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Dr. Gargunza posted:Seconded. I started out using Armory because it was cheap; turns out you get what you pay for.
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Jun 12, 2015 04:01
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"Armory Primer has John Kovalic artwork on the label!" "Well, Munchkin has John Kovalic artwork all through it, and that game is tearing our friends apart." --conversation I should've had with myself before buying Armory primer
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Jun 12, 2015 08:39
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LumberingTroll posted:another and probably easier / cheaper way would be to use a rubber chair leg tip. drill a hole in the center. Take a bolt with a washer on the inside insert into the leg tip, put a washer on the other side, then a nut to hold it in place. I can confirm that it works.   
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Jun 12, 2015 10:37
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Nice and simple :-)
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Jun 12, 2015 13:05
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hi. I've missed painting for a while. Most likely need to re-buy some paint. I have several million models needing paint, and most likely am not going to be able to unload them unpainted. so, have some crappy pictures and feel free to shame away, the decals look like crap because I hate decals, so i feel obligated to try to handpaint everything. Some are WiP so.. yeah..  away... An army banner, the parchmenty paper thingies are polystyrene melted with a small torch and stretched interestingly.  Another one, just needs another 2 detail passes or so.  I like the way this one turned out.  One of my earlier attempts at a chaplain, but hey someone asked about a purple power sword, I like that one..  I like painting power weapons.... and terminators, the forge world-y bits are really rad.  I tend to paint squad bases in a similar color for organization-y purposes.  HEY ANOTHER PURPLE POWER WEAPON!!!  I enjoy the SUPER DYNAMIC ACTION modeling as well.. I think I spent about an hour modeling a marine reloading once.  HEY ITS SOMETHING DONE! (which is rather unusual for me ever to say. )  HEY ITS SOMETHING SO FAR FROM DONE ITS SAD! (which is what the majority of the time I'd say)  uhm. other wips  titan armor diorama in progress.  the wall of shame (its sad that there is still more)  thanks for making me think about painting again thread, these are just the pictures i had on my phone.
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Jun 12, 2015 13:48
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That Thunderhawk cannot be stable on that crappy camera mount. Nothing is ever stable on those.
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Jun 12, 2015 14:35
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MasterSlowPoke posted:That Thunderhawk cannot be stable on that crappy camera mount. Nothing is ever stable on those. There is a steel threaded rod epoxied through the thunderhawk with horizontal anchors, and into the camera mount. the swivel mount has been sealed into position for exactly the reason you mentioned. I plan to do a more artsy flying base at some point.
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Jun 12, 2015 14:42
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magnetbox posted:
According to the GW Invasion Swarm painting guide: after shading with reikland fleshade you are to: 8) Layer raised areas with Bugman's Glow 9) Highlight with Cadian Fleshtone 10) add Kislev Flesh highlights I haven't done it myself but the step by step pictures look like what you are trying to achieve. HTH
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Jun 12, 2015 16:10
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mentos posted:According to the GW Invasion Swarm painting guide: after shading with reikland fleshade you are to: Thanks! I was considering buying that book just to see if they had anything about that "skin". Appreciated.
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Jun 12, 2015 16:13
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Goonshaming is my trigger! Is the chip in the sword a detail you added or a blemish on the model? Either way, it looks rad.. He's been beating on heretics all day, sword is gettin' damaged.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:36
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Post 9-11 User posted:Goonshaming is my trigger! I'm assuming im the target... what model you talkin bout willis?
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Jun 12, 2015 17:38
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SneakyFrog posted:Another one, just needs another 2 detail passes or so. Awww no, you guys  a lightning bolt hit that guy's castle. He's got no clothes, now he won't have a place to stay. 
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Jun 12, 2015 18:14
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Awww no, you guys yeah they have some weird stuff in the old codex's, and they don't explain it at all. maybe the lightning bolt vaporized em.
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Jun 12, 2015 18:23
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So after being able to happily drybrush my way through my Minotaurs for the past month, I tried painting some eBay nids in my test scheme. gently caress painting tyranids. I'm glad I only spent ~£20 on some Gargoyles because this sucks.
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Jun 12, 2015 19:35
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Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. I think part of it is just looking at them in photos, because in real life, and especially on the table, they look just fine. The faces on these were just a base coat and 1 highlight. I did do the eyes on the king but you can't even tell unless its like 6 inches from your face. 
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Jun 12, 2015 19:50
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SneakyFrog posted:yeah they have some weird stuff in the old codex's, and they don't explain it at all. maybe the lightning bolt vaporized em. It's obviously the destruction of Caliban. It has lava, an explodey castle, and a fallen angel
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Jun 12, 2015 19:52
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Hixson posted:It's obviously the destruction of Caliban. It has lava, an explodey castle, and a fallen angel ..... I really should know that.
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Jun 12, 2015 20:35
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nesbit37 posted:Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. I think part of it is just looking at them in photos, because in real life, and especially on the table, they look just fine. The faces on these were just a base coat and 1 highlight. I did do the eyes on the king but you can't even tell unless its like 6 inches from your face. Washes work wonders at that scale. For 10mm, you can't make out enough detail to care at a 3 foot distance, so don't go crazy.
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Jun 12, 2015 20:36
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nesbit37 posted:Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. I think part of it is just looking at them in photos, because in real life, and especially on the table, they look just fine. The faces on these were just a base coat and 1 highlight. I did do the eyes on the king but you can't even tell unless its like 6 inches from your face Wash, highlight, done. If you want eyes a single half-transparent black dot is enough. The golden rule is the smaller the model, the more pronounced the shading should be.
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Jun 12, 2015 21:24
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ijyt posted:So after being able to happily drybrush my way through my Minotaurs for the past month, I tried painting some eBay nids in my test scheme. My scheme for tyranids (which I don't' even play, I just have a bunch of models) is white primer>red on the carapace>seraphim sepia all over>white on the eyes>grey on the weapons>biel-tan green wash on the weapons. This is pretty much Hive Fleet Kraken. Quite possibly the quickest and easiest painting I've ever done, and while the results won't blow anyone away, they are a very good tabletop standard, and I sometimes find myself wishing, after painting the belts on guardsmen or some poo poo, that I had just picked tyranids for my primary army in the first place. SO easy.
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Jun 12, 2015 22:25
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Today just makes me want to throw everything paint related in the loving bin. Painting a librarian for a contest, get a great smooth and neat basecoat on the robes. Leave to walk the dog, come back and the robes have a scattering of tiny bumps and bubbles that weren't there before. I hate this poo poo.
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Jun 12, 2015 22:28
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If so inclined, just how yonic can you make some Tyranids? Is making your opponent intentionally uncomfortable with paint-schemes and conversions a legitimate tactic?
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Jun 13, 2015 00:29
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Pierzak posted:Wash, highlight, done. If you want eyes a single half-transparent black dot is enough. The golden rule is the smaller the model, the more pronounced the shading should be. Yeah, I bet if you spent three dollars or so on a micropen and went nuts on those models it would look great. Excellent investment, I underestimated it completely.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:07
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Fsmhunk posted:If so inclined, just how yonic can you make some Tyranids? Is making your opponent intentionally uncomfortable with paint-schemes and conversions a legitimate tactic? Historically Slaanesh is the go-to for that sort of thing, but Tyranids are actually an excellent idea as they give you more plausible deniability.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:50
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nesbit37 posted:Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. Definitely listen to what's been said about washes. I like Army Painter Soft Tone for almost everything. Something else you might want to try is facial hair. Mix a dark grey with your fleshtone, and then go to town with moustaches, beards, sideburns, etc. It might take a few goes before they click, but it's absolutely worth practicing. Another thing to try out is varying your skin colors. Even in armies that weren't historically diverse, there's still room for subtle variation.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:52
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JerryLee posted:Historically Slaanesh is the go-to for that sort of thing, but Tyranids are actually an excellent idea as they give you more plausible deniability. Hey man I don't know what you're talking about, that's how a Haruspex is supposed to look.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:00
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Fsmhunk posted:Hey man I don't know what you're talking about, that's how a Haruspex is supposed to look. I can't remember the wonderful human being who did it, but somebody in here had Rainbow nids that were A) gorgeous and B) sure to cause a backup of bile in the shitheads who ruin everything even slightly fun with their putrescent shitheadedness. Heads full of poo poo. Poop.
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Jun 13, 2015 05:56
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Under 15 posted:Yeah, I bet if you spent three dollars or so on a micropen and went nuts on those models it would look great. Excellent investment, I underestimated it completely. Can't be arsed, I use a size 3 brush  TheCosmicMuffet posted:I can't remember the wonderful human being who did it, but somebody in here had Rainbow nids that were A) gorgeous and B) sure to cause a backup of bile in the shitheads who ruin everything even slightly fun with their putrescent shitheadedness. Heads full of poo poo. Poop. Yeah, they were awesome, someone please repost Hive Fleet Skittles. 
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Jun 13, 2015 14:06
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Thanks all, Lots of things to try with those 10mm figures. I like the micro pen idea, had not even considered that.
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Jun 13, 2015 16:02
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Just finished another Tactical Squad! I decided to forgo transfers on these guys and try doing an all-freehand-all-the-time thing. I'm reasonably happy with the results, although it took significantly longer than just doing some decal work. Unfortunately the sergeant doesn't have his banner since my printer kicked the bucket, but if I ever get a new one he'll get a flag to wave. This was my first time getting to assemble and paint the old multipart plastic Marines from 2nd ed, and they were a joy to put together. The detail on their chestplates was pretty shallow, unfortunately, but they beat the pants off the "I love my bolter" Marines. I think the sergeant (actually a Dark Angels sergeant) is my favorite sergeant model of the era, and the metal flamer Marine might be my favorite Marine sculpt of the era. It's just such a satisfyingly chunky model, and he's posed perfectly for what he's doing.         
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Jun 13, 2015 17:12
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SneakyFrog posted:I'm assuming im the I'm trying to use quote less often but in this case it sabotaged the clarity of my post. The Goonshaming comment was something about spending or liking space dollies that occurred earlier in the thread. I was referring to the photo of this gender-less inanimate object:
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Jun 13, 2015 18:28
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Post 9-11 User posted:I'm trying to use quote less often but in this case it sabotaged the clarity of my post. The Goonshaming comment was something about spending or liking space dollies that occurred earlier in the thread. I was referring to the photo of this gender-less inanimate object: O ok. The chip is entirely an accident that came from me clipping it off the sprue poorly. It does look kinda cool though! Speaking of which, I hate it when the sprue attaches to models on edges and other small complex shapes. I'm sure they use some modeling software that auto places sprue location during mold design for best results, but it still sucks.
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Jun 13, 2015 18:39
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Hey everyone! I'm a Warmachine player, with not a lot of experience painting (used to play warhammer years ago and I think it is a good thing I cannot find my imperial fists as they would belong in the painting unispiration thread), and decided to try my hand at NMM Chrome, however all the tutorials I can find list how to paint an Earth And Sky technique, but what if something metallic is blocking the reflection? I don't know how to paint the part that is directly adyacent to the shoulders, as it would necesarily reflect the shoulders, but what color would the reflection be? edit: Thinking about it I could also just paint the very edges of the plates adyacent to the shoulders white, and paint the sky as normal. papasyhotcakes fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jun 13, 2015 |
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Jun 13, 2015 21:28
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Don't do earth and sky technique. Look up some NMM tutorials that look good, earth and sky looks terrible.
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Jun 14, 2015 10:30
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Thundercloud posted:Don't do earth and sky technique. AGREED. friends dont let friends do paintjobs that only look good from 1-2 angles.
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Jun 14, 2015 13:01
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Oh ok, then I will look into another NMM techniques, into the simple green it goes .
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Jun 14, 2015 13:15
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papasyhotcakes posted:Oh ok, then I will look into another NMM techniques, into the simple green it goes If you've not laid on the paint too thick just respray it black.
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Jun 14, 2015 16:38
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Hixson posted:O ok. The chip is entirely an accident that came from me clipping it off the sprue poorly. It does look kinda cool though! I prefer to twist stuff off the sprue and clean it up, (cleaning must be done even when detaching bits with clippers or razors, anyway) and that is the worst thing. Some fragile, tiny thing that has a half dozen thick attachment blocks is a nuisance. In this case, it blends in seamlessly. He's been slaughtering heretics all day, maybe the chip was on the downstroke and he reversed his grip on the sword or it happened on the backstroke. Take that sword back to the forge, you have forged the narrative. What a lovely job!
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Jun 14, 2015 17:34
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SRM posted:Just finished another Tactical Squad! I decided to forgo transfers on these guys and try doing an all-freehand-all-the-time thing. I'm reasonably happy with the results, although it took significantly longer than just doing some decal work. Unfortunately the sergeant doesn't have his banner since my printer kicked the bucket, but if I ever get a new one he'll get a flag to wave. This was my first time getting to assemble and paint the old multipart plastic Marines from 2nd ed, and they were a joy to put together. The detail on their chestplates was pretty shallow, unfortunately, but they beat the pants off the "I love my bolter" Marines. I think the sergeant (actually a Dark Angels sergeant) is my favorite sergeant model of the era, and the metal flamer Marine might be my favorite Marine sculpt of the era. It's just such a satisfyingly chunky model, and he's posed perfectly for what he's doing. Love those checkerboard patterns. Is there any particular trick to them (beyond, I assume, having steady hands?)?
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Jun 14, 2015 18:39
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Ghost of Babyhead posted:Love those checkerboard patterns. Is there any particular trick to them (beyond, I assume, having steady hands?)? I can't speak for SRM, but from my own experience, using an artist pen is your best bet for checkered patterns barring an airbrush and stencil. Grab one of the Micron pents, size .01 or .005; these are great tools to have and are perfect for drawing out patterns, lettering, or anything else you think might require black lines over smooth surfaces. Usually found at Michaels and AC Moore if you're in the states. When doing checkers, apply white paint beforehand--this is just easier and less of a hassle to fill in later. Whenever using one of these pens, be sure to put on a layer of matte varnish first, otherwise you run the risk of ruining the paint and/or the tip of the pen. You can either fill in the black squares with the pen, or use paint, and it will depend on the size of the checkers (small infantry-sized ones, may as well use the pen).
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Jun 14, 2015 19:19
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