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Finally finished off my last DA starter mini, Librarian Turmiel: He was sitting half-painted on a shelf for 10 months and was a bit worse for wear dust-wise, but he tidied up well enough.  Looking at the close-ups I do need to touch up a few things, but I'm honestly just happy to have one of the starter forces finished. I've had that box set for 2 years!
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Jun 3, 2015 23:37
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Hot  that clean as gently caress blue and blending on the sword.Great color choice too. That model looks great man.
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Jun 3, 2015 23:41
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That's very pretty and really POPS
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Jun 4, 2015 00:02
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Thanks - it's just a knock-off of the studio scheme though, so the colour choices were easy. 
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Jun 4, 2015 00:09
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Cross post from the warmahordes land Decided to take a break from the dragons for a bit and got myself a Butcher and had to paint him, and make it bloody.    
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Jun 4, 2015 05:20
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If you have a big hardon for the old GW cases the same company is, IIRC, still making them or a very close derivative of them called Infinity Cases as cases to carry sensitive instruments.
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Jun 4, 2015 05:26
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Fingers McGee posted:Cross post from the warmahordes land Crop your photos buddy. Otherwise looks very neat and tidy. Love the gore on the axe, how did you do it?
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Jun 4, 2015 10:54
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Fingers McGee posted:Cross post from the warmahordes land I'm not a huge fan of gore on minis but you pulled it off well. That being said, the paintjob on the model itself is excellent, and the gore doesn't detract from that at all.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:04
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Thanks guys. Yea it was late and I was lazy on the cropping. I'm not usually a Gore on minis guy either but I wanted to try some blood effects. My idea was a line or trail of blood off the axe like it was in motion. I used a hot glue gun and just globbed some glue strings on my glass jar I use to was brushes. Kinda dropped down the side. Eventually I had some strings I could use. I painted over them with blood for the blood God. Getting some thick globs on the strings to look like drips. Then I laid it on the axe to see if it looked any good and was satisfied. So I attached it to the axe with some more blood paint. The globs on the axe are a bit bigger than I wanted but I was willing to live with it. I'm not sure how well it will hold up over time though.
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Jun 4, 2015 18:25
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OneTrueBru posted:Finally finished off my last DA starter mini, Librarian Turmiel: JFC, that's beautiful. There's nothing useful I can say about it, it's just gorgeous. You painted the rim of the base black, though, therefore we can't be friends. 
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Jun 4, 2015 19:01
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Just manned up and switched from my cheap china airbrush to the SOTAR i bought on sale a year ago. HOLY poo poo that thing is amazing, it's a whole other world with regards to control. It feels like I'm gently drawing on the model with a magic brush compared to the "small spraycan" feeling from the cheap airbrush. 
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Jun 4, 2015 19:54
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HardCoil posted:Just manned up and switched from my cheap china airbrush to the SOTAR i bought on sale a year ago. It's so frustrating trying to get exactly this across to people online trying to get tips on their £80/$100 POS airbrush/compressor setup they just splurged out on...
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Jun 4, 2015 20:04
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I've got my eye on a Krome or a Sotar. The Badger Anthem has been great for base coating but I want something with a gravity feed to do finer detail. I might try to grab a patriot just to have a gravity fed base brush. There is some inefficiency with the siphon feed and small amounts of paint. I need to see if it's possible to just buy a Patriot body and attach all the Anthem pieces as they seem interchangeable.
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Jun 4, 2015 21:19
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Post 9-11 User posted:You painted the rim of the base black, though, therefore we can't be friends. Black base rim supremacy. (goblin green can also be cool, if used appropriately)
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Jun 4, 2015 23:55
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Super 3 posted:I've got my eye on a Krome or a Sotar. The Badger Anthem has been great for base coating but I want something with a gravity feed to do finer detail. I might try to grab a patriot just to have a gravity fed base brush. There is some inefficiency with the siphon feed and small amounts of paint. I need to see if it's possible to just buy a Patriot body and attach all the Anthem pieces as they seem interchangeable. Have you considered getting a paint cup or two for your Anthem? That's what I use for small amounts and it works great
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Jun 5, 2015 01:10
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What are some beginner tutorials on painting faces (28mm) so I can stop making every mini look like Nazis from the end of Raiders? I've tried a few ways, but I'm not sure if this is the one case you actually need a super tiny brush or not. There is conflicting advice. My plan is to dig into my pile o' bones minis and paint a new face each day. I will be PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 06:09
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OneTrueBru posted:Black base rim supremacy. (goblin green can also be cool, if used appropriately) Even though you're 100% correct and Post 9-11 User is a heathen, we probably shouldn't go down this road again.
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Jun 5, 2015 08:54
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PirateDentist posted:What are some beginner tutorials on painting faces (28mm) so I can stop making every mini look like Nazis from the end of Raiders? I've tried a few ways, but I'm not sure if this is the one case you actually need a super tiny brush or not. There is conflicting advice. I learned my facepainting from Jenova Project https://www.jenova.dk Females are harder to get looking good than males so start with the guys first.
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Jun 5, 2015 09:17
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Only SRM can get away with Goblin Green bases and even then it's the nostalgia factor.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:28
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I prefer the old Graveyard Earth - it'd be Steel Legion Drab these days. Well, depending on the base theme honestly, my dark soil/white snow Tau have blue-gray bases, my glowy-lava nids have black rims (contrast, yo) and my marshwater Marines have murky green, but otherwise I default to a simple earthy gray-brown.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:55
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Drake_263 posted:I prefer the old Graveyard Earth - it'd be Steel Legion Drab these days. Well, depending on the base theme honestly, my dark soil/white snow Tau have blue-gray bases, my glowy-lava nids have black rims (contrast, yo) and my marshwater Marines have murky green, but otherwise I default to a simple earthy gray-brown. I've always wanted to paint my bases with different colored rims depending on the squad  So, anyway, I've had a hair up my rear end to get back into miniatures for a couple weeks now, the scale modeling thread has directed me back here. I'm not exactly wanting to get back into 40k models, because I'm really not interested in dropping another $120 for rulebooks, but I do really like the Forgeworld Chaos Renegades and I've been wanting to make some for years now  Are there any suitable alternatives? Or should I just suck it up and just make my Chaos Guard?
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Jun 5, 2015 15:08
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signalnoise posted:Have you considered getting a paint cup or two for your Anthem? That's what I use for small amounts and it works great I have one and even angling it seems like I need to put more paint into it to get it to siphon up and spray.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:21
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Here's a method I recently used to do a medium custard-y yellow, in the form of an Oath Thread crosspost: I left out a couple of steps in that thread, so here's a much more detailed breakdown: 1. Zenithal priming, finishing with white from overhead. (The mini was already primed black when I got it, and I build up from that, so the shadows turned out very dark. If I were starting from scratch, I'd make my darkest primer color a mid-to-dark grey. But oh well.) 2. Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade, thinned about 1:1 and focusing on the crevices and undersides. I used Lahmian Medium for thinning. (A sepia wash with more orange in it, like Seraphim Sepia, would also work well; you'd give up some of the deeper contrast, but the gradient would be a much more natural progression.) 3. Brush on a basecoat of Minitaire Ghost Tints Yellow, mixed with a bit of matte medium and a drop of Liquitex glaze medium. 4. Brush a small amount of Minitaire Ghost Tints Golden Yellow into a gradient from the areas shaded by wash. I thinned this with the matte medium/glaze medium above, to help smooth out the blending. 5. (Optional) Glaze with Lamenters Yellow, or your favorite yellow paint thinned to a glaze level of transparency. This helped blur the gradient between the Ghost Tints and tie the color scheme together. It also deepens the saturation nicely (pre-glazing, the yellow was a bit pale for the effect I wanted; YMMV). 6. Matte varnish as a "save point." Ghost Tints are hilariously glossy, and the glaze medium tends to dry shiny as well. The matte varnish will kill that shine, blend the gradient a bit further, and give the appearance of solidity to the final coat. With this method, the paints are mostly transparent, so the zenithal priming does a lot of your work for you. This is essentially the method that BULBASAUR suggested a couple of pages back, so any sufficiently-thinned yellow paint should work. The writeup is also much more complicated than the actual execution; you should be able to get all these steps done in a few hours, and you don't even need an airbrush if you use rattlecan primers and varnish.
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Jun 5, 2015 16:36
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I use what used to be called Scorched Brown. It's a dark brown, nothing complicated about that. I still have the Foundation series in Calthan Brown, I have no idea what I'm supposed to switch to when those run out or the pots dry out.
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Jun 5, 2015 18:49
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Post 9-11 User posted:I use what used to be called Scorched Brown. It's a dark brown, nothing complicated about that. I still have the Foundation series in Calthan Brown, I have no idea what I'm supposed to switch to when those run out or the pots dry out. Does anyone recall who worked on the Scale Model Helper Android app? That thing was very useful for finding just about any equivalent paint color, but post-Lollipop it doesn't seem to have been updated.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:42
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So I got my DV box set yesterday after hemming and hawing for a couple years about whether or not I want to get into this hobby. I finally bit the bullet and just did it, and so far I'm having fun putting the models together and painting a couple test Marines. Right now the only paints I have are the ones that came in the GW Starter Paintset (which apparently doesn't exist anymore on their webstore?). This includes: Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Imperial Primer, Mephiston Red, Agrax Earthshade, Caliban Green, Leadbelcher, and Ulthuan Grey. Like half of these have already started to dry out.. the Mephiston Red in particular, it has a huge dried-up ball of goo floating in the middle of the pot. Since GW paints are generally a ripoff, how do Vallejo Game Color and Army Painter Warpaints stack up against each other for painting 40k stuff? I'm looking at intro sets for both of them on Amazon. For my DV models, I'll be sticking to the Dark Angels/Crimson Slaughter color schemes. For content, here's a test marine I painted up using those intro GW paints that I already have. Nothing great, but for one of my first models I think it's fine, and it would be perfectly acceptable on a tabletop:  
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Jun 6, 2015 09:18
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OneTrueBru posted:Finally finished off my last DA starter mini, Librarian Turmiel: This is loving gorgeous. Need to beef up my painting skills considerably. Any tutorials you can reccomend?
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Jun 6, 2015 10:25
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Drone posted:For content, here's a test marine I painted up using those intro GW paints that I already have. Nothing great, but for one of my first models I think it's fine, and it would be perfectly acceptable on a tabletop: Pretty decent for a first marine. I would advise, when painting light colors, such as on the tactical squad arrow and Dark Angels logo, to try to do multiple thin layers. It will turn out more solid, and will minimize the appearance of brushstrokes.
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Jun 6, 2015 10:41
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Drone posted:
That's honestly good work for a starter mini - none of the detail is obscured by gloopy, unthinned paint and even small areas are neatly painted. Paint-wise, I haven't tried any of Army Painter's products besides their spray primers (which worked fine) but you can't really go wrong with Vallejo's range. I mainly use the Game Colour paints and they work just fine. The only issue to be aware of is that VGC paint tends to separate extremely quickly both in the bottle and on the palette, so, if you go with Vallejo, you'll need to be prepared to vigorously shake dropper bottles and keep palette wells stirred while working. That said, thinking about it, I'm wondering if the Game Air range would be a better buy these days. They didn't exist back when I started, but having pre-thinned versions of (most of) the saturated VGC colours might be pretty handy. Has anyone used the new VGA paints? Are they more 'stable' than the normal VGC ones? nopantsjack posted:This is loving gorgeous. Need to beef up my painting skills considerably. Any tutorials you can reccomend? Thanks! Back when I started GW still hosted their old 'Eavy Metal WD tutorials, which were a godsend when trying to figure out how the whole 'painting 'hams' thing works. If you can find the .pdfs floating around on the web, I imagine they'll still be quite useful even if the paint names have been changed 2 or 3 times since they were printed. Some of the old masterclass ones are depressingly advanced, so don't be put off if you find the NMM chaos lord one - iirc it's loving insane. Video tutorials - I mainly just watched the 'big' ones: Lester Bursley's awesomepaintjob and the Buypainted dude's channel. They were the main factor that prompted me to pick up an airbrush and I strongly recommend doing the same (if you haven't already). Even if you use it for nothing else, being able to prime and basecoat regardless of weather is awesome. Speaking of airbrushes, Angel Giraldez's blog and A-Z tutorial book are excellent as well. I just got back into painting after a year out and following one of his step-by-steps has definitely helped knock the rust off. While a lot of the advice he gives can be found all over the internet - the 'Angel Giraldez method' is basically zenithial priming extended to the painting stage - most of his tutorials are nicely laid out, with proper, zoomed-in photos of the work area. See https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.756162454444664.1073742021.436491416411771 for an example.
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Jun 6, 2015 11:14
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Just so that I don't get this wrong, what's the procedure for sealing a mini with Pledge floor care multisurface finish plus a final coat of Testors Dullcote (or in my case Alclad Klear Kote Flat)? Is it just one coat of each with a day's drying time in between? Thick? Thin? And i clean the brush with mineral turpentine?
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Jun 6, 2015 12:16
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OneTrueBru posted:That said, thinking about it, I'm wondering if the Game Air range would be a better buy these days. They didn't exist back when I started, but having pre-thinned versions of (most of) the saturated VGC colours might be pretty handy. Are those only for use with airbrushes, or is the "air" name just a way of noting that it's pre-thinned?
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Jun 6, 2015 12:42
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Drone posted:Are those only for use with airbrushes, or is the "air" name just a way of noting that it's pre-thinned? They're just pre-thinned (and apparently use a finer pigment to avoid clogging airbrush nozzles). I have a few Model Air paints and they brush on just fine. The VMA metallics in particular are great - they've probably been mentioned in the thread before. NTRabbit posted:Just so that I don't get this wrong, what's the procedure for sealing a mini with Pledge floor care multisurface finish plus a final coat of Testors Dullcote (or in my case Alclad Klear Kote Flat)? Sounds about right. The floor polish will self-level so it's actually quite difficult to screw up, just watch that small recesses don't get swamped by run-off from other parts of the model - you can wick away any excess with a brush. A day's drying time between varnishes will be more than enough. After the gloss coat the model will likely be touch-dry within an hour, but I've had issues with spraying on matte varnish too quickly so taking a break for a day is probably sensible. When doing the matte coat, take it slow and apply multiple thin coats if needed. I honestly don't know if there's a surefire way to avoid frosting, so just keep a careful eye on the model as you work and stop immediately if you spot any colours becoming overly muted.
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Jun 6, 2015 13:51
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Cool, the Alklad isn't an aerosol like the Testors so I'll be brushing it on as well. It's meant to be airbrushed, but for this go I'll be doing it by hand. What do I do if it starts to frost, aside from stop?
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Jun 6, 2015 13:59
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NTRabbit posted:Cool, the Alklad isn't an aerosol like the Testors so I'll be brushing it on as well. If you're brushing it on, you should be good. I thought you'd be spraying the varnishes, sorry! If frosting somehow does occur, apparently you can either re-coat model with gloss and try again, or (and this sounds iffy to me) take a cotton bud/q-tip coated with olive oil and gently 'rub' the model with it. I assume that most of the oil then needs to be carefully removed and the model re-varnished. The latter option sounds seriously dodgy to me, but I've seen it mentioned enough times that it must work (to some extent). Maybe the oil residue that's left fills in the irregularities that cause the frosting? Who knows.
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Jun 6, 2015 14:08
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Thanks, gonna give it all a go now then
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Jun 6, 2015 14:28
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Drone posted:So I got my DV box set yesterday after hemming and hawing for a couple years about whether or not I want to get into this hobby. I finally bit the bullet and just did it, and so far I'm having fun putting the models together and painting a couple test Marines. Right now the only paints I have are the ones that came in the GW Starter Paintset (which apparently doesn't exist anymore on their webstore?). This includes: Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Imperial Primer, Mephiston Red, Agrax Earthshade, Caliban Green, Leadbelcher, and Ulthuan Grey. Like half of these have already started to dry out.. the Mephiston Red in particular, it has a huge dried-up ball of goo floating in the middle of the pot. Looks a lot better than my first Ork. That box isn't available anymore because they're in the process of replacing their brush line, and that had the old ones in it. Call GW and get those paints replaced though, that's inexcusable and not standard. Someone actually posted a step by step Dark Angels tutorial today, and it's pretty good. Uses a lot of paints you don't have yet though:  http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2015/06/tutorial-how-to-paint-dark-angel.html Also, don't buy the Dark Angels codex until July.
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Jun 6, 2015 19:52
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Someone actually posted a step by step Dark Angels tutorial today, and it's pretty good. Uses a lot of paints you don't have yet though: That looks like a stellar tutorial and I look forward to trying it out once I pick up some more paints. I've decided on picking up a bunch of Vallejo stuff, but I can work out equivalent paint names and at least use the guide to get an idea of how, if not necessarily following it paint-by-paint.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:04
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Drone posted:That looks like a stellar tutorial and I look forward to trying it out once I pick up some more paints. I've decided on picking up a bunch of Vallejo stuff, but I can work out equivalent paint names and at least use the guide to get an idea of how, if not necessarily following it paint-by-paint. You don't even have to figure out the paints yourself.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:23
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Meanwhile I'm just waiting for some base extenders so I can get to work on one of my projects - a bunch of rescue Marines I got for cheap from a friend. They included a bunch of old metal Veterans - paired with a couple of rescue minis from another friend I'd just scrubbed and refurbished with some bits, well. Generally I dislike working with metal minis, but these guys have charm to them:     Personally I love the old metal Apothecary sculpt - he's all tiny and goofy compared to the rest of them. I was thinking of getting some cork or something to subtly boost him but I'm now strangely enamored with the idea of a vertically challenged Astartes medic.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:29
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Which extenders did you get?
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Jun 6, 2015 21:47
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