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Found a Home Depot gift card in my trunk, I think it was a freebie thrown in by the dealer when I bought my car. Turns out to have $100 on it. I'm reasonably well set for tools, etc. But figured this'd be an interesting question: What would you buy with it?
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Jun 4, 2015 16:48
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Concrete question: I am making a 26x30 garage and city specifications require a 24" deep 4" wide rat wall around the perimeter of the pad. A contractor I called suggested 48" deep 12" wide due to size of garage, the fact that we're in Michigan and wanting to go below the frost line, and that I want to go overspec for a 6" slab (largely due to wanting a car lift, but I'm thinking I might just go with 4" (minimum required) and do a sonatube footing for the lift at a later date). Also, due to a few websites I've seen ([url]http://www.concreteconstruction.net/concrete-slabs-and-floors/better-garage-floors.aspx]this is one of them[/url]), recommends "ACI goes further and recommends 4500-psi concrete for garages in the northern half of the country." and air-entrained concrete. The contractor suggested 4000-psi fiber-reinforced concrete instead for the slab. Thoughts?
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Jun 4, 2015 16:58
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Phanatic posted:Found a Home Depot gift card in my trunk, I think it was a freebie thrown in by the dealer when I bought my car. Turns out to have $100 on it. Half of a Milwaukee 18v impact wrench.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:21
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Does anybody here know about riding mowers? They do have a lawn equipment thread over in AI that I know of.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:16
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Can anyone recommend me books on house building? Mostly geared towards building to code without being loving boring? I'm interested in learning more about the process/potentially trying it myself and while I know some "things" I would like to know more. My main interest is the structure (the proper way to build walls etc) if that makes any sense.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:59
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kid sinister posted:They do have a lawn equipment thread over in AI that I know of. . . . OK, I think I just found it. That was unexpected.
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Jun 4, 2015 19:03
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Fire Storm posted:Concrete question: I am making a 26x30 garage and city specifications require a 24" deep 4" wide rat wall around the perimeter of the pad. A contractor I called suggested 48" deep 12" wide due to size of garage, the fact that we're in Michigan and wanting to go below the frost line, and that I want to go overspec for a 6" slab (largely due to wanting a car lift, but I'm thinking I might just go with 4" (minimum required) and do a sonatube footing for the lift at a later date). If your garage is reasonably well insulated, and/or heated, you can give your footings a little insulated skirt, sticking out two feet and R-5, and effectively turn that 24" deep footing into something almost as good as 48". Four feet of R-10, and it'll be better than 48" deep. (citation) Similarly, if you have a well insulated or heated garage, the frost/thaw cycle potential that prompts higher strength concrete becomes less important (although if you're in northern Minnesota you'd need an awful lot of insulation to avoid freezing entirely).
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Jun 4, 2015 19:33
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Sylink posted:Can anyone recommend me books on house building? Mostly geared towards building to code without being loving boring? I found Housebuilding: A Do-It-Yourself Guide to be pretty helpful when I was working on designs for my workshop. It does a good job of explaining the various ways to design a given component and how things fit together. You'll still need to read the code to make certain your design meets the minimum standards, though. And that's always gonna be kinda tedious. At least a proper book will give you the vocabulary you need to understand what the code is talking about.
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Jun 4, 2015 20:08
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What are some ways to improve the natural lighting (or lighting in general) in a below-ground apartment unit? I recently moved into an apartment in a building that used to be an old factory, and we're in the basement so our only windows look like this-  You can't tell from the pictures but they're frosted glass, the first set goes out to a side street and the second set is right next to another building. The unit is pretty dark during the day with the lights off, moreso than anywhere else I've lived, and the light from the fixtures feels kind of harsh for lack of a better word. My fiancee was also complaining about "mildew smell" the other day (it's been raining a lot recently), my landlord says the unit is set up so any rainwater runs into special trenches that don't flood our unit but I'm sure this isn't the last time she'll complain about the place smelling like mildew. Any suggestions on things I could change in the unit to get more light in, or make the already-existing light feel better? My Rube Goldberg-tinkering fantasy was to rig up mirrors close to the windows to reflect light in (especially with the recessed setting on the first set) but a better first step might just be to get out there with some Windex 
C-Euro fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 20:51
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Zhentar posted:If your garage is reasonably well insulated, and/or heated, you can give your footings a little insulated skirt, sticking out two feet and R-5, and effectively turn that 24" deep footing into something almost as good as 48". Four feet of R-10, and it'll be better than 48" deep. (citation) OK, the second image on that page has a footing that is just a plate with a wall on it. Is that preferred over a massive mass of concrete? Also, what about insulation under the concrete slab? I'll eventually have heat in this garage, but not for the first 3-5 years.
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Jun 4, 2015 21:13
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Figure 2 on that page is just a retaining wall. This document shows the two main slab on grade foundation options. For insulating under the slab... it depends. If you plan on radiant heat with tubing in the slab, sub slab insulation is basically required. If you're heating to normal conditioned space (like 70 degrees), there's a non trivial heat loss through the slab and it's cost effective to put in at least R-10 under the slab, but it's hardly bleeding money of heat loss (you definitely want the slab edge well insulated, though). A normal garage 50 degrees, and the small temperature delta means the small heat loss in winter is substantially offset by the summer cooling, and insulation isn't really important. For an unconditioned garage, you definitely don't want sub slab insulation; the ground coupling will moderate temperatures significantly (only downside is very high humidity in the summer).
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Jun 4, 2015 21:59
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Thank you. I hope this is my last question for a while, but is it stupid to use Fox Blocks for the footing and just plain old rigid foam sheets for in-ground insulation? I mean, other than cost.
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Jun 6, 2015 02:54
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GUTTER QUESTION: I'm having gutters installed on my home and had a salesman for LeafGuard come out for an estimate. I was quoted $8300 for 257 ft (around $32/ft) which is pretty expensive, but if it's going to work well and for a long time, then it seems worth it to me. My question is, are LeafGuard gutters worthwhile? I've read some negative reviews online, but also some positive ones. And the Consumer Reports article's comparison of different types of gutters didn't seem to be very in-depth. Any advice on gutters would be greatly appreciated, goons. e: I don't have any pine trees around, but quite a few leafy trees. I almost never get snow and ice, too. GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 6, 2015 21:36
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GOD IS BED posted:GUTTER QUESTION: Holy cow. I did my whole house in a metal guard product from Lowes for $150 in a few afternoons. I bought like 6 different kinds to try and liked these best http://m.lowes.com/pd/InvisaFlow-Galvanized-Steel-Gutter-Guard/50031816
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Jun 6, 2015 21:54
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GOD IS BED posted:My question is, are LeafGuard gutters worthwhile? I wouldn't get LeafGuard gutters, and certainly not for that much. They aren't as effective at catching water in very heavy rains (which of course is when it's most important), and, to paraphrase Douglas Adams, "The major difference between a thing that needs to be cleaned and a thing that does not ever need to be cleaned is that when a thing that doesn't ever need to be cleaned needs to be cleaned it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or clean"
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Jun 6, 2015 22:29
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For $8000 you could just have your gutters replaced entirely any time they clog up for like a decade.
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Jun 6, 2015 23:59
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I am building something that needs to receive an object that must be screwed on. The screw has a flat bottom. Does that imply that the object is intended to be secured via a nut at the end of the screw?
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Jun 7, 2015 00:52
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There are bolts, which have usually have flat bottoms and want nuts; sheet metal screws which are pointy and don't want nuts; and wood screws, which are pointy and don't want nuts. There are probably also other things that I haven't used before. Give us some more details of your use case? Photos maybe?
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Jun 7, 2015 01:08
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Subyng posted:I am building something that needs to receive an object that must be screwed on. The screw has a flat bottom. Does that imply that the object is intended to be secured via a nut at the end of the screw?  sex joke
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Jun 7, 2015 01:08
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slap me silly posted:want nuts. Photos maybe? XmasGiftFromWife posted:
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Jun 7, 2015 01:14
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Thanks, guys! I really appreciate the advice! I'm definitely gonna look for something cheaper.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:14
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I can't really disclose the details but it sounds like nuts are what I need. Thanks.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:18
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Subyng posted:I can't really disclose the details but it sounds like nuts are what I need. Thanks. Or, you could tap a hole in the thing that is being screwed into that matches the threads on the screw.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:24
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Subyng posted:I can't really disclose the details but it sounds like nuts are what I need. Thanks. Your original description sucks. What are you trying to do? I used to work for a fastener company in college. There are tons of different screws and nuts out there. I could tell you exactly what nut you'd need for your situation if you'd give a better description.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:42
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Is there a lawn care thread? Should there be a lawn care/landscaping thread? We have our first house and has a nice big backyard, backed up by a bit of protected woodland (meaning it will forever get shade and not grow grass that well) and don't even know where to begin on what the gently caress to do with it. It'd be nice to bounce ideas off of people and this seems to be the only thread to do that right now.
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Jun 7, 2015 16:24
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BonoMan posted:Is there a lawn care thread? Should there be a lawn care/landscaping thread? We have our first house and has a nice big backyard, backed up by a bit of protected woodland (meaning it will forever get shade and not grow grass that well) and don't even know where to begin on what the gently caress to do with it. It'd be nice to bounce ideas off of people and this seems to be the only thread to do that right now. Hostas and ivy.
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Jun 7, 2015 16:56
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BonoMan posted:Is there a lawn care thread? Should there be a lawn care/landscaping thread? We have our first house and has a nice big backyard, backed up by a bit of protected woodland (meaning it will forever get shade and not grow grass that well) and don't even know where to begin on what the gently caress to do with it. It'd be nice to bounce ideas off of people and this seems to be the only thread to do that right now. We do have a veggies thread and a general plant thread here in DIY. I'd try the second one. I'm on my phone, otherwise I'd post some links. XmasGiftFromWife posted:Hostas and ivy. gently caress ivy. In 10-15 years, there will be nothing but ivy. That stuff takes over and can attach itself to any surface. A general rule to remember before planting anything as invasive as ivy is that plants don't obey property lines. Your neighbors will thank you.
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Jun 7, 2015 17:24
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Quick question about sealing grout. I've looked at reviews on HomeDepot and Lowe's and all of them are full of people bitching about it discoloring tile. Are there any good products for this? or should I just let my grout discolor and re-color later?
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Jun 7, 2015 17:39
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Toilet Trip Report: Finally had time yesterday to tackle this and it was big success! Here's what I found once I got the toilet up:   Looks like the wax ring was the issue. Replaced it with one of those silicone ones and 24 hours later, no leaks.  Really easy project and I saved myself $200. Thanks for the advice! 
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Jun 7, 2015 18:48
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BonoMan posted:Is there a lawn care thread? Should there be a lawn care/landscaping thread? We have our first house and has a nice big backyard, backed up by a bit of protected woodland (meaning it will forever get shade and not grow grass that well) and don't even know where to begin on what the gently caress to do with it. It'd be nice to bounce ideas off of people and this seems to be the only thread to do that right now. Forums at aroundtheyard.com, you can go as shallow or as batshit deep as you want to.
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Jun 7, 2015 20:09
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GOD IS BED posted:GUTTER QUESTION: Holy crap, that's expensive. And yes, eventually, your gutters will fill with silt that will be nearly impossible to clean out. I have been testing these on my garage since last fall & so far, they work great (foam gutter inserts): https://www.bigrocksupply.com/store...AyH0aAsxP8P8HAQ They're available at big box places like Lowe's & Costco & can be installed quickly without tools. If you need new gutters, go seamless. Guy comes out with a roll of aluminum & a former mounted in his van. I've had 'em about ten years now, with mature ash trees & nasty winters. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 04:49
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stuxracer posted:Quick question about sealing grout. At lowes, I'm hearing a lot of good things about the Miracle brand sealer. The dupont sealer is the one that turns colors. http://www.lowes.com/pd_643490-71217-SE+EN+QT+6-1_1z11oi0__?productId=50343106&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1 You can get it in gallon size containers if you chat with the commercial sales person.
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Jun 8, 2015 05:02
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Something is living under my house in Austin, TX. I wouldn't mind, except they're keeping my dog up, and then my dog is waking me up with curious barks and sniffing. How can I figure out what it is, and what to do about it?
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Jun 8, 2015 18:02
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It's probably rattlesnakes. No, seriously.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:20
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Liberally apply critter ridder to chase off your opossum.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:13
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Corla Plankun posted:Something is living under my house in Austin, TX. I wouldn't mind, except they're keeping my dog up, and then my dog is waking me up with curious barks and sniffing. Crawl up under there with a gun  Do you have holes allowing access, crawlspace, basement? Plug the holes. Pay a professional to poke around down there and capture/kill whatever vermin are present. Or do it yourself, but no blaming me for any death that occurs.
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Jun 8, 2015 23:55
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I have a problem with my downstairs shower. It has separate handles for hot and cold, and the hot will never turn off all the way. It'll reach a point where the resistance goes up a little bit, but from there it will just turn and turn forever. It doesn't ever actually get hard to turn, just a little bit harder. There's a sweet spot where the showerhead will stop dripping, but it's difficult to find and I don't usually bother. Is this just a matter of a worn out washer that needs to be replaced, or is it a bigger problem than that?
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Jun 9, 2015 02:53
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The Gardenator posted:At lowes, I'm hearing a lot of good things about the Miracle brand sealer. The dupont sealer is the one that turns colors.
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Jun 9, 2015 03:21
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stubblyhead just reminded me of a long-standing problem I've had with my shower... We've got a pretty normal single-knob mixing valve. In theory, when the knob is pointed at a spot, it should be a certain temperature assuming the source water is constant and pipes are warmed up, and whatever. That's nowhere near the case. "Off" is at about 6 o'clock and turns counter-clockwise to 12. If I slowly turn it through that range it's very cold until the very end at which point it gets very hot. If I then back it off from 12 back to ~3 it slowly cools down to a manageable temperature. When I pass ~3 is goes completely cold again. If I then try to make it a little bit hotter, it stays cold all the way up to 12 until it goes uber-hot again. I've replaced the mixer valve cartridge once, same behavior. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, nothing. Same behavior for shower or tub spout. Pressure is always normal and fairly constant. At the sink a few feet away, hot/cold work exactly as expected, so I don't think it's supply side. I don't have the model number, but it's an american standard that looks like this: http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/american-standard-berwick-shower-rough-in-valves-r110ss-polished-chrome/p50843 Yes, I've tried waiting a really long time between turning the knob a little and seeing a difference. I've been assuming that the anti-scold mechanism in the mixer is a crap design and I'm destined to suffer through it unless I want to remove some tile and actually replace the entire valve assembly. Any ideas?
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Jun 9, 2015 14:43
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Gounads posted:Any ideas? The only thing that comes to mind is that your handle (or the setup in general) has some kind of "lag" going on when you change directions. Like, imagine that when you change directions, the handle has to rotate through 45° before it starts actually changing the mix ratio. Once it's cleared that 45° of "nothing", it should have a 1:1 ratio of degrees turned to change in mix ratio. But when you turn around, there's again that 45° lag before anything actually changes. Bottom line is replace it all though, I'd say.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:01
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