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Biomute posted:I'd like to think there's more to all of this then just hitting an IBU target while maintaining a certain proportion of late hops since so many seem to think there is, but I'm having doubts. Anyone have any thoughts, or better yet, know of a good resource where some facts might be found? Homebrewing is full of repeated myths. I love playing around with my hop schedule and it seems like every little variation makes a difference.
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Jun 1, 2015 20:16
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I learned on a counterflow chiller and think it spoiled me. I couldn't imagine using any other type.
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Jun 1, 2015 20:59
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Adult Sword Owner posted:I've dumped ice into mine Biomute posted:I've never seen a comprehensive answer for why hop additions are the way they are. It seems like the only substantiated knowledge we have is that the longer the hops are boiled the more bitterness is extracted and the less aromatic oils remain in the beer. Clearly, aroma additions, and even dry-hop imparts flavor, so what are "flavor additions" good for exactly? Plenty of popular hoppy beers do well without them. I've heard people say multiple additions impart complexity to the hop flavor, but there only seems to be anecdotal evidence for this, with other anecdotal evidence to disprove it. As long as you are still boiling, the difference between any one time and a few minutes from that time is going to be minimal. The perception with flameout (0 min) hops is that the beer basically won't be boiling, so the lower temperature means the extraction is different. Most of the 20 vs 15 vs 10 minute timing things come from what people are used to seeing in recipes. I like to do 10 minutes because I add the hops, Servomyces, whirlfloc, and chiller at the same time. There is no "sealing in". Different compounds in the hops are extracted at different temperatures, that's it, and you extract more, to a limit, based on how long it is at that temperature.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:05
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Glottis posted:I like to do 10 minutes because I add the hops, Servomyces, whirlfloc, and chiller at the same time.  Also, if you really want to get wacky, figure out what FWH does and why/how it's different. ChickenArise fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 21:14
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ChickenArise posted:You're pitching at 10min? At least there we have something resembling a study showing there *is* a difference. edit: Glottis posted:There is no "sealing in". Different compounds in the hops are extracted at different temperatures, that's it, and you extract more, to a limit, based on how long it is at that temperature. Yeah, I know. My point was that people make up all kinds of rationalizations for what they do, with little to back it up with. By the way, what do you mean by extracted? Are you claiming the act of boiling the hops releases new/more flavor compounds over time? What little I have found in the way of papers on the subject indicate that even flavor compounds with high boiling points such as linalool are more likely to make it into the final beer the later it is added to the boil (whirlpool steep being the best). I guess the more I look at it the more it seems like a bittering step, a whirlpool and optionally dry-hopping is the way to go, but even that is only based on anecdotal evidence and a few scattered papers. I wish there was more science to it. thotsky fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 21:18
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ChickenArise posted:You're pitching at 10min? Pitching? Servomyces ! = Saccahromyces. Or am I missing something? Biomute posted:At least there we have something resembling a study showing there *is* a difference. I think the science is out there, it's just harder to find. For the record, I have made beers that were from solely a single bittering addition and then whirlpool additions only, which were good. As stupid as this sounds, sometimes I want more crisp hop bitterness without as much hop flavor as you'd get from only whirlpool additions, and a mid-boil addition kind of modulates that.
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Jun 1, 2015 23:29
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Ohhh I misread
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Jun 1, 2015 23:35
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yamdankee posted:What do you guys do to cool down the wort quickly? I made as much ice as I could this last time and filled my sink with cold water and the ice, and it only took it from like 200 to 180. Should I buy bags of ice and fill the sink with only ice? Better way than that? my immersion chiller (which I built for about $50 or so) takes my wort from post boil ~210*F or so to 65-70*F in about 20-30 mins depending on the season. You can definitely buy one on Amazon if you'd rather not make one, which, in retrospect, I would have done too.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:58
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Speaking of chillers, Adventures in Homebrewing has their "economy" chiller on sale for $35 at the moment. Apparently the only thing that makes it "economy" is that the hoses and fittings are attached via clamps, rather than being compression/solder fittings.
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Jun 2, 2015 01:14
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Fwiw I do no boil additions for my hops, purely FWH and whirlpool additions. I often chill down to 85c and add my whirlpool hops then. Makes some pretty amazing hoppy beers.
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Jun 2, 2015 01:14
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If you don't like clamp fittings for the chiller, it's easy to solder on short extensions so that the likely failure/leak point is both outside your kettle and has no risk of running "downhill" into your beer.  protip: Extra-delicate with this modification, don't drop it and collapse one of the arms, like I did while taking this photo! I also built a secondary chiller, about half the size of the one in the photo, which sits in an ice water bath before feeding the main chiller. The combo is pretty effective.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:00
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If you're competent with soldering, you could also just abandon the clamps and solder on some fittings, no?
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Jun 2, 2015 02:26
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Scarf posted:If you're competent with soldering, you could also just abandon the clamps and solder on some fittings, no? 'swhat I did. Worked great, even though my skill at soldering is not really huge. Sweat fittings are not terribly hard to do if you follow the steps well, and they're not very expensive, either.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:28
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Scarf posted:If you're competent with soldering, you could also just abandon the clamps and solder on some fittings, no? Probably! But I originally did that while fighting with a leaking clamp and using only what the store down the street had available. At least I thought to leak check it before using it for real.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:52
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yamdankee posted:What do you guys do to cool down the wort quickly? I made as much ice as I could this last time and filled my sink with cold water and the ice, and it only took it from like 200 to 180. Should I buy bags of ice and fill the sink with only ice? Better way than that? Immersion chiller. Temps drop like the bass at a dubstep.. uhhhh... event. I got mine on sale for like $50. My cooling went from a 1h45 min ice bath to 10 mins + some chilled top off water. But then again I make stuff where ferm temps can vary pretty wildly and not affect the overall out come. The old Belgian "set it and forget it" method works pretty well now that my land lords have the AC on. My place is like a constant 16-18C .
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Jun 2, 2015 07:06
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It happened last night: For a completely unknown reason, 10-12 bottles blew up in my closet. I'm the dummy who doesn't condition in plastic tubs (will be fixing that tonight). Most of that beer had been sitting for almost 9 months, and it picked last night to blow up?
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Jun 2, 2015 13:08
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So we're moving house this weekend and.. I scored a full under-house area for the brewery  it's a 2 story joint, 4 bed, I got a monster bedroom like 5x4 metres, with built ins, and downstairs has a single bay lockable shed, but also is fully enclosed with inside padlocked doors, and power. So the fridges have been allocated an area, there's built in timber storage shelves (big enough to hold my grain containers!), a water supply and triple sink. The only downside is the sink not being big enough to hold my vessel but hey, I have way more storage space. Just gotta share it with the dogs! Photos to come when it's set up
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Jun 2, 2015 14:07
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9 months??? I thought you couldn't let beer sit that long unless it was pasteurized? Also, thanks guys for the immersion chiller recommendation. I think I'll be going with this (love prime), and a faucet adapter (my sink faucet is super high pressure).
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Jun 2, 2015 14:10
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yamdankee posted:9 months??? I thought you couldn't let beer sit that long unless it was pasteurized? I don't actually know the answer to that. The beer in question was one of my first batches and it wasn't very good - I wasn't terribly excited about drinking it and thought I'd leave it and see if it got better.
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Jun 2, 2015 14:14
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yamdankee posted:9 months??? I thought you couldn't let beer sit that long unless it was pasteurized? I think >50% of my beer is older than 9 months. Got to age them sours, son.
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Jun 2, 2015 15:03
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yamdankee posted:9 months??? I thought you couldn't let beer sit that long unless it was pasteurized? If your sanitation is good, yeah you can let it sit that long. I'm guessing robotsinmyhead had a minor infection that was slowly building up pressure over months. For sour beers, you can let them sit as long as you want, but the important thing is that there is basically nothing left for even an (additional) infection to eat so it can't build up an excessive amount of pressure.
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Jun 2, 2015 15:31
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Even some non-sour beers are good for a few years. I've had Imperial Stouts age well for 15 months or so before they ran dry - coulda gone longer, but it was just so drat good. I have some quad in bottles in my garage now that's several years old.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:14
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Scarf posted:Speaking of chillers, Adventures in Homebrewing has their "economy" chiller on sale for $35 at the moment. Apparently the only thing that makes it "economy" is that the hoses and fittings are attached via clamps, rather than being compression/solder fittings. Don't need another chiller, since I have a 25 foot one, but at that price it's real tempting to buy another one to make as a "pre-chiller" stuck in an ice bath, before it goes through the hot wort.
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Jun 2, 2015 16:16
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Scarf posted:Speaking of chillers, Adventures in Homebrewing has their "economy" chiller on sale for $35 at the moment. Apparently the only thing that makes it "economy" is that the hoses and fittings are attached via clamps, rather than being compression/solder fittings. I feel so spoiled that AiH is my LHBS. I'm making their Oberon clone for my next batch, probably this weekend.
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Jun 2, 2015 18:19
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Nth Doctor posted:I feel so spoiled that AiH is my LHBS. I'm making their Oberon clone for my next batch, probably this weekend. I'd be happy with any lhbs. Living 100+ miles from Austin/Houston for your lhbs sucks.
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Jun 2, 2015 18:45
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Anyone know how quickly Yeast Bay ships put usually? I placed an order yesterday morning hoping to get it for brewing this weekend. I'm assuming they ship 2 day priority mail so as long as it ships tomorrow I'm ok.
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Jun 3, 2015 02:45
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rockcity posted:Anyone know how quickly Yeast Bay ships put usually? I placed an order yesterday morning hoping to get it for brewing this weekend. I'm assuming they ship 2 day priority mail so as long as it ships tomorrow I'm ok. I can get week old Yeast Bay in Australia via Vyrkuza so if you're in the states I would bet it would be pretty fresh
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Jun 3, 2015 03:58
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McSpergin posted:I can get week old Yeast Bay in Australia via Vyrkuza so if you're in the states I would bet it would be pretty fresh I'm not worried it won't be fresh, I'm just worried I won't have it for my planned brew day this Sunday. I should have ordered it last Friday to make sure it shipped this week, but it slipped my mind.
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Jun 3, 2015 04:27
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McSpergin posted:I can get week old Yeast Bay in Australia via Vyrkuza so if you're in the states I would bet it would be pretty fresh Ooh, I'm in the market for a 14 gal chronical Vyrkuza. Goon discount? 
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Jun 3, 2015 08:51
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robotsinmyhead posted:It happened last night: Sometimes all it takes is for room temperature to go up a few degrees if the bottles were overcarbed due to priming error or minor infection. I haven't had bombs but I have noticed a few yeasts (British ones like the Whitbread strains especially) like to wake up in the bottle and attenuate more than I thought they would.
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Jun 3, 2015 10:41
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What are yalls thoughts on Czech Saaz vs. US Saaz? I've heard that the US version is a bit harsher.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:59
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I gotta assume my explosions were heat related. It took some time, but it finally turned into summer in Indiana. My interior closets are pretty awesome for ale fermenting (63ish) and I condition in another space that's a bit warmer, but we've had the windows open and it's gotten up around 70 for a while. I don't know where I'm going to ferment all summer 
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Jun 3, 2015 15:46
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Looks like it's time to invest in a freezer! Edit: Monday the contents of my bottles of my first brew should be ready to consume. Buuuuut a few friends are coming over this Friday. If I wanted to jump the gun and just taste one, would it be a waste and disappointment, or would it be close enough to done that it'd be ok to try? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 15:55
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Hey everybody. Brewing a session IPA tomorrow for 4th of July weekend. How's my recipe look? Mashing @ 155F Fermenting at ~67 for 2 weeks, Dry hopping the last 4 days.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:33
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Exactly how much body/mouthfeel are you going for with all of that oat, carapils, and 155* mash? If it were my recipe I'd get rid of the oats and dial back both the carapils and C30 to 0.75lb. I'd also move your 60 minute Amarillo to 10 or 0 minutes, and your 20 minute additions to 10 minutes.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:44
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Jo3sh posted:Even some non-sour beers are good for a few years. I've had Imperial Stouts age well for 15 months or so before they ran dry - coulda gone longer, but it was just so drat good. I have some quad in bottles in my garage now that's several years old. I aged a terrible cider experimental for about 3 years in the bottles, it was better after letting it sit... Not enough fermentables and champagne yeast. It was terrible young.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:56
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I was loosely basing the recipe off information I found for Founder's All Day IPA online. Apparently right from the horse's (Founder's Brewing) mouth.quote:My notes from Jeremy at NHC - 50% Rahr two row and 20% flaked oats. 5 other grains make up the remaining 30%, but all he noted was Simpsons crystal malt (no amount or color given) and carapils. Mash high. I agree that I am nervous with this ratio of crystal to base malt. I'd like to avoid the beer being watery so maybe I'm over compensating with the oats and crystal. Maybe I'm off base thinking low OG = watery beer but I've never (purposefully) made a beer this low in OG. The 60 minute Amarillo is a mash hop (not sure if you saw that, my apologies if you did). I do think the IBU's are a bit on the high side. Maybe I could swap the FWH/mash hops. Using the Simcoe as a mash hop and the Amarillo as a FWH (or maybe Amarillo for both as stated above) would drop the IBUs by a good chunk and get them more in line with what other home brewers are doing for session IPAs.
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Jun 3, 2015 17:11
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ZIGfried posted:Hey everybody. Brewing a session IPA tomorrow for 4th of July weekend. How's my recipe look? I don't think that's way out of line with the grist, its 2 lbs of crystal, which is kind of high but not crazy. Same with the oatmeal, but I like full body, fairly sweet beers. You're not gonna get much of a contribution of flavor/sweetness from so little base malt, so you have to have something. You could add Munich or Vienna. I might mash 152, but you probably wouldn't notice a difference with 155. I've screwed up my strike water and mashed at 160+ and nobody could tell... Der Penguingott fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 17:47
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rockcity posted:Anyone know how quickly Yeast Bay ships put usually? I placed an order yesterday morning hoping to get it for brewing this weekend. I'm assuming they ship 2 day priority mail so as long as it ships tomorrow I'm ok. They at least used to ship on a schedule. Something like every Tuesday they ship out all of their orders, and as long as you got the order in before that day it would ship that day. I'd just email them and ask when they will ship, if it's that time-sensitive.
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Jun 3, 2015 18:18
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j3rkstore posted:I'd also move your 60 minute Amarillo to 10 or 0 minutes, and your 20 minute additions to 10 minutes. Don't listen to this man. Amarillo is a great bittering hop. I've had great success with it in the past in multiple brews. It holds up well as an early addition.
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Jun 3, 2015 19:21
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