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Cross posting the progress on my bikes. Warlock is not done yet and the roses still need to be added and then a coat or two of matte varnish applied. The lines may look a little uneven in a few of the photos but that's just the bike contours and the contrast of the white - in reality they're pretty straight. The Farseer and Warlock hoods are all white because I plan on a lot of roses/vines there.    For the record, I loving hate the new flying stands.
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Jun 14, 2015 21:07
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Boon posted:For the record, I loving hate the new flying stands. They look like the flying stands from 3rd edition. They allowed you to freely pose the models on that axis but broke all the time.
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Jun 14, 2015 23:16
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Ghost of Babyhead posted:Love those checkerboard patterns. Is there any particular trick to them (beyond, I assume, having steady hands?)?
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Jun 14, 2015 23:23
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You can stick a strip of masking tape on to your cutting board and slice thin strips out of it. Use those to mask out perfect checker patterns if you want. 3M's blue tape is perfect for use on acrylic surfaces, won't damage them at all and sticking it to a clean surface first won't effect the tack. Just make sure to use a soft rubber eraser or a Q-tip or something to burnish down the tape prior to painting. Will help to avoid getting a raised edge when you lift up the tape.
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Jun 14, 2015 23:56
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Painting a squat
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Jun 15, 2015 04:55
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magnetbox posted:Painting a squat That looks incredible, I dig the hair tones. Oops, didn't realize how bad I was at this. Image expunged. BashfulBanana fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 06:09
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magnetbox posted:Painting a squat Woah, who made that model?
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Jun 15, 2015 09:12
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I think it's one of the subscription only White Dwarf figures from GW. Loving the hair and the rebellion-orange jumpsuit 
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Jun 15, 2015 10:27
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Yeah, the paint job is great, but I can't get over how awesome a model this is
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Jun 15, 2015 11:31
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Post 9-11 User posted:They look like the flying stands from 3rd edition. They allowed you to freely pose the models on that axis but broke all the time. Couldn't you just not use the stupid swivel bit? I am thankful I never ran into them personally, but I have seen the photos. When I was looking for base suppliers for my starships I found that having that little tilting bit made the base cost like 20x more than a plain one.
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Jun 15, 2015 13:38
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Z the IVth posted:Couldn't you just not use the stupid swivel bit? I am thankful I never ran into them personally, but I have seen the photos. When I was looking for base suppliers for my starships I found that having that little tilting bit made the base cost like 20x more than a plain one. the clear flying stands suck. I end up making most of my own flying bases for that reason.
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Jun 15, 2015 15:20
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"Ima comin' fer yer scalp next..."
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Jun 15, 2015 17:04
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Z the IVth posted:Couldn't you just not use the stupid swivel bit? I am thankful I never ran into them personally, but I have seen the photos. When I was looking for base suppliers for my starships I found that having that little tilting bit made the base cost like 20x more than a plain one. It's a cool concept: since there is a pedestal for the model that sits on, it allows this zooming, fast-moving thing to be posed in different ways, that's neat! It cannot be done with models that are on the ground. It's hardly any different than how the Dreadnaught model is really, really good because the arms can be snug-fit for both removing destroyed weapons and posing during different "scenes" of a game. This is a dumb game, posing our silly space warriors is fun! But, someone engineered the shape and chose a material that is not only too brittle for a snap-fit rotating bracket to inevitably break but also too brittle to even support... Come on, the little tiny peg at the end of the very, very brittle pedestal is just as bad and it still haunts our collective nightmares. Have even the basic flying bases changed? I'm pretty sure they're the same clear plastic that has a tiny peg on the end to mount models. It's the reason why every salty modeler familiar with this game tells new players to bore out the mounting hole so that the ENTIRE flying stand can be snugly stuck inside. At least Citadel had the sense to make the column tapered instead of a cylinder, that would be a nightmare beyond nightmares... like getting Ebola then infecting your family with it by mistake! (Okay, maybe none of these modeling snafu's matter and it's not that bad).
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Jun 15, 2015 22:58
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I'm new to airbrushing but am gonna be looking to pick one up soon. I know there are goon recommendations for them already. My question is painting area / ventilation / etc. I live in SoCal so I should be able to just do this poo poo on my apartment balcony, right? Get a little table, set up a box/etc to catch overspill, wear a good mask, call it a day? Are there any concerns with ambient temperature for airbrushing?
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Jun 16, 2015 01:23
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Help me painting goons! I am painting this guy pink for my daughter. Everything was going fine until I started the final layer. I've been using a glaze technique to get to the point in this photo: When I started the final layer I got this:  It goes on rather grainy. It is Vallejo squid pink. Do I need to give him a simple green bath and start over? I wouldn't be too upset if that were the case. PyroDwarf fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 03:03
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ijyt posted:Yeah, the paint job is great, but I can't get over how awesome a model this is wha Did that dwarf catch a goblin that was pretending to be a gray alien
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Jun 16, 2015 03:43
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That's the black goblin.
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Jun 16, 2015 04:08
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Sigma-X posted:I'm new to airbrushing but am gonna be looking to pick one up soon. I know there are goon recommendations for them already. Sup duder. Sweet new avatar. I see the games industry is still treating you swell. You'll be fine with that setup. I live in San Francisco and my work station is basically a desk near a well ventilated window. If I do a lot of work I fire up a fan so it goes out the window. Otherwise I just wear a good respirator (don't just buy a cloth mask, those basically do nothing). Humidity and temperature can help or hinder your paint job, but with the stable dry climate we have it's not an issue.
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Jun 16, 2015 04:15
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Post 9-11 User posted:It's a cool concept: since there is a pedestal for the model that sits on, it allows this zooming, fast-moving thing to be posed in different ways, that's neat! It cannot be done with models that are on the ground. It's hardly any different than how the Dreadnaught model is really, really good because the arms can be snug-fit for both removing destroyed weapons and posing during different "scenes" of a game. This is a dumb game, posing our silly space warriors is fun! I swear by that stiff floral wire stuff.
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Jun 16, 2015 12:26
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PyroDwarf posted:Help me painting goons! I am painting this guy pink for my daughter. Everything was going fine until I started the final layer. I've been using a glaze technique to get to the point in this photo: You watered it down too much and the pigment separated. There's no coming back from that except painting over it with your base colour again.
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Jun 16, 2015 12:54
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serious gaylord posted:You watered it down too much and the pigment separated. There's no coming back from that except painting over it with your base colour again. Whelp. Simple green it is. Would using thinner medium instead of water help?
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Jun 16, 2015 14:16
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PyroDwarf posted:Whelp. Simple green it is. Would using thinner medium instead of water help? Yeah, thats exactly what medium is designed to do. Keep the pigment together but just stretch it instead of separating like too much water will cause.
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Jun 16, 2015 14:35
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PyroDwarf posted:Whelp. Simple green it is. Would using thinner medium instead of water help? Yes. But even then don't over do it. Or just buy glazes.
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Jun 16, 2015 14:35
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Can't you just over paint it using a less watered down paint? It's armor, so you really won't be obscuring detail.
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Jun 16, 2015 14:40
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The face and the wolf look great so far, you could do some surgery to pull the legs off and dunk those. Light sanding might save it, maybe not. Even if you separate the legs, though, the color of the torso and legs might be different. Political cartoons bleeding into mini gaming, ohhh nooo! 
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Jun 16, 2015 19:33
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Post 9-11 User posted:The face and the wolf look great so far, you could do some surgery to pull the legs off and dunk those. Light sanding might save it, maybe not. IMO, the guy looks good. Just paint his beard braids to look like a blue-green-yellow-red rainbow, and it will look like his butt is the start of the spectrum. The wolf could use a little violet underlighting.
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Jun 16, 2015 20:03
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Post 9-11 User posted:Political cartoons bleeding into mini gaming, ohhh nooo! Not to be pedantic, but that's clearly more a reference to model hobbies rather than mini wargaming. Even without the Airfix/Blairfix pun, it's pretty clear those Labour figures are the wrong scale for wargaming  
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Jun 16, 2015 20:55
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Callidus assassin:  Bit boring to paint, so I'm happy to be done. It's probably a more interesting mini if you can do cool light source effects properly, but I'm not that good. It was a pain to assemble too - there are no guide pins for her legs, which are a) separate from the torso and b) two separate pieces. I don't think I screwed up overmuch placement-wise and yet still had to do quite a bit of greenstuffing. If you gently caress up majorly, you'll have to deal with a literal gaping rear end-crack. Topknot breakage count: 2 so far. 
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Jun 16, 2015 21:21
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Even if you were bored painting it, it still looks absolutely lovely. Those are some razor sharp highlights.
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Jun 16, 2015 21:44
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Thanks all. I was pretty happy with the wolf. However, there was an issue with primer rubbing off in some spots. There was also a bit of an issue that I'm pretty sure was the result of airbrush cleaner being dusted over the body. On a related note, I keep my airbrush really clean, but the paint was barely coming out. I had to really crank the psi. The gasket on the air hose to gun connection is shot, but air is still coming out, just with no paint. Ideas?
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Jun 16, 2015 23:12
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OneTrueBru posted::sexy: yeah. i wish i could do those light yet razor highlights 
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Jun 17, 2015 05:27
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PyroDwarf posted:On a related note, I keep my airbrush really clean, but the paint was barely coming out. I had to really crank the psi. The gasket on the air hose to gun connection is shot, but air is still coming out, just with no paint. Ideas? Maybe it's time for the whole brush to get a soak in some type of solvent/ultrasonic bath? Does water shoot out of it?
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Jun 17, 2015 05:45
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PirateDentist posted:Maybe it's time for the whole brush to get a soak in some type of solvent/ultrasonic bath? Does water shoot out of it? Water would shoot out at around 30 psi, what I had to paint at. Nothing at 15 psi or so. Took it apart and found that the needle was bent. Straightened it out and water comes out at 15-ish psi.
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Jun 17, 2015 06:33
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So I'm at a weird point with my WIP Deathwing and I'm looking for input. These are my pre-wash WIP test models, I use a deliberately sloppy drybrushing technique to tet the 'grainy/stone' effect that the camera doesn't really capture. I'm torn on a couple of things and looking for input.  I really like the ashy and muted tone of the armor and I'm trying to decide if I carry it into the rest of the model or if I should have those parts pop more.  The paints are basically dust when they hit the model, and it's done in 5 layers that didn't really show as well as I would have liked in my first batch. I'm worried that a wash will fill in the texture or reconstitute the pigments. Also just looking for feedback in general.  This is basically all base layer except for the drybrushing. I'm still up in the air about it. SkaAndScreenplays fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 09:45
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That's fantastic. Looks like older pitted steel.
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Jun 17, 2015 12:00
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If you're going to drybrush the armor like that with so much contrast you need to think more about light sourcing because right now it's causing some weird shadow stuff where your drybrush hasn't colored random parts as much as the others (tops of the shoulders). Also I assume since it's WIP you're going to still pick out a lot of the details, because right now you desperately need to break up the huge swaths of single color you have going on parts of the armor. A heavy wash will help and honestly it will help create breaks between the armor and the other colors.
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Jun 17, 2015 13:25
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EEB is right. Just use the wash as a shadow and leave it off the parts you consider to be lit (top if you're doing zenithal). The texture looks like halloween foam headstones to me. Which I think works great for the theme, but is also a little uniform in texture. Paint some wash on deliberately to act as contrast, rather than applying it all over.
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Jun 17, 2015 17:21
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:So I'm at a weird point with my WIP Deathwing and I'm looking for input. drill them barrels
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Jun 17, 2015 17:29
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Where the heck can I buy Vallejo online?
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Jun 17, 2015 18:28
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Literally The Worst posted:Where the heck can I buy Vallejo online? The War Store
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Jun 17, 2015 18:32
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