|
Seeing as purpleheart just came up, I may as well post my first real foray into woodworking. I'm kind of completely inexperienced with this whole thing, but I think it came out all right. Neck is red oak, with a purpleheart fretboard and pickup holder. Intonation and action are both really good, so it's a playable instrument. Sounds quite good through an amplifier - could definitely do better on the next few, as I've got a bunch of cigar boxes left over.  Any suggestions for improvement for future projects? I've wanted to do more woodworking, and making instruments is something I'm enjoying quite a bit.
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 04:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:46 |
|
|
Hedningen posted:Any suggestions for improvement for future projects? I've wanted to do more woodworking, and making instruments is something I'm enjoying quite a bit. Looks good. My third was the one that really crossed the line into very playable instrument. I think mostly it was that I angled the neck about 2 degrees for a consistent string height, really low action, all wood box (no paper), and bone nut and bridge. It was still neck heavy though. Kinda plain but plays very well.  Uke I made in a Mcnally style. Surprisingly loud for such a thin box. Very folksy looking.  
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 08:04
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:Heeeey I need some help. What kind of drums use plywood for heads? Also that looks very similar to cabinet grade plywood to me which should be available elsewhere unless you live somewhere weird. If I'm wrong it still doesn't look that special.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 15:02
|
|
|
Sylink posted:What kind of drums use plywood for heads? The short answer is that I build wood-faced drums, like cajons but different. I'm down in Louisiana and the humidity makes this stuff go bananas pretty quickly, so everyone has switched to carrying MDF-core, which doesn't work for what I need. That's why I thought to post, though, surely this stuff is common when you aren't in a swamp.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 15:08
|
|
|
This is the cherry cabinet plywood I have, same 3 cores but the veneer is thicker - EDIT: I guess the answer is someone could probably ship wood to you but dang thats pricy. I'm sure a real business somewhere would be able to do it, too. Sylink fucked around with this message at 15:30 on May 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 15:23
|
|
|
Sylink posted:EDIT: I guess the answer is someone could probably ship wood to you but dang thats pricy. I'm sure a real business somewhere would be able to do it, too. Yeah, even if they don't stock it as a general product any more they can probably order you a few sheets. It's not like they cut off contact with their suppliers or anything.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 15:51
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:The short answer is that I build wood-faced drums, like cajons but different. I'm down in Louisiana and the humidity makes this stuff go bananas pretty quickly, so everyone has switched to carrying MDF-core, which doesn't work for what I need. That's why I thought to post, though, surely this stuff is common when you aren't in a swamp. This company ships and has an excellent reputation. I didn't look to see if it is the correct # of ply. http://www.walllumber.com/fur.asp
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 18:53
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:The short answer is that I build wood-faced drums, like cajons but different. I'm down in Louisiana and the humidity makes this stuff go bananas pretty quickly, so everyone has switched to carrying MDF-core, which doesn't work for what I need. That's why I thought to post, though, surely this stuff is common when you aren't in a swamp. Baltic birch was long regarded as the best plywood you could get anywhere, literally no voids. Sheets approx. 5x5', which I think is 150cmm square? Idk if they even produce it in a 1/4" since it's metric, but I also don't know why you'd rule birch out but go for maple since they are virtually interchangeable. I agree with you on principle about mdf-anything, which is satanic and should be avoided if possible. e. looksl ike wormil answered whether it's available in 1/4" sheets
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 18:54
|
|
|
Thanks for the leads. We have literally one wood yard in a 2 hour radius, and they've assured me that after I buy the last of this bundle of Ash, there will be no more, and they can't get it. I do Baltic for the shells, and I love it in 1/2", it just doesn't work for the faces. A 4x8 sheet of that Cherry 1/4" is worth around $100 to me, so maybe Wormil's guy can cut up a special order for me and throw it on a trucky trailer.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 23:12
|
|
|
1/4" is 6.35mm, so unless you're building something that requires sub mm accuracy, there isn't a real difference between it and 6mm.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 23:14
|
|
|
Yeah I'm at 1/4" nom. Usually closer to .2". Why wood measurements so silly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
iwannabebobdylan posted:Yeah I'm at 1/4" nom. Usually closer to .2". Why wood measurements so silly? They want to be like the rest of the industrial world. .5" pipe? .84" OD .5" Conduit? .815" OD .25" Acrylic? .236" (yes I know the pipe sizes are based on the ID, doesn't make it any less annoying to work with)
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
For anyone that cares, baltic birch is typically undersized by 1/32 or so, when I cut dadoes for it using 3/4" birch I have to use an undersized router bit or adjust the saw dado accordingly
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2015 01:32
|
|
|
I've seen a few versions of a transforming coffee table, particularly one that grows from knee-height to normal table height without looking stupid. Is there a DIY kit for something like this? I need to replace a coffee table in a small space, so it's optimal if it does double duty (or more). Any tips appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2015 07:32
|
|
|
Crossposting from the Projects thread:Trabant posted:Made a Bluetooth/3.5mm line-in speaker: The reclaimed longleaf pine looks great but was so full of resin that the sawdust was like gum. Smelled fantastic though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 05:41
|
|
|
Another shot of progress on the tabletop. I'm really enjoying how this is coming together even if it is going to require a heap of sanding and filing to finish it properly. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 07:34
|
|
|
Cobalt60 posted:I've seen a few versions of a transforming coffee table, particularly one that grows from knee-height to normal table height without looking stupid. You can get the lift here- http://www.rockler.com/lift-up-table-mechanism
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 12:16
|
|
|
Finished my Sellers style mallet last night. Just needs some tung oil and I guess I'll put some wax on it or something. From this:  To this:  Album: http://imgur.com/a/ItHNn
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 15:08
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:Finished my Sellers style mallet last night. Just needs some tung oil and I guess I'll put some wax on it or something. Nice, just watched the video on that the other night, it's on my list. Not sure where I can get 12/4 stock around here though, gotta make some calls. I did just make his dovetail template last night though. Easy to make, works well. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
bimmian posted:Nice, just watched the video on that the other night, it's on my list. Not sure where I can get 12/4 stock around here though, gotta make some calls. Interesting, I hadn't seen that one before. Here's a finished pic of the mallet with some tung oil and beeswax/orange oil:  The album in my last post has a bunch more pictures of the finished look too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 04:55
|
|
|
What's it weigh?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 16:32
|
|
|
bimmian posted:What's it weigh? It's fairly hefty but I don't have a scale so I couldn't say exactly
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
Any kind of decent hand planes rarely show up on my local craigslist, but today is a little different...  waiting to hear from this guy, appears to be selling off his whole workshop.  Another ad with a #45 for $100, only one cutter though. Not sure how good of a price that is, would be a neat one to have though. He also has a #7 in what looks to be good shape for $50. This guy is about 2 miles from my work so I'll probably snag that this evening.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 20:14
|
|
|
bimmian posted:Any kind of decent hand planes rarely show up on my local craigslist, but today is a little different... Looks like you hit the motherlode.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 20:20
|
|
|
I have several slabs that I'd like to level using the router sled method, and am basically planning to put something simple together like is done in this Wood Whisperer video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0 The problem is that I don't have a workbench, let alone a known flat one. So I am thinking of building something on the cheap to serve the purpose for the time being. Am I right in thinking that a torsion box is probably the least expensive option? Or would I be better served by making a solid top from construction grade 2x6s and flattening that with the sled first? Someone on here must have faced this dilemma before and be able to point me in the right direction. I have access to a pretty full set of shop tools, just not at my house. That shop has some large assembly tables but I don't think any of them are known to be perfectly flat reference surfaces. Edit: Maybe I should make this cheap bench to start? I really don't care if it only lasts a year or two before I find myself needing something better. armorer fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jun 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 14:36
|
|
|
You do not need a flat surface to flatten one side necessarily. As long as you sled cuts everything in the same plane you will end up with a flat surface that you can then turn over and flatten the other side, if needed. Since the slap is not straight to begin with, I would make the sled or however you want to do it and secure it whatever you have for a work surface and shim the sled up to be level (using a level to determine this...). Then align the slab with shims based on the curvature/warping of the slab such that you will be able to flatten with the least amount of material removed (the same way you would analyze a board before throwing it across a jointer) and prop it up under you sled with shims and possibly a hot glue gun or clamps or benchdogs or whatever to keep it fixed. Now you can run the sled assuming both items are fixed in position and you will get a flat surface. Then repeat by turning the slab over and doing some aligning to get both faces parallel. Its doable though maybe slightly more difficult without a torsion box/assembly table or perfect surface.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 16:26
|
|
|
Sylink posted:You do not need a flat surface to flatten one side necessarily. As long as you sled cuts everything in the same plane you will end up with a flat surface that you can then turn over and flatten the other side, if needed. True, I could get one flat edge that way. Getting both edges flat and parallel is significantly harder though if my work surface is not flat. I will get enough use out of a flat work surface that I think I may as well make one first though. I am currently scanning through nearby craigslist listings for a usable workbench that I might be able to just flatten the top of and then use. Edit: A guy an hour away is selling a 36"x 52" table with a 2" thick hard maple top and two vises for $150. Legs are steel, and look reasonably sturdy from the photos. That seems like a good price to me, since it will fit my purposes and is cheaper than anything comparable I could build. I think I'll just get that and flatten it. armorer fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jun 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 18:17
|
|
|
Posting again because slightly different question - Did I do rather well with this bench purchase? The 2" thick maple top is not in great shape on its surface, but it looks like if I take it down about 0.25" I'll have a nice fresh and flat surface, so that meets my needs pretty well. The steel legs are not as heavy as I would like, but the bench was solid and rigid enough with the top attached. (I had to take everything apart to get it into my basement, and so that I can clean it up and repaint it.) The real win though I think is that it came with 2 "Morgan 10A" vises that are in good shape. They have some surface rust, but nothing I can't clean off and they work great. I looked briefly on ebay and found one such vise in marginally better condition going for $125. Given that I paid $150 for the whole thing, I feel like I got something of a steal. Edit: VVVV - Fair enough - it exceeds my needs, and cost less than it would have cost me to make something comparable by a long shot. So to your point it was a great purchase for me. armorer fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jun 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 13:37
|
|
|
armorer posted:Posting again because slightly different question - Did I do rather well with this bench purchase? If you are happy with it, then yes, you did well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 13:43
|
|
|
After 4 years of woodworking I finally got a jointer. Scored a 6" delta off of craigslist yesterday. One problem is it needs a thumb lever on the release for the infeed table. And I left the loving blade guard sitting in the guys shop. It's an hour and half drive each way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 13:49
|
|
|
Nice find. I just inherited some Delta tools and its so nice to have actual high quality items now. A jointer is still on my list. On the lookout for a lathe too and then my "big tool" needs are complete (haha yeah right). Maybe he will mail it to you! Worth a shot. Could offer to paypal the mail fees.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 15:13
|
|
|
I saw a Unisaw on ebay yesterday in the Seattle area for 400.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 15:55
|
|
|
mds2 posted:After 4 years of woodworking I finally got a jointer. Scored a 6" delta off of craigslist yesterday. One problem is it needs a thumb lever on the release for the infeed table. And I left the loving blade guard sitting in the guys shop. It's an hour and half drive each way. Not worth the drive/effort imo, you can make a guard easily enough.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 16:19
|
|
|
BUGS OF SPRING posted:Nice find. I just inherited some Delta tools and its so nice to have actual high quality items now. A jointer is still on my list. On the lookout for a lathe too and then my "big tool" needs are complete (haha yeah right). I've tried contacting him twice to no avail. I even offered to mail him a check to cover mailing it in a USPS flat rate box. Oh well. Maybe I can find one online. Or ill make one, but i'd like to have the factory one if possible. A lathe is the last "big tool" on my list too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 16:38
|
|
|
I've noticed woodworkers on craigslist, if not in general, tend to be off the grid and odds are the guy destroyed his phone and cut his power cables when you left or something.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 16:52
|
|
|
mds2 posted:I've tried contacting him twice to no avail. I even offered to mail him a check to cover mailing it in a USPS flat rate box. Oh well. Maybe I can find one online. Or ill make one, but i'd like to have the factory one if possible. Hell go to town, laminate something pretty, stick a chunk of dowel in the thin end and attach a spring. e. Sylink posted:I've noticed woodworkers on craigslist, if not in general, tend to be off the grid and odds are the guy destroyed his phone and cut his power cables when you left or something. Also, this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 19:07
|
|
|
Sylink posted:I've noticed woodworkers on craigslist, if not in general, tend to be off the grid and odds are the guy destroyed his phone and cut his power cables when you left or something. Pretty much. He replied to 20 emails in a row in about 2 minutes each time. He did say he was moving to Arizona, so maybe he did after I left.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
armorer posted:Did I do rather well with this bench purchase? Never, never, never, ask after the fact. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 23:21
|
|
|
Bench is finally built. Also mounted my big fuckoff eclipse vise. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 14:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:46 |
|
|
Is there a "best" choice for what wood I should use to line these vise jaws? Or should I just use whatever hardwood scrap I have available?
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 15:48
|
|