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Sauer posted:Tomorrow the fun will start. I want to make this Yak look like its been operating out of lovely Soviet dirt fields for months so the finish is going to be beat up and filthy. The hot parts of the Yak and access panels were skinned in aluminum and I'll be shooting Alclad over those, but the rest of it was covered in plywood and fabric. Those bit will be shot with yellowish/beige colour that looks pretty close to the nitro-putty they primed those surfaces with. Its going to be so much masking two make those two distinct areas. Over top of that will be a salt chipped green and black paint job. Did some tests with a bit of scrap sprue and salt chipping looks exactly like what I want. Going to have to think about how I'm going to shade some variation on to the wing surfaces given that they're completely smooth. Probably very heavily thinned streaks of lighter and darker shades of the main colors to add some depth, dunno yet. If you stick to that plan then it's going to look wicked. For the last step I would try small dots of oil paint smoothed out in the direction of flight with spirit over gloss varnish to give a nice filtered variation. Blue, green, ochre and buff might work well.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:11
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Sauer posted:Tomorrow the fun will start... Alternatively there will be 94% ambient humidity. My moisture trap tried its best but I got about 10 minutes into a job and pssssttt.... water coming out of the line. Don't feel to bad since the monster dumpster sized air compressors we use at work also poo poo the bed part way through the day. Their air dryers were filling up with waste water faster than they could dump it. Glad it was just a practice worksheet. Remember, if you own an airbrush you are morally obligated to learn how to paint sick skulls and flames on poo poo. You never know when being able to paint wicked skulls will get you out of a shanking.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:38
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Sauer posted:Alternatively there will be 94% ambient humidity. My moisture trap tried its best but I got about 10 minutes into a job and pssssttt.... water coming out of the line. Don't feel to bad since the monster dumpster sized air compressors we use at work also poo poo the bed part way through the day. Their air dryers were filling up with waste water faster than they could dump it. Where the gently caress do you live the Congo?
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Jun 5, 2015 22:32
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big_g posted:Where the gently caress do you live the Congo? Based off the humidity description alone I'm gonna wager heavily on Florida.
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Jun 5, 2015 22:36
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big_g posted:Where the gently caress do you live the Congo? We get that kind of weather near Houston quite a bit.
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Jun 5, 2015 22:55
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everythingWasBees posted:We get that kind of weather near Houston quite a bit. Christ!...you should move some where civilised. big_g fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 23:48
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Early summer in Montreal. We get loads of rain all day long and then the sun comes out for a little bit and turns it all into water vapor.
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Jun 6, 2015 01:51
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Maybe it is historically correct, but those gray and white stripes just make me think it is a German soldier who is confused about which side of the gas chamber he should be on.
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Jun 6, 2015 02:07
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SkunkDuster posted:Maybe it is historically correct, but those gray and white stripes just make me think it is a German soldier who is confused about which side of the gas chamber he should be on. I laughed way too hard at this. And I can't unsee it.
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Jun 6, 2015 04:24
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Blue Footed Booby posted:I laughed way too hard at this. And I can't unsee it. I thought he was showing up to work in his pajamas.
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Jun 6, 2015 04:38
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Just a heads up for anyone getting the Bandai AT-ST kit; DO NOT USE ENAMELS OR ENAMEL THINNERS ON IT!!! Apparently they used a slightly different formula for the plastic in it, since it needed to be slightly stronger to support itself on its legs, and enamels and enamel thinners will attack the plastic and make it extremely brittle. I didn't experience the issue myself, but many modellers are reporting the model crumbling in the hands after enamels/thinners were applied. So far it seems like the other Bandai SW kits are fine with enamels, it's just the AT-ST affected.
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Jun 6, 2015 10:04
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Oh, and an interesting story I thought I'd pass on to you guys. In the garage kit world, recasting is a huge problem. Sculptors and casters make very small profits on their work, and that profit can be eliminated if some 3rd party recasts their work and sells it for a quarter of the price. Typically though it was just recasters they had to worry about. Recently I purchased a kit of a Mushroom Goblin, from Industria Mechanika. It only recently came out, but the owner has already had to deal with some recasters. And now cut to the other day, when I watch the trailer for the new Bard's Tale videogame, and what do I see, but two little baddies that look an awful lot like the Mushroom Goblin. I talked to the owner there, and he's certainly not had any contact with the devs of the game, and he's 90% sure neither has the concept artist for the piece. So now he's got to worry about digital media scooping his designs as well. Mushroom Goblin Sculpt  Goblins from Bard's Tale trailer: 
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Jun 6, 2015 10:18
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I just built the Tamiya 1/48 Panzer 38(t) kit: All in all it was a pleasure, one of the easiest tank models I've built this far. Now I just have to paint it! 
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Jun 6, 2015 17:55
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lilljonas posted:I just built the Tamiya 1/48 Panzer 38(t) kit: If it's anything like your smaller scale stuff it'll be fantastic. Really looking forward to seeing it done. Make sure to post plenty of WIP shots.
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Jun 6, 2015 19:44
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big_g posted:If it's anything like your smaller scale stuff it'll be fantastic. Really looking forward to seeing it done. Make sure to post plenty of WIP shots. Thanks. It's for wargaming, so I'll probably just douse it in panzer grey and see what comes out. Should be really fun though! And the Bf 109 kit looks super tempting on the floor next to my hobby table, I can really see the appeal of airplane kits now. But first I need to paint a bunch of boring German infantrymen, so maybe I'll tackle it in July or so.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:33
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Just finished shooting a ton of Alclad and I sort of wish lacquer paints were more readily available around here in the colours I want. Its toxic as all hell, makes you see purple unicorns and green faeries, and respirator filters get expensive after a while but lacquers go down so thin and so colour dense. They dry nearly instantly and leave an indestructible finish. Your airbrush will also be squeaky clean afterwards since lacquer thinner seems to eat everything. Its started dissolving the dollar store plastic shot glasses I use as my dump/mixing pots. Anyone else get super nervous when peeling off your masks. Keep freaking out that paint bled or I missed a spot and now its all ruined, RUINED!! Edit: Fears validated. Lacquer paint is so thin and "misty" or whatever that if there is the slightest little gap in your masking, paint will find its way in. A few tiny spots on this bird where the Alclad feathered through. No biggy since I still need to paint the yellowish nitro-primer bits that will cover the seepage. Sauer fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Jun 7, 2015 |
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Jun 7, 2015 02:29
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I no longer fear death, for I have masked...  On top of that will be the standard Green/Black meandering path camo that 1943 Yaks had, only completely beat up so a lot of that undercoat will show through around panel edges and wing roots and such. Heavier damage on the metal parts and less on the nitro putty bits. In most pictures I've seen the metal parts of soviet aircraft get trashed, but the wood and fabric parts seem less susceptible to paint damage for some reason and that damage looks more like abrasions and worn through spots than chipping. Also learned that Alclad should not be applied over flat primer. It makes a more pebbly finish than I like. Metal is smoother than that. I'll try Alclad's own primer next time I need metal. The nitro parts have been clear coated so its much to shiny right now. Sauer fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jun 7, 2015 |
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Jun 7, 2015 06:38
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That's some seriously heavy ordinance on that Yak.
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Jun 7, 2015 07:06
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Finally got around to gluing that Il-2 together. It's my first 1:48th plane, and holy poo poo is this thing big. Hopefully I won't gently caress it up too much.
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Jun 7, 2015 23:26
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Most ambitious modelling project ever?  http://www.panzerbasics.com/index_files/90-john/john-01.htm Starts out pretty basic, then by page 2-3 it gets 
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Jun 8, 2015 06:19
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I, uh... He's had more than enough inhalants.. I'm also really hoping a hull gets started next.
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Jun 8, 2015 10:34
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Sanguine posted:I, uh... I hope the poor man can find someone to help him on that, it looks really daunting to build such a huge thing alone.
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Jun 8, 2015 10:45
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1:1 is still a scale right?
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Jun 8, 2015 10:58
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Screw painting, let's build more poo poo. Obligatory blood sacrifice: 
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Jun 8, 2015 19:49
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I can't build anymore because I ran out of glue and I won't be able to get any until Friday 
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Jun 8, 2015 19:57
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lilljonas posted:Screw painting, let's build more poo poo. Ah, a Khornate.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:07
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lilljonas posted:Obligatory blood sacrifice: howtobuildmodelhelicopter.jpg
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Jun 8, 2015 20:08
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Ensign Expendable posted:I can't build anymore because I ran out of glue Given the context, I parsed this as "I ran out of superglue to quick-close my cuts" 
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Jun 8, 2015 20:10
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Pierzak posted:Given the context, I parsed this as "I ran out of superglue to quick-close my cuts" Exactly! "drat, I only have plastic glue left, that won't help at all if I separate an artery or two".
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Jun 8, 2015 20:23
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I haven't done an aircraft yet, so I'm watching some videos, and I'm seeing one guy do: Primer -> Wash (charcoal) -> Base color (metallic) ...wouldn't the base color just cover up the wash? What's the point of that?
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Jun 8, 2015 21:02
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Superglue is amazing for those little scale modeling injuries. Just slap some CA over the wound, instant scab.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:12
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COOL CORN posted:I haven't done an aircraft yet, so I'm watching some videos, and I'm seeing one guy do: Is he using an air brush? If so he might be putting on a very thinned translucent layer that will add the colour but leave a shading effect where the wash has darkened the recessed areas. Just an idea, a bit like a filter I suppose.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:56
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COOL CORN posted:I haven't done an aircraft yet, so I'm watching some videos, and I'm seeing one guy do: It will if you put it on to thick. Most modelling paints have intense pigmentation and are opaque, but its still just a film a few microns thick, it will remain somewhat translucent. A couple of thin coats will give you the colouration you want and still let the preshading show through. Its what makes my two favorite painting techniques work: Three-Layer Blend and Black Basing. Sauer fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 22:09
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I've added a strong wash and some more layers to the Chevy and it definitely looks more sun weathered now. The wash is very strong as my theory is that the very last step is dust effects in the crevasses so I don't want this to destroy and shading there. I think its a good foundation coat to work from. It's super glosses obviously, this is the first ever model I've attempted from a desert theatre so any advice is helpful. Next steps I was going to do was a very light dry brush over the whole thing and then some very light chipping around only the high wear areas. Then to start on all the details and stowage.     And just to remind you how it started: 
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Jun 9, 2015 19:33
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Wow, looking much much better. Maybe it'll be motivation for me to throw some paint on my tank tonight.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:16
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Here's the Ju 290 after some panel shading and a base of basalt grey. I picked it because it has a purplish hue to it Gonna start on the splinter now (and as is tradition, loose whatever shading survived the first state of painting...)
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Jun 10, 2015 02:04
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Nebakenezzer posted:...and as is tradition, loose whatever shading survived the first state of painting... When you think it needs one more coat... stop.
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Jun 10, 2015 02:57
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Nebakenezzer posted:Here's the Ju 290 after some panel shading and a base of basalt grey. I picked it because it has a purplish hue to it Gonna start on the splinter now (and as is tradition, loose whatever shading survived the first state of painting...) That's a mighty big model. Looking forward to seeing it all finished up!
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Jun 10, 2015 06:46
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Nebakenezzer posted:Decals go better on glossy than flat surfaces. The main tip is to use water with dish liquid in it for placing the decals. If you wet the surface with that solution and then apply the decal, you can move it around plenty without worrying about tearing. The other two thing that can help with decals are decal setting solutions. In North America we have micro-sol and micro-mark - I'm not sure what they use in Europe. A bit late with responding but I ended up giving both suggestions a try. Found a model kit store that had Micro-set and picked up a bottle, along with trying the dish liquid trick. Still gotta redo the decals on the Boeing(Also considering just picking up a new one for the four euros they cost and just using the decals, or using paint to finish it), but last weekend I assembled a 1:72 Revell Fokker D.VII and decalled it to give it a try, here's the progress and results:    The Micro-set smells terrible when applying, but it does a great job. I ended up not putting on the lozenge camouflage because the entire sheet was black and white and would require hand-painting every single lozenge on there, basically a case of  .Also picked up a new challenge while I was at the store:  That Tomcat in there is one I'm working on right now, it's also 1:144. I'm still pretty much new to the game so most of this is practice on "easy" models just to get the hang of it. Due to apartment living I'm a bit limited in space and what I can do, so all my painting is regular brushwork.
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Jun 10, 2015 10:59
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I've just got a base through I ordered ages ago so did a quick knock up of what the final gift should look like: 
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Jun 10, 2015 16:28
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