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Moola posted:Does anyone have any tips for making your own DIY texture paints? Like the mud stuff GW sells? I tried that before and it works well. Use lots of PVA glue otherwise it can be pretty fragile. Also it will kill whatever brush you use it on.
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Jul 8, 2015 22:22
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Actually do I even need to add the paint? I'm just gonna be priming on top of it anyway...
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Jul 9, 2015 00:41
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Just buy a big rear end jar of Black Lava from an art store and be set for years.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:28
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I did a bit of Warhammer Fantasy stuff a decade ago, and the recent Age of Sigmar talk has made me want to dust them off and give them a go with the Kings of War rules. Thing is, I mean 'dust them off' literally. These things have just been sitting on shelves for the better part of a decade at this point. Some of them are just primed, even, and never got fully painted before I stopped messing around with miniatures back then. What's the best way to dust off things like these? A blast of compressed air? The gentle caress of a feather duster? Water?
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Jul 9, 2015 05:33
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Ofaloaf posted:I did a bit of Warhammer Fantasy stuff a decade ago, and the recent Age of Sigmar talk has made me want to dust them off and give them a go with the Kings of War rules. A wet Q-tip will work wonders, I've found.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:41
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Post 9-11 User posted:It's like a Super Target, it's got all the stuff a Wal-Mart would have but most of the stuff is higher quality and they don't horrifically abuse their employees. Go hog wild. Krylon is what hosed up one of my Vyper models years ago, but that was just some random flaw in the plastic composition or that particular batch of spraypaint (or both). Whatever the reason, the model got a pitted texture, I ended up spraying over a dozen layers on it, sanded it and made it into a Nuadhu Fireheart ride. I'm a fan of rustoleum double cover for a primer.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:51
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Okay, almost done. I just need to finish up the basing at this point.       The base started with a nice build up of greenstuff to give it a lip, with impressions made for Demogorgon's feet and tentacle so he'd be easy to glue in later. I also pressed a zombie torso into the greenstuff. It's not showing so well, but one of his arms is partly covered by the greenstuff and mud, with the hand sticking out to the right of the body in the first close-up of the base. I made a few minor modifications to another zombie (I bought a three-pack of the George model Bones zombie for the purpose) and in preparation to add him as a floating corpse. Next, I glued some fine sand down, let it dry, then hit it with another layer of glue, finally painting it Volcano Brown. With that done, I gave it a hefty wash of agrax earthshade, and when that dried, gave it a couple of drybrushes, one of IMEF Olive, and the other of a mix of the olive with a sand-colored sample paint. I did a quick spot placements of static grass, and then added a couple of tall grass bunches. I painted up the corpses at this point, using Army Painter necrotic flesh as a base, with reikland fleshshade to get that "bloated corpse" look, with some highlights of vampiric skin mellowed down with a glaze of athonian camoshade. I tossed and/or glued some bits down from the bunch o' basing stuff I have, including snailshells, pebbles and plant detritus, and then it was ready for the final touch. Realistic Water effects were mixed with some green and brown ink and poured in. It'll take a day for it to dry and set, and probably several tries before it looks decent, but the main work of the project is finished.
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Jul 9, 2015 06:11
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Moola posted:Actually do I even need to add the paint? If you can find yourself a jar of Golden Coarse Pumice Gel in a craft store, it makes for an amazing basing material. You can thin it with water as much as you want, so you can make clumpy uneven ground or smooth, flat textured base. A jar is a little expensive (12-15 bux), but one jar alone will base MANY armies. I did a full lizardman army and most of a massive skaven horde and still have some left.  Can even stick rocks and bits in it and prime/paint over it with no problem. I love the stuff.   
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Jul 9, 2015 06:35
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Ofaloaf posted:I did a bit of Warhammer Fantasy stuff a decade ago, and the recent Age of Sigmar talk has made me want to dust them off and give them a go with the Kings of War rules. I used to airbush mine with a bit of water at high psi.
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Jul 9, 2015 08:02
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JackMann posted:Okay, almost done. I just need to finish up the basing at this point. its really awesome seeing this develop, btw. namaste
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Jul 9, 2015 08:11
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Moola posted:Actually do I even need to add the paint? Are you doing bases or terrain? If terrain I'd say add paint to the mix, makes life easier. For bases it doesn't matter so much. Edit - ^^^ or do what the other guy said and use pumice paste. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 08:45
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Relative to the current topic of basing, I just ordered a bunch of Army Painter basing stuff. Moss Green flock grass, Brown Battleground...erm, ground, some tufts and meadow flowers, etc. The thing that appealed to me was that you don't necessarily need to use paint with the AP stuff; as my time is limited these days, I just want to base some dudes (in this case, some German Heer and British Tommies for Bolt Action) and have done with it. Hopefully will have some first-hand experience with the various items to post about here soon.
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Jul 9, 2015 09:20
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Z the IVth posted:Are you doing bases or terrain? If terrain I'd say add paint to the mix, makes life easier. For bases it doesn't matter so much. I don't want to buy anything, so im gonna try pva and sand
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Jul 9, 2015 09:23
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For bases, watered-down white glue with sand on top is the way to go. I usually throw it on after the model's been painted, then slather it in wash and dry brush it. I've never had a lot of it come off, but for terrain it's too fragile. Terrain I usually cover the piece in spackle, that I usually use for fixing holes in the wall, dump sand on it, and then mash the sand into it a little bit. Still comes off a bit, but it works OK. In either case you get a half-assed result for quarter-assed effort, which is the Warhams sweet spot as far as I'm concerned.
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Jul 9, 2015 13:06
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mentos posted:Banged out this Vostroyan Rocket launcher guy in about a day, after realizing my original battalion box didn't come with a mortar and I had to buy the Cadian HW frame. Good thing, because since I have used a bunch of Lascannon gunners as pilots for my Chimeras and sentinels I ended up with a bunch of these binocular guys lying around. That looks great! You do more work on bases than I would bother with and I  the skull on the warhead. I cannot tell what the base model is, how much of the dude is conversion work?SkaAndScreenplays posted:I'm a fan of rustoleum double cover for a primer. Looks like I need to check out that as well as Super Clean. The Rustoleum matte white I got is working fine so far but it took hours to stop being tacky. It says to apply more coats several minutes later, that would be a terrible idea. The instructions do say, "... to handle in 5-9 hours and fully dry in 24 hours," so the instructions are well done I just didn't bother to read those.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:50
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Post 9-11 User posted:That looks great! You do more work on bases than I would bother with and I Thanks! The model is one of the lascannon crew:  I split the binoculars in half and removed the right half, sculpted a viewfinder thingy connected to the Cadian rocket launcher and added some leftover piping from a Taurox. Filed down and removed the lascannon battery pack and re-sculpted the robes and right hand. All in all the parts fit pretty nicely together so it was an easy conversion. I used the 40K basing resins and slate for the base.
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Jul 9, 2015 15:57
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Progress report! I've since primed the fucker, but..     I frankly love the Sicaran - it's a big, intimidating chunk of resin that's actually surprisingly easy to put together.
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Jul 9, 2015 16:45
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Vallejo Liquid Gold: airbrushable or not? If so, anything I have to know over the basics for acrylics? ...and no, I'm not painting AoS  VVV: Thanks Pierzak fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 18:38
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Pierzak posted:Vallejo Liquid Gold: airbrushable or not? Yes. It's really nice through an airbrush. You'll have to clean the bejesus out of it afterwads though so you don't get rust.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:45
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Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:48
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NotQuiteQuentin posted:Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups. Rest your wrist on something, take a breath exhale half and hold. Don't drink coffee or soda, drink beer instead 
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Jul 9, 2015 18:50
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NotQuiteQuentin posted:Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups. illegal drugs. just dont go stupid
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Jul 9, 2015 18:57
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NotQuiteQuentin posted:Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups.
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Jul 9, 2015 19:03
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e: ^ This is the best method. Lightly press the balls of your thumbs together while painting; if one hand shakes, they'll both shake together relative to each other.MasterSlowPoke posted:Just buy a big rear end jar of Black Lava from an art store and be set for years. Fun fact about Vallejo Black Lava: spread it flat and compress it with a roller for instant asphalt! I did that on Shelly the Racecar Driver's base last year (2nd from the right below) and it turned out great. Just let the stuff dry and drybrush with medium grey tones to get that sun-baked pavement feel.  JackMann, that is amazing work! (secretly hoping you do Orcus next) Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 19:07
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w00tmonger posted:illegal drugs. just dont go stupid Some of us have a prescription for that magical painting-tobacco.
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Jul 9, 2015 20:12
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I'm gonna cross-post this here because I think this is also the modeling/sculpting/whatever thread? I dunno.Bad Munki posted:A little while back, either in this thread or the mini painting thread, someone posted a little video demoing some mdf blocks with magnets in them, for the purpose of modular terrain I think. Well, I decided to rip that idea off unabashedly, and so here's what I've got. Sorry for the handheld footage.
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Jul 9, 2015 20:52
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Yes. It's really nice through an airbrush. You'll have to clean the bejesus out of it afterwads though so you don't get rust. I would have a dedicated airbrush for spraying it. A single drop of water will ruin it. Just get one of the cheap chinese ones.
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Jul 9, 2015 22:03
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A kind goon was nice enough to send me some Cyriss Warmachine miniatures. They haven't arrived yet, but I've been brainstorming ways to paint them. I'm thinking partially oxidized copper with brass joints. How does the following process sound? White primer Black Lava texture on oxidized surfaces Copper, Brass, and Blue-Green base coat (Liquitex acrylics mixed with matte medium) Black ink wash (50% flow enhancer / 50% matte medium / few drops of ink) Dry brush and highlights, particularly edges of metal and the textured oxidized surfaces. I'm honestly a little overwhelmed by the standard blue glow they tend to have, and was thinking oxidization might be a good way to get some nice color in there without an airbrush. I've not used black lava before, can it be stripped like other paint? I'm going to practice on some old chaos warriors, but wanted to make sure I'm on the right track first. I've only previously used citadel paints, but they've all dried up and liquitex is what I have on hand. Anyone have any experience with them? Other thought was just doing a blue-green wash, but that seems too easy. KPC_Mammon fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 01:20
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Yes. It's really nice through an airbrush. You'll have to clean the bejesus out of it afterwads though so you don't get rust. How's it rust from 90% alcohol?
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Jul 10, 2015 01:27
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KPC_Mammon posted:I'm thinking partially oxidized copper with brass joints. Verdigris glaze, job's done. gently caress spending more time for the same effect Don't use Black Lava on the models, it'll have a "holy poo poo it's rusting so badly it's bubbling and literally falling apart as I watch" and besides this effect is more appropriate for steel, not copper. And blue glow is the easiest loving thing: - OldGW Ice Blue, Reaper LED blue or equivalent + some glaze medium, dab some ~2 mm around the light, plus on protruding elements around where the light would reflect the strongest - add a bit of white to the mix, dab ~1 mm around the light - add more light (at this stage it should be white that's slightly tinted blue), paint the light itself - done.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:59
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Pierzak posted:And blue glow is the easiest loving thing: That doesn't sound too bad. I'll pick up some glazing medium and give it a try.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:11
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BULBASAUR posted:How's it rust from 90% alcohol? Not the airbrush, the paint. After you thought you got it all, but whoops missed a spot.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:24
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KPC_Mammon posted:That doesn't sound too bad. I'll pick up some glazing medium and give it a try. Vallejo Glaze Medium is amazing, I drink it every day.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:32
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So, I'm a serious painting nub, just getting into the hobby and all, how important is medium to thin paints? I'd prefer to use water (because it's cheaper and I won't notice a difference at my skill level) but how much of a difference does actual paint thinner do?
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Jul 10, 2015 03:10
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I've been using high grade art acrylics, which are too drat thick without a medium. Honestly, the whole thing is such a pain in the rear end that I'm thinking of switching over to some non-citadel miniature paint. I guess I should check the OP.
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Jul 10, 2015 03:58
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Paranoid Dude posted:So, I'm a serious painting nub, just getting into the hobby and all, how important is medium to thin paints? I'd prefer to use water (because it's cheaper and I won't notice a difference at my skill level) but how much of a difference does actual paint thinner do? I thin with water. It's fine. Preferable even. I hate glaze medium. Matte medium and me, well that's a complicated relationship. Airbrush medium is cool though.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:23
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I like flow aid and matte medium. I'll sometimes put a drop of flow aid into paint on my palette if I know I'm going to be blending it and I want to avoid pooling. Matte medium comes in handy for when I want to make a color a little bit less 'intense'. Even if I use these, I'll add some water in there too.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:39
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Paranoid Dude posted:So, I'm a serious painting nub, just getting into the hobby and all, how important is medium to thin paints? I'd prefer to use water (because it's cheaper and I won't notice a difference at my skill level) but how much of a difference does actual paint thinner do? I've always thinned with water, and any problem I've ever had with painting is due to skill, not because the paint was messed up.
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Jul 10, 2015 18:32
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:I'm a fan of rustoleum double cover for a primer. I've been a krylon guy for a while, however I picked up some of this stuff at the Home Depot and it's been amazing.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:49
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tried color blending for the first time the other day and just want to make sure Ive set myself up for success. Blending using a wet pallette, watering paint down further on it and basically shading darker as I move down the surface. should I be doing anything diferently (paints/mediums/technique?) or am I on the right track.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:55
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