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bezel posted:And it works great! Except that it is leaking on the threaded side, which I may have over-tightened as now it is too tight to unscrew. I don't wanna sound like an rear end in a top hat, but you did remember to turn the water off and relieve the pressure before you tried to unthread it, right? It being under pressure would make it a lot harder to tighten or loosen. Motronic posted:It's not hard and beats the hell out of compression fittings. It's not a compression fitting. Honestly if it was it wouldn't be as questionable to leave for the long term - angle stops usually don't have leaks until you mess with them after all. That said everyone is right, just cut it out and solder it. (if you are unwilling or unable to solder use an actual compression fitting)
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Jun 14, 2015 04:40
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Eh, you know, I think I probably just wanted to do things the easy way instead of the correct way. Sometimes all it takes is a gentle "you're being a dumbass" to get me to wise up. So I cut out all that crap (removing a shark-bite fitting was not at all easy!) and replaced everything with good old-fashioned copper pipe and fitting. Soldering with a propane torch in that little area was scary at first but I found one of those heat-proof cloths at Home Depot and, wow, those do work as advertised. Pipe fitting is fun and educational  but I hope I won't have to do it again any time soon.
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Jun 14, 2015 19:32
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Edit: All fixed! Hooray!
MrsPooky fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 20:28
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Motronic posted:There's a larger nut on the shaft of the valve you turn to close it. So I can't detach anything. I looked up some videos and it showed how to unscrew the faucet from the pipe, but this thing isn't budging. We're beginning to think it's soldered on. I can't even get the faucet handle off the drat thing. Screw comes off, but the handle itself won't let go.
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Jun 20, 2015 01:16
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foxatee posted:So I can't detach anything. I looked up some videos and it showed how to unscrew the faucet from the pipe, but this thing isn't budging. We're beginning to think it's soldered on. I can't even get the faucet handle off the drat thing. Screw comes off, but the handle itself won't let go. You're trying to unscrew it wrong then. You want to screw the stem from the faucet. Would you please post a picture, then we'll tell you how to take it apart? As for the handle not coming off once the handle is removed, it may be time to give it a good whack from the side. Try softly with a hammer while trying to wiggle it off the whole time.
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Jun 20, 2015 01:58
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 I took the screw out of the handle and loosened the nut directly underneath. Tried tapping the handle a few times with a hammer, but it still won't come off. The main... I dunno, nut?... I've been trying to loosen looks like it's been stripped beyond belief or something.
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Jun 20, 2015 18:01
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foxatee posted:
It's called a bonnet. You will need a wrench with teeth to get that bonnet off. Try channelock pliers or a monkey wrench. Use a utility knife to cut through any caulk if it's glued to the house.
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Jun 20, 2015 20:16
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Thanks for the help, but I officially give up. I can't get a grip on the drat thing, and the more I try, the worse it gets. So gently caress it.
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Jun 20, 2015 22:29
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This little bastard will work for ya probably http://amzn.to/1RklOOB One of the best tools I didnt know existed.
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Jun 21, 2015 01:39
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tater_salad posted:This little bastard will work for ya probably
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Jun 25, 2015 02:42
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Yes I love it I've used it a lot and its made for a job like above.. when you need an adjustable wrench but one that actually holds its bite.. vise grips are alright but sometimes they suck in a situation like above.
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Jun 25, 2015 03:04
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Especially when you don't want to chew the poo poo out of the fitting/nut/bolt, but it's too rounded off to use the adjustable wrench very well. I'm definitely picking these up. 
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Jun 26, 2015 02:12
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I can drain my hot water tank. into my sump hole right? In the past my hwt was in a utility room and I emptied it right out the door.
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Jun 27, 2015 04:03
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Sure, nothing wrong with that. Just make sure the sump actually drains and you don't have a submersible pump in there that will die if you run some hot water through it (or do it in parts and add more cold water to the pit).
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Jun 27, 2015 19:49
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Quick question: I have a terrible smell coming from the toilet in my apartment. It smells like mold and sewer gas. I asked my landlord to have a plumber come check the seal and it looks like he just caulked around the edge of the toilet. The smell is lessened but it's still there, usually only at certain times of day (I think when other people in the building are using their water). Is there a problem on the actual drain line? Is it just the wax seal? I want to be able to diagnose the problem before asking for a plumber again, this guy doesn't exactly seem up to par. The other thing about the bathroom is that it doesn't have an exhaust fan, so it's pretty damp and mouldy already. Any tips on that would be appreciated too. It's an older place and not exactly top-of-the-line, but the landlord will fix things if I point them out.
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Jul 2, 2015 18:37
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Blackula69 posted:Quick question: I have a terrible smell coming from the toilet in my apartment. It smells like mold and sewer gas. I asked my landlord to have a plumber come check the seal and it looks like he just caulked around the edge of the toilet. The smell is lessened but it's still there, usually only at certain times of day (I think when other people in the building are using their water). Is there a problem on the actual drain line? Is it just the wax seal? I want to be able to diagnose the problem before asking for a plumber again, this guy doesn't exactly seem up to par. Sounds like the wax ring on the toilet needs to be replaced. It's a cheap fix, but it's a pain in the rear end to empty the toilet, unbolt it from the floor, pick it up, find a spot big enough to set it down on its side, clean the wax from old ring off the flange and toilet bottom, then swap in a new one without dropping the toilet wrong on the new ring and ruining it. As for the damp and mold, does that bathroom have a window that opens, i.e. not glued shut with paint or has broken hardware? If so, that counts as a vent as long as it's big enough. I forget the measurements, but they're pretty small to qualify. If not, then you need a fan.
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Jul 2, 2015 18:57
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kid sinister posted:Sounds like the wax ring on the toilet needs to be replaced. It's a cheap fix, but it's a pain in the rear end to empty the toilet, unbolt it from the floor, pick it up, find a spot big enough to set it down on its side, clean the wax from old ring off the flange and toilet bottom, then swap in a new one without dropping the toilet wrong on the new ring and ruining it. No window or fan. Don't know if I should install one or what. It's a tiny downtown Toronto bachelor apartment so I don't have anywhere to vent it. And yeah, I specifically asked for the wax ring to be replaced but there's no way the guy actually did it - I think he just caulked around the outside and called it a day.
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Jul 2, 2015 19:13
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If you can't get your landlord to install a vent fan for some reason, you can run a dehumidifier.
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Jul 2, 2015 21:44
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There's not even an outlet in the bathroom so, uh, yeah. e: Oh, this exists http://www.amazon.com/gp/aws/cart/a...ezazonnocart-20
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Jul 2, 2015 21:49
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I had an electric water heater sit idle for a couple years. I've reconnected it and now have a terrible sulfur smell from the hot side. If I run it a while the smell dies down, but comes back in a few days. Do I need to just drain and refill or treat the heater?
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Jul 2, 2015 23:34
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I had an electric water heater sit idle for a couple years. I've reconnected it and now have a terrible sulfur smell from the hot side. If I run it a while the smell dies down, but comes back in a few days. Do I need to just drain and refill or treat the heater? Sulfur smell comes from the water, not the heater. Let me guess, well water with no water softener?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:15
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kid sinister posted:Sulfur smell comes from the water, not the heater. Let me guess, well water with no water softener? Filters and water softener on city water. Other floors are fine. Only this water heater not cold supply.
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Jul 3, 2015 11:56
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You could try draining it. Since it's an electric, expect to need to unscrew the drain valve from the tank and occasionally fish around inside the hole to break up chunks of hard water that settled to the bottom. If you're on a softener though, that should help keep the buildup to a minimum. Edit: if you drain the tank but still have chunks of stuff to get out, you can open the valve above the tank a little bit to let some more water in. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 17:27
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I had an electric water heater sit idle for a couple years. I've reconnected it and now have a terrible sulfur smell from the hot side. If I run it a while the smell dies down, but comes back in a few days. Do I need to just drain and refill or treat the heater? It could need a new Anorod, they are usually easy to replace. Normally located on the top of the water heater under a plastic cover (about 1.25" In diameter) or other times they are on the outlet of the water heater nipple.
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Jul 4, 2015 02:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could need a new Anorod, they are usually easy to replace. Normally located on the top of the water heater under a plastic cover (about 1.25" In diameter) or other times they are on the outlet of the water heater nipple. Also call the manufacturer and make sure you get the correct annode rod for the type of water softener you have. I know for bradford white you need a different alloy if you have a salt based water softener.
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Jul 4, 2015 20:03
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could need a new Anorod, they are usually easy to replace. Normally located on the top of the water heater under a plastic cover (about 1.25" In diameter) or other times they are on the outlet of the water heater nipple. So yummy. Drain and flush. And drain and flush. And drain and flush. 
EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 18:51
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When you are putting threaded black pipe together with fittings, is it normal to only use about half the threads? I kinda figured it would screw all the way down but that seems impossible. Also, is black pipe always filthy, or is it just shipped filthy and can be cleaned up? (We're not using it for plumbing purposes, but figured the plumbing thread would know the answers.)
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Jul 6, 2015 13:53
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:So yummy. Drain and flush. And drain and flush. And drain and flush. You know, a garden hose fits on the end of that valve. Just run the other end outside. smackfu posted:When you are putting threaded black pipe together with fittings, is it normal to only use about half the threads? I kinda figured it would screw all the way down but that seems impossible. Also, is black pipe always filthy, or is it just shipped filthy and can be cleaned up? Yes, that's normal to only go on about halfway, especially when only hand tightened. Yeah, black pipe is usually dirty. They tend to go overboard with the coating.
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Jul 6, 2015 16:04
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kid sinister posted:You know, a garden hose fits on the end of that valve. Just run the other end outside. That paint liner had a big hole in it to drain down the floor drain 3 inches away from the spout.
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Jul 6, 2015 18:18
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:That paint liner had a big hole in it to drain down the floor drain 3 inches away from the spout. That makes a lot more sense. I was wondering why you were bailing with such a small bucket.
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Jul 6, 2015 21:43
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smackfu posted:When you are putting threaded black pipe together with fittings, is it normal to only use about half the threads? I kinda figured it would screw all the way down but that seems impossible. Also, is black pipe always filthy, or is it just shipped filthy and can be cleaned up? You can bury the fitting ( with wrenchs so no threads are really showing). So what are you using it for? And if you want a cleaner alternative use galvanized. It's the same pipe just coated.
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Jul 7, 2015 00:21
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It's for a frame for an arch at a wedding. I'm leaning toward the galvanized after seeing how dirty we got just playing with the black at the hardware store.
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Jul 7, 2015 01:42
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smackfu posted:It's for a frame for an arch at a wedding. I'm leaning toward the galvanized after seeing how dirty we got just playing with the black at the hardware store. Copper would be pretty clean and not as heavy(but expensive) or do CPVC and paint it.
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Jul 7, 2015 07:45
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Copper would be pretty clean and not as heavy(but expensive) or do CPVC and paint it. Copper would be cool and could be a gift to the couple for their garden.
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Jul 7, 2015 15:59
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Copper would be cool and could be a gift to the couple for their garden. If they can solder it cleanly. If not they will have a ton of runs. And it's kinda hard to square up if you are new to it.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:59
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^^^^^ he means for plants to grow on and stuff. I've actually heard of people doing that with old brass headboards and such. Anyway, if it's going in their garden, you'd have to worry about people swiping and recycling it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jul 8, 2015 |
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Jul 8, 2015 02:28
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Sorry, should have given more details but it was getting a bit off topic for plumbing. It's going to be the frame for an arch made of books (with holes drilled through each book.) So how the frame looks is pretty irrelevant, since it will be hidden. It has to be fairly sturdy, but also we need to be able to break it down into pieces because the frame + books will be 8' tall and weigh a few hundred pounds. So black or galvanized pipe seemed like a good choice, since we can connect it fairly easily and we can unscrew it for transport. Other people have done the same kind of thing with welded tube frames, but then you need to rent a truck to move it, and a metal shop to fab it.
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Jul 8, 2015 02:38
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In that case, if you're using piping temporarily outdoors, then I would recommend galvanized pipe for both ease of assembly and cleanliness. You will need to pay attention and keep the number of 'circles' to a minimum. That will make it easier to assemble and cut down on the number of unions you will need.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jul 8, 2015 |
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Jul 8, 2015 02:43
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Without going into details (see my post history in this thread if you want 'em) I'm still fighting with a pressure reducing valve issue in my house. The short version is: my PRV went out, replaced it with another, suddenly had insane water hammer just running the water, as if the PRV was fluttering. Had to nearly close off the main valve just before the meter to get it to stop. Six months later, THAT PRV shits out on me as well, and so once again, I've replaced it. The theory at the time was that the hammer/ringing was due to a faulty valve or something being caught in it, but the new one does the EXACT SAME THING, from the moment I turned the water back on. Granted, because there's apparently limited availability of these things in my area, I ended up having to replace the (second) valve with the same make and model. So can anyone confirm whether or not the Lowe's/Ace/etc. brand CASH ACME is just complete and utter poo poo and replacing this with a different brand might actually help? (I mean "CASH ACME," really?) When we moved into the place, the...Winston, I think? That was in there had no trouble like this, at least up until it crapped out on us. Of course, that one was all brass, including the spring housing, whereas the CASH ACME is a brass body but plastic housing, I don't know if that really matters or not. I'm just so loving done with this, I want a PRV that's going to work and not crap out in six months and not produce insane water hammer just from water flowing through it, not even shutting on/off. And right now, while I've fixed the hammer issue by closing down the supply line, it still sometimes "sings", which I have to assume is some high-frequency ringing caused by the same thing as the hammer. Fuckin' CASH ACME.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:33
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Bad Munki posted:Without going into details (see my post history in this thread if you want 'em) I'm still fighting with a pressure reducing valve issue in my house. The short version is: my PRV went out, replaced it with another, suddenly had insane water hammer just running the water, as if the PRV was fluttering. Had to nearly close off the main valve just before the meter to get it to stop. Six months later, THAT PRV shits out on me as well, and so once again, I've replaced it. The theory at the time was that the hammer/ringing was due to a faulty valve or something being caught in it, but the new one does the EXACT SAME THING, from the moment I turned the water back on. Granted, because there's apparently limited availability of these things in my area, I ended up having to replace the (second) valve with the same make and model. Install a water hammer arrester if you have really bad water hammer. Or a Tee pointing up with a cap at the top so it traps air to work as a buffer for water hammer will work. I haven't used that brand of prv but I think you should solve the next problem. You should adjust your PRV between 50-75psi (roughly). You will need to put an expansion tank on the water heater after this too. Since you are making your house a close loop system and leaving less room for the hot water to expand.
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Jul 11, 2015 02:58
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