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Any opinions on a 2012 tundra with the 5.7? Good, bad, ugly? Will it actually stand up to towing on a regular basis?
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Jun 28, 2015 14:51
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I'm back and my car sucks again! After changing my own brakes a few weeks ago (those work fine), my car doesn't particularly want to shift into first, or sometimes second. I'll have the clutch all the way to the floor but the gear selector feels like it doesn't want to go in, like something is physically obstructing it from sliding up and into gear. I'll push as hard as I can, shove the drat thing in, and after that the car drives just fine. No hiccups in power, no grinding, no nothing. Sometimes second gear gives me the same attitude, but 3, 4, 5, and reverse all work perfectly. I think it's an issue with my clutch being old and starting to break; this car has lived through 13 New England winters, and was at the epicenter of Boston's 110+ inches of snow this year, so it's no spring chicken. I have been asked if this happens when/because I downshift incorrectly, and the answer I gave to that is that I don't really downshift very much, and when I shift at all I'm very careful. I drive my car like a grandma because I want it to last me as long as possible. So I axe you: Is it just my clutch being crappy? I don't want to have to pay a garage to take my whole car apart, tell me what's wrong and put it back together and give me a nice bill for the trouble. I'd like to just have the parts ready to go and find somewhere to install them.
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Jun 28, 2015 16:15
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What car is it? Sounds like a clutch hydraulics / linkage problem.
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Jun 28, 2015 17:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:What car is it? It's a 2003 Madza 6
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Jun 28, 2015 18:00
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Looks like it has a hydraulic clutch with an external slave cylinder, which is very good for you in terms of labor costs. Check fluid levels first - it might share the brake fluid reservoir, or it might have its own. Either way, make sure it has enough fluid, and if so, see if perhaps pumping the clutch makes it easier to shift. If you want to crawl around a bit, inspect both the master and slave cylinders for any leakage or seepage, and if corrosion is a concern, check the hard line between the two for leaks.
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Jun 28, 2015 18:07
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Thanks for the insight, I checked the fluid reservoir and it's completely full - has been since before and after I changed my brakes, topped it off after that obviously. Again, it shifts just fine going into gears 2(sometimes), 3, 4, 5, and reverse. It's just first gear that causes trouble, and even then just the act of putting the car in gear, the driving is fine. I don't really have the means to lift the car up enough to get underneath the front, and even then I wouldn't know what exactly to look for... I might just have to take it to a garage and have it looked at.
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Jun 28, 2015 18:24
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Yousomuscle posted:Thanks for the insight, I checked the fluid reservoir and it's completely full - has been since before and after I changed my brakes, topped it off after that obviously. Again, it shifts just fine going into gears 2(sometimes), 3, 4, 5, and reverse. It's just first gear that causes trouble, and even then just the act of putting the car in gear, the driving is fine. I don't really have the means to lift the car up enough to get underneath the front, and even then I wouldn't know what exactly to look for... I might just have to take it to a garage and have it looked at. Why is it obvious you topped off the clutch fluid after doing the brakes?
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Jun 28, 2015 18:39
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Toshimo posted:Other than eBay, is there a good place to look for very specific accessories? I'm trying to find, of all things, a set of factory floor mats for a 2001 Jeep Wrangler. I'm just guessing that nobody except the dealer is going to have any 15-year old floor mats. Quadratec sometimes has Mopar, but if I had to guess, TJ factory floor mats probably aren't in production anymore. Most people buying mats for a Jeep are going to want the good ones from Weathertech or Quadratec, etc.
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Jun 28, 2015 18:42
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Yousomuscle posted:Thanks for the insight, I checked the fluid reservoir and it's completely full - has been since before and after I changed my brakes, topped it off after that obviously. Again, it shifts just fine going into gears 2(sometimes), 3, 4, 5, and reverse. It's just first gear that causes trouble, and even then just the act of putting the car in gear, the driving is fine. I don't really have the means to lift the car up enough to get underneath the front, and even then I wouldn't know what exactly to look for... I might just have to take it to a garage and have it looked at. Try putting the car in other gears before you put it into first. If that seems to make it easier, it could be synchro related. I had a car that did that, I just sort of got in the habit of running it into other gears before 1st. Also, are you ever shifting into 1st while moving? You shouldn't, and the car being balky about it isnt really uncommon.
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Jun 28, 2015 19:10
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Godholio posted:I'm just guessing that nobody except the dealer is going to have any 15-year old floor mats. Quadratec sometimes has Mopar, but if I had to guess, TJ factory floor mats probably aren't in production anymore. Most people buying mats for a Jeep are going to want the good ones from Weathertech or Quadratec, etc. It's for my dad. He's old and they are the 60th Anniversary branded mats. 
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Jun 28, 2015 20:03
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Time was, old  type places would possibly have stuff like that on a shelf gathering dust, but I think that doesn't really happen as much now, better stock control etc.Looking online, the mats look like this:  So I think a set of good-quality aftermarket mats plus having someone make you the right embroidered patches would give you a set indistinguishable from the originals, and probably not out the way in terms of cost.
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Jun 28, 2015 20:40
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^That's a good idea. You might be able to find some other TJ (up through 06) mats that could have the logo put on. This is a little different than just finding normal OE mats, I no longer think you're crazy.
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Jun 28, 2015 20:54
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FYI plain jeep floormats: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1373723&parttype=741
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Jun 28, 2015 22:05
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I bought an AVS window visor kit (and front deflector) for my 2006 Outback wagon, but I was just wondering- how do you open the doors with visors hanging over the windows? The third generation Outback, like most older Subarus, has frameless windows. This is not my car, nor do I believe are these the same brand of visors I bought, but it illustrates what I'm asking. See how the window tucks up underneath the visors? I feel like you'd have to roll them at least a quarter of the way down every time you open the doors. 
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Jun 29, 2015 00:37
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My mustang is the same way, and they just stick more straight out than curving downward.  I dont have them, I dont think they look good with a frameless window. Your subaru may vary.
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Jun 29, 2015 03:11
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Ozmiander posted:Why is it obvious you topped off the clutch fluid after doing the brakes? Because the manual states that the clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir. EDIT: Or am I retarded? I might be. PaintVagrant posted:Try putting the car in other gears before you put it into first. If that seems to make it easier, it could be synchro related. I had a car that did that, I just sort of got in the habit of running it into other gears before 1st. Now that I think about it, I can't say for certain that I wasn't sitting still. I'll keep that in mind Now it's gone on to making a nice chugging noise in neutral, and it knocks around when I'm at ~1500 rpm, in any gear... Maybe a spark plug has gone wrong? I am liking my car less every day... Yousomuscle fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 03:28
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My street flooded earlier tonight, putting my 2012 Honda Accord in water up to just below the headlights. How hosed up should I expect the car to be? Still runs but smells a bit mildewey hosed? Or take it out back and put it out of its misery hosed?
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Jun 29, 2015 04:19
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Water intrusion into the cabin? If not all of the electrical connections outside the cabin (should) be waterproof and you're probably OK, if yes then you're probably hosed.
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Jun 29, 2015 05:23
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2002 Dodge Ram 1500, regular cab, base model. My mother scraped the bejeezus out of the driver's side of her truck. I can find a replacement mirror easily enough, but how easy would it be to replace the left front fender and left driver's side door body panel? And if it's feasible, what's the easiest (cheapest) way to find the parts? Do I have to call every junkyard in the DFW area? She's not worried about color-matching at this point, but will probably want to repaint the whole truck at some later date. What are some tips for finding a good-yet-cheap place to get that done? All things considered she'd like this to total less than the cost of getting it done at a body shop.
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Jun 29, 2015 05:31
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WanderingMinstrel I posted:My street flooded earlier tonight, putting my 2012 Honda Accord in water up to just below the headlights. How hosed up should I expect the car to be? Still runs but smells a bit mildewey hosed? Or take it out back and put it out of its misery hosed? This is why you have insurance. Let them deal with it. As Geoj said, if water got into the cabin, multiple electronics will have issues - a lot of modules live under the seats and under the center console, Honda sometimes puts some modules behind the kick panels too. Even if it was a minimal amount of water, you're going to want to let insurance handle it, as there's really no easy way to get the mildew smell out of the carpet on your own.
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Jun 29, 2015 06:17
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Howard Phillips fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Sep 21, 2022 |
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Jun 29, 2015 19:56
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The stereo will come with a bracket/frame to use which you can jimmy up to work. You'll need either a set of adaptor connectors to go from the plugs on the back of the stereo to the factory toyota connectors, or you'll need to manually crimp/solder/whatever the wires onto their appropriate counterparts on the factory wiring.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:01
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Howard Phillips posted:So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry sedan with stock CD player and non JBL audio system.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:03
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Hi guys, I recently purchased a 1999 Ford Fiesta LX Zetec, 1.25l engine, manual transmission, from a used car dealership. First car with 92k miles on the clock. On the way to grab some lunch today, I noticed the clutch pedal was a lot higher than it used to be and there was almost no pressure at all. It also felt like the biting point of the clutch was much lower than it used to be. However, gears etc. would still change no problem and there was no slippage. Once I pulled into a bay in the parking lot, I needed to straighten up. Shifted to reverse gear and the clutch immediately stalled. Engine off, engine on, and the car started reversing with the clutch pedal all the way down, which allowed me to reverse it into a quiet area where I could take a look. I was subsequently unable to change gear from reverse to any other gear, meeting active resistance when I tried. I had no problem going back to reverse however. Breakdown repair guy turned up, and took a look under the hood. He noted that the clutch hydraulic fluid was quite low, and when he topped it up he confirmed there was a small leak underneath which likely pointed to a hydraulic leak somewhere, perhaps the master cylinder. So with that in mind, we restored pressure to the clutch and I was able to drive it to a garage to get looked at. I had no problems changing gears and didn't encounter any slippage on the way there. The mistake I made at this point (As I was late for work) is that I just reported there was a "problem with the clutch" and only mentioned the leak as an afterthought. Later today the garage called me up and said the entire clutch needed to be replaced. I'm not an experienced mechanic; not even an amateur one, but I was surprised nonetheless mainly due to the breakdown repair guy's report. Does it sound like the clutch does indeed need to be replaced? Working through the process of how the clutch works in my head, it sounds to me like it's just the hydraulics due to not experiencing any other problems once pressure was restored. Thanks, apologies if most of this was rambling!
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Jun 29, 2015 22:29
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Not sure if it applies to the sub-1.8 liter engined models but the MkI Focus had a plastic clutch master cylinder that is a ticking time bomb from the day it is installed (brake fluid is semi corrosive to plastics.) The sign that it needs to be replaced is fluid leaking onto the clutch pedal, but I doubt you would have failed to notice a puddle of brake fluid collecting on the floormat. The likelier scenario is the slave cylinder inside the transmission started leaking and has been dumping brake fluid into the bellhousing for some time. This would both explain the inability to shift and needing to have the clutch replaced - once the friction material on the clutch disc gets saturated with brake fluid it will never grip right again, and it would be silly to go through the trouble of removing the transmission to get at the slave cylinder and not replace the clutch at the same time. The cost of the part will be a drop in the bucket compared with the labor to remove and reinstall the transmission. e: disregard what I said about the Focus, I saw "Zetec" and immediately assumed it was the engine and not the trim level Ford uses in Europe... Geoj fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 22:44
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Yes, I believe they are plastic. Unfortunately, the clutch slave cylinder - which is the more common failure point on most systems - is what Geoj is talkign about, it's called a concentric design, it's inside the gearbox, and in order to change it, you have to do 95% of the work of changing the clutch. It's not necessarily true that the clutch is worn to the point of failure, but on a 16 year old car, you'd be mad not to do it "while you're in there". What sort of money have they quoted you, and have they included hydraulic components as well as a new clutch assembly? Those Fiestas are excellent little cars, though, they handle really well. Keep an eye out for rust, particularly around the rear arches, however.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:48
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Thanks guys! The slave cylinder failing does make sense - When I popped the hood earlier today I noticed the brake fluid was waaaaaay below minimum, a good inch or so lower than the minimum marker. Forgot to mention it. I guess it makes sense to replace the entire thing, as well. They've quoted me £300 incl parts and labour. It's not that bad, I can afford it; it's just a pain when I paid £500 for the car! I'm not sure if they've included hydraulic components and the clutch assembly; I'll be sure to check tomorrow. The receptionist who relayed the quote information just said "New clutch", so more information's needed. Do you think it's worth taking it to another garage just down the road to get a second hands-on opinion? InitialDave posted:Those Fiestas are excellent little cars, though, they handle really well. Keep an eye out for rust, particularly around the rear arches, however. Agreed! It's far nicer to drive than my instructor's Corsa was. Handles well on tight turns etc. There is a little rust on the underside, but it's surface rust thankfully. I'm hoping to just keep the car driving for a year, enough for insurance to go down, and then scrap/part exchange it for a better one. Thanks for your help again.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:56
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£300 for a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and slave cylinder - with labour - is not that bad. If they're using generic components, their parts cost is about 20-40% of that quote, the rest is likely labour. You may get a slightly cheaper price somewhere, but if you're happy with the people you're using, I wouldn't say they're gouging you on the money. The slave should be included, as it is both the release mechanism, and carries the bearing that allows everything to spin nicely when you have the pedal depressed. I certainly wouldn't do the job and leave the old one there, even if it seems perfect. VVVV: American pricing seems weird. Sometimes your stuff is ridiculously cheap, sometimes it's  .
InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 23:23
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Im not in the uk but but £300 seems like an awesome price for a clutch job. I got a clutch replaced in a car 10 years ago on a mazda 626 and it was almost 1000usd. (Needed a flywheen but that didn't add that much more to the price). Fuckin car poped a brake line due to rust 3 months later.. was going to cost 2k to fix all the brake/gas lines that were going to die.
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Jun 29, 2015 23:27
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Sell or scrap? 2003 Mazda 6i with 145,000 miles. Body is in fair condition - lots of dings/scratches, some rusty spots that could be fixed, some stereotypical Mazda wheel well rust on the back/passenger side that would likely be more trouble than it would be worth to fix. Mechanically it is in good shape, I just dropped a junkyard engine with 90,000 miles into it early in 2014 at ~135,000 miles, automatic transmission shifts well and fluid is in good shape, no check engine light and recently passed emissions (which in Ohio means they can scan OBD-II and find the computer in a monitor-ready state with no pending or logged codes). And it has a salvage title - was supposed to have been in a flood but we weren't ever able to find evidence of water intrusion into the cabin and hasn't had any major electrical problems beyond what you'd expect from a 12 year old car - replaced the alternator last fall and had some issues with corrosion at the battery terminals. I've never scrapped a car before - any idea what I'd be likely to get from a recycler with it in good running condition? I'd wait for one of those "pull/drag/tow it in and we'll give you $3,000 on trade" deals but I don't ever plan on buying a brand new car. If I'm just going to get about the same for it selling it on CL as scrapping it I'll just save myself the trouble of dealing with craigslist flakes and take the easy money now.
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Jun 30, 2015 01:58
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Sell it. You won't even get a grand for it from a recycler, so you might as well toss it up on CL for $2500 or something and see whether you get any bites. Last time I was in a similar situation, Pick-N-Pull offered me $280 for a running, driving car, and that was before the current slump in scrap prices.
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 03:09
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Howard Phillips posted:So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry sedan with stock CD player and non JBL audio system. A former coworker put that exact stereo into the exact same car. Just get the stuff Crutchfield says you need with it. Definitely a wiring harness, probably a mounting kit, possibly an antenna adapter.
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Jun 30, 2015 03:20
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zundfolge posted:Sell it. You won't even get a grand for it from a recycler, so you might as well toss it up on CL for $2500 or something and see whether you get any bites. Last time I was in a similar situation, Pick-N-Pull offered me $280 for a running, driving car, and that was before the current slump in scrap prices. OK - I was expecting to take a bath on it but not 90% off resale value. If I could even get close to a thousand out of it I'd be happy but yeah, gently caress getting taken to the cleaners like that.
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Jun 30, 2015 03:47
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Pick n Pull basically offers scrap metal prices, even on a running car in decent condition. They put the best of what they get out for sale as complete cars, usually with clean titles, as "fixers". Usually not worth remotely what they're asking for them. Friend of mine just sold her car to them. $190.  They were the only ones willing to take it the same day (2005 Saturn Ion with a windowed engine block), so she had them take it. I was hoping to snag a couple of parts from her, but by the time I found out, it was already on the truck. Parts for the coupes are hard enough to find.  And I guarantee they stuck it out in the yard with no indication that the engine was hosed, so whoever sees a clean Ion coupe in the Seattle Pick n Pull will be in for a rude shock when they remove the engine and find a hole in the block on the firewall side.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:43
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I recently bought a lovely 1980 Dodge Sportsman with the intention of making it look even shittier for a Mad Max thing out in the California desert. We're attaching all sorts of rusted junk to it, so I'd love some advice on what tools/supplies to use to ensure giant chunks of metal don't fly off on the way there. Hell, even advice or resources on drilling out the body would be great. The problem is every resource I've found so far has been on DIY without making the car look lovely, which is the opposite of what I need.
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Jun 30, 2015 13:19
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BeepBoopBatman posted:The problem is every resource I've found so far has been on DIY without making the car look lovely, which is the opposite of what I need. Mod Max
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Jun 30, 2015 13:47
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Thank you you beautiful soul. vvv that's just what I want to hear! BeepBoopBatman fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 13:48
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jun 30, 2015 13:50
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some texas redneck posted:A former coworker put that exact stereo into the exact same car. Purchased along with the cage and adapter that was "free" after adding to cart. Crutchfield price was $25 higher than Amazon but came with said extra stuff so went with Crutchfield. Thanks for help. This also goes out to Cage and Slavvy for help.
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Jul 1, 2015 00:59
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ROFLburger posted:Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? Hey guys. My tapping/knocking noise is still here. It went away for a good 5-7 days, but now its back. Using a mechanic's stethoscope, the noise is most certainly in the head (though it can still be heard on the top of the block). It's loudest on the corner towards the passenger, right next to the MIVEC sprocket. Could you guys take a quick listen to a video I just made? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J_XnmVnA5g You can't see poo poo, but the hood is popped and I'm hovering my phone about a foot or two above the valve cover. I gave it a little throttle towards the end to show how it increases with RPM. I've never dealt with lifter issues in the past, but from what I've read, it sounds consistent? Just wanted your guys' opinions This dude had a very similar noise and he said new lifters resolved the issue https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vivA0FeiFno
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Jul 1, 2015 05:41
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