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jodai posted:Alternatively, miniature market has begun selling Game Plus products. The basic bag is $34.99 and it holds 14.5 inches of foam. Each tray is $7.75. So it's pretty cheap in comparison and it seems decent but I have no personal experience. As a side note, GamePlus uses the standard 7.5x13 sheet, and a single KRU is 15x10. This means that if you cut 3" off a GamePlus sheet it becomes a half-width KR sheet. You just have to glue the bottom a bit. I use this solution when I need a shape that KR doesn't stock. I could go on for pages about storage
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Jun 2, 2015 17:47
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Painted up some of the new Assassins. Not terribly great photos, but I have to make due to a whiteboard and poor lighting. :/ 
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Jun 2, 2015 18:10
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head58 posted:Also Sabol is having a sale through June 14. You could pick up a second bag or one of their backpacks. I can usually fit two 50pt lists into my Army Transport bag, but I run a lot of small infantry. If you play Trolls or something larger I can see why that might not work. Have you seen the backpack in real life? I was just looking at it, but it looks seriously uncomfortable to wear... I'd love to have a good gaming bag I could use as a backpack, but the choices either seem to be "giant box on your back" or "regular backpack with a cardboard box inside." I know trays don't lend themselves well to a backpack though, so I doubt I'll ever find anything that I'll go for. If the PACK Go was an inch wider, I'd be able to use it for my SD trays - I don't know if I could finagle a 13" wide tray into a space meant for a 12" wide tray. Not sure how much play is in the case... signalnoise posted:I could go on for pages about storage
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Jun 2, 2015 18:50
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I picked up a Portable Warfare APC the other week from the game store. I really like it, especially for $20. Its a huge improvement over my previous transport method, which consisted of a plastic organizer drawer studded with off-brand blue-tac.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:00
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So I sealed some minis the other day, using spray on urethane ("rustoleum painters touch 2x ultra cover matte clear", to be specific). The humidity must have been a little too high, because I got a sort of sandpapery texture when I was done. I've gotten this before, and tried a couple of different suggestions from the internet (olive oil, spraying some varnish into the cap and then brushing it on). These things make some small difference to the finish, but don't seem to be getting rid of the sandpapery texture completely. I'm starting to think these are fixes for a different problem, i.e a more frosty whitish layer. Someone suggested I brush on some gloss sealant and add matte over the top of that, so right now I'm testing that out. I have three test models now - one I've brushed with olive oil and washed, one I've hit with more matte varnish in liquid form from the cap, one with the gloss sealant and a control. The gloss varnish is still in the drying process for a few more hours, but it doesn't look like it's going to make a big difference in terms of the texture. Why aren't any of these things working for me? Is the sandpapery texture a completely different problem from the white frosting problem some people have on the internet? Does anyone have any more suggestions for this? Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 19:05
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Ignite Memories posted:Is the sandpapery texture a completely different problem from the white frosting problem some people have on the internet?
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Jun 2, 2015 19:14
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Ok, being that sandpaper is actually a thing that is used with varnish regularly, it is very difficult to google this problem. Anyone know what I should do? Here's a picture of the worst offender, seen here next to a boy from the last time this happened a few years ago.  edit: this guy on dakka seems to have recovered from the same problem with spray-on gloss varnish, and if i'm reading this right it worked even when brush-on gloss varnish did not. Does that make sense to anyone else? Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 19:23
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w00tmonger posted:I think this would be the place to ask, but what do people here use for model transport etc. I have a little army transport bag, but want to upgrade to hold more without breakign the bank. KR makes good foam and I like the tray I got with my DZC minis. That said, if you want to be thrifty, their boxes are not a good deal. ~$40 for a cardboard box is, in my humble opinion, money poorly spent. Here’s what I did to save money on transport solitions. TLDR: Buy foam from your favorite company, but don’t buy their containers unless you have no time for research.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:59
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I disagree with Bulbasaur, because I use KR's bags. KR Multicase boxes fit perfectly into KR Multicase bags. This includes fractions, such as fitting 4 KRQ boxes into any bag that fits a single KRU box. Also, that rant he linked ended up not even using KR foam, which has different dimentions than Blu/Gameplus/Sabol dimensions. For someone who says you should only buy if you don't want to research, it's a horribly documented article. Furthermore, these days you can buy a Gameplus bag that holds 14 inches of foam for a whopping 35 bucks. On top of that the metal case won't hold books without rattling around inside the box with your minis. Buy a bag. It holds books and dice and poo poo. It's good. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 20:00
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The thing is too that 'cardboard box' doesn't exactly cover it. It's not a shoebox. You can sit on them and they don't crush. I've been using mine for I guess going on 4 years now and it is only showing a tiny bit of wear around the hinge. It got water dripped on it once from a leaky AC pipe - right onto the cardboard, not onto the exterior bag - and it didn't get wrecked from that either. I grant you it may not be the cheapest storage solution you could possibly find, and you could probably homebuild something that works just as well, but on the other hand the KR stuff works outstanding and is, in my opinion, basically worry-free.
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Jun 2, 2015 20:53
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I just feel containers from foam companies aren't very good deals. Especially the higher end stuff and when you consider alternatives. I almost used KR for my project, but I decided against it because I found larger foam trays for less money. If you’re ok figuring out the dimensions on your own you can find other ways to transport them that do more for less. If you don’t have the time, that’s another thing entirely. I just couldn’t justify paying $30 for an empty box.
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Jun 2, 2015 21:15
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BULBASAUR posted:I just feel containers from foam companies aren't very good deals. Especially the higher end stuff and when you consider alternatives. You should've paid the extra 10 to get foam too. I know it's really unintuitive but KR's prices come out much better if you buy foam AND a box instead of one or the other. Always Buy Bespoke You're right as far as the metal case is concerned, but no one should be buying the metal cases in my opinion
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Jun 2, 2015 21:18
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My concern about using metal cases and gun cases is that it turns something that most people would never steal into something that appears to be a firearm, which has value to the sort of person who smashes opens cars/snatches bags.
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Jun 2, 2015 21:25
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Following on from the Corsair posted earlier on I'm starting a British LRDG Chevrolet CWT 30T truck from 1942. I've been laying down the base coats it tonight and I'm quite happy with how it's coming out although I'm still getting used to how blatantly garish it is. This is intentional as when the LRDG patrols sprayed camo on before setting off from base they were incredibly bright and very much in your face to blend into desert dawn and dusk. The paint then muted right down over the weeks in the desert and bleached out. So that's my next step and I'm up for some advice please on how to get this look if anyone has any ideas. I was thinking about spraying a very thinned transparent layer of desert tan over the while thing to work as a filter, then darker brown pin wash in the crevices before washing the whole thing in AK Interactive dust effects and then loose unset sand/dust pigments where this would normally accumulate. Along with the usual decals, chipping and detailing as usual. What do you all think? Should I be thinking along the lines of a buff oil filter? Thanks for the advice in advance.    
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Jun 2, 2015 21:30
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Ignite Memories posted:Ok, being that sandpaper is actually a thing that is used with varnish regularly, it is very difficult to google this problem. Anyone know what I should do? Maybe the varnish is drying before it hits the model? Not sure how to remediate the problem, but could be the source..
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Jun 2, 2015 21:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:Have you seen the backpack in real life? I was just looking at it, but it looks seriously uncomfortable to wear... I'd love to have a good gaming bag I could use as a backpack, but the choices either seem to be "giant box on your back" or "regular backpack with a cardboard box inside." Myself and JoshTheStampede both have the backpack and it is far from uncomfortable. Padded back shoulders and it's both huge side pockets and a front pocket that can hold a book and other thin items. Here's the good part, there are straps that go from back to front that you can use to shrink the spaces in case you want to pack a half box instead of a full or reduce one of the two box compartments completely to hold bulky items.
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Jun 2, 2015 22:42
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EVIR Gibson posted:Myself and JoshTheStampede both have the backpack and it is far from uncomfortable. Padded back shoulders and it's both huge side pockets and a front pocket that can hold a book and other thin items. I was referring to the AT bag - it sounds like you're talking about the KR, correct?
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Jun 3, 2015 02:41
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About 10 years ago I found my way into the FLGS and got into WarMachine. I found painting to be the most enjoyable part of the game, and since youtube did not really exist in any useful fashion yet, I didn't know much in the way of techniques. Like that you can thin paint. 8 months later the only game store in town, and for about 100 miles, closed. The minis, still never 100% painted went on a shelf. I just decided to get back into painting, I have a strong desire to become good at it. Stopped by a local game store to find that WarMachine prices have doubled, but things like Reaper Bones exists. I just wrapped up my first attempt at painting in 10 years. I needed to cut it off at some point and move on. I spent so much time going back over and cleaning stuff up. I learned a lot in the process of this mini though. My color selections are kinda iffy, since I'm not sure what a lot of these look like yet. (Working with Vallejo GC/MC) This was also my first attempt at a wash, and at painting a matt varnish. (I do have an airbrush) I did it far too heavy and fast I think, all the grey crap on his boots and gloves is varnish. I didn't see a lot of mold lines until partway through the painting, so I know I have to get better at spotting them. His face is blank for this one. My prior attempt looked like a severe burn victim, so I've gotta work on that... I have a ton of bones minis I picked up off ebay, so I may just paint a bunch of faces only then strip them off for practice. So here it is:  C&C is of course welcome and desired.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:09
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KR is so far fantastic. I recently picked up a Kaiser 4 bag with 4 card cases and foam for around $125.00 at the local bits bazaar. The foam had already been plucked a bit and was not ideal for my army so just bought a few new inserts and this should last forever. Their support was terrific for questions I had as the site is terrible and the foam itself is super soft but still keeps things in place unlike my old battlefoam which was basically letting my minis bounce around and grind paint off corners thanks to being stupidly rigid and scratchy.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:11
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parabolic posted:Maybe the varnish is drying before it hits the model? Not sure how to remediate the problem, but could be the source.. I think that might have been it. on the advice of a friend I got a little can of a liquid remover called "goof off" and brushed it very very carefully onto the models. It dissolved the sealant a little and brought this effect way down. I think I'm safe to try another layer of matte when I get a decent day for it.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:47
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Man, I haven't wanted to paint in years and I've just recently gotten the itch (god help my wallet). I have a soul grinder that I never finished, I had only done most of the legs and a base coat of the body. Pictures below:        These pictures are from a long time ago, and unfortunately they got fairly wet in a flood and I'm pretty sure the paint job is irreparable although the plastic itself is still fine. I'm planning on doing a few smaller models before I start on the soul grinder again, but I was wanting some color opinions. Assuming that I have to strip and repaint it, I was thinking of keeping the red the same and its shading, but instead making the metal that has gold tint have a blue tint (like you see on blued steel). I was also thinking for the daemon flesh a greyish blue base, give it a bit of purple wash, and highlight up to almost a pale purple/blue. Would this be too much of a blue color on the model taking into account a blued steel? I realize that I'm throwing things out and I plan on doing some test bits first, but I also want to make sure I'm not completely colorblind. I'm trying to do a group of CSM and the soul grinder as Word Bearers and I'd rather not have to buy a full kit of paints/washes when I don't plan on using 3/4ths of them. All of my paints and supplies are completely gone, so I"m having to start from the ground up. Kinetica fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 04:18
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What's the go-to paint remover in continental Europe (Germany specifically, if anyone knows)? I painted up a test miniature in a Deathwing scheme in preparation for my DV box getting here and it looks like poo poo, so I want to scrub it down and give it a re-do. That and I've seen some decent deals on eBay lately and I'm thinking about buying some poorly-painted stuff for cheap and rescuing it. Edit: and in general for painting tabletop-quality Deathwing: prime white, base brown, then highlight my way up? Or just prime white / base bone / use a wash to get the darker shading? I strongly prefer the creamier-color Deathwing to ones that look too white. Drone fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 11:23
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Drone posted:Edit: and in general for painting tabletop-quality Deathwing: prime white, base brown, then highlight my way up? Or just prime white / base bone / use a wash to get the darker shading? I strongly prefer the creamier-color Deathwing to ones that look too white. Basically, yeah: start light, shade it down, and highlight back up. These are mine:  Couple other shots, of regular GW models: http://i.imgur.com/aGOQ6Y9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MosX9sI.jpg The process is: Prime with Army Painter skeleton-colored spray (I forget the exact name). Wash with GW brown, whatever they're calling Devlan Mud these days. Cover most of the brown with BW bleached bone. Do as many thin layers as you feel like, but probably 2 or 3. Highlight with white. I think I use the Vallejo one, but hey, it's white. Whatever. They don't look amazing, but it's tabletop quality, I'd say, and not a ton of work.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:09
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Drone posted:What's the go-to paint remover in continental Europe (Germany specifically, if anyone knows)? I painted up a test miniature in a Deathwing scheme in preparation for my DV box getting here and it looks like poo poo, so I want to scrub it down and give it a re-do. Denatured alcohol.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:27
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Forums Terrorist posted:Denatured alcohol. Googling it a bit in German, people are also apparently recommending brake fluid (really?). Stick in a Tupperware container, let sit over night, work it over with a toothbrush later.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:42
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People in this thread recommend brake fluid...I wouldn't use it myself. You can get isopropyl alcohol in 5 liter jugs too.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:48
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The cheapest place I have found isopropyl is in Filipino grocers.
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Jun 3, 2015 15:09
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Drone posted:What's the go-to paint remover in continental Europe (Germany specifically, if anyone knows)? I painted up a test miniature in a Deathwing scheme in preparation for my DV box getting here and it looks like poo poo, so I want to scrub it down and give it a re-do. Another option is to coat/base in brown, do a 45 degree spray of bone, then an 90 degree spray from the top in white (zenithal.) There isn't a lot of sense in priming white if you are just going to coat it all in brown after. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyrDWHYLGjo
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Jun 3, 2015 15:19
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berzerkmonkey posted:Another option is to coat/base in brown, do a 45 degree spray of bone, then an 90 degree spray from the top in white (zenithal.) There isn't a lot of sense in priming white if you are just going to coat it all in brown after. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyrDWHYLGjo I don't own an airbrush unfortunately. Unless a normal spray primer can from the hardware store is precise enough for stuff like this.. I gave it a shot once and the result turned out pretty poor as the zenithal gradient was much too dramatic.
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Jun 3, 2015 15:24
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Drone posted:I don't own an airbrush unfortunately. Unless a normal spray primer can from the hardware store is precise enough for stuff like this.. I gave it a shot once and the result turned out pretty poor as the zenithal gradient was much too dramatic. Suck your paint through a straw and blow it out onto your model. If it was good enough for stone age Warhams, it should be good enough for you! 
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Jun 3, 2015 16:25
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krushgroove posted:People in this thread recommend brake fluid...I wouldn't use it myself. You can get isopropyl alcohol in 5 liter jugs too.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:46
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SRM posted:Isn't the go-to in Europe like... Fairy Power Spray or something? If you bought Fairy Power Spray up to about summer of last year, it's good for stripping paint, but a recent formulation change made it only good for cleaning stuff around your house, which sucks. So no one uses it any more. Dettol is usually the first thing people suggest, but it makes your models stink for ages. I'm going to try a 5 liter bottle of isopropyl alcohol (or IPA, and not the beer) after I try some methylated spirits (AKA denatured alcohol in the US). Also, and not to stop any discussion of this sort of thing, this is mostly covered in the OP: quote:Stripping models Just want to encourage people coming back or new to painting that the OP does have tons of info in it that will probably answer 70-80% of your questions 
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Jun 3, 2015 17:00
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Having the trays come out of the side seems smarter in every way. When they go in veritcally, top to bottom, you must remove all the upper trays to get to the bottom, it's pretty crappy. That being said, Sabol cases are still perdy cool. Give Neil a call, tell him you want a case: http://www.thewarstore.com/product6140.html
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Jun 3, 2015 21:02
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Post 9-11 User posted:Having the trays come out of the side seems smarter in every way. When they go in veritcally, top to bottom, you must remove all the upper trays to get to the bottom, it's pretty crappy.
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Jun 3, 2015 21:58
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Does anyone have a product link to this item? It's been shown a lot but I haven't found where to buy one.
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Jun 3, 2015 22:11
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Sabol cases are nothing but GamePlus/Blu foam that's not as pretty
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Jun 3, 2015 22:33
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Unzip and Attack posted:Does anyone have a product link to this item? It's been shown a lot but I haven't found where to buy one. Believe this blog post will help.
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Jun 3, 2015 22:40
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No I don't think this blog post links the item either.
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Jun 3, 2015 22:44
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Unzip and Attack posted:Does anyone have a product link to this item? It's been shown a lot but I haven't found where to buy one. That exact case is this: http://www.gemsondisplay.com/shopexd.asp?id=683 I should note they have other less fancy cases, soft and such, that are less expensive and work in the same way with the same trays.
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Jun 3, 2015 22:50
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Ahhh, duh - didn't catch that the cases are from the same site as the trays. Cheers! I went with a couple soft cases - at $15 that's a pretty easy solution.
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Jun 3, 2015 22:56
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