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ROFLburger posted:Hey guys. My tapping/knocking noise is still here. It went away for a good 5-7 days, but now its back. Using a mechanic's stethoscope, the noise is most certainly in the head (though it can still be heard on the top of the block). It's loudest on the corner towards the passenger, right next to the MIVEC sprocket. That's a pretty classic case of mitsi lifter syndrome. Someone in the past skipped/delayed/cheaped out on an oil change and now you get to shovel their poo poo.
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Jul 1, 2015 07:23
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2002 S2000 - 32k miles. I haven't gotten to look at the car yet (Friday) but he complained of the clutch feeling spongy and getting stuck. I told him to bleed it, which he did. Worked great at first, but now the clutch engages high and slips in higher gears (ie. freeway roll on). Bad slave, right? It's not leaking.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:45
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BlackMK4 posted:2002 S2000 - 32k miles. Either way if the price is right it'd be a pretty good buy. That's a tiny amount of miles - has the timing belt been done? Dry rot ETC.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:12
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Metallian posted:I've had a 2003 Mazda Protege5 (2.0 FS-DE, 5MT) for about a year now. Its original owner kept wonderful care of it and it's in great shape, but it has one problem that has been haunting me. So turns out this was, of all things, the pedal assembly. Over time the bracket that locates and adjusts the cylinder plunger spread out where it is pinned to the pivot. This introduced enough slop to get the whole thing to bind at a slight angle half the time. When it was in correct alignment, the other half the time, no problem. I guess the variance had the hydraulics trying to play catch up constantly. I popped a poly washer in the gap and everything is perfect. I'll replace the whole assembly eventually.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:35
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That's an interesting one. I've had one where the metal of the bulkhead was split, and pushing the pedal was levering it away rather than pushing the master cylinder. The trick was that the bulkhead was two layers of metal, and from the engine bay, it all looked exactly right - it was only by putting your head right in the footwell and looking up under the dash you could see the issue.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:42
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VelociBacon posted:Either way if the price is right it'd be a pretty good buy. That's a tiny amount of miles - has the timing belt been done? Dry rot ETC. It's a friend's car. He overpaid for it (imo), but...
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Jul 1, 2015 22:56
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BlackMK4 posted:2002 S2000 - 32k miles. That doesn't make sense, a bad slave/master would make the clutch more difficult to disengage, it wouldn't make it slip.
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Jul 1, 2015 23:19
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Slavvy posted:That doesn't make sense, a bad slave/master would make the clutch more difficult to disengage, it wouldn't make it slip. That's what I'm saying, but the slipping coincides with the clutch bleed. I figured maybe it's sticking partially engaged somehow. Or it could just be the clutch is done and it's a strange coincidence.
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Jul 1, 2015 23:32
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If I'm replacing a noisey valve lifter, is it advisable to replace all of the lifters? Or can I get away with replacing just one? I don't give a poo poo if I have to go back in and replace a different lifter in 4 months. I don't mind the work. 4g63 evo for reference, if it matters
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Jul 1, 2015 23:33
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If you're doing one you might as well do them all IMO. Is there any issue with replacing lifters and NOT replacing the pushrods? I changed all the lifters and pushrods in my jeep's 4.0 and it didn't quiet down the the cracked connecting rod one bit. Hopefully your lifters are the problem 
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Jul 1, 2015 23:39
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Astonishing Wang posted:If you're doing one you might as well do them all IMO. Is there any issue with replacing lifters and NOT replacing the pushrods? DOHC, no pushrods. I can't imagine the problem isn't the lifters but I also don't k ow very much about cylinder heads. I'm just wondering if I'm at risk for any other issues by only replacing one of the lifters, like magical oil pressure issues or uneven wear patterns
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Jul 1, 2015 23:54
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BlackMK4 posted:That's what I'm saying, but the slipping coincides with the clutch bleed. I figured maybe it's sticking partially engaged somehow. It doesn't make sense for a clutch to be done with that mileage though? Did he bleed it himself? I would think slave or just a bad bleed.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:09
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The cmc linkage could be misadjusted (assuming the s2000 works like some fwd hondas) where the clutch bite point is way too high, so the clutch is always partially disengaged, which would cause high rpm slip.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:25
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX automatic with a 4 cylinder. About 180,000 miles. Lately, when I've been driving, I'll try to accelerate and when it feels like it should shift gears, the RPMs jump and the cars almost jerks or stutters. I thought it was an issue with transmission fluid, but we checked it and it seemed fine. Not sure what could be the problem, but I assume something with the transmission. Any other ideas on what it could be? Should I just start looking to get a newer car?
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Jul 2, 2015 00:36
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Capsaicin posted:I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX automatic with a 4 cylinder. About 180,000 miles. Lately, when I've been driving, I'll try to accelerate and when it feels like it should shift gears, the RPMs jump and the cars almost jerks or stutters. I thought it was an issue with transmission fluid, but we checked it and it seemed fine. Not sure what could be the problem, but I assume something with the transmission. Any other ideas on what it could be? Should I just start looking to get a newer car? Are you able to pull any codes from the ecu?
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Jul 2, 2015 00:53
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PaintVagrant posted:The cmc linkage could be misadjusted (assuming the s2000 works like some fwd hondas) where the clutch bite point is way too high, so the clutch is always partially disengaged, which would cause high rpm slip. Definitely could be this, would explain why the pedal was sticking at the bottom if the rod was somehow kinking over at full push.
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Jul 2, 2015 02:07
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I've got a '97 Olds 88 (Series II 3800 V6)@ 167kmi that developed a lifter tick. It was getting pretty loud, so I did an oil change with Pennzoil High-mileage. It's much quieter now, but it never goes away. It used to clear up after about 10 minutes of driving, but now it's always there at low RPM (idle). Oil additive time? Does it just need some piece of crud cleared out? Drive it at high speed for a while and let the oil thin and clear up the lifter passage?
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Jul 2, 2015 05:52
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've got a '97 Olds 88 (Series II 3800 V6)@ 167kmi that developed a lifter tick. It was getting pretty loud, so I did an oil change with Pennzoil High-mileage. It's much quieter now, but it never goes away. It used to clear up after about 10 minutes of driving, but now it's always there at low RPM (idle). Try some Marvels Mystery Oil in it.
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Jul 2, 2015 12:03
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I just saw a seafoam green car that looked like the lovechild of an old beetle and an even-older military jeep. It was about the size of an beetle, and it had kinda an arched roof going on, but it was made out of flat panels instead of curved ones. I saw it in Austin, TX and it had Texas plates. This is probably too vague of a description, but can any of y'all think of a car that matches it? Edit: \/\/ Nailed it! It was definitely one of those. Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 2, 2015 19:49
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Corla Plankun posted:I just saw a seafoam green car that looked like the lovechild of an old beetle and an even-older military jeep. It was about the size of an beetle, and it had kinda an arched roof going on, but it was made out of flat panels instead of curved ones. I saw it in Austin, TX and it had Texas plates. This is probably too vague of a description, but can any of y'all think of a car that matches it? Sounds like it could have been a VW Thing but no curved roof. 
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Jul 2, 2015 19:51
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Corla Plankun posted:I just saw a seafoam green car that looked like the lovechild of an old beetle and an even-older military jeep. It was about the size of an beetle, and it had kinda an arched roof going on, but it was made out of flat panels instead of curved ones. I saw it in Austin, TX and it had Texas plates. This is probably too vague of a description, but can any of y'all think of a car that matches it? Citroen 2CV?
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Jul 2, 2015 20:04
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Slavvy posted:Citroen 2CV? 
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Jul 2, 2015 20:24
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VelociBacon posted:Are you able to pull any codes from the ecu? Apparently an issue with an "EGR Valve"? 
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Jul 2, 2015 20:53
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There's several codes for the EGR system that can point to different problems, we'd need the actual numeric code (generally of the format Pxxxx).
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Jul 2, 2015 21:19
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I'm guessing you're going to take it into a shop anyway, but unless there's an unrelated EGR problem happening at the same time as a transmission problem, it's extremely likely that the judgement on "should I replace the car or fix it" will be solidly in the fix it zone. A Y2K Accord, especially with a four cylinder like yours, is a solid car. Honda's automatics weren't the best around then but they still did their job just fine as long as it wasn't a V6 too.
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Jul 2, 2015 21:26
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Enourmo posted:There's several codes for the EGR system that can point to different problems, we'd need the actual numeric code (generally of the format Pxxxx). Sorry. P1491
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Jul 2, 2015 22:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've got a '97 Olds 88 (Series II 3800 V6)@ 167kmi that developed a lifter tick. It was getting pretty loud, so I did an oil change with Pennzoil High-mileage. It's much quieter now, but it never goes away. It used to clear up after about 10 minutes of driving, but now it's always there at low RPM (idle). Good news is these engines live with abuse pretty well. Try Marvel Mystery Oil and if that doesn't clear it up,you could go further in depth or just live with it. Some engines are just noisy as they age and with 160k+, I would say 200k mile wise will be pretty good.
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Jul 3, 2015 01:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm guessing you're going to take it into a shop anyway, but unless there's an unrelated EGR problem happening at the same time as a transmission problem, it's extremely likely that the judgement on "should I replace the car or fix it" will be solidly in the fix it zone. A Y2K Accord, especially with a four cylinder like yours, is a solid car. Honda's automatics weren't the best around then but they still did their job just fine as long as it wasn't a V6 too. The automatics behind the 4 cylinders were just fine - they really had no issues as long as you used genuine Honda ATF in them. The F23 (engine) in the 98-02 Accord is nearly impossible to kill as long as you change the timing belt now and then, and usually doesn't start spewing smoke until 300k+. If the transmission does wind up being bad, 98-02 Accord 4 cyl transmissions are a dime a dozen. Or a last generation Prelude transmission also bolts right in; your cruising RPMs wind up a bit higher (and mileage suffers a little because of it), but you wind up with better acceleration. It works with the same TCU (transmission control unit) and has the same bolt pattern. The interior and body on a 98-02 Accord, however, have to be some of the worst (in terms of fit and finish, also in quality) that Honda has ever cranked out.
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Jul 3, 2015 02:58
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Good news is these engines live with abuse pretty well. Try Marvel Mystery Oil and if that doesn't clear it up,you could go further in depth or just live with it. If mad max were real the cars would be powered primarily by jeep I6's, Toyota 4 bangers of various kinds and the GM 3800.
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Jul 3, 2015 04:03
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What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america?
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Jul 3, 2015 04:47
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Slavvy posted:If mad max were real the cars would be powered primarily by jeep I6's, Toyota 4 bangers of various kinds and the GM 3800. Mad Max with Jeep 4.0's would be pretty boring, tbh. Slow, reliable, and boring.
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Jul 3, 2015 04:51
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1500quidporsche posted:What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america? Depends, what's on sale?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:19
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So while I was driving this lovely 1980 Dodge Sportsman RV (same one mentioned in previous ask), went over a bump, heard a sputter and then saw a solar flare burst out from under the steering column and straight for my crotch. Needless to say I poo poo myself and pulled over, the fire went out almost instantly. Did some digging and it looks like a lot of the tubing is dry rot to hell and back, and I'm guessing this particularly flammable one was for the power steering. Had it towed to somewhere that's closed and gonna have to wait til Monday to call and find out what the damage is. Any advice for something like this? How much can I expect to pay to have all the tubing and wiring for this ancient deathtrap made somewhat safe?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:35
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BeepBoopBatman posted:So while I was driving this lovely 1980 Dodge Sportsman RV (same one mentioned in previous ask), went over a bump, heard a sputter and then saw a solar flare burst out from under the steering column and straight for my crotch. Needless to say I poo poo myself and pulled over, the fire went out almost instantly. Did some digging and it looks like a lot of the tubing is dry rot to hell and back, and I'm guessing this particularly flammable one was for the power steering. Had it towed to somewhere that's closed and gonna have to wait til Monday to call and find out what the damage is. Any advice for something like this? How much can I expect to pay to have all the tubing and wiring for this ancient deathtrap made somewhat safe? What does a new RV cost?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:36
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EightBit posted:What does a new RV cost? More than I have 
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Jul 3, 2015 05:40
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1500quidporsche posted:What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america? Torque RT700 has the highest dry boiling point that I know of and Amazon sells it. RBF600 is everywhere, works, and is cheap.
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Jul 3, 2015 05:50
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Slavvy posted:If mad max were real the cars would be powered primarily by jeep I6's, Toyota 4 bangers of various kinds and the GM 3800. 3800s are pretty drat good motors. They make decent power for the size, and they actually are decent on fuel if you don't cane them.
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Jul 3, 2015 06:24
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BeepBoopBatman posted:More than I have It'll probably cost that or more.. replacing wiring and hoses is really labor intensive and at $75/hr you are looking at a a decent bill. Especially since its an rv which means.. more wires and tubes. Better option would be to replace whatever melted/broke, keep a fire extinguisher on board and be prepared to walk away from a burning rv. Edit:fixed phone typos. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 11:46
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tater_salad posted:It'll probably cost that or more.. replacing wiring and hoses is really labor intensive and at $75/hr you are looking at a a decent bill. Especially since its an rv which means.. more wires and tubes. Yeah, the second option is probably what's gonna happen here. I only spent $600 to get this thing in the first place and wasn't exactly intending for it to have longevity.
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Jul 3, 2015 12:37
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VelociBacon posted:It doesn't make sense for a clutch to be done with that mileage though? Did he bleed it himself? I would think slave or just a bad bleed. Master is pissing fluid to the inside of the car. I'm swapping it out now, then we will see. edit:   Clutch engages high, I'm writing it off to the clutch being almost dead. It slips pretty easily under power. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 21:52
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