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Mr. Mambold posted:What do you say when your wife wants something that goes against all the rules of woodworking, the Surgeon General says DONT DO IT, it's right there in the 10 commandments of woodworking- and she won't be convinced otherwise? You buy that new tool you need to make it, of course!
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Jun 14, 2015 21:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:You say "yes dear". I this meant to be one of those mystery "guess the differences" games, like at the bars?
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Jun 14, 2015 21:26
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Cobalt60 posted:I this meant to be one of those mystery "guess the differences" games, like at the bars? No. See the smudges in the bottom corners of the 'before'? That's from 25 years of grubby kids' hands....and no pulls. I cleaned them up and re-oiled, which is the gameplan for the whole kitchen.
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Jun 14, 2015 21:29
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Deedle posted:If it's pressure treated, the preservation crap will generally be all through the wood. Sounds sensible, thanks.
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Jun 14, 2015 22:48
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I've been building up a wood shop for a few years now. Up to this point, it's almost always been used for repairs and rehab due to my buying a 110 year old house. But now I have finally stepped into actual woodworking/cabinetry. Each project, I've been adding a skill or two to build on the previous project. The first three were the result of having too many overfilled, sagging, decomposing particle board flat-pack bookcases. I needed something better. So, first project:  A bookcase for most of my library. It's 8 feet high and 9 feet wide. Most of my walls are plaster but this section is stud and drywall so I picked it to screw the case into. It's pretty simple, my focus was on cutting it to size and making it square. The uprights are 3/4" plywood, the 8 foot horizontal segments are edge glued 1x6 pine. The shelves themselves are either 3/4 plywood or edge-glued 1x6 pine - I used up the plywood that didn't go to the uprights and supplemented with pine, held by furring strips made from the 3/4 plywood. The backing is 1/4" plywood. I used off the shelf trim for the facing. Second project:  The big bookcase held most of my library but not all so I needed more shelving. This one I made completely out of edge-glued pine with plywood backing and it uses dowel joints instead of screws like the first bookcase. For this one I spent more time on the finish so it's a lot smoother and nicer than the first one. Third project:  The first two bookcases held all my trade books, but my professional library needed a home too. This bookcase goes in my home office and contains textbooks I found useful enough to keep plus my woodworking, sewing, and auto repair books. This is also all edge glued pine with plywood backing and dowel joints. The new skills for this were routing the edges instead of trim-nailing facing and making cabinet doors. I used frame and panel construction for the doors. You can't see it too well in the picture but I also scrollsawed a couple fleurs-de-lis for the cabinet doors to be more decorative. I've been learning a lot and making mistakes (peep them panel gaps on the cabinet), but that's why I'm using cheap pine lumber. I have to plane it pretty heavily but again - I'd rather learn and make mistakes on $2.00 pine 1x6 boards than expensive stuff. It's still nice than storebought flat pack poo poo. Next project will be a blanket box, work on my decorative construction and maybe use box joints. Using the lessons from that I want to make a hall tree/butler.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:No. See the smudges in the bottom corners of the 'before'? That's from 25 years of grubby kids' hands....and no pulls. I cleaned them up and re-oiled, which is the gameplan for the whole kitchen. From the build up I thought this was going to be 'stain cherry to look like walnut' or something like that.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:50
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wormil posted:Picked up 80 bd ft of 5/4 ERC today for $2.50/bd ft, about 95% heartwood. It's been air drying for 11 years. I can smell it in the house. Now I have a lot of planing to do. wormil posted:It doesn't all look this good but it's some pretty nice cedar. Milling it down is a lot of work though. At this point I have it planed to a consistent thickness and rough cut to length. I'm going to plane it once more then straighten the edges. Little update. In the last post I was overly optimistic, it wasn't actually consistent and I had to plane it many more times. I have never worked with lumber so rough. This cedar had compound tapers so several times it got jammed in my planer. It was supposed to be 5/4 when milled but it's about 1". Some of it was really nice, some wasn't, there was a good bit of waste. But progress has been made. I'm actually farther along than this but need to take more pictures. The sun saps the pretty reddish color quickly and turns it tan. 
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Jun 15, 2015 04:01
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I'm going to be building some rails for my terrace and this is the design I want: I think it's a simple design despite looking complicated, the balusters could be easily cut by hot gluing a bunch together and cutting it out on the bandsaw, or using a router table and stop blocks. The chamfers on the posts could be done the same way with the router table. The rails on the top and bottom just need a center dado cut in them big enough to accomodate the balusters, that's probably easiest done on the table saw. If i wanted a stopped dado I might consider the router table and a plunge cut but I have no spiral bits and they seem hard to find for 8mm shank routers. (EDIT: Also there's not going to be enough space to bother with that) Attaching the rails to the posts, I think a self-centering dowel jig and glue or construction adhesive might be a good solution. Mortise and tenon would work well but require a lot of handtool work for me and my toolset. I am open to suggestions here. The part I am not sure about is the top cap, the very shallow pyramid cap I am not sure how to make. I suppose if I had a big enough piece of wood ike a 5x5 or 6x6 then I could cut it in 4 cuts using a tilted blade on my bandsaw and with a miter gauge. Or tilting the blade on my table saw and using the sliding table. Then I make a straight cut to remove the completed pyramid cap. Or perhaps I could make it from a bunch of boards and some compound miter joints, that would save material, but I am not quite sure on how to accomplish that. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 11:48
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wormil posted:From the build up I thought this was going to be 'stain cherry to look like walnut' or something like that. Hahaha. I'll only go so far, I think that would have been grounds for divorce. e. that reminded me that I had given my oldest daughter an oval cherry table top I made years ago. When she covered it with black latex, I repossessed it. Another stripping project... Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 14:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:The part I am not sure about is the top cap, the very shallow pyramid cap I am not sure how to make. I suppose if I had a big enough piece of wood ike a 5x5 or 6x6 then I could cut it in 4 cuts using a tilted blade on my bandsaw and with a miter gauge. Or tilting the blade on my table saw and using the sliding table. Then I make a straight cut to remove the completed pyramid cap. Stand on edge and run through the tablesaw with the blade set to a shallow angle like 10 degrees to cut the peak. If you want to get fancy, cut a shallow (1/8") groove on the underside near each edge for a drip edge. Any water running underneath will stop at the groove rather than wick underneath the the cap.
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Jun 15, 2015 16:27
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I'm gonna be that guy again. What are peoples thoughts on this lathe for $80? I asked the seller for more information on the size, how well it worked, how old it is, etc. No answer yet. It's rare to see them this cheap in my area so hoping to jump on it if it's a decent buy. I'm mostly interested in bowl turning if that helps.
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Jun 15, 2015 17:02
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I'm gonna be that guy again. Depends how much work you're willing to do. The only real problem I see is the corrosion on the rails, if it's badly pitted its a no go. If it's only surficial you can clean it up a bunch of different ways. It looks like a 48" lathe, so usually about ~30" between centers. That rail corrosion is worrisome the more I look at it though.
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Jun 15, 2015 17:08
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I'm gonna be that guy again. If the motor works, I'd get it. Those oldies are generally built like a brick shithouse.
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Jun 15, 2015 19:32
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I'm gonna be that guy again. The one thing that would hold me back is that lathe has a 7/8x14 inboard spindle and a 3/4x16 outboard spindle. Why does that matter? Well the 7/8 is an oddball size so check ebay for accessories like faceplates, spur drives, taps, and chuck adapters so you know what you are in for. I don't see a 7/8x14 adapter for the Nova chuck. Oneway does sell a 7/8x14 adapter. The other issue is the inboard and outboard being different sizes. I guess practically it makes no difference since they are always threaded opposite anyway (left hand vs right hand) so it's not like you can share faceplates. Doesn't look like it has a Morse taper on the headstock which is not a deal breaker but would have made getting spur drives easier. It wouldn't be my first choice for a lathe but it's doable, probably not something you'll keep for more than a year or two. Offer $50.
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Jun 15, 2015 21:45
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Thanks for the advice. I decided to prod the guy for more info and he didn't leave me very confident about it. So the hunt continues. Good call Wormil too. I didn't think to check out accessories prices when considering the buy.
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Jun 16, 2015 15:05
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Has anyone ever worked through a carpenter apprentice program? I am looking at the program(s) offered by the United Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners of America and wondered if that was the only way to go as far as proper carpentry work/training.
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Jun 16, 2015 17:37
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Thanks for the advice. I decided to prod the guy for more info and he didn't leave me very confident about it. So the hunt continues. I have 3 old lathes so I'm getting the hang of it.
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Jun 18, 2015 19:13
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Picked up that 1HP dust collector. First time I used it I basically realized Im gonna want a chip separator. I sucked up some chunks and they made a just awful noise as it rocketed through the system. Worried I was gonna break it the day I got it... Anyone have any good suggestions on plans? I was thinking of maybe modifying the woodgears one so it fits under the lid a large garbage can as a single bucket cyclone, rather than 2. Mostly to save space as I don't want this thing to be massive, but im not sure if thats the best solution. Adding some fencing like this so I can use normal trash bags also seems like a great idea.  It also makes a pretty bad whining sound when it reaches full speed. It has a corrugated hose though and google suggests that's why. I want to eventually pipe it around my garage and Id use PVC there so I think that will resolve that issue. I hope anyways! keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 21:46
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:It also makes a pretty bad whining sound when it reaches full speed. It has a corrugated hose though and google suggests that's why. I want to eventually pipe it around my garage and Id use PVC there so I think that will resolve that issue. I hope anyways! I have that issue on my shop vac / cyclone setup, I can't run with just my 2.5" flex tube, it'll sing like crazy. Stick your hand in the hose while it's going, it'll stop or at least change tone if it is harmonic resonance. Luckily my DC system doesn't have that issue.
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Jun 18, 2015 21:54
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I hope this is the right place to ask, can you guys give me some advice for starting to whittle? I'm going on an archaeological dig in the middle of nowhere and thought it would be a good opportunity to pick up a hobby. I'm just going to start off with an Opinel carbon steel pocket knife and some wood and give it a go. What am I missing?
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Jun 20, 2015 08:29
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TheLawinator posted:What am I missing? Maybe make a strop and take some compound along to keep the knife sharp?
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Jun 20, 2015 12:39
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Some sort of cut-proof gloves might also be useful to guard against slips. And some CA glue to fix them 
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Jun 20, 2015 12:48
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TheLawinator posted:I hope this is the right place to ask, can you guys give me some advice for starting to whittle? I'm going on an archaeological dig in the middle of nowhere and thought it would be a good opportunity to pick up a hobby. I'm just going to start off with an Opinel carbon steel pocket knife and some wood and give it a go. What am I missing? A chunk of petrified wood so you can salt your dig should do the trick, but use flint knives only ffs. You can pick them both up at Bob's Petrified Lumber Supply.
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Jun 20, 2015 14:30
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MrPete posted:Maybe make a strop and take some compound along to keep the knife sharp? That's by far the most important part. You might also want another shorter knife. I've found it a lot easier to whittle with a sub two inch blade.
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Jun 20, 2015 14:41
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Already have gloves and a sharpener. I think I'll just leave it at the one knife since I can use it on site and for the hobby. I'll try to make some chess pieces or something.
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Jun 20, 2015 14:57
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TheLawinator posted:Already have gloves and a sharpener. I think I'll just leave it at the one knife since I can use it on site and for the hobby. I'll try to make some chess pieces or something. If you learn to whittle correctly, you won't need the gloves. Proper carving maximizes leverage while always pointing the blade away from your body. It's pretty cool when you see it done.
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Jun 20, 2015 17:31
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TheLawinator posted:Already have gloves and a sharpener. I think I'll just leave it at the one knife since I can use it on site and for the hobby. I'll try to make some chess pieces or something. ~Seriouspost~ Iirc, basswood is a favored whittling, carving wood. It's soft, pine is soft, cedar is soft. Hardwoods like red and white oak, southern ash are harder.
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Jun 20, 2015 19:39
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When I was a kid, I was whittling unsupervised in the back yard and holding things wrong and nearly took off the fleshy pad of my thumb. I still have a scar there and it's been over 20 years. So I guess my advice is watch your fingers and don't do that.
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Jun 20, 2015 21:09
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Woodwright's shop has some good episodes on carving and whittling. The Peter Follansbee one is pretty good and there is another with a Swedish (?) guy who does your basic Mora knife whittling. Those should still be online.
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Jun 20, 2015 21:28
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Thanks guys. I'm going to have to bring all the wood I'll be using with me as the place I'm going is treeless and I probably won't have access to anything imported. Any other suggestions for simple small items?
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Jun 20, 2015 22:31
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Paul sellers has some videos of carving a spoon I think. He shows the whole process from green branch or log to using his ax for basic forming to the final carving and shaping I think.
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Jun 21, 2015 00:59
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Here's a video from the Woodwright's Shop of some spoon carving: http://video.pbs.org/video/2172740518/
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Jun 21, 2015 02:03
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My router that's in my router table is acting weird, it doesn't want to keep the speed consistent. It mostly keeps at the proper speed but it goes up and down in RPM randomly, random dips and rises that is. Anyone know what the reason might be? Worn brushes, worn bearings, bad electronics?
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Jun 21, 2015 11:00
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His Divine Shadow posted:My router that's in my router table is acting weird, it doesn't want to keep the speed consistent. It mostly keeps at the proper speed but it goes up and down in RPM randomly, random dips and rises that is. Anyone know what the reason might be? Worn brushes, worn bearings, bad electronics? edit- it could be a bearing, which is also something that should last for years, if not decades. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 13:26
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It's variable speed out of the box, it is a pretty cheap router called Parkside 1300W, from german chain called Lidl. I've had it opened and performed surgery on it to make it fit my router table. I didn't think I damaged anything while doing so, but who knows. It really screams loudly and while routers are loud, this is uncomfortable with protection on. At any rate being such a cheap item I was thinking the bearings might have given up early, probably the cheapest chinese bearings they could find. Perhaps replacing them with some SKF or FAG high quality bearings could help.
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Jun 21, 2015 15:29
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My yard has a couple big Bradford Pears that have been dropping branches for a year and it's time to take them down. Will this wood be useful for anything other than firewood? edit googling says yes! I haven't measured, but at a glance I'll have two flawless trunks at about 7ft length and 12-13" diameter. I want a lathe, now. i say swears online fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 18:11
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Been making some more shop drawers, got 3 so far, I'll have 10 or so when it's done, and two big rolling on the floor itself, also need some false fronts. Using whatever recycled material I can get my hands on. ¨ More socket organizing todo, the plane in the background will get mounted in its own holder on the wall.  Reused the old plastic trays from this cheapo organizer, now I got it off the workbench at least.  Also I made this, a drill powered grass seed thrower. I had a whole lawn to see and using only my hands didn't appeal so I threw this together and seeded the whole lawn in an hour.  Gonna be making more drawers and loads of boxes ala marius hornberger, but not that extreme.... His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 19:27
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Aliquid posted:My yard has a couple big Bradford Pears that have been dropping branches for a year and it's time to take them down. Will this wood be useful for anything other than firewood? You got it, they are valued by turners, not so much by anyone else.
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Jun 21, 2015 23:02
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What are some interesting things to turn out? What's a good project difficulty progression? Plates seem pretty easy and an efficient use of wood; vases seem more complex. Any beginners turning guides you could point me toward? As for non-turned projects, what about a segmented cutting board? Fruitwood is avoided as outdoor-project wood because of significant warping / damage from the elements, right?
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Jun 22, 2015 03:12
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Aliquid posted:As for non-turned projects, what about a segmented cutting board? I'd say this really depends on how hard the wood is. You don't want to use a soft wood (not a softwood, but a wood that isn't hard) for a cutting board, because it'll get marked up and the dents can hold food/microbes.
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Jun 22, 2015 03:50
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