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Possibly TPS out of adjustment? Applying throttle while starting an efi bike usually has a worse effect. It's probably just a loose connection somewhere or faulty battery, but get a multimeter for sure.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:49
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Yesssss reset the TPS.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:00
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Is this how I reset the TPS?quote:You can try resetting the TPS. I'll get the multimeter and stuff anyway, but if that's all I need to do then that's super simple.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:20
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I'm planning to do another deals gap trip, this time on the bike the whole way. What's the best way to tie down my camping stuff on the back seat? I'd like to avoid buying dedicated luggage/racks ($$$$$$$). Would a bungee net or two suffice?
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Jul 9, 2015 14:16
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I wouldn't use bungee nets or cords for that. http://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY
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Jul 9, 2015 14:29
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Ratchet Strap everything. Even comes in Camo so you'll fit in with the locals. http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-16-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Ratchet-Tie-Downs-4-Pack-480606-12/202340309
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Jul 9, 2015 16:45
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M42 posted:I'm planning to do another deals gap trip, this time on the bike the whole way. What's the best way to tie down my camping stuff on the back seat? I'd like to avoid buying dedicated luggage/racks ($$$$$$$). Would a bungee net or two suffice? You can fit a lot under a bungee net. 
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Jul 9, 2015 17:53
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clutchpuck posted:You can fit a lot under a bungee net. Indeed, it looks like you managed to fit a whole bike under one!
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Jul 9, 2015 18:40
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clutchpuck posted:You can fit a lot under a bungee net. This looks like you could use some new compression sacks, so much wasted space if those squish down that much under a bungee, you could probably halve the size of that pile.
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Jul 9, 2015 19:23
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M42 posted:I'm planning to do another deals gap trip, this time on the bike the whole way. What's the best way to tie down my camping stuff on the back seat? I'd like to avoid buying dedicated luggage/racks ($$$$$$$). Would a bungee net or two suffice?
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Jul 9, 2015 19:24
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Half of that (clothing layers, rain gear) should be in a top box. That's more of an ad-hoc, "I keep having to get these out of the box so I'll just net them down," but you're right. Nets are versatile and cheap though. Don't need to get much more fancy, but you could.Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Bungee nets are fantastic, I love them. But there's no substitute for serious luggage. All my bikes have bigass hard bags of some kind. I can't seem to get away from both in tandem. But I haven't had a top box until this year.
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Jul 9, 2015 19:39
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M42 posted:I'm planning to do another deals gap trip, this time on the bike the whole way. What's the best way to tie down my camping stuff on the back seat? I'd like to avoid buying dedicated luggage/racks ($$$$$$$). Would a bungee net or two suffice? I guess it depends on how little money you're talking about here, but you could do something like the mosko moto scout for all your clothes/loose items/whatever you don't want wet and then strap it onto the back with your tent on the outside with rok straps. It's a bit more than a bungie net obviously but I wouldn't want to go on a long trip without some kind of water proof bag, and 30L will fit quite a bit of stuff. If you just want to lash things down get a bungie net and some rok straps, rok straps are amazing.
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Jul 9, 2015 22:57
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I changed my chain two days ago and noticed that my front sprocket looked a little worn. I didn't want to ruin my new chain fast so I replaced it. The rear sprocket got even teeth still.  My question is, did I need to replace the front sprocket? How worn is a 'worn' sprocket when tossing a new chain on? ( it had multiple stiff links + clip masterlink). That sprocket is after 15k km ~ 9300 miles.
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Jul 10, 2015 08:27
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Supradog posted:I changed my chain two days ago and noticed that my front sprocket looked a little worn. Probably not worn enough to say "REPLACE ME NOW" but at the same time it probably would have got to that state over the lifetime of the new chain, so replacing it while you were doing the chain wasn't a bad idea. It's a little surprising the rear isn't more worn though, hosed chains will normally impact the rear more than the front sprocket unless the chain spends a long time over-tight.
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Jul 10, 2015 08:32
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If you don't want to spring for hard luggage, compression bags + bungee net + lots of luggage straps gets you most of the way there.
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Jul 10, 2015 09:59
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Trauma Tank posted:Just messed around with the SMC again, it definitely doesn't like starting up cold on just the starter. I applied a bit of throttle before pressing the button and it seemed to start up fine. I hadn't tried this before as applying throttle while already holding the starter has just made it respond worse in the past, which is different to how the SV I'm used to responded. Does it happen when you've not long turned off the bike (say an hour or two), but not when the bike has been sitting for a longer period, say 24 hrs? If so, you may have a leaking injector like I did ('08 690 SMC).
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Jul 10, 2015 11:20
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soo my honda has this habit of stalling at stop lights, then taking forever to get started again. The idle just droops lower and lower and then it dies. goosing the throttle makes it die faster. it's really loving annoying does anyone have an idea what might be up?
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Jul 10, 2015 16:07
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What bike?
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Jul 10, 2015 16:14
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Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Opening the throttle causes the throttle plate to open which means more air, but since your fuel pressure/volume is dropping, it kills the engine.
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Jul 10, 2015 16:17
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1989 CB-1. it's a four cylinder. It usually happens soon after I get on the road.revmoo posted:Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Opening the throttle causes the throttle plate to open which means more air, but since your fuel pressure/volume is dropping, it kills the engine. This makes sense but I have no idea what to do with this information. Do I need a new fuel pump? Edit: I should add that off the line the bike hesitates for a bit, at like 25% throttle. Like it dips down for a few seconds then 'wakes up' and goes A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 16:17
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revmoo posted:Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Opening the throttle causes the throttle plate to open which means more air, but since your fuel pressure/volume is dropping, it kills the engine. Yep, this. Check the fuel level, filter, lines. Carb cleaner might help too, in case the jets can't spit enough fuel in.
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Jul 10, 2015 16:21
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A MIRACLE posted:Edit: I should add that off the line the bike hesitates for a bit, at like 25% throttle. Like it dips down for a few seconds then 'wakes up' and goes You can try using some seafoam and see if it helps, otherwise you'll have to take apart the carb and clean the jets. Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 16:44
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ReelBigLizard posted:Does it happen when you've not long turned off the bike (say an hour or two), but not when the bike has been sitting for a longer period, say 24 hrs? The bike starts up fine after being ridden, so far this is a problem entirely limited to starting it before the first time it's ridden for the day. So, confusing developments. I couldn't get it started at all this morning, and was trying until the battery sounded almost flat, like half a second between turnovers. Then when I came home just now and tried to start it it started first time. I then tried to start it again after a minute or so running and it was back to the old thing of sounding like the battery was flat. On the whole, very confusing. I've put it on the trickle charger and will try and start it in the morning and see if that makes the difference. Am I right in thinking that if it starts in the morning then this is some weird thing with the battery not retaining charge overnight and not wanting to start when it's cold? The fact that it started this afternoon despite me almost running it flat trying to start it this morning is definitely muddling this, but I know bad batteries cause stuff to behave in all kinds of weird ways. EDIT: I just remembered, while I was trying to start it up this morning I remember putting it in first and trying to start it and even with the clutch pulled all the way in it was still lurching slightly with each chug. Is that normal? 
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Jul 10, 2015 16:50
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A MIRACLE posted:1989 CB-1. it's a four cylinder. It usually happens soon after I get on the road. Not if it improves as the engine warms. Also isn't that a carbed bike?
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Jul 10, 2015 17:14
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Trauma Tank posted:EDIT: I just remembered, while I was trying to start it up this morning I remember putting it in first and trying to start it and even with the clutch pulled all the way in it was still lurching slightly with each chug. Is that normal? Yes, absolutely. There's stiction between the clutch plates, particularly when the engine is cold (it's why the bike lurches when you put it in first when it's running). Wait... you're not having this issue while trying to start the bike in gear, are you?
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Jul 10, 2015 17:17
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yes, absolutely. There's stiction between the clutch plates, particularly when the engine is cold (it's why the bike lurches when you put it in first when it's running). No, it's been in neutral every other time. Putting it in first was just something I tried this morning when I was exasperated by it not starting.
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Jul 10, 2015 17:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Not if it improves as the engine warms. Also isn't that a carbed bike? Yes it's carbed. No I have no idea what I'm doing. I just went and futzed with it and it dies as soon as the engine warms up. Really hard to get it started again after that. gently caress. I think I'm stuck at work wtffff A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 17:45
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A MIRACLE posted:Yes it's carbed. No I have no idea what I'm doing. I just went and futzed with it and it dies as soon as the engine warms up. Really hard to get it started again after that. gently caress. I think I'm stuck at work wtffff Carbs are voodoo wizardry to me, there may as well be bad juju in your float bowl for all I know. (My point was that (most) carbed bikes don't have a fuel pump, they're fed by gravity from the tank, so that was pretty unlikely to be the problem)
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Jul 10, 2015 18:29
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A lot of pet stores will sell you leeches; that's how I fixed my carbs, but it probably varies by manufacturer and year. You can try burning a little sage to the east of your bike, or burying the needle jets on a full moon.
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Jul 10, 2015 18:32
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Did some googling, is it possible I have a clogged "gas tank breather"? If so what is that, like, where is that on the bike and what does it look like. I have some canned air lol
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Jul 10, 2015 18:40
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If that's the gas tank vent, no, symptoms don't fit. Being cold or warm wouldn't affect it, it would start and idle fine, and run fine until you hit sustained high speeds/revs, like on a highway. It gets starved of fuel due to no air entering the tank, think holding your finger over the top of a straw and the liquid stays in the straw. It would start stumbling and eventually quit, and be difficult to restart until the system equalizes itself, opening the gas tank will do it, leaving it open will get you home if you can't keep the revs low enough. Mine got me home as long as I kept it under 5k. You can rule it out as an issue by opening the gas tank cap and leaving it open next time it won't start or run. Tanbo fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 18:43
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captainOrbital posted:A lot of pet stores will sell you leeches; that's how I fixed my carbs, but it probably varies by manufacturer and year. You can try burning a little sage to the east of your bike, or burying the needle jets on a full moon. 
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Jul 10, 2015 18:48
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well the bike doesn't start so great. Takes a LOT of starter button. I'm worried about draining the battery actually. It doesn't seem to care what position my choke is on, until it does, and then it has to be in the middle. gently caress I shoulda just bought a ninja 300
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Jul 10, 2015 18:53
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On your CB-1, sounds like clogged carbs. Seafoam, fresh gas, and lots of high throttle usage to get the gas flowing and hopefully it'll clean up. Carbs aren't that bad as long as someone hasn't hosed with them excessively, after all, they worked when the bike was OEM without any issues. Trauma Tank posted:The bike starts up fine after being ridden, so far this is a problem entirely limited to starting it before the first time it's ridden for the day. You really need to buy a multimeter and check cranking voltage. Had a battery that read fine but dropped to 4v when cranking, due to some sort of internal short. Caused all kinds of headache.
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Jul 10, 2015 18:56
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A MIRACLE posted:well the bike doesn't start so great. Takes a LOT of starter button. I'm worried about draining the battery actually. It doesn't seem to care what position my choke is on, until it does, and then it has to be in the middle. gently caress I shoulda just bought a ninja 300 Don't run the starter for more than 5 seconds at a time, and leave at least 5 seconds in between cranks or you'll burn it up.
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Jul 10, 2015 18:58
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Oh I don't, i use short bursts. it just takes a lot of them
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Jul 10, 2015 19:02
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All right cool, just making sure. Can't really help with the voodoo that is carbs though. I'd try the sage.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:03
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Z3n posted:You really need to buy a multimeter and check cranking voltage. Had a battery that read fine but dropped to 4v when cranking, due to some sort of internal short. Caused all kinds of headache. I'm pretty sure they tried to deliver it today while I was at work. I'll be picking it up from the post office tomorrow so I can actually look into this stuff. From your post I guess I'm meant to be looking at the voltage coming off the battery when I'm actually holding the starter button?
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Jul 10, 2015 19:09
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Yeah starting problems are fairly straightforward to troubleshoot so long as you have the right tools. An engine needs 3 things to start: Fuel, air and spark. One of those three isn't present or isn't consistently present.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:25
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So I went to add some air to my tyres in advance of taking a longish trip, and the gauge on the pump read zero when I put the nozzle on, though they didn't appear to be flat  I had these tyres put on about, I think 300 miles ago? And didn't think to check the pressure when I got home, assuming the shop would have set them correctly. It feels like it retains energy when coasting loads better now, but that may just be placebo; as I said they didn't look flat. Given that it's a really light bike on brand new tyres, would they be stiff enough to retain their shape with no air in? Just how much of a dumbass have I been here, is what I guess I'm asking.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:46
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