eves before I realized that, doh, there are soffit vents up there! They're slanted to face away from the direction I was spraying, but no doubt there was some spray blowback from impacting the side of the house (and pushing back up into the vent.). I seriously doubt it was a lot of water, and I won't be doing it again (just hand cleaning them next time). But I'm going to pop in the attic today and see if I soaked any of the insulation. Anything else I should check for?
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May 31, 2015 17:27
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BonoMan posted:I was using a jet sprayer to clean my gutters yesterday and thought, while I was at it, I'd clean the windows and soffits. I avoid getting water there, but the sun like heat in my attic should get that water evaporated pretty fast. If there is adequate venting it should be fine imo.
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May 31, 2015 18:25
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So I was a big idiot and when drilled a hole in my wall to hang something, I chewed up some soundproofing insulation. A bit of fluff came out when I withdrew the drill bit from the wall. Now the sounds in the adjacent room come through much more. As far as I know this wall is generally properly soundproofed. So what should I use to repair this specific hole? Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm not getting good leads on Google.
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May 31, 2015 18:50
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Best way to get a new tire on a rim? Not auto or anything, just a 6x3 rim or thereabouts from a little trailer for my lawn mower. I shredded a tire/tube this spring carrying too big a load and have a new tub and tire on halfway, except getting the second edge onto the rim. Best plan to just use a couple screwdrivers to pry it on and march around the edge? Or is there this one weird trick that tire fixers don't want me to know?
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May 31, 2015 21:41
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Bad Munki posted:one weird trick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhu-8ASc0gQ (not real advice)
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May 31, 2015 21:58
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slap me silly posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhu-8ASc0gQ Aside from that not being real advice, that's not actually my situation, since in that video, they've already gotten both sides of the tire on the rim. e: But if it was my situation, I'd totally do it, safety be damned. 
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May 31, 2015 22:08
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Bad Munki posted:Best way to get a new tire on a rim? Not auto or anything, just a 6x3 rim or thereabouts from a little trailer for my lawn mower. I shredded a tire/tube this spring carrying too big a load and have a new tub and tire on halfway, except getting the second edge onto the rim. Mix up some dish soap water and use it liberally through the process as lube. Coat up the rim and bead. I use a short 2x4 and push straight down to get it started then push horizontally and down when I'm halfway done.
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May 31, 2015 22:36
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Sleepstupid posted:I did see a date stamp yesterday but it was hard to read. I think it said Jan. of 07. Make sure that all of the mating surfaces are clean. REALLY CLEAN. I have lost track of the number of closet flange leak claims I've done because the porcelain was dusty or the flange was full of old wax.
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Jun 1, 2015 03:48
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fleshweasel posted:So I was a big idiot and when drilled a hole in my wall to hang something, I chewed up some soundproofing insulation. A bit of fluff came out when I withdrew the drill bit from the wall. Now the sounds in the adjacent room come through much more. As far as I know this wall is generally properly soundproofed. So what should I use to repair this specific hole? Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm not getting good leads on Google. The bit of fluff you messed with doesn't matter. There's more sound coming through because there's a hole in the wall. Plug the hole with something solid and you'll be fine.
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Jun 1, 2015 05:00
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slap me silly posted:(not real advice) Old timer's trick, I've seen it done dozens of times.
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Jun 1, 2015 05:01
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Icemaker chat. We have a ~13 year old undercounter GE Monogram icemaker. The only issue we've had with it so far is a wire in the grid broke ($40 on ebay got a used grid that looked brand new; I'll eventually rewire the original one and keep it as a spare).  So far I've tried running a typical ice maker cleaner through it (the same one recommended by GE). You'll also notice in that picture that I've unplugged the temp sensor that goes to the plate, which according to the service manual, forces it to do a harvest every 30-45 minutes instead of when it reaches whatever temp it's supposed to hit (it also prevents the cleaning cycle from running). I've also taken it apart and wiped down the plate with a paper towel, followed by running a cleaning cycle with ice maker cleaner. I haven't yet measured the temp, but it's obviously cold enough to make ice. The problem started suddenly enough that I seriously doubt it's low on refrigerant; it was working like brand new two days ago, and started acting up yesterday. Ideas? I'm hoping it's just a bad temp sensor causing it not to harvest often enough. I just unplugged the temp sensor about 5 minutes ago, so I have no idea if that's going to help or not yet. I'm a bit out of my element when it comes to refrigeration. EDIT: looks like my suspicion about a bad temp sensor is right. It just went into harvest and dumped a typical ~1" thick sheet into the cutting grid. That sensor is a pain in the dick to get at too.  I'll probably just leave it unplugged for now, since having it unplugged forces a harvest every ~30 minutes.e2: 3 sheets now, and it's filling back up with ice really quick. Definitely the temp sensor. Now I just have to figure out how to get to the drat thing. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 06:58
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nielsm posted:Those holes were left by a previous tenant, the official stance on holes and ugly paint jobs here is Just go to IKEA and ask for a new bracket. They give out small parts like that free.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:47
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. It's more a question of drilling new holes and filling the previous ones being a chore.
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Trying to screw into a steel plate, its about 2/8" thick, got some sheet metal screws (stainless steel) from home depot and they wont go in. They're #8 so I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole. I even tried SPAX screws and the threads on the screw just shred off. I made the hole bigger to 9/64" but it still wasn't happening, screw just spins and if I put enough force on it for it to bite the threads sheer off. Do I need to order some kind of specialty screw online with a titanium coating and teeth on the threads? Do I need to switch to a rivet?
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Jun 1, 2015 23:44
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1/4" plate steel? Your best bet is going to be drilling and tapping a hole. Sheetmetal screws will bounce off of that all day. Drill & tap a hole and use machine screws, or get machine screws and matching bolts.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:01
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Sheet metal and steel plates are pretty different. Your screw is almost always going to be softer than the steel. A rivet may be easiest, although you could drill it and then tap it if you have a tap and die set up to the task and then use machine screws. Edit: beaten. But, yeah.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:13
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some texas redneck posted:e2: 3 sheets now, and it's filling back up with ice really quick. Definitely the temp sensor. Now I just have to figure out how to get to the drat thing. Welp, looks like I was right. It's gone from putting out 1-2 sheets of ice a day to this since unplugging that drat sensor. Now I just need to get a new sensor, then put the front cover back on. 
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Jun 2, 2015 08:36
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I'm travelling out in the sticks and can't get the correct pre-mixed fuel for a 2-stroke chainsaw. It's brandnew and specifically aks for a 40:1 petrol-lubricant mix. If I DIY this with the highest quality unleaded petrol mixed with 2.5% synthetic oil (plus a stabiliser as I understand it), is there a risk to the new engine? The nearest station is about 80mi out, so I'd be very grateful for a straight yes or no.
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Jun 3, 2015 08:47
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The premixed fuel is a fairly recent invention for lazy people. People used chainsaws for thousands of years mixing it themselves. You're supposed to use special 2-stroke oil -- it's made to burn more cleanly and not gunk up the sparkplug -- but using regular motor oil, while sub-optimal (it'll foul your sparkplug and gunk up the exhaust port) won't kill it. Although I'd imagine even the grocery stores out in the sticks carry 2-stroke oil. Unless you're posting via satellite from the middle of the Amazon jungle or something.
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Jun 3, 2015 11:24
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:The premixed fuel is a fairly recent invention for lazy people. People used chainsaws for thousands of years mixing it themselves. Not quite that bad, but close; the nearest Internet access point is at a place with bleached animal skulls and jujus dangling from the veranda roof. Thanks very much for the clear answer, I'll just mix it myself then.
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Jun 3, 2015 15:28
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Underflow posted:Not quite that bad, but close; the nearest Internet access point is at a place with bleached animal skulls and jujus dangling from the veranda roof. Thanks very much for the clear answer, I'll just mix it myself then. "The Will of Jah Motor-Cycle Repair Shop"
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Jun 3, 2015 23:30
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Vulcan posted:Trying to screw into a steel plate, its about 2/8" thick, got some sheet metal screws (stainless steel) from home depot and they wont go in. They're #8 so I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole. I even tried SPAX screws and the threads on the screw just shred off. You need a #12 or #14 self drilling screw. TEK 3 or so if you are really screwing them into a 1/4" steel plate. Something like this- https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11100322?r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600051%20Screws%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600063%20Self-Drilling%20Screws%22|~%20~|sattr09:^5pound3$|~%20~|sattr02:^Steel$|~%20~|sattr03:^%22Hex%20Washer%22$|~ There are probably cheaper sources out there, this was the easiest I could reference. The TEK X number, (X=3,4,4.5,5) references how deep the flute of the screw is and is directly proportional to how thick a steel plate you can drill into without the threads catching and burning up the drill point. A Tek 5 is rated to 1/2" steel plate. ( from my recollection). Hope this helps.
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Jun 4, 2015 03:09
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PainterofCrap posted:"The Will of Jah Motor-Cycle Repair Shop" Raki's Super American Market (NO CREDIT). Delivery McGee: thing runs fine, thanks again.
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Jun 4, 2015 07:49
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Does anybody here know about riding mowers? I have a John Deere D-105 whose cutting belt likes to slip when disengaged. So when I try to engage it again, the belt is no longer wrapped around the pulleys, and the blades won't cut. I pulled the tensioner all the way to the outside and it's still too slack. I just assumed the belt got really floppy, but the replacement seems just as large. I was thinking maybe the spring engaging the blades that pulls the belt taught was too loose, but the lever connected to it is pretty firm even when disengaged. it's really confusing to me. The only thing I can think to try is see if I can flip the tensioner around 180 degrees. If I can, I can get a little more pull. I'm assuming it's keyed a certain way that will keep me from pulling this off.
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Jun 4, 2015 08:14
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