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Big Willy Style posted:This rules. I am working on 10mm orcs and if you are in Sydney we should play.  This is all the Warmaster I have painted, and I'm in Melbourne sadly. Which models are you using for your Orcs? Still trying to workout how to translate the living marble/obsidian thing GW use for all their Tomb Kings to 10mm.
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Jun 23, 2015 08:27
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Sure, or just get an oil paint from the craft store and thin it with spirit to a really thin consistency. I would panel line first, let it dry, and then hit it with a filter. Or seal it in with gloss between layers (so you have an easier time cleaning up)
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Jun 23, 2015 08:29
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BULBASAUR posted:Sure, or just get an oil paint from the craft store and thin it with spirit to a really thin consistency. Filter? I''m in Korea and not sure where to get stuff outside of Amazon, or an hour drive in traffic to get to Seoul.
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Jun 23, 2015 08:51
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Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super.
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Jun 23, 2015 09:17
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. I use Vallejo's "Black Grey" and I like the results.
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Jun 23, 2015 09:18
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. Reaper HD Military Grey followed by a wash of Golden Shading Grey Acrylic and then polished off with some Vallejo Matte Varnish to kill the shine. Those Golden transparent shading acrylics are magic in a bottle if you can learn how to work with their dry time.
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Jun 23, 2015 09:58
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Floppychop posted:I use Vallejo's "Black Grey" and I like the results. Seconded if you want a shade of black that can still be shaded.
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Jun 23, 2015 10:05
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dishwasherlove posted:
I'm using pendraken but intend to mix some other companies models in. A friend is using hussars and mongols to make a kislev force from pendraken as well. http://imgur.com/a/MzzJA
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Jun 23, 2015 10:50
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. My favourite is Vallejo Model Color's "German Grey". It has a tiny bit of blue tint to it, that makes it look like a really rich black when shaded with a black wash.
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Jun 23, 2015 13:21
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PyroDwarf posted:Thanks. I was going to do a panel line wash but it was late, I was tired and had a headache and wanted to finish him. I was also worried about messing everything up. I'll experiment on a dude next time. Miniatures Painting - Summer Of Love, "I'll Experiment On A Dude Next Time." 
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Jun 23, 2015 13:49
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. RMS Noir Black is awesome for a first highlight of pure black. Pure black, Noir Black highlights, VMC German Grey edges, done.
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Jun 23, 2015 15:04
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Does anyone have any tips on painting a captured vehicle? I'm thinking of getting a T-34 for my Finnish army in Bolt Action and would like to give it the look of a hasty battlefield paint job. Something like you can still see hints of the Soviet markings underneath.
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Jun 23, 2015 16:11
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PyroDwarf posted:Filter? I''m in Korea and not sure where to get stuff outside of Amazon, or an hour drive in traffic to get to Seoul. You can get something from Amazon too. A filter is just a really thin paint applied over your entire model. Its basically a wash, but the intent isn’t to shade anything but rather to tint the color to give it some depth. Oils are the best for this, but you can use acrylics too.
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Jun 23, 2015 18:22
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Commissar Canuck posted:Does anyone have any tips on painting a captured vehicle? I'm thinking of getting a T-34 for my Finnish army in Bolt Action and would like to give it the look of a hasty battlefield paint job. Something like you can still see hints of the Soviet markings underneath. Same way we do winter camo on scale models. Paint it up with the old scheme. Use masking fluid with a piece of old sponge or whatever to dab out areas where the new paint job has pealed or flaked off. Then shoot your new scheme with heavily thinned paint. Build up layers to get the coverage and depth that you want. When you think you need one more layer... Stop! Weathering will obscure the old paint even more.
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Jun 23, 2015 21:12
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Got in the zone today and just powered through this guy. Fantastic model.    
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Jun 23, 2015 23:45
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That is some goddamn sexy marble, gaylord.
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Jun 23, 2015 23:54
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BULBASAUR posted:You can get something from Amazon too. A filter is just a really thin paint applied over your entire model. Its basically a wash, but the intent isn’t to shade anything but rather to tint the color to give it some depth. Oils are the best for this, but you can use acrylics too. Having never done this is there anything weird to it. Don't have any oils to work with at the moment
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Jun 23, 2015 23:54
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I'm too lazy to find my posts about this, but I re-hosted them on my lovely blog: http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=44 TLDR: Seal your model with gloss, use synthetic brushes, clean up/thin with mineral spirit, wear a mask, takes a long time to dry so just seal it in with gloss and keep going
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Jun 24, 2015 00:23
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dishwasherlove posted:That is some goddamn sexy marble, gaylord. Yeah that marble is somehow my fav part of that model. Great job overall of course.
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Jun 24, 2015 00:28
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Did the panel line thing. Can of dull coat ran out mid-application. 
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Jun 24, 2015 00:40
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Anyone know how to do this paint streaking effect that this guy did on his models?  From houseofqueeg.wordpress.com .
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Jun 24, 2015 01:29
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Hamshot posted:Anyone know how to do this paint streaking effect that this guy did on his models? It's called Streaking Grime/rain marks. Several companies make it, you stripe it onto surface and then use mineral spirits to dilute it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMJVdycmJ98 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJiUKx8J9Is https://youtu.be/DQVScNpd2cI
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Jun 24, 2015 01:41
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Awesome, cheers guy.
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Jun 24, 2015 02:11
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serious gaylord posted:Got in the zone today and just powered through this guy. Fantastic model. That's proper nice
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Jun 24, 2015 07:39
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dishwasherlove posted:That is some goddamn sexy marble, gaylord. Thanks. I must have started that base over from scratch about 4 times before I got to that, some very very frustrating moments where it just didn't work. I also painted this in a different way to how I normally paint and it made some of the more tedious bits much quicker while still giving the finish I wanted.
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Jun 24, 2015 09:21
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Do Citadel layer paints always need a base layer underneath them, or do people sometimes just apply them straight over the undercoat? I'm thinking of sycorax bronze in particular - I'm using it for CSM shoulderpad borders and the like and to date I've been using it without a base layer (which I guess would be Zandri Dust?). Am I being a moron?
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Jun 24, 2015 16:20
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No - you might need to paint something under metallics though to get the proper look. In other words, silver over black looks better than silver over white. I think the Base > Layer thing was geared more toward people who don't quite grasp painting yet and don't realize that three dimensional things have depth and tone variation.
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Jun 24, 2015 16:41
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Sycorax bronze is also really thin so to get a decent amount of coverage over black you'll either be doing 30 odd layers or gooping it on really thick.
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Jun 24, 2015 16:45
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Thanks chaps.serious gaylord posted:Sycorax bronze is also really thin so to get a decent amount of coverage over black you'll either be doing 30 odd layers or gooping it on really thick. Mine seems pretty thick - at least compared to something like Brass Scorpion. Anyhoo, I've painted one shoulder with Zandri Dust and will paint over with Sycorax Bronze, see if I can spot the difference.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:02
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Crosspostin' my new freeblade. Zoinks! Clicks for huge.    
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Jun 24, 2015 18:20
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Gaylord, that marble
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Jun 24, 2015 18:21
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When stripping primer from Bones models using Simple Green concentrate, what ratio of water to concentrate works best? Thanks! VVV Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jun 24, 2015 |
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Jun 24, 2015 19:32
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Unzip and Attack posted:When stripping primer from Bones models using Simple Green concentrate, what ratio of water to concentrate works best? I did like a 50/50 in a small gladware cup and it works for me. I know some people use it straight and it still works fine. Let it sit for 20 min and hit it with a toothbrush, then one more soak if you have some stubborn areas.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:53
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Crosspostin' my new freeblade. Needs more flowers.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:57
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serious gaylord posted:Sycorax bronze is also really thin so to get a decent amount of coverage over black you'll either be doing 30 odd layers or gooping it on really thick. Picked up one weird trick for metallics - base your golds/bronzes on a brown rather than black underlayer. Also, I'm gonna be flayed alive for this, but I don't like your marble  . Rowboat and the metallics in particular are amazing, but I keep seeing the black streaks in the marble and they look like paint streaks.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:59
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serious gaylord posted:Got in the zone today and just powered through this guy. Fantastic model. Gaylord, how did you do your gold? I've read a bunch of tutorials and practiced a bunch but I can't seem to get it to look decent. Glazing? Drybrushing?
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Jun 24, 2015 22:27
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serious gaylord posted:Thanks. I must have started that base over from scratch about 4 times before I got to that, some very very frustrating moments where it just didn't work. I also painted this in a different way to how I normally paint and it made some of the more tedious bits much quicker while still giving the finish I wanted. How did you do it? Looking at it I feel like I would probably approach that effect by sponging light gray and white over a medium gray, then painting the veins on in dark gray, but I'd be surprised if it was actually that simple to get it the way you did.
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Jun 24, 2015 22:48
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JerryLee posted:How did you do it? Looking at it I feel like I would probably approach that effect by sponging light gray and white over a medium gray, then painting the veins on in dark gray, but I'd be surprised if it was actually that simple to get it the way you did. But you'd be correct. There's a bit of purple glazing in patches but it's mostly dark grey base, sloppy coat of russ grey, sponge fenris grey, sponge vma pale blue grey. Paint in veins in dark reaper. Sponge again. Paint more veins. Sponge etc etc. The gold was just tin bits, dwarf bronze, shining gold, auric gold and auric + mithril.
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Jun 24, 2015 23:07
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Awwwwwright. Deffo gonna have to give that a try one of these months, then.
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Jun 25, 2015 00:04
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Just to prove I'm not talking out of my rear end about the marble, I followed this tutorial on Chest of Colours (http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-marble-bases/ - It's down at the moment but I've informed the site) and came up with this base: The tutorial (my recollections are a little hazy now) advised building up the colours with repeat glazing, and the 'veins' are done in the same way. I painted a thick line of glaze before smearing off one side of it and leaving a gradient behind. The sponging can be built into the technique but I think it gives a better outcome compared to simply painting the veins on - I had tried that initially but canned it because the veins kept looking like paint-strokes. The edge-smear gradient technique is pretty much like classical watercolour, and if anyone here has had formal art training you will know what I am talking about. Edit This tutorial produces a similar effect to the one from CoC but the technique is actually much simpler - http://www.centerpieceminiatures.com/painting-marble-bases/ This is the original tutorial for marble (I first saw this 5+ years ago, and it's pretty much identical to serious gaylord's technique - http://hot-lead.org/advance/texturing_marble.htm Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 01:03
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