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A mix of 25% Castellan Green, 25% Sotek Green, 25% Dawnstone and 25% Nurgling Green Easy 
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Jun 21, 2015 15:23
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thespaceinvader posted:Yup, a tackle box is probably the best solution. Yeah, also paint in front of the TV in the living room and I've been looking for a long time, and this is really the best solution I can find as well. Currently, I have a laptop tray on wheels that is supposed to be my paint station, but I find it quickly starts to be a general junk pile and I have to move to another table. I start too many projects before completing the previous one. You can get a dedicated paint storage case, depending on the paints you use, but they are usually way overpriced for a $5 case and some foam. They also don't hold the rest of your stuff, so they are pretty much useless in the long run. Sadly, I haven't found The One yet, so I can't make a recommendation. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 15:40
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ijyt posted:Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green? They aren't quite 1:1 equivalents, but the paints I picked up awhile ago for SoH are vallejo panzer aces USMC tank crew (319) and model color green sky (70.974). Tamiya also has a spray of their field green color, but it smells like Mortarion's fart when being sprayed. Looks nice though: 
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Jun 21, 2015 15:43
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ijyt posted:Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green? Im going up to the forge world open day in a few weeks. I dont mind grabbing htem and sending them to you.
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Jun 21, 2015 16:00
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serious gaylord posted:Im going up to the forge world open day in a few weeks. I dont mind grabbing htem and sending them to you. I was actually being dumb and confusing FW with Darksphere's shipping policy regarding paints. Darksphere makes you pay £11 for a courier if you order paints because of Royal Mails new policies. So no worries, but thanks!
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Jun 21, 2015 16:41
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Just finished my first 4 Tactical Marines from the DV box set (using this tutorial linked a few pages ago). I'm pretty happy with the result, blurry camera photo aside. The gradual glazing worked really well in my opinion, but I loving hate painting aquilas. This time I painted them with the bolters already attached to the model, I'm considering detaching the bolters for the next batch and doing them separately. Since I'm still new it felt like it took me ages to get this done from start to finish, probably around 2.5 to 3 hours for the 4 of them, doing each stage simultaneously on each model. 
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Jun 21, 2015 16:44
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Had some time to work on Guilliman over the weekend. Got quite a lot done. Very nice model to work on. 
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Jun 21, 2015 17:27
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serious gaylord posted:Had some time to work on Guilliman over the weekend. Got quite a lot done. Very nice model to work on. You are a beast. Looks amazing so far.
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Jun 21, 2015 18:15
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How do you pin all that stuff together, anyway? I've tried using sticky tack but it doesn't hold on to the plastic very well.
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Jun 21, 2015 19:37
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Star Man posted:How do you pin all that stuff together, anyway? I've tried using sticky tack but it doesn't hold on to the plastic very well. I drill into the bits and stick it on with a tiny dab of superglue to stop it twirling.
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Jun 21, 2015 19:55
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ijyt posted:Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green? Lupercal Green looks pretty close to P3 Cryx Bane Base, which is a warmer color with a green undertone. If you mix some coal black into it you'll probably be right there. I'd just pull up the Vallejo paint charts and see what comes closest (unless you're committed to spending $12 for 40ml of paint)
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Jun 21, 2015 21:47
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BULBASAUR posted:Lupercal Green looks pretty close to P3 Cryx Bane Base, which is a warmer color with a green undertone. If you mix some coal black into it you'll probably be right there. Yeah, I've tried that but I don't really trust my old rear end monitors colour.
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Jun 21, 2015 22:15
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Do you use Photoshop? You can use it to sample their color codes and see how they compare to each other.
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Jun 21, 2015 23:02
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Can it be 10mm time now?
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Jun 21, 2015 23:37
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BULBASAUR posted:Do you use Photoshop? You can use it to sample their color codes and see how they compare to each other. Great idea, thanks! e: Looks like VGC Scurvy Green or VMC Black Green are closest to Lupercal Green, while possibly VMC Gunship Green for Sons of Horus Green. ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 23:39
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dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? You can't fool me, I measured my screen. Those are clearly 140mm.  Your $2 coin is also ridiculously over sized. Not a practical currency at all.
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Jun 22, 2015 01:26
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serious gaylord posted:Had some time to work on Guilliman over the weekend. Got quite a lot done. Very nice model to work on. This already looks gorgeous, I can't wait to see the finished product! dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? 
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Jun 22, 2015 02:19
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dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? Except for the one skellie in the back rank under the banner, every single one, even the skulls on the banner, have the stupidest happy grin on 
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Jun 22, 2015 02:26
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so if I pull the trigger on a cheapo airbrush/compressor from amazon (with the expectation that I'll eventually sell this to a co-worker and step up to badger gear), and buy a giant loving pile of vallejo game air paints (they've got a kit that's 47 paints plus primers and cleaning stuff and everything for like $200?), will I be able to use the Game Air paints to paint with a brush or would that be a bad idea? Here's the stuff I'm looking at right now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJDXHQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB Plus for like $8 I can buy a set of adapters that will make this compressor with with a badger brush so I can upgrade incrementally. Am I making any mistakes here outside spending a bunch of money on plastic dolls for a hobby I ditched a couple years back?
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Jun 22, 2015 02:42
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I use the model/game air paints all the time. It's already thinned for you.
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Jun 22, 2015 03:11
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Sigma-X posted:so if I pull the trigger on a cheapo airbrush/compressor from amazon (with the expectation that I'll eventually sell this to a co-worker and step up to badger gear), and buy a giant loving pile of vallejo game air paints (they've got a kit that's 47 paints plus primers and cleaning stuff and everything for like $200?), will I be able to use the Game Air paints to paint with a brush or would that be a bad idea? Vallejo air paints work fine with a brush, their metallics are awesome. The only thing with buying the kit is maybe getting paint you'll never use. I buy model/game color and thin it myself with water for most stuff, works quite well with everything I've tried so far. I love airbrushing, I'm still learning though. I went all in and got a 6 gallon compressor and a Iwata HP-CS though. Working on using it more, it's a tricky tool but really fun to use when you get a neat effect out of it. The biggest hurdle I had to get over was learning how much/little to thin poo poo to shoot through it. Didn't realize how much I had to loving thin Createx to get it to work at all. I use that for terrain pieces. With Game Air though you have no worries, works great out the bottle.
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Jun 22, 2015 05:20
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Sigma-X posted:so if I pull the trigger on a cheapo airbrush/compressor from amazon (with the expectation that I'll eventually sell this to a co-worker and step up to badger gear), and buy a giant loving pile of vallejo game air paints (they've got a kit that's 47 paints plus primers and cleaning stuff and everything for like $200?), will I be able to use the Game Air paints to paint with a brush or would that be a bad idea? I would get a Veda instead of a Master. They are usually a tiny bit more but they are generally much much better. Quality control on them is all over the place (much like Master) but I've honestly used Veda's that were on par with some of the lower end "real" airbrushes. Also check your local harbor freight if you have one, they sometimes just have the gravity feed Masters for under 20 sometimes.
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Jun 22, 2015 06:10
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Just finished my Vostroyan Taurox half-track conversion. Sorry for the lovely phone pics.   but wait... what's inside?     The driver is the vox caster mini split in half and rebuilt in a sitting position with green stuff. Pretty much the only model that would fit because of the silly hats. And Tauroxes are silly enough on their own.
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Jun 22, 2015 14:42
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Man, the guy in the back partied way too hard.
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Jun 22, 2015 14:49
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Driver: *phone dialing* hello, is this Mrs Patrokov? Yes this is about your son, your first born. No, no, his soul hasn't been eaten by the ruinous powers haha, he just when a little silly on the lho sticks. Yes, he was doing gravity bongs. I am looking after him fine Mrs Patrokov don't worry. Say hello to Mr Patrokov for me please. The Emperor protects!dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? This rules. I am working on 10mm orcs and if you are in Sydney we should play.
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Jun 22, 2015 14:58
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Oath cross post:    Base was cleaned up after photo.
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Jun 22, 2015 15:25
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mentos posted:Just finished my Vostroyan Taurox half-track conversion. Sorry for the lovely phone pics. This is loving baller. I couldn't be assed to paint the interior of any of my Tauroxes, so I'm glad someone else did. There's too much detail in there for everyone to waste it.
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Jun 22, 2015 16:02
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PyroDwarf the paws boss looks dross! I think that means solid? Really great basing, too, I never have the patience for it. Some gentle application of dark washes in the recesses could give the armor more definition. SRM: desert camo crew, you got the sand color I could never achieve. My first attempt at that was an old Dark Eldar army, my new one looks just slightly better.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:17
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dishwasherlove posted:Can it be 10mm time now? Whoa! Where'd you get that cool fantasy coin with the head of a mad hermit on it?
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Jun 22, 2015 18:21
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Whoa! Where'd you get that cool fantasy coin with the head of a mad hermit on it? I'll sell you some at $5USD each e: real metal, it's not a resin cast
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Jun 22, 2015 18:59
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Post 9-11 User posted:PyroDwarf the paws boss looks dross! I think that means solid? Really great basing, too, I never have the patience for it. Some gentle application of dark washes in the recesses could give the armor more definition. My tan color for my Valhallans is just Steel Legion Drab layered up to Tallarn Sand and Karak Stone. If you wanted to go one step further, Screaming Skull is a good highlight. You can add a wash if you're feeling randy but I don't generally, with the exception of the cuffs and pants on my Valhallans.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:20
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Crosspoastin' my completed oaths for this month:JerryLee posted:
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Jun 22, 2015 22:58
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attitude towards these. I mainly just wanted to get the entirety of Dragons Don't Share painted to a rough tabletop standard, and these are another notch in that belt. The only post-wash highlights were on skin, hair, and the green areas of the archer which would've been way too dark otherwise.
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Post 9-11 User posted:PyroDwarf the paws boss looks dross! I think that means solid? Really great basing, too, I never have the patience for it. Some gentle application of dark washes in the recesses could give the armor more definition. Thanks. I was going to do a panel line wash but it was late, I was tired and had a headache and wanted to finish him. I was also worried about messing everything up. I'll experiment on a dude next time.
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Jun 22, 2015 23:15
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Painting a bunch of skin-tone for a dude but its coming out a bit similar to his copper armor. Any quick fix to differentiate it and make it a bit less orange? Really like the paint job and don't want to start that part over again...
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Jun 23, 2015 05:14
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w00tmonger posted:Painting a bunch of skin-tone for a dude but its coming out a bit similar to his copper armor. Use blue in places where there would be shadow and that should help a little. It doesn't help that copper is already a pretty neutralized color and so is human skin.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:22
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SRM posted:This is loving baller. I couldn't be assed to paint the interior of any of my Tauroxes, so I'm glad someone else did. There's too much detail in there for everyone to waste it. How did you do the green on the roof of the inside? Really dig that olive drab color.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:28
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Hello, here is a mobile sacrificial shrine where voodoo/aztec gatormen sacrifice prisoners to cull their souls and power their infernal magics. It was big and annoying to paint but I am happy with the results.       Thank you for looking at my big dumb model.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:29
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Yup, fukkin owns. It looks like an absolute nightmare to assemble and like there's more detail than I'd even know what to do with, but it looks incredible painted up like that. It even has enough skulls on it to make me happy.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:46
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w00tmonger posted:Painting a bunch of skin-tone for a dude but its coming out a bit similar to his copper armor. Consider doing a filter over the whole model. It will tie in all your colors and the similarity between the flesh tone and the armor will become a positive as opposed to a negative.
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Jun 23, 2015 07:06
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Could I use this stuff: the same way as an oil wash? Spray gloss varnish, use panel line accent, clean up with paint thinner, dull coat?
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Jun 23, 2015 07:16
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