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I had to clear a CEL in my 2011 GTI again today - it's an intermittent P2187 (system too lean at idle) code. I last cleared it a few weeks ago and it popped up again today. Based on the timing of this one, it appears that it's happening when I first turn the car on, but I'm not 100% sure of that. I have a new fuel filter I've been meaning to install for a while now - I'll take care of that this weekend. Any other ideas what this could be?
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Jun 18, 2015 01:50
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obi_ant posted:Inspect axel assembly, battery, brakes and fluid, cooling system and coolant, lights, steering and suspension, ties, washer fluid and wipers. Here, an oil change and brake fluid flush run about $90 each. I can see them charging $200+ for spark plugs (though those probably didn't need to be done, yet). I can see a dealer charging north of $500 for all that. If it was needed, that's a different question. The air filters and spark plugs are easy to do for like $100 in parts total. You should do them yourself next time.
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Jun 18, 2015 01:56
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smax posted:I had to clear a CEL in my 2011 GTI again today - it's an intermittent P2187 (system too lean at idle) code. I last cleared it a few weeks ago and it popped up again today. Based on the timing of this one, it appears that it's happening when I first turn the car on, but I'm not 100% sure of that. MAF or fuel pump perhaps? Could also be a vacuum leak. You'll need a Vagcom to check out the MAF and a can of carb cleaner to look for vacuum leaks. Let me know if you have access to one and want more info.
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Jun 18, 2015 03:14
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Uthor posted:Here, an oil change and brake fluid flush run about $90 each. I can see them charging $200+ for spark plugs (though those probably didn't need to be done, yet). I can see a dealer charging north of $500 for all that. Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to hear, that I didn't get majorly ripped off. I know that I can do some of the stuff myself, but I've been super lazy and the tools aren't something I have. You're right though. I should look into doing the simple stuff.
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Jun 18, 2015 05:13
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No. 6 posted:MAF or fuel pump perhaps? Could also be a vacuum leak. You'll need a Vagcom to check out the MAF and a can of carb cleaner to look for vacuum leaks. Let me know if you have access to one and want more info. I do have a VCDS cable. What do I need to look for with the MAF/fuel pump? I'm somehow doubting the vacuum leak - this only appears to be happening intermittently and not under load. The engine doesn't seem to be running poorly at all, it's just that sometimes when I start the car up the CEL is on.
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Jun 18, 2015 13:12
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obi_ant posted:Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to hear, that I didn't get majorly ripped off. I know that I can do some of the stuff myself, but I've been super lazy and the tools aren't something I have. You're right though. I should look into doing the simple stuff. Well, you probably didn't need to have some of that work done, but it's in line with what I'd expect a dealer to charge. The cabin air filter is tool-less. The engine air filter is also tool-less, but a torx driver and/or pair of pliers make it much easier. Spark plugs are a few torx screws and a spark plug socket, but more involved. Oil changes are easy, but dirty and you need a few more tools to do them, so I get people not wanting to deal with it. At the $90 the dealer was charging me, doing it myself is totally worth it.
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Jun 18, 2015 14:15
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Uthor posted:Well, you probably didn't need to have some of that work done, but it's in line with what I'd expect a dealer to charge. I guess part of the reason that I like having someone else do it because they typically have a look around the car and can see if anything is wrong with it. I guess I could always do the 5k oil change myself and have them do and "major" tune ups. How would I clear the codes that show up?
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Jun 18, 2015 16:29
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obi_ant posted:I guess part of the reason that I like having someone else do it because they typically have a look around the car and can see if anything is wrong with it. I guess I could always do the 5k oil change myself and have them do and "major" tune ups. How would I clear the codes that show up? Do you mean the oil change reminder? That's a combination of hitting the clock button, the trip reset button and turning the key in the ignition. I never remember the exact sequence, but it's in the manual. Look up "service reminder" or something like that in the index. FYI, after the first oil change, the interval should be 10,000 miles. I split the difference and do mine at 7,500 miles as I do a lot of short trips. Also, the manual will have your service intervals. I do what's in the book, not whatever the dealer is trying to push. The dealer always seems to tack extra stuff on there.
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Jun 18, 2015 16:41
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Hi folks, this isn't exactly a mechanical question but looking around the forum this seemed to be the thread I was most likely to find some possibly very particular information. I've been browsing Golfs in my area and came across a trade-in 2014 TDI with extremely low mileage. According to that listing site, that car has been for sale nearly two months and has been marked down in price a little over $1000 in the meantime. Is there any reason this car might be wildly undesirable in this condition and age unless it were a complete lemon? Even then, it must still be well under warranty, why might someone trade it in so quickly? Unless the dealer is lying about it having some serious problems, the only reasoning I can think of besides it being terrible to drive is that the previous owner couldn't get on with driving a Diesel, and it being a Diesel also turned off anyone who looked at it. Is the 2014 TDI terrible to drive? Are they known for some monstrous defect that the previous owner wanted to get out from under as soon as possible? If there's anything I should know that would keep me from going to test drive this one, kindly lay it on me. EDIT: or maybe there's a horrible smell inside and nothing will get it out Pimp Drakula fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jun 19, 2015 |
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Jun 19, 2015 02:04
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Pimp Drakula posted:EDIT: or maybe there's a horrible smell inside and nothing will get it out 
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Jun 19, 2015 02:35
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Any goons own an MQB Golf R, A3 or S3? Or have any strong opinions about them? I'm test driving an S3 tomorrow. I still feel a little burned on my Mark V R32 that was beat on by previous owners and had some issues, but the S3 checks a lot of boxes for me so I feel like I should check it out.
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Jun 19, 2015 03:00
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The fact that this thread is 90% "here's some problem with my VW/Audi, what is it how can I fix it cheaply" and "thinking about buying a VW/Audi X, what should I look out for" and the inevitable long list of expensive issues/maintenance that always gets posted has soured me on ever buying a VAG car again. Ah well we'll always have the good old days, it was fun while it lasted you crazy german fucks.
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Jun 19, 2015 07:34
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Pryor on Fire posted:The fact that this thread is 90% "here's some problem with my VW/Audi, what is it how can I fix it cheaply" and "thinking about buying a VW/Audi X, what should I look out for" and the inevitable long list of expensive issues/maintenance that always gets posted has soured me on ever buying a VAG car again. Ah well we'll always have the good old days, it was fun while it lasted you crazy german fucks. It's a question and answer thread.
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Jun 19, 2015 07:57
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FWIW I've owned four nissans, a toyota, two fords, a subaru, and a VW. Every car has had its things to look out for and threads on forums for common issues, gripes, etc. As cars age and require more financial support there are just going to be issues no matter what. If you're more bothered by this than most people, why not lease?
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Jun 19, 2015 07:57
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Pryor on Fire posted:The fact that this thread is 90% "here's some problem with my VW/Audi, what is it how can I fix it cheaply" and "thinking about buying a VW/Audi X, what should I look out for" and the inevitable long list of expensive issues/maintenance that always gets posted has soured me on ever buying a VAG car again. Ah well we'll always have the good old days, it was fun while it lasted you crazy german fucks. It would be a boring thread if it was just people post about how they love Vag and could never be gay.
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Jun 19, 2015 13:18
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My two VWs have been pretty reliable. 04 jetta, got it with 64k, now at 156k mi. If you take out tires, scheduled maintenance, and minor poo poo like headlamp bulbs, the only real repairs I've had to do is a new alternator and battery and a new headlamp assembly to match the one that was replaced due to a minor fender bender. I guess rotors and pads all around a couple of years ago counts, but its not like that's expensive or hard to do. Interior is falling apart but I don't really give a poo poo. 08 Passat wagon, got it at 106k, immediately had a top end rebuild done paid by the fuckers I bought it from, now at 137k. Nothing but standard maintenance/tires since then. Of course now that I've typed this out everything will go to hell, but still. This anecdote is happy with his VWs.
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Jun 19, 2015 13:31
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Pimp Drakula posted:Hi folks, this isn't exactly a mechanical question but looking around the forum this seemed to be the thread I was most likely to find some possibly very particular information. I've been browsing Golfs in my area and came across a trade-in 2014 TDI with extremely low mileage. According to that listing site, that car has been for sale nearly two months and has been marked down in price a little over $1000 in the meantime. Is there any reason this car might be wildly undesirable in this condition and age unless it were a complete lemon? Even then, it must still be well under warranty, why might someone trade it in so quickly? The high pressure fuel pump is known to explode which then requires a replacement of the entire fuel system. VW seems to cover the cost on most of these. There are other problems too, but TDI's don't usually stay up for sale if they're reasonably priced.
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Jun 19, 2015 14:18
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smax posted:I do have a VCDS cable. What do I need to look for with the MAF/fuel pump? Regarding fuel pumps, you can do a cursory check of the fuel system by looking for fault codes with VCDS, otherwise you might need to pay for a diagnostic from VW/Audi. I needed Audi to hook up a tool and monitor fuel pressure constantly. For the MAF, you can get a good idea of what's up by doing a 3rd gear pull from 1k RPM to redline while logging your RPM, and MAF grains/sec block. Not sure which block it is for your motor, my 4.2 was logged on block 039 for MAF, and 004 for RPM. You can take the results and make a quick graph in Excel to get a good view. Here’s my end result along with the A/F trim for each bank:  Let me know if you need any further help with logging.
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Jun 19, 2015 15:04
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fknlo posted:The high pressure fuel pump is known to explode which then requires a replacement of the entire fuel system. VW seems to cover the cost on most of these. There are other problems too, but TDI's don't usually stay up for sale if they're reasonably priced. That sounds pretty catastrophic. A little research seems to indicate this was a significant problem with the 09-12 Jetta/Golf/Touareg - TDI Club has a list of user-reported failures that all fall within the 2009-2012 model years, and Edmunds reported the conclusion of a federal investigation into the failure of the HPFPs in those particular model years. Do you know if this was something VW got worked out by the 2014 model year?
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Jun 19, 2015 15:21
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veedubfreak posted:Possibly, but the car had free maintenance for the first 30k so I didn't really bother to look. Go get the ECU update, car drives completely different now. There is no longer a stumble at 1800rpms. Thank you baby jesus, I was hoping someone would report on what that update they were calling me about was and this makes me excited.
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Jun 19, 2015 15:58
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Pimp Drakula posted:Do you know if this was something VW got worked out by the 2014 model year? Doubtful, but I don't know. I'm hoping they got it worked out by the 2013 model year myself.
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Jun 19, 2015 16:30
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No. 6 posted:<Useful stuff> Thanks! I'm doubtful whether logs will help out with this issue since it doesn't appear to be happening under load at all - the only symptom I can see is the single fault popping up under the engine module (the lean at idle code). Of course, the just code popped up again this morning (two days after resetting it this last time), so it does appear that something is actually up. I'll swap out the fuel filter and drive it another week, play with running some logs, and see if I can get it to pop up again. This is the first real problem I've had with the car in the 48,000 miles I've owned it.  I'm hoping this isn't a sign of things to come....who am I kidding, I knew what I was getting into when I bought a VW.
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Jun 19, 2015 16:57
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Pryor on Fire posted:The fact that this thread is 90% "here's some problem with my VW/Audi, what is it how can I fix it cheaply" and "thinking about buying a VW/Audi X, what should I look out for" and the inevitable long list of expensive issues/maintenance that always gets posted has soured me on ever buying a VAG car again. Ah well we'll always have the good old days, it was fun while it lasted you crazy german fucks. You're right, we should all wish for this thread to be like the Toyobaru thread, with pages and pages of bench racing and complaining about lack of power. OR the Porsche thread, where at one point there was discussion about someone needed to be towed because of a sensor failure after washing his car.   I'm not trying to sell this thread as a huge winner, but given how much of a shithole the Vortex is, it makes sense that goons would need/want someplace to confer about these cars.
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Jun 19, 2015 17:26
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I have a 2009 Jetta with 45k miles on it. Its been a good car and never had to take it in for repairs but today I went to start it up and it isn't working. All the aux electric is working and the engine turns over and seems start. If I keep the clutch in and give it some gas I can hear the RPMs shoot up but it will immediately shut off. Also the dash never turns on (no lights) and the RPM gauge never moves. I figured it was a fuse or something but it looked fine and is still doing the same after replacing it. I don't know poo poo about cars but was hoping the thread has some ideas before getting towed to a mechanic.
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Jun 19, 2015 18:08
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lamentable dustman posted:I have a 2009 Jetta with 45k miles on it. Its been a good car and never had to take it in for repairs but today I went to start it up and it isn't working. All the aux electric is working and the engine turns over and seems start. If I keep the clutch in and give it some gas I can hear the RPMs shoot up but it will immediately shut off. Also the dash never turns on (no lights) and the RPM gauge never moves. I figured it was a fuse or something but it looked fine and is still doing the same after replacing it. No idea if the newer VWs are the same, but Audis do all sorts of weird poo poo when the battery is dying. You could possibly have your battery load tested first by taking to an auto parts store.
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Jun 19, 2015 18:12
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http://i.imgur.com/oOzP2Ow.jpg What is this part called that I'm missing? Is this piece needed? Edit: Eh, from min-to-max on the dipstick how much oil is that 1qt? obi_ant fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 04:33
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obi_ant posted:Edit: Eh, from min-to-max on the dipstick how much oil is that 1qt? Yeah, just about.
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Jun 21, 2015 05:12
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Uthor posted:Yeah, just about. Thanks!
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Jun 21, 2015 05:14
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For your other question, it's some part of the intake, but don't know what exactly it's called. It helps get cool air from outside your engine bay, but not strictly necessary. That's all before the air filter and MAF, so other than some marginal performance loss from not having the coldest air, the engine should run fine. I wouldn't worry about it too much for now, just get a new piece when I got a chance.
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Jun 21, 2015 05:48
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obi_ant posted:http://i.imgur.com/oOzP2Ow.jpg Don't know the official name, but I'd guess 'air intake snorkel cover.'
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Jun 21, 2015 05:55
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No. 6 posted:Don't know the official name, but I'd guess 'air intake snorkel cover.' "Thing that disappears from your GTI/A3's engine bay into another dimension after ~1000 miles"
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Jun 21, 2015 07:04
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Does anyone know what the torque spec is on the lug bolts for a 2010 Jetta? I had to get some brake work done on it and I didn't know there were lock bolts on each wheel due in part to the fact that I bought it used 9 months ago (also it has the black cover caps on each lug). Sinfully I went to Pep Boys because I needed the fix quick and the technician decided to not put the locking lugs back on. I didn't realize I was driving on 4/5 until I got home. I need to reattach these bolts and don't know the torque setting.
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Jun 22, 2015 03:32
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89 ft/lbs. This is what I have printed out and stuffed into my torque stick box: http://www.dormanproducts.com/documents4rb/WheelNutTorqueSpecsMASTER.pdf
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Jun 22, 2015 04:13
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Just got back from having the TDI ECM update done on my A3 and can confirm it's improved low-speed shifts immensely. All the jerky engine braking is gone as well as the dead spot around 1800 RPM. Also it didn't reset any of my vag-com tweaks, so I'm a happy camper.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:23
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Was that a factory thing or an aftermarket flash? If factory, is there a published list of affected cars?
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Jun 24, 2015 20:43
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Brake and coolant flush aren't cheap. Probably did plugs too if he did a 60k. Did he do all this without telling you first? FYI, brake and coolant should really be done every 2 years. Missed a page. That 14 TDI probably got traded in on a 15 R. I'm at 42k on my 11 TDI and the filter looked nice and clean when I had it changed at 40k. There is a prevailing theory that the grenaded fuel pumps are mostly due to bad diesel and stupid people putting gas in the tank. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 24, 2015 |
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Jun 24, 2015 21:14
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savesthedayrocks posted:Was that a factory thing or an aftermarket flash? If factory, is there a published list of affected cars?
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Jun 24, 2015 21:22
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No. 6 posted:No idea if the newer VWs are the same, but Audis do all sorts of weird poo poo when the battery is dying. You could possibly have your battery load tested first by taking to an auto parts store. Thanks for the advice but it looks like my whole dash is fried and I have a electrical short somewhere. Turns out their is a VW/Audi specialist mechanic a couple miles away from me and he did a house call. He pulled out the dash and there was a very distinct burned electronics smell that came out. Also the ground bolt was apparently hotter then normal (I live in the south and its like 100 degrees out so who knows). Anyways, I guess there is a short somewhere that needs to be found.
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Jun 25, 2015 03:07
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Has anybody replaced a head unit on an mk6 GTI before? I'm looking to replace mine with an aftermarket one. I've pulled a radio out of an mk5 before, and that seemed more complicated than it should've been, but mostly due to that dashboard vent or whatever the hell that was. Also, any recommendations for one? I do have satellite radio and want to keep it so that's a must, but I don't need nav. I'll probably end up losing the car's bluetooth capability but it's crap anyway so I'm good. I'm looking at ones from Kenwood and Pioneer right now. shyduck fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 07:43
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Haven't seen this mentioned yet, but I got a letter in the mail from VW today for my mk6 Golf TDI saying they have extended the warranty on the HPFP to 10 years or 120,000 miles!
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Jun 27, 2015 00:25
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