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Now that I've had some caffeine and rubbed a few more neurons together, would the clockspring be suspect if I don't have cruise (can engage the system, but not get any throttle modulation), occasional airbag light, but working horn? Or do I have to get off my rear end and dig through some other Chrysler electrical problems?
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Jun 5, 2015 16:04
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 15:47 |
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The Amazon page for the 97ish Wrangler with cruise clockspring has several user comments that the part works fine with the Cherokee, so I just ordered one.
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Jun 5, 2015 18:13
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EightBit posted:Now that I've had some caffeine and rubbed a few more neurons together, would the clockspring be suspect if I don't have cruise (can engage the system, but not get any throttle modulation), occasional airbag light, but working horn? Or do I have to get off my rear end and dig through some other Chrysler electrical problems? The 97-up electrical system resistively multiplexes all the cruise buttons onto a single pair of wires in the clockspring, so I doubt your clockspring is at fault. It's probably elsewhere - actuator, vacuum lines, and remember that some DTCs can disable the cruise system.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:20
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Anyone happen to know what the backspacing is on these 10-hole aluminum wheels? They're the 15" factory Jeep ones off a '92 cherokee. Can't find info anywhere and am looking to throw 31x10.5 rubber on them.
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Jun 5, 2015 20:31
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I replaced a whole bunch of cooling system parts (water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.) in my 99 XJ yesterday. I had to use the hose to clean off the front of the engine around the water pump because there was a great deal of oil/dirt/grime cake. I also lightly sprayed most of the engine compartment to clean off the spilled coolant from when I back flushed the heater core. So there was water all over. The Jeep would not start when I was finished. I went back to it this morning, and it started. The engine was idling while I was using my spill free funnel to top off the system. The engine shut off by itself, and now it cranks but will not start. I am by myself, so I can't check for spark (I will when my wife gets home). The fuel pump kicks on when I turn the key. The engine turns over just fine. No codes. I pulled one spark plug and it smelled like fuel. I looked inside the distributor cap; there were some metal flakes, but it was dry. I unplugged several sensors (CTS, TPS, CKP, etc.), and inspected for moisture. All plugs were dry except the harness that plugs into the ignition coil. I used shop air to dry the connector to the ignition coil, and a noticeable spray of liquid was ejected, but the engine still would not start when I plugged it back in. I will add that it was hard to find the ignition coil because of how much oil/dirt/grime cake was on it. I connected my ELM Bluetooth dongle and fired up Torque Pro. If I crank the engine for a few seconds, I eventually get an RPM signal, approximately 80 rpm, which seems appropriate for RPM from the starter motor. Does this mean the crankshaft sensor is working? I hate hate hate replacing crank sensors on these Jeeps. This sensor was replaced in February 2011. I know the CKP is the number one go to item for a no start condition, but I don't want to replace it if I don't have to. I get throttle position data in Torque during cranking, so I can tell it is still communicating during cranking. Any advice? What are the chances the coil is bad, and how can ID a bad coil as opposed to a bad CKP?
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Jun 5, 2015 21:11
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PBCrunch posted:I replaced a whole bunch of cooling system parts (water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.) in my 99 XJ yesterday. I had to use the hose to clean off the front of the engine around the water pump because there was a great deal of oil/dirt/grime cake. I also lightly sprayed most of the engine compartment to clean off the spilled coolant from when I back flushed the heater core. So there was water all over. I'm no expert on this, but I don't think 80RPM is appropriate starting speed. Make sure you aren't killing your battery trying to start it.
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Jun 6, 2015 00:26
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Try flooring it while cranking, that will get you flood clear mode. I've had some XJs not start after work or being cranked a lot unless this was used. Just be ready for it to start and don't keep it floored when it does. Water doesn't get into the coil or TPS through the connectors, actually - they are pretty drat waterproof. The TPS gets saturated through the gap around the input shaft and the coil only has issues if it is cracked and was about to die anyways. Another thing - check if water got in the distributor. I just don't wash my engine compartment, scrape off the areas I need to work on and that's it  E: almost all factory jeep wheels are about 5.25" backspacing. Not sure about phonedials/ten-holes.
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Jun 6, 2015 12:22
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Who do you guys usually use for ordering lift kits, etc? Quadratec?
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Jun 6, 2015 14:25
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So what do I need to know about weatherproofing a 05 TJ? I'd like to throw a half cover bikini on it for a couple of months but Im not real sure about the preparation. Also my area gets very little rain but lots of fine sandy dust.
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Jun 6, 2015 15:55
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Anyone happen to know what the backspacing is on these 10-hole aluminum wheels? They're the 15" factory Jeep ones off a '92 cherokee. Can't find info anywhere and am looking to throw 31x10.5 rubber on them. Put the wheel face down on the ground and lay a board across it. Measure from the board down to the wheel mating surface. That's your backspacing.
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Jun 6, 2015 16:45
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Astonishing Wang posted:Put the wheel face down on the ground and lay a board across it. Measure from the board down to the wheel mating surface. That's your backspacing. Thanks! If anyone else ever wonders, they're ~5.25" BS. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 6, 2015 16:56
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Who do you guys usually use for ordering lift kits, etc? Quadratec? It depends on specifically what you're buying, but they're always worth comparing, and if you're a member of some of the forums out there (jeepforum for one) you can get free shipping. Northridge is another good source of stuff.
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Jun 6, 2015 18:11
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I'm trying to order all new suspension components. Looking at a 2-3" lift kit, plus whatever odds and ends (shackles, isolators, etc) will be needed. edit: Pulled the trigger on the Rough Country 3" Series II kit with adjustable shackles, getting the other odds-and-ends together through my local parts store. Now to find some tires before buyer's remorse kicks in... FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 6, 2015 18:27
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PBCrunch posted:I replaced a whole bunch of cooling system parts.... I had this happen once in the middle of nowhere after driving through some puddles too enthusiastically. Jeep wouldn't start at all the next morning, just cranked and cranked. Even tried replacing the CPS. Eventually after an hour of loving with it I decided I'd crank the battery until it died before I started walking 15 miles for help, and it finally fired up. No idea what it was. Since the puddles weren't too deep at all and it was just water spray, I kind of suspect something to do with the alternator. I'd just let it dry out another day if you can. FreelanceSocialist posted:Thanks! If anyone else ever wonders, they're ~5.25" BS. FYI you'll want either new wheels backspaced about ~4" or wheel spacers to run 31x10.5. poo poo's gonna rub at turn. I used 1 1/4" Spidertrax and it's just right for my 31x10.5s. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 6, 2015 22:43
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Think 30x9.5's would be fine w/ the 5.25 BS on a 3" lift?
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Jun 6, 2015 22:49
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Think 30x9.5's would be fine w/ the 5.25 BS on a 3" lift? I had 235x75 before (3.5" lift) and they rubbed. That works out to about 28.9x9.25 so the 30s will still hit.
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Jun 6, 2015 23:14
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I had this happen once in the middle of nowhere after driving through some puddles too enthusiastically. Jeep wouldn't start at all the next morning, just cranked and cranked. Even tried replacing the CPS. Eventually after an hour of loving with it I decided I'd crank the battery until it died before I started walking 15 miles for help, and it finally fired up. No idea what it was. Since the puddles weren't too deep at all and it was just water spray, I kind of suspect something to do with the alternator. I'd just let it dry out another day if you can. But if you had power to crank, then you had power to spark... ? Im not seeing how it could've been an alternator issue. Maybe water got into a relay/ignition item needed to start or something SomethingOrAnother fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 6, 2015 23:34
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I had 235x75 before (3.5" lift) and they rubbed. That works out to about 28.9x9.25 so the 30s will still hit. drat. I really like my factory aluminum wheels. I'll have to look into spacers and probably longer studs
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Jun 6, 2015 23:51
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SomethingOrAnother posted:But if you had power to crank, then you had power to spark... ? Im not seeing how it could've been an alternator issue. Maybe water got into a relay/ignition item needed to start or something I asked around and did a little research after the fact and never found a definitive answer. Point being, sometimes Jeeps don't like getting wet, but after it dries out it will be fine. FreelanceSocialist posted:drat. I really like my factory aluminum wheels. I'll have to look into spacers and probably longer studs Yeah I liked my OE wheels too. I got these spacers. If you use good hub-centric ones you won't need longer studs. There are cheaper sets out there but I wouldn't screw around with your tire flying off. $160 isn't bad.
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Jun 7, 2015 00:06
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Welp, I now have this sitting in front of my place, tractor motor and all. I'm assuming it's normal for the steering to have an inch or so of free play and the trans to take long enough to kick down to get out a stopwatch and time it.  E: free Jeep is best Jeep. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jun 7, 2015 |
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Jun 7, 2015 04:44
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Think 30x9.5's would be fine w/ the 5.25 BS on a 3" lift? I run 31's on a set of stock jeep wheels and they rub a bit at full lock but are otherwise alright.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:57
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HotCanadianChick posted:
Welcome to the delightful world of drag link steering.
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Jun 7, 2015 14:57
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HotCanadianChick posted:
Yes to the steering and with the trans I would check the fluid. If the color is decent and at a good level just change it. But if its dark and low just keep adding fluid and be greatful for the free rust proofing ATF undercoating your vehicle now has.
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Jun 7, 2015 17:37
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SouthsideSaint posted:Yes to the steering and with the trans I would check the fluid. If the color is decent and at a good level just change it. But if its dark and low just keep adding fluid and be greatful for the free rust proofing ATF undercoating your vehicle now has. Already asked my parents when the last time the transmission had it's fluid changed. "Uh... I don't think we've ever had to do that". It's got 122k on it, wanna bet it's still on the factory ATF? 
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Jun 7, 2015 20:17
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HotCanadianChick posted:Already asked my parents when the last time the transmission had it's fluid changed. "Uh... I don't think we've ever had to do that". It's got 122k on it, wanna bet it's still on the factory ATF? Don't overlook your diff(s) oil and transfer case if it's 4wd, especially if you plan on engaging it at all. When I finally got around to checking my tcase I was horrified at the tiny amount on fluid that drained out; I don't think it had been touched in 188,000m.
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Jun 7, 2015 20:41
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I just did an oil change on both my diffs at 50k. I rarely use 4wd, so I'll wait until at least 75k to touch the tcase. HotCanadianChick posted:Already asked my parents when the last time the transmission had it's fluid changed. "Uh... I don't think we've ever had to do that". It's got 122k on it, wanna bet it's still on the factory ATF? That's a safe assumption on almost every car with 100k on the clock, frankly.
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Jun 7, 2015 21:13
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 Ugly as hell, bit If this things horn doesn't play Dixie I call BS http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/5057757523.html
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Jun 7, 2015 23:42
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Anybody know a good engine stand for mounting a 4.0? I've got my eye on a Jegs 1250 lb stand but I don't want to make too many more stupid mistakes.
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Jun 8, 2015 17:35
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Horse Divorce posted:Anybody know a good engine stand for mounting a 4.0? I've got my eye on a Jegs 1250 lb stand but I don't want to make too many more stupid mistakes. I've got a $45 harbor freight 750 lb stand and it works fine (and has for years). If I were to do it again I'd buy the 1000 lb one for $60 for the extra stability (wasn't in stock and I'm a man of immediate needs).
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Jun 8, 2015 17:48
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I have a handful of the 4-wheel HF stands and they work fine on a 4.0. You'll need longer than factory bolts (or just big long chunks of allthread, washers, and nuts), lowers are 7/16-14 and uppers are 3/8-16. I am sure the 3-wheel unit would hold an engine up fine but I don't trust myself to not tip one over while wheeling it around.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:01
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Craigslist in my area is flush with engine stands and engine hoists. Some used once, some homebrew, so YMMV obv.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:46
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Yeah, I'm going to be trawling local classifieds before i dedicate the cash. Good info, thanks guys.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:50
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PBCrunch posted:...I had to use the hose to clean off the front of the engine around the water pump because there was a great deal of oil/dirt/grime cake. I also lightly sprayed most of the engine compartment to clean off the spilled coolant from when I back flushed the heater core. So there was water all over... I replaced the ignition coil. After a little hesitation the Jeep started up. The engine ran poorly for a few seconds, then it ran like normal. The hesitation and poor running was from flooding, I am sure. While the Jeep was down I fixed the wiring loom that goes through the flex boot into the hatch. My rear defrost and wiper hadn't worked in well over a year. I got the defroster working, and power was going to the wiper motor. The wiper motor was seized. I saw some info about freeing up the wiper motors, but positive results seemed temporary at best. I bit the bullet and spent $60 on a wiper motor. I also fixed the sticky latch while I had the hatch apart. Anyone with an XJ knows how annoying it is to have to push against the hatch with your body to get it to open. Now everything in the hatch works perfectly. If only the same could be said for the rest of the truck. At least it is running again.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:54
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PBCrunch posted:While the Jeep was down I fixed the wiring loom that goes through the flex boot into the hatch. My rear defrost and wiper hadn't worked in well over a year. I got the defroster working, and power was going to the wiper motor. The wiper motor was seized. I saw some info about freeing up the wiper motors, but positive results seemed temporary at best. I bit the bullet and spent $60 on a wiper motor. How tough was the harness? My orange wire and white wire are both completely broken, but my wiper and defrost work okay. I know my third brake light has been dead forever, and I have a tire carrier so the license plate light doesn't matter. And how did you secure the hook onto the latch rod? No matter what I do, that fucker works its way loose eventually. Why it's even 'adjustable' is beyond me.
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Jun 8, 2015 23:06
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Philip J Fry posted:How tough was the harness? My orange wire and white wire are both completely broken, but my wiper and defrost work okay. I know my third brake light has been dead forever, and I have a tire carrier so the license plate light doesn't matter. quote:And how did you secure the hook onto the latch rod? No matter what I do, that fucker works its way loose eventually. Why it's even 'adjustable' is beyond me. I replaced the flaky door lock actuator in the rear passenger door with a used part. I replaced the turn signal flasher that doesn't flash when the weather is hot with a new unit. Now the turn signal works, and its clicking sounds like a Japanese car. I installed the Dorman TJ with cruise clockspring on my XJ. It was a perfect fit; the airbag light is off, and the cruise and the horn work!
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Jun 9, 2015 00:28
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Nice! Glad things are looking up for it. How many cracks were in the ignition coil housing? And yes, I've had to replace... a number of those stupid hatch harnesses. I eventually gave up and rebuilt mine with MIL22759 aircraft grade Tefzel wire pilfered from the trashcan at work. Then I threw in the towel and took it off the road, and will be cutting the drat jeep up for parts because it's a cursed pile of garbage that I've put an everything into and somehow it's all still broken, oh and I found out it was VIN swapped by the guy I bought it from so it's never seeing pavement again anyways. Some much more deserving MJs will receive most of its parts.
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Jun 9, 2015 01:59
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Anyone want a oil adapter seal kit for a Jeep 4.0 or an axle seal for a Chrysler 8.25" rear end? Bought two of the first one (and have therefore already replaced it) and now have a Ford 8.8", so ... they're pretty much free for the taking. The oil adapter seal will fit in an envelope, so if you PM me your address, I'll mail it to you. The Axle seal ... I'll try if you want, but I'm not putting more than a stamp on it, so who knows if they'll take it?  Posting this in Marketplace thread, too.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:32
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Trail Rated!
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Jun 11, 2015 03:30
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hahahaha How in the hell do you do that?
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Jun 11, 2015 04:43
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 15:47 |
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The only thing I can come up with is that the driver went down the hill way too fast, nailed the river bed, and bounced up the other side where it got stuck. The source is a guy who found it like that while hiking.
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Jun 11, 2015 06:18
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