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Gothmog1065 posted:Sounds like a surveyor was there marking the flood plains on that creek. I didn't do a lot of flood plain mapping/marking but d/v could mean ditch/valley or something similar. Cut could mean they need to drop the creek bed that far to fill it. However they won't just cut your neighbor's yard. Are the markers further down the creek than your neighbor's and they just haven't gotten to yours yet?  This will help... When I said neighbor's backyard I didn't really mean that. The red line is the actual property line of the neighborhood. All the houses on the street maintain/mow the area between their property and the creek. The actually land is owned by a church and rented out to a farmer. It's actually really nice. Great place to hit golf balls and play soccer, baseball etc. We love it and always worry about someone building directly behind us. I know this is highly unlikely do to the water issue, but we still get nervous when people start sticking flags in the ground. So those 2 flags to the south-west aren't actually in the neighbor's yard, but in the area he maintains. Another neighbor of mine wondered if they were surveying to make the area official protected wetlands. ??? Just another guess based on nothing. I should just make some calls and see what I can learn, but it's not that big of deal, i'm just curious. Thanks for your help.
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Jun 23, 2015 16:04
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Flipperwaldt posted:The only way to remove this stuff is mechanically. I had a blob of it fall on my head last month and had to cut out sections of my hair. In the frenzy I took off my t-shirt, which got then ruined from the inside out. So my advice is to please not be an idiot like me. I'm just bringing it up because nobody else did: stuff is nasty sticky. Wear more protective clothing than just the gloves they recommend. Idiot me forgot to pick up some plastic and/or cheapo gloves to do this so I ended up using a couple of plastic bags as gloves. Sure it looked ghetto as all hell but it worked and kept that stuff off me, which like you said I can now clearly see how much of a pain it would have been. That stuff is super duper duper adhesive. I had all kinds of plastic down just in case because I was not about to get that stuff all over my carpet/bannisters/floor/etc. I was an idiot though because I have 3 cats and I didn't event think about them flocking toward the plastic on the floor with crap all over it. Was a recipe for disaster that turned out great, PHEW. The cans were on sale at Menards 3 for $10 so I just grabbed 3. Thankfully I did because I had some big rear end deep gaps to fill and I used every bit of 2 cans. The instructions said to fill to 50% which I did, then thought "no way it's going to expand any further, lets just put a little more in there..."  (did this when I got home at 1am like a moron, no regrets though) It's all good though I'd rather have too much than not enough and I'm geniunely looking forward to getting home from work today and trimming that stuff down flush. It's seriously making me want to pop off my window trim and look because I doubt there's any insulation/foam in those either.
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Jun 23, 2015 17:00
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Tyson Tomko posted:Idiot me forgot to pick up some plastic and/or cheapo gloves to do this so I ended up using a couple of plastic bags as gloves. Sure it looked ghetto as all hell but it worked and kept that stuff off me, which like you said I can now clearly see how much of a pain it would have been. That stuff is super duper duper adhesive. I had all kinds of plastic down just in case because I was not about to get that stuff all over my carpet/bannisters/floor/etc. I was an idiot though because I have 3 cats and I didn't event think about them flocking toward the plastic on the floor with crap all over it. Was a recipe for disaster that turned out great, PHEW. Have those windows to the left in the picture shattered yet?
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Jun 23, 2015 17:11
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As of this morning they were still A-OK. I thought I had left a pretty good amount of space for expansion but that stuff is no joke. It was pretty well cured/set up before I went to sleep last night and as far as I can tell it hadn't expanded any more since then. When I take my knife to it you'll never even know it wasn't perfect from the get go. I didn't think to mention my door had sidelights on either side so hopefully I didn't shoot myself in the foot. I don't feel any drafts coming in anymore so at least that's a plus. Tyson Tomko fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 17:14
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Edit: Wrong thread.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:54
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Does anyone think I'll see broken glass or a screwed up frame when I get home? I used the door/window spray foam and it pretty clearly forced the extra out of the opening so I don't believe psycho amounts of force were at play to screw anything up. I know I'm probably being paranoid and thinking of the worst but still. I'd like to concentrate on getting the storm door put up without thinking about what disaster I may see when I get there. Also after a full day of work I notice what looks to be pollen on one of my hands, and yep somehow that stuff got a hold of me. I was able to pick most of it off easily enough but looks like it's acetone thirty when I've got a second. VVVV If that's the case, I didn't do it and hello insurance money Tyson Tomko fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 20:23
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Your entire house will be nothing but a pile of rubble by the time you get home.
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Jun 23, 2015 20:24
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Tyson Tomko posted:Does anyone think I'll see broken glass or a screwed up frame when I get home? I used the door/window spray foam and it pretty clearly forced the extra out of the opening so I don't believe psycho amounts of force were at play to screw anything up. I know I'm probably being paranoid and thinking of the worst but still. I'd like to concentrate on getting the storm door put up without thinking about what disaster I may see when I get there. No, it should generally be completely done expanding after an hour. The low expansion foam avoids the "psycho" amounts of force, but it still has some and in the future you should probably follow the directions when using it.
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Jun 23, 2015 20:44
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Zhentar posted:No, it should generally be completely done expanding after an hour. The low expansion foam avoids the "psycho" amounts of force, but it still has some and in the future you should probably follow the directions when using it. Thanks for the reassurance! Yeah lesson definitely learned but hey, I really don't mind trimming that stuff and at least I'll know it's completely filled. I couldn't have used the rest of the can for anything anyway (except for the screwing around) -- Ok consider it all scraped and looking good! Rocking out the rest tomorrow because right now it's steak thirty. Tyson Tomko fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jun 24, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 21:27
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I want to hang some extremely light LED fixtures in my apartment. My apartment has a fairly strict "nothing bigger than a picture nail" rule when it comes to holes in the wall/ceiling. I'm going to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission, but what would be the least ceiling-damaging way to hang these lights? I've heard of drywall screw hook things, but my building doesn't have any drywall, it's all plaster and lath. Anyways, what's my easiest and best option?
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Jun 24, 2015 18:00
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Baronjutter posted:I want to hang some extremely light LED fixtures in my apartment. My apartment has a fairly strict "nothing bigger than a picture nail" rule when it comes to holes in the wall/ceiling. I'm going to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission, but what would be the least ceiling-damaging way to hang these lights? I've heard of drywall screw hook things, but my building doesn't have any drywall, it's all plaster and lath. Anyways, what's my easiest and best option? why not just screw a small eye hook into a ceiling joist?
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Jun 24, 2015 18:14
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the nicker posted:why not just screw a small eye hook into a ceiling joist? I'd have to find the joist first. I have a stud finder but it doesn't seem to like the lath and plaster walls.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:23
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Baronjutter posted:I want to hang some extremely light LED fixtures in my apartment. My apartment has a fairly strict "nothing bigger than a picture nail" rule when it comes to holes in the wall/ceiling. I'm going to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission, but what would be the least ceiling-damaging way to hang these lights? I've heard of drywall screw hook things, but my building doesn't have any drywall, it's all plaster and lath. Anyways, what's my easiest and best option? Post a link to the fixture. If you have a plaster ceiling you could use a togglebolt but you would need to patch it when finished. Should be easy to cover up if the ceiling is white.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:49
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Baronjutter posted:I want to hang some extremely light LED fixtures in my apartment. My apartment has a fairly strict "nothing bigger than a picture nail" rule when it comes to holes in the wall/ceiling. I'm going to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission, but what would be the least ceiling-damaging way to hang these lights? I've heard of drywall screw hook things, but my building doesn't have any drywall, it's all plaster and lath. Anyways, what's my easiest and best option? If it's wood lath and a light... uh light fixture... the wood lath should hold it easy.
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Jun 24, 2015 20:39
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The fixture doesn't list weight but I know 2 people who just secured it into drywall. It's all plastic and some LED's so super light. Yeah I should be able to just screw into the lath then.
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Jun 24, 2015 21:36
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I want to build a water slide from a retail plastic slide I bought. What's the best way to do the switches part? Is there a name for it?
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Jun 25, 2015 12:09
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Jun 25, 2015 12:47
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Is this supposed to be a jab at how you can't read cursive in the States any more? Because if so, 
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Jun 25, 2015 12:51
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You chose a really weird font for your labels bro. Try it again with Arial.
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Jun 25, 2015 13:44
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:Is there a name for it? Float switch.
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Jun 25, 2015 14:28
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You have cursive handwriting like that of a serial killer. Please make something more legible so people can help.
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Jun 25, 2015 14:38
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Bad Munki posted:Float switch. thanks  Reuploaded for the sake of completeness. Pinch Me Im Meming fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 14:56
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:thanks Float valve. No electrics involved. You can probably even scavenge one from a toilet for free. Certainly less than $10 (or whatever currency you use where bar is the normal pressure for water pipes).
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Jun 25, 2015 16:00
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Good call, my brain jumped straight to electronics because that's what I've been doing lately. 
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Jun 25, 2015 16:04
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Float valve. No electrics involved. You can probably even scavenge one from a toilet for free. Certainly less than $10 (or whatever currency you use where bar is the normal pressure for water pipes). Are you sure it can handle 3 bars? e: nevermind, 100 psi =6+ bars Pinch Me Im Meming fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 16:06
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Why would your water slide involve pressures of 100psi? The incoming water pressure is not what your reservoir's going to be at, unless your reservoir is sealed and pressurized, and it can't be if it's accepting overflow from the slide.
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Jun 25, 2015 16:25
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Well, you see, he doesn't actually have a pool, but his neighbors do, so they need enough oomph to launch the bodies over the privacy fence.
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Jun 25, 2015 16:48
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Phanatic posted:Why would your water slide involve pressures of 100psi? The incoming water pressure is not what your reservoir's going to be at, unless your reservoir is sealed and pressurized, and it can't be if it's accepting overflow from the slide. My waterslide doesn't, but my water intake does. The water pump itself handles around 1.5 bars, cause I need to pump the water high enough.
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Jun 25, 2015 17:08
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:My waterslide doesn't, but my water intake does. The water pump itself handles around 1.5 bars, cause I need to pump the water high enough. Right, but your water intake is dumping into a tank of water. Your household water pressure, in your pipes, is probably 50-70psi, but the water in your toilet tank sure isn't. If the vessel where the float valve is is at 100 psi, then how is the overflow from the slide making it in there? Do you have a second pump pumping that water back into the tank?
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Jun 25, 2015 17:11
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Phanatic posted:Right, but your water intake is dumping into a tank of water. Your household water pressure, in your pipes, is probably 50-70psi, but the water in your toilet tank sure isn't. If the vessel where the float valve is is at 100 psi, then how is the overflow from the slide making it in there? Do you have a second pump pumping that water back into the tank? I'm not sure if it's the language barrier or the weird units that mess up with me, so here's another explanation. When the water level gets too low the floatee opens the water intake up until the level in the tank rises up to nominal level, just like a toilet would operate. From inside the same tank a water pump, the type you'd get for large aquariums, pumps water up to the top of the slide where it gets down into the same tank thanks to gravity. The tank needs to be refilled from time to time because kids splash around and because of evaporation. Plus I can put a sand filter and a chlorine container inside the tank as well, since the water comes from a canal. Pinch Me Im Meming fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 17:25
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:I'm not sure if it's the language barrier or the weird units that mess up with me, so here's another explanation. When the water level gets too low the floatee opens the water intake up until the level in the tank rises up to nominal level, just like a toilet would operate. From inside the same tank a water pump, the type you'd get for large aquariums, pumps water up to the top of the slide where it gets down into the same tank thanks to gravity. The tank needs to be refilled from time to time because kids splash around and because of evaporation. Plus I can put a sand filter and a chlorine container inside the tank as well, since the water comes from a canal. You can get all fancy with float switches and solenoids and such but a float valve like from a toilet would work fine for your application and pressure and cost like $10.
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Jun 25, 2015 18:43
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sirr0bin posted:You can get all fancy with float switches and solenoids and such but a float valve like from a toilet would work fine for your application and pressure and cost like $10. Case in point: the pressure reducing valve on my house went out a while back, unbeknownst to me, and the entire house was running at 150psi, would have been more like 170-180, but the relief valve on the water heater did it's job and would vent the excess pressure at 150. Toilets didn't mysteriously flow or give out, faucets didn't leak, etc. It can handle it.
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Jun 25, 2015 18:50
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:I'm not sure if it's the language barrier or the weird units that mess up with me, so here's another explanation. When the water level gets too low the floatee opens the water intake up until the level in the tank rises up to nominal level, just like a toilet would operate. From inside the same tank a water pump, the type you'd get for large aquariums, pumps water up to the top of the slide where it gets down into the same tank thanks to gravity. The tank needs to be refilled from time to time because kids splash around and because of evaporation. Plus I can put a sand filter and a chlorine container inside the tank as well, since the water comes from a canal. The main point of contention is the confusion about pressure. The float valve doesn't need to handle a lot of pressure. Imagine you're spraying water at 500psi into a bucket with a float valve in it. That float valve is not going to experience 500psi of pressure (unless you're spraying directly at it); it's going to experience pressure based on how quickly the water level in the bucket is rising. That depends on flow rates, but I find it inconceivable that in any realistic scenario it'd be at all significant.
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Jun 25, 2015 19:47
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The float valve controls the flow into its own tank, the flow being from that 500psi source of water. The float might not experience the pressure, but the valve will have to stem that 500psi tide when it closes.
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Jun 25, 2015 19:50
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I'm definitely using the float valve. Will post result about pressure and possible leaks.
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Jun 25, 2015 20:08
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ReagaNOMNOMicks posted:I'm definitely using the float valve. Will post result about pressure and possible leaks. You're making a toilet tank, then putting a pump in it, right? Does nobody except you and I get that concept? The float valve is for makeup water from a pressurized source. The tank sits at or near the bottom of the slide, the pump pumps water to the top. When enough water is lost, the float drops and water from a municipal water supply or canal or wherever at a pressure not more than 100psi (6bar) refills the tank. I mean, I realize your picture isn't the best, but even the very first cursive-slathered one and the text of the post immediately conveyed what you wanted to do.
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Jun 25, 2015 23:33
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You're making a toilet tank, then putting a pump in it, right? That was my understanding of the situation.
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Jun 25, 2015 23:55
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Bad Munki posted:unbeknownst to me, and the entire house was running at 150psi You didn't notice when you went to take a shower and it scoured the flesh from your body?
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Jun 26, 2015 00:26
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Nope. The PRV wasn't 100% gone, it just couldn't hold, so the pressure would creep up over about 10-20 minutes, which means a toilet or a bathtub faucet or similar would bring the pressure down to where it should be in fairly short order. By the time you got in the shower, it was probably only around 70psi or so, which is high, but still inside the acceptable range. Also, I like a nice abrasive shower. I've been known to replace the shower head in rentals with one of those bottom shelf $5 water saving institutional deals that shoots pins and needles, it's pretty great. On the other hand, it's pretty cool being able to run both showers, the washing machine, the dishwasher, and then someone flushes a toilet and you don't even notice.
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Jun 26, 2015 00:36
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I lost my shower pressure a while ago, but the bath worked fine. Investigation showed that a tiny chunk of gasket had broken loose and plugged the 1/16" inlet hole on the shower nozzle. Determined not to let that happen again, and convinced that 1/16" was ridiculously small, I drilled it out to 3/8" because that seemed reasonable in my mind. The resulting waterfall shower was great, but draining the hot water heater tank in less than 10 minutes eventually convinced me to replace the head with a stock replacement.
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Jun 26, 2015 02:42
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