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Literally The Worst posted:Where the heck can I buy Vallejo online? I got my stuff through Amazon 
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Jun 17, 2015 18:36
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VoodooXT posted:The War Store This is the best price for me. Cheaper than any local store after 6 bottles once you count in shipping. No one has any stock locally.
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Jun 17, 2015 19:33
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Literally The Worst posted:Where the heck can I buy Vallejo online? Miniature Market and Meeplemart have it as well, although Meeplemart is currently showing a lot of stuff out of stock.
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Jun 17, 2015 19:37
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Not to be pedantic, but that's clearly more a reference to model hobbies rather than mini wargaming. Even without the Airfix/Blairfix pun, it's pretty clear those Labour figures are the wrong scale for wargaming Oh crap, I thought this was still the painting AND modeling thread.  You're too humble, it looks great. Most of the model is the catsuit and you have painted it in such a way that by virtue of the material itself it has details, it has sheen, it has shadow. If comic books had that lycra flexing noise, this would be it. The base has a nice contrast of looking dusty and grimy. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 15:27
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Late to last page's pigment separation chat, but you can get some easy organic weathering effects by watering down cheap craft store brown paint and slopping it over stone or concrete surfaces. I'll post photos of some when I get home, it's a pretty cheap and easy thing to do.
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Jun 18, 2015 16:10
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Post 9-11 User posted:Oh crap, I thought this was still the painting AND modeling thread. No worries, I'm just messin' with ya. 
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Jun 18, 2015 17:11
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Working on converting a Centurion to a Chuck/Eddie rogue trader type dreadnought.  It's a bit too far in the Tau direction, so I'm thinking skulls and cables or something?
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Jun 18, 2015 18:01
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Round the pads. Imperium rounds things. Add rivets. Wrap some jewelers chain around something, or put a line of green stuff and carve it into a bicycle chain looking kind of deal. Cables everywhere. And an optometrist's phoropter on a periscope. Cannibalize machine spirits from rhinos. Get a goblin or something, put a sack on its head, cut off its arm and replace it with a machine part, and have it following the thing on its base--maybe holding a controller or keeping a length of parchment from dragging.
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Jun 18, 2015 18:11
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If you have to ask it needs more skulls
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Jun 18, 2015 18:11
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Round the pads. Imperium rounds things. Add rivets. Wrap some jewelers chain around something, or put a line of green stuff and carve it into a bicycle chain looking kind of deal. Thanks, that's awesome. Ithink the imperium is a bit torn on rounding things, marines especially seems to love hard edges of about 45 degrees with random cut-outs. Edit: It's for Grey Knights, who are supposed to have slightly more advanced tech, so I'm thinking a little less exposed cables and more skulls and religious stuff. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 18:59
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HardCoil posted:Working on converting a Centurion to a Chuck/Eddie rogue trader type dreadnought. It should basically be made out of skulls and cables for proper 40k. Just don't make it spikey or you've gone chaos. On a serious note it's looking great. I wish I had greenstuff skills past filling gaps and fur.
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Jun 18, 2015 19:16
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Hi goons. I'm wondering if anyone has advice for weathering dark armor. Most of the weathering advice I've found / followed in the past assumes armor colors that will show all the steps of sponge chipping, for reference, this duder: Now that I'm painting dark, old-school Alpha Legion, the only real strong colors on my models that will allow the contrast necessary are the extreme highlights. For reference:   So, the standard easy-day method of weathering my dudes probably won't work, and I'm kind of stuck/paralyzed on the next step. I don't want to cover them in rust or totally ruin the nice bright highlighting I have going. Weathering powders are on my agenda to play around with at some point, but there are so many options ya know?
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Jun 18, 2015 20:03
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HardCoil posted:Working on converting a Centurion to a Chuck/Eddie rogue trader type dreadnought. I wish I could sculpt such lovely uniform shapes  so smooth!
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Jun 18, 2015 20:10
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Clayshapers and lots of lube dude  That and large amount of filing with my new magical Flex-pad files. Most of the smoothness here comes from them. Try it!
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Jun 18, 2015 20:25
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BirdieBedtime posted:Hi goons. I'm wondering if anyone has advice for weathering dark armor. Most of the weathering advice I've found / followed in the past assumes armor colors that will show all the steps of sponge chipping, for reference, this duder: Sponge chipping/hairspray weathering will be fine, people do it on dark colored tanks all the time.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:02
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HardCoil posted:Working on converting a Centurion to a Chuck/Eddie rogue trader type dreadnought. If you pull this off it'll probably be the only good centurion conversion anywhere ever
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Jun 18, 2015 23:16
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BULBASAUR posted:If you pull this off it'll probably be the only good centurion conversion anywhere ever http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/2013/10/mechanicum-skittarii-centurion-completed.html
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Jun 19, 2015 05:38
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After a simple green soak, I'm already much happier with how he is coming along. Pre-soak:  New face:  New Wolf:  Question is, do I try to do pupils again or just give them a light blue glaze for spooky glowing eyes?
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Jun 19, 2015 06:26
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Now that you've pointed out what the pupils looked like in the original, this is all I can see:
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Jun 19, 2015 07:17
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JerryLee posted:Now that you've pointed out what the pupils looked like in the original, this is all I can see: Yeah, they only look good from that "down and to the right" angle. I was ready to put something on the base for it to make sense.
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Jun 19, 2015 07:38
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Is the gloss varnish step of using microsol and microset really necessary or is it just for people that don't want to risk damaging the layer of paint underneath when weathering the decal?
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Jun 19, 2015 14:43
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Gloss varnish creates a perfectly flat surface for the transfer to sit on. Paint layers are naturally a tad bumpy so it is useful to do.
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Jun 19, 2015 14:48
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Its more to get a smooth surface I think E: Gaylord! 
Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Jun 19, 2015 |
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Jun 19, 2015 14:50
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PyroDwarf posted:After a simple green soak, I'm already much happier with how he is coming along. Go with the spooky eyes. The blank eyes look really cool in this case so I think that'd make it look even better.
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Jun 19, 2015 14:57
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Glossy dark eyes. From what little I've read of the Space Wolf lore, the "wolves" aren't all there mentally. Unrelated, does Green Stuff go off with age? The packs I got from the LGS were probably pretty old judging by the rest of their stock, and the stuff's been a pain to work with. It's tough and hard to knead, there are small hard chunks of the different colors that refuse to break apart or mix, and it never gets fully soft like I've read it's supposed to. A Shitty Reporter fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jun 19, 2015 |
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Jun 19, 2015 15:16
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I've always cut off the middle portion before mixing. I have stuff from about 10 years ago that's still feels the same as it always has, but I've always cut off the portion.
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Jun 19, 2015 15:30
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If you got the strip stuff, the bits in the middle might be hard because that's what it does when the two parts are put together. You can cut those bits off and put the piece you've cut off under an incandescent ('normal' or halogen bulb) lamp, or in warm water, to warm it up so it's more pliant and easier to mix together.
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Jun 19, 2015 15:30
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Thanks, thought that might be the case but wasn't sure. I'll cut out the middle and try the warm water trick. Will report back.
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Jun 19, 2015 15:48
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SRM posted:http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/2013/10/mechanicum-skittarii-centurion-completed.html He did a lot of work, but it still looks like a centurion
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Jun 19, 2015 18:41
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Centurions are cool and I will fight you. 
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Jun 19, 2015 18:47
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Agreed I mean, look at this motherfucker 
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Jun 19, 2015 19:00
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BULBASAUR posted:He did a lot of work, but it still looks like a centurion Looks like a Skittarii that has eaten all the pies
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Jun 19, 2015 19:03
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BULBASAUR posted:Agreed Thats a loving boss model.
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Jun 20, 2015 09:08
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serious gaylord posted:Thats a loving boss model. I'm going to guess 75mm? Nope, 90mm!
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Jun 20, 2015 10:26
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An Angry Bug posted:Centurions are cool and I will fight you. Wrong
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Jun 21, 2015 00:36
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IMO the centurion model isn't nearly as bad when it's meant from the start to be a doofy mechanicus robot rather than something that the adeptus astartes would lower themselves to wear into battle
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Jun 21, 2015 00:42
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GW's "it looks dumb on purpose--that's part of the style" was cute 20 years ago when it was 1/3rd the price.
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Jun 21, 2015 07:03
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What's a good, cheap way to store my paints/brushes/etc. if I don't have a dedicated hobby desk? I usually model and paint on the coffee table while watching TV, and the growing collection of supplies is getting to be a little much. Just a tackle box or something?
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Jun 21, 2015 09:43
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Yup, a tackle box is probably the best solution.
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Jun 21, 2015 10:28
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Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green? I'd order the FW one if it wasn't for the bloody shipping.
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Jun 21, 2015 15:03
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