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HotCanadianChick posted:How long do you own your bikes that you ever need to bleed them more than once, though? I change my brake fluid like every 6 months what the hell? Does your brake fluid look like used oil or something? 
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Jun 22, 2015 20:12
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Slavvy posted:Why? I'm paranoid after boiling fluid at a trackday and having a very fast runoff. Flush/bleed every time now. It takes no time to do and I don't like brake fluid sitting around for very long after it's been opened.
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Jun 22, 2015 20:38
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Digital_Jesus posted:I change my brake fluid like every 6 months what the hell? Yes.
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Jun 22, 2015 20:51
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I bleed mine maybe once a year, or every few trackdays if I'm running a trackbike that I use the brakes a lot on. Every 6 months seems like massive overkill.
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Jun 22, 2015 22:14
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In road use the stuff is meant to last two years before it absorbs enough water to make a difference.BlackMK4 posted:I'm paranoid after boiling fluid at a trackday and having a very fast runoff. Flush/bleed every time now. How the crikey did you manage to boil dot 5.1 using a motorbike?
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Jun 22, 2015 23:14
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You'll boil fluid, even the really nice stuff, at fast pace on a track.
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Jun 23, 2015 00:01
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You can boil fluid commuting too. 
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Jun 23, 2015 01:13
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cursedshitbox posted:You can boil fluid commuting too. Looks like someone's been riding around Atlanta! [Alternatively, put your city of choice in place of "Atlanta"]
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Jun 23, 2015 01:47
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Z3n posted:You'll boil fluid, even the really nice stuff, at fast pace on a track. I'm just surprised because my last track experience on the matter was a v12 swapped e34 with standard brakes, and that couldn't boil 5.1 despite being a tank with way too much power. I'm amazed that a bike, with it's comparatively tiny weight and over-powered brakes hanging out in the breeze could manage it. Learn something new every day!
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Jun 23, 2015 01:51
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Perhaps it had poo poo pads, poo poo tires, and/or you weren't on a big braking track.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 02:03
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Slavvy posted:I'm just surprised because my last track experience on the matter was a v12 swapped e34 with standard brakes, and that couldn't boil 5.1 despite being a tank with way too much power. I'm amazed that a bike, with it's comparatively tiny weight and over-powered brakes hanging out in the breeze could manage it. Learn something new every day! Well, significantly less rotor area, half as many brakes, effectively, as you're really using the fronts in anger, and a grip more speed thanks to the superior power to weight setup. That V12 E34 sounds like a giggle and a half though...
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Jun 23, 2015 04:05
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BlackMK4 posted:Perhaps it had poo poo pads, poo poo tires, and/or you weren't on a big braking track. It was at pukekohe, which has a straight long enough for literbikes to hit 300km/h, but admittedly no series of short straights punctuated by slow corners. I can't remember what sort of pads it had (this was six years ago after all) and take-off slicks. Z3n posted:Well, significantly less rotor area, half as many brakes, effectively, as you're really using the fronts in anger, and a grip more speed thanks to the superior power to weight setup. The crusty 4 speed automatic really let it down, my mate's manual 540i lapped quite a bit faster despite having less power. Sounded cool though. I have the feeling it's the less rotorage that makes the biggest difference because serious every race bike I've seen has had solid discs, which to me would indicate that they value fade-resistance more than unsprung lightness.
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Jun 23, 2015 04:20
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Slavvy posted:I have the feeling it's the less rotorage that makes the biggest difference because serious every race bike I've seen has had solid discs, which to me would indicate that they value fade-resistance more than unsprung lightness. I thought the holes were for extra air movement, not weight?
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Jun 23, 2015 12:42
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Well, on cars they're entirely cosmetic and do nothing except weaken the disc and reduce the amount of heat they can absorb. On bikes I've always figured there's an unsprung weight advantage to drilling them, but it could be cosmetic too for all I know.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:54
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Slavvy posted:Well, on cars they're entirely cosmetic and do nothing except weaken the disc and reduce the amount of heat they can absorb. On bikes I've always figured there's an unsprung weight advantage to drilling them, but it could be cosmetic too for all I know. I thought they were actually to improve cooling and water dispersal, but I've nothing to back that up. Bike disks are way thinner than car ones, so maybe the idea is they get hot a lot quicker so best to let them cool as quickly as possible too?
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Jun 23, 2015 22:21
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I thought they were to disperse pad material to avoid glazing the rotor surface. Anyway everybody knows slotted rotors are way cooler than drilled ones.
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Jun 23, 2015 22:35
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I thought they were actually to improve cooling and water dispersal, but I've nothing to back that up. Bike disks are way thinner than car ones, so maybe the idea is they get hot a lot quicker so best to let them cool as quickly as possible too? It doesn't work that way. The less metal there is, the worse a heatsink they are. clutchpuck posted:I thought they were to disperse pad material to avoid glazing the rotor surface. That hasn't been a problem since the 70's.
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Jun 23, 2015 23:31
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Is that because I haven't seen a solid rotor since forever?
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Jun 23, 2015 23:36
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Pads outgassing hasn't been an issue since the 70's I mean. Slotted discs do work as advertised AFAIK but tend to annihilate pads so you don't really see them on road vehicles.
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Jun 24, 2015 01:44
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Correction: you see them on cool road vehicles.
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Jun 24, 2015 17:56
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I always feel bad when clutchpuck posts, it's like some twisted version of stockholm syndrome.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:38
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Replaced the front pads with official BremboŽ ones. They are red. 
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Jun 24, 2015 23:07
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Tanbo posted:I always feel bad when clutchpuck posts, it's like some twisted version of stockholm syndrome. Sunk cost fallacy
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Jun 25, 2015 02:44
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Chichevache posted:Sunk cost fallacy "I've already spent countless dollars and man-hours on this wreck, and now that I'm getting rid of it, I can't just throw away all those tricks I learned to keep it going! Better play it safe and buy another one." Same thing appears to apply to ducatis, though to a lesser degree.
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Jun 25, 2015 04:13
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Slavvy posted:Slotted discs do work as advertised AFAIK but tend to annihilate pads Food processor fallacy. The slots do not act like a cutting disc.* But I suppose if the inside of the slot starts to rust, the material can expand and start eating into the disc. * By reading this internet post you agree that this comment pertains to slotted discs in general and is not to be interpreted as an endorsement of Buell Motorcycle Company, it's parents, subsidiaries, products or patents.
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Jun 25, 2015 13:00
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Slavvy posted:"I've already spent countless dollars and man-hours on this wreck, and now that I'm getting rid of it, I can't just throw away all those tricks I learned to keep it going! Better play it safe and buy another one." This plus, if you live in Europe, the investment you made in SAE tools.
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Jun 25, 2015 18:13
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Tanbo posted:I always feel bad when clutchpuck posts, it's like some twisted version of stockholm syndrome. They call me king turd up here on poo poo mountain.
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Jun 26, 2015 15:27
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clutchpuck posted:They call me king turd up here on poo poo mountain. Never, ever change clutchpuck. The day you buy a sensible japanese bike, part of the essence of this forum will be lost.
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Jun 26, 2015 20:16
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Slavvy posted:Never, ever change clutchpuck. The day you buy a sensible japanese bike, part of the essence of this forum will be lost. If he ever buys a Japanese bike it will be a Suzuki RE5 or something else equal parts ingenuity and bad ideas that should have stayed on the drawing board.
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Jun 27, 2015 06:41
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Would it crush you to know I have 3 Japanese bikes in the garage? Today, I am working on intake seals on the Buell. You have to take so drat much off that I might as well fix up some lameness while it's off. Sprayed the muffler with some VHT header paint.   Got the wheel off and the bearings were pretty rough feeling so I took the wheel in to Lynnwood Motoplex, replaced the Pirelli Scorpion Sync on it - with a 2007 date code - with a new Metzeler Tourance Next, had them replace the bearings and spacer with parts I had in a box. They finished in an hour on a busy-season Saturday, $35 labor on the tire swap, I am pleased. It's rotated out. Ugh.  Engine is back in. Intake seals *look* like they're in there ok. I hope I didn't eff it all up. poo poo's tight under the airbox and, uh, I can't seem to find the head temp sensor loom-side connector. e: I'd like an RE5 or a Water Buffalo even though I don't really like Suzukis. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jun 28, 2015 |
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Jun 28, 2015 02:31
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I've done the intake seals twice without dropping the engine and it sucked, but so does dropping it I guess. I replaced my battery and in the process discovered one of the tabs that hold the ecu (part of the battery tray) had snapped off, thankfully it was easy enough to weld back on. It seems we've started a trajectory where as soon as I fix one thing on this bike something else breaks, so I might get rid of it soon.
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Jun 28, 2015 18:31
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rear wheelspacers arrived for the drz.  Motherfucker why didn't I catch this the other day. oh well at least I have spacers in place now. STUPID PO.  Pulled the heavy in to drill out the broken rack bolts/extractor from 2 months ago and install a not-broken horn.  Salvaged from one of my prior rovers. Stupid, Stupid idea. Note its now leaking, and the vacuum petcock is taking a poo poo. Next should be electrical gremlins.
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Jun 29, 2015 01:12
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Oil + filter change, replaced stock grips with Ourys, loctited on those bastard loving bikemaster barend mirrors that keep loosening from the slightest wind  e: It was red loctite, rip in peace M42 fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 03:38
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Got all geared up, dried the remains of the torrential weekend off the seat and didn't go anywhere because of a loving dead battery.
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Jun 29, 2015 13:22
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Managed to be a retard and not strap down a bag properly for a short 10km trip. That caused my right rear indicator to melt as the bag pushed it onto the exhaust.  So saturday was a trip to the local Biltema for some aftermarket generic led indicators. Kinda wanted to keep the old one of the left, start a new lopsided style trend. 
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Jun 29, 2015 14:47
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High Protein posted:I've done the intake seals twice without dropping the engine and it sucked, but so does dropping it I guess. You don't have a Thunderstorm motor with the wider-set flange bolts, either, huh? That must be a gigantic fiddly mess to do with the engine up. Truth be told I don't think there's much more practical working room with the engine down than with the engine up. Too bad I didn't need to do rocker box gaskets and spark plugs too because taking 6 hours to roll the engine out really begs for doing a bunch of top end service. On the other hand, there's no way it will take me that long next time because the RSS will not have a stuck bolt and my muffler straps will be oriented properly. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 16:15
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  petcock.
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Jun 30, 2015 03:57
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Shhh, the bike is sleeping.
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Jun 30, 2015 13:20
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Geirskogul posted:Shhh, the bike is sleeping. It's trying to figure out what's wrong with that jeep. "Hmm, looks like you've got some fluid coming out of the differential there. Probably blew a gasket." "You're not really a mechanic, are you?" *honks sadly*
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Jun 30, 2015 15:01
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I had to take the swingarm off of my TW200 in order to put a new chain wear strip on this past weekend. Getting the swingarm put back on was a bit trickier, but after a lot of finagling I got it back on there. Also replaced the old rusty chain (PO put new sprockets on, but left the old chain? Weird.) while I had the bike on a stand. New battery is coming in today, so maybe my lights won't flicker anymore while the engine is idling!
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Jun 30, 2015 15:23
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