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krushgroove posted:Check ebay, I usually order from a UK supplier called magnetsmagnetsmagnets but recently tried a seller in Hong Kong with good success. I've also been googling, and found https://www.supermagnete.com which seems perfectly reasonable too. 140 pieces of a 3mm x 1mm magnet for 24e. Gotta compare how it matches with Ebay sellers. Attestant fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 09:49
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I'm trying to plan out how to paint the power weapons from my DV set without an airbrush. The actual technique I've found on various youtube videos/etc. seems fine, but I'm wondering if there are some good examples of power weapons that aren't blue or green? Like, I'm thinking about doing a red power sword for my Deathwing Terminators, since I think the cream would go really well with red. For my Chaos dudes I'm thinking of a purple power sword (or potentially even for my company commander, since it purple and dark green can go well together if done right), but I can't seem to find any photos of examples of what this actually looks like. Anyone got anything?
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Jun 10, 2015 11:45
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An Angry Bug posted:Don't forget to post the pics of it touched up when you get a sec. Thanks for the reminder.   Today's mini-conversion, Herald of Nurgle on a "palanquin."  Gotta get the most out of each kit. Probably going to use the spare Maggoth parts for when I finally get a Soulgrinder.
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Jun 10, 2015 13:47
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PierreTheMime posted:Thanks for the reminder. He looks so happy on his nurgle mouth maggot steed. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 14:57
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PierreTheMime posted:
The crotch saddle spike is fortunately/unfortunately positioned.
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Jun 10, 2015 15:04
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I've varnished, flocked and I think finalised the first of my painted Ogre units, since my varnish arrived late last week and I didn't want to flock first and goop up the grass   Mantica Ogres are from the Mammoth Steppe, separating the rest of Mantica from the frozen wastelands in the north. I pictured it as being a little like the Eurasian Steppe crossed with the Dothraki Sea, so it's normal grass but grows tall and as far as the eye can see barring odd islands of trees, which is why the Ogres are so big, and why they dominate the steppe - it's too tall for humans and elves to fight in on foot, but just short enough for Ogres to fight on foot, while still being tall enough for them to hide in for hunt and ambush. The flock is Woodland Scenics Light Green Field Grass
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Jun 10, 2015 15:38
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Drone posted:I'm thinking about doing a red power sword for my Deathwing Terminators I did a exactly that for my DV deathwing terminators.  Bad picture, but you get the idea
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Jun 10, 2015 16:48
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Oh oh. That angle just set you up
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Jun 10, 2015 16:59
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Literally shaking right now from undrilled barrels
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Jun 10, 2015 17:17
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Holy poo poo kill yourself right now
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Jun 10, 2015 17:31
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Indolent Bastard posted:It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. I was looking for that drill bit adaptor too, as it seems to be a good way to mix paint in dropper jars: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0aaFxDc-IY I ended up making this, which will cost me about €15 to print, but compared to the time I'll have to spend to build one from hardware store goods I think it's OK:  The idea is to put a rubber band around the grabby parts on the top. I'll order it this week and let you know if I end up with paint all over the living room.
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Jun 10, 2015 19:26
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My barrels are beautiful just the way they are. If you can't accept that then gently caress all y'all
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Jun 10, 2015 19:32
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I've just got a base through I ordered ages ago so did a quick knock up of what the final gift should look like: 
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Jun 10, 2015 19:46
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 Sorry for the bad lighting, it's raining.
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Jun 10, 2015 19:47
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I bought a pot of black wash for my miniatures, but I've been too nervous to use it yet. What if I ruin my carefully-painted figures by putting a wash all over them?? I don't want them looking weird in the end, or somethingPierreTheMime posted:
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Jun 10, 2015 20:00
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Anyone have any experience with Company B decals? I ordered some rank insignia decals for the German and British WW2 platoons I'm painting up, and they arrived in the mail today, and they are tiiiny.  The page says they're for 28mm, but I kept wondering if I'd gotten some 20mm ones by mistake. Just curious if anyone else has used their decals before.
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Jun 10, 2015 20:20
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Hixson posted:I did a exactly that for my DV deathwing terminators. Cut those witch nails, you nerd
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Jun 10, 2015 21:12
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I say we start pulling those nails out until those barrels get drilled.
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Jun 10, 2015 21:18
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He can use those nails to drill out the barrel, win win
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Jun 10, 2015 21:26
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HardCoil posted:I was looking for that drill bit adaptor too, as it seems to be a good way to mix paint in dropper jars: Lumbering Trolls solution used an old film canister, a bolt and some tissue for padding.
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Jun 10, 2015 22:06
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I'm thinking about taking an old palm sander, mounting it upside down, and attaching a little paint bottle bracket to the plate. That'd probably mix the poo poo out of anything even vaguely paint-like in pretty short order. And those things are a dime a dozen on craigslist.
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Jun 10, 2015 22:10
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PierreTheMime posted:
Yes, we can see that. Bring your model in, dry it off, and take another picture.  It looks awesome and appropriately disgusting
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Jun 10, 2015 23:25
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Indolent Bastard posted:Lumbering Trolls solution used an old film canister, a bolt and some tissue for padding. Close, is was the neck of a hose size adapter from a vacuum, a rubber foot from something to plug the bottom, a thin piece of foam I glued in to create tension, and an blade adapter for a screwdriver. Put the foot in the small end of the neck, glued in place, put a bolt though the hole that went into the blade chuck. That way I could use a quick release for my drill.   I can take pictures of it tomorrow if you like. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 23:37
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So I bought my first Reaper Bones model: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/kaladrax/latest/77192 Wanted a cool model for my desk at work. I haven't painted anything so large, anything Reaper Bones, and frankly modelling has never been my strong point. I know to wash it, I know I should pin it, get a little green stuff, but any other advice? Also, I scrapped all of my modelling supplies when I sold my Warmachine stuff a while ago so I need to buy new brushes and paints. I always just bought cheap poo poo from whatever hobby store but this time I'd like to get some decent brushes, paints, glue etc. Any brand suggestions? e; Doh, missed some of the brand recommendations in the OP. doublt edit; oh god this is so much bigger than I thought what did I get myself into  Nexus 6 for scale 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jun 11, 2015 |
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Jun 11, 2015 00:46
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LumberingTroll posted:
I wouldn't say no.
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Jun 11, 2015 03:30
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Yeah you're a crazy man.
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Jun 11, 2015 03:36
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Sab669 posted:So I bought my first Reaper Bones model: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/kaladrax/latest/77192 Keep in mind that bonesium might act differently from what you're used to paint before. Check the reaper thread for some tips etc.
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Jun 11, 2015 04:44
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Attestant posted:Keep in mind that bonesium might act differently from what you're used to paint before. Check the reaper thread for some tips etc. The biggest thing I found with it is that you need a brand new xacto/knife blade to trim the mold lines well at all. I have a second handle/blade just for that so I can keep a new tip on it. Once it dulls too much for bones I just stick it in another box and use it for my general purpose knife.
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Jun 11, 2015 05:29
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PirateDentist posted:The biggest thing I found with it is that you need a brand new xacto/knife blade to trim the mold lines well at all. I have a second handle/blade just for that so I can keep a new tip on it. Once it dulls too much for bones I just stick it in another box and use it for my general purpose knife. They also have issues with spray primers. Some don't stick properly. Quoting the Reaper thread OP: thespaceinvader posted:
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Jun 11, 2015 10:06
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I have a question for you guys...about models like this:  What do you guys think about this? Is this the new hotness for players & collectors? It seems to be, from what I see. I realize I'm asking people who paint a lot of models but this trend of glow effects on every part of the model is weird/annoying to me. It looks like this started out as a way to inject variations of color, spot color, etc., but it's grown into something that looks like a failed 3D HDR Flickr album. I see people posting this sort of thing on Facebook and getting loads of Likes (maybe not this example so much)... I'm also trying to sell model painting service via Facebook & ebay but my examples just don't stand out next to this, because it's more realistic and gritty (I'm aware I need more & better examples and I've got some stuff that will be finished in the next few weeks, so far I've been showing off only the blue Knights I painted last year and my recently painted superheavies). I guess my question is what do you guys think of this, and how do I make my own stuff stand out when it's posted alongside this kind of thing? I try to emphasize my building, magnetizing and straightforwardness and this tack is working, but slowly, I know I need to build up my 'portfolio' and repeat business but to grab the attention of new people it's frustrating that this sort of thing seems to garner so much attention.
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Jun 11, 2015 10:47
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I've posted my thoughts about it in the 40k thread but really, I think of it as the airbrushing equivalent of basecoat+drybrush.
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Jun 11, 2015 11:33
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Thanks guys, I was unaware of a dedicated thread for the Reaper stuff. I just saw the basic supply stuff in the OP. Ordered some army painter White, green stuff, Zap-A-Gap and some brushes from the war store, gonna grab a bunch of P3 paints in store I think. Again, I've never been super into the modeling side when I still played wargames, but I really didn't notice much that'd require flush cutters or a knife : shrug:
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Jun 11, 2015 13:47
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krushgroove posted:I have a question for you guys...about models like this: It looks like hot dog-poo poo. From a distance it's a blurred mess, akin to low-res textures in a video game; up close, you'd see all these details and parts that weren't painted, of which there seems to be plenty. It's a quick and simple airbrush job, which would be acceptable if you're getting something done the day before a tournament or want to experiment, but for 'pro' painting it's sloppy and lacks any proper painting skill. The guy didn't even cover up the mold line on the back thrusters, and it's plainly obvious right from that first picture. All it really serves is to wow people who think airbrushing is some mythical art that takes years of skill. The only part of that whole model I like is the base, and even then the snow looks like poo poo.
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Jun 11, 2015 14:09
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Yeah those dumb airbrush jobs take maybe 10 minutes at most. I think people who aren't into the hobby get fooled by the fades when it's p much like spraying a random pattern on a t-shirt, or tie-dye, and thinking it's hard work. Like, it looks like that dude just sprayed some figure 8s on the figure and called it a day.
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Jun 11, 2015 14:53
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Attestant posted:They also have issues with spray primers. Some don't stick properly. Quoting the Reaper thread OP: Regarding the Rustoleum Ultra cover 2x- use a toothbrush on it if it occurs after it dries to get rid of some of the tackiness. It'll then be nice and smooth.
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Jun 11, 2015 19:31
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So I've had two consecutive cans of Armory gray primer sort of go wonky on me. It gets to where the primer won't spray continually and will just spit out a little primer then just fire off air periodically. What am I doing wrong? I shake the hell out of the can and it still does this.
Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jun 11, 2015 |
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Jun 11, 2015 21:10
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Unzip and Attack posted:So I've had two consecutive cans of Armory gray primer sort of go wonky on me. It gets to where the primer won't spray continually and will just spit out a little primer then just fire off air periodically. What am I doing wrong? I shake the hell out of the can and it still does this. Armory is just really lovely primer. It used to be what I bought from my hobby shop and aside from one can of white, they were all crap. Use Krylon.
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Jun 11, 2015 21:24
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SRM posted:Armory is just really lovely primer. It used to be what I bought from my hobby shop and aside from one can of white, they were all crap. Use Krylon. Seconded. I started out using Armory because it was cheap; turns out you get what you pay for. My results were inconsistent at best, except when I was getting near the end of a can, at which point the fuzziness became constant no matter how long I shook it. Then I got an airbrush and discovered the joy of Vallejo Surface Primer and zenithal priming and I've never looked back. VSP is brushable as well, which is a nice bonus (I've done 2-tone priming via brushing on occasion). If you don't want to go the airbrush route, I hear good things about Army Painter and Krylon rattlecan sprays; many of the other posters can give you better data on those.
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Jun 11, 2015 21:49
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 Looking for some advice on painting the "sac" and tube in the model's left hand. I started with bugman's glow and shaded with carrobourg and reikland fleshshade. Not sure where to go from there. (not my model)
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Jun 12, 2015 02:46
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Sorry it took a while. here are the images.    another and probably easier / cheaper way would be to use a rubber chair leg tip. drill a hole in the center. Take a bolt with a washer on the inside insert into the leg tip, put a washer on the other side, then a nut to hold it in place. Something like this would work  
LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jun 12, 2015 |
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Jun 12, 2015 03:54
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