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I've found that the type of people photographers usually are are the ones who geniunely try to take care of their equipment, especially when trying to sell it. All the second hand equipment I've got has been totally fine, and a lot cheaper than new. Also I've found that some shops that sell second hand gear - in the UK at least - offer a 6 month warranty which is a nice buffer if you find out that something is broken. Saying that I've still never had to use those warranties due to the quality of the gear.
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Jul 9, 2015 13:55
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Same here, only have been sent one item I thought was sub-par and that was this week from a guy on Amazon. I just sent it back, no problems there. I detail anything I sell, I cant offer a warranty but I also wouldn't sell something I thought/knew was on the verge of crapping out without actually listing that.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:19
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I guess as well I'm having trouble seeing how the 1200d can be so bad that I'm better off buying a 40d, which is several generations old if I understand it right (50, 60, 70). Surely a 40d would have been used enough that the shutter would be prone to failure?
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Jul 9, 2015 14:24
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NaDy posted:I've found that the type of people photographers usually are are the ones who geniunely try to take care of their equipment, especially when trying to sell it. All the second hand equipment I've got has been totally fine, and a lot cheaper than new. A few years ago I bought a 24-70 for about ~$850. It was in great shape. After 6 months I didn't like the lens and rarely used it and decided to sell it for $950. A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I guess as well I'm having trouble seeing how the 1200d can be so bad that I'm better off buying a 40d, which is several generations old if I understand it right (50, 60, 70). Surely a 40d would have been used enough that the shutter would be prone to failure? If you're taking photos at high noon of still objects, the 1200d/T5 will be fine - I don't know what sensor it has so it may be okay to shoot through late afternoon as well. If you're planning on shooting a lot you're going to notice the limitations of this camera very quickly and in a week you'll already be saving to buy a better body instead of looking at a decent lens. The 40D has a bigger and better body & build, it's definitely more ergonomic if you have larger than average hands. There are programs that can give you an actuation count. Shutters are rated for 100k and you can knock the gently caress out of someone with the body without damaging it. geeves fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 14:25
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Any tips on buying a used lens off Craigslist? I'm not sure how I would be able to test it and really know if there was anything wrong
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Jul 9, 2015 14:27
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I guess as well I'm having trouble seeing how the 1200d can be so bad that I'm better off buying a 40d, which is several generations old if I understand it right (50, 60, 70). Surely a 40d would have been used enough that the shutter would be prone to failure? The problem with those cameras is that Canon takes out basic features like spot metering and mirror lockup, that you may want to use as you grow and learn, and you just won't be able to. They're perfectly good for the audience canon intends them for (set to running guy or persons face mode and shoot away) , but if you're professing a desire to learn to use the camera, you probably want more than a 70's era feature set.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:31
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I guess as well I'm having trouble seeing how the 1200d can be so bad that I'm better off buying a 40d, which is several generations old if I understand it right (50, 60, 70). Surely a 40d would have been used enough that the shutter would be prone to failure? Also assuming that every 40D is going to be heavily used is off, there are still many that someone let sit and gather dust and they just remembered "hey I wanted to sell that"...
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Jul 9, 2015 14:37
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triplexpac posted:Any tips on buying a used lens off Craigslist? I'm not sure how I would be able to test it and really know if there was anything wrong Meet at a Starbucks or something during the day. Inspect it, then take a handful of shots at different apertures and load them on to your laptop or just use the LCD to look for anything glaringly bad. Make sure the AF is working. Try different focusing points. A good seller shouldn't mind spending an extra 10 minutes for you to pixel peep as you make sure you're buying something solid. On the other hand I sold a lens to someone in a Sunoco parking lot at 11pm because they were in a hurry.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:45
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triplexpac posted:Any tips on buying a used lens off Craigslist? I'm not sure how I would be able to test it and really know if there was anything wrong if you're in the U.S. just buy off KEH instead. The thing is: the Rebel cameras are not, by themselves, bad. They will take good pictures. However, there are two things to remember: Like mentioned before, camera bodies in most every level get refreshed so often, it doesn't make much sense to buy new unless you REALLY want to buy new. Considering how expensive it is versus how many used bodies are available, it would probably be best to jump into this really expensive hobby by saving some money where it's not needed. That money saved is better spent on a better lens to start. The other thing? As also mentioned, the Rebel and entry-level bodies have a ceiling for how much you can use. Sure, the 40D is much older, and may not have as high of resolution (the real problem would be ISO anyways), but it probably has a higher frame rate for burst photography and sure as hell has better materials and better controls. The x0D and 7D/5D bodies have additional controls (wheels on the back, extra screen on the top, extra buttons to access settings directly) as well, and once you start learning, those become much more useful. To change aperture on my old Rebel, you had to hold a button down and then use the shutter speed control to adjust it; with x0D and up that's the separate wheel on there. It sounds small, but that's a HUGE thing for usability when you're adjusting everything manually. As well, the bodies are just bigger and more comfortable. So tl;dr save money, raise your ceiling, and save for lenses. Get the Tamron 17-50 2.8 and one of the pancakes.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:48
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geeves posted:Meet at a Starbucks or something during the day. Inspect it, then take a handful of shots at different apertures and load them on to your laptop or just use the LCD to look for anything glaringly bad. Make sure the AF is working. Try different focusing points. A good seller shouldn't mind spending an extra 10 minutes for you to pixel peep as you make sure you're buying something solid. A seller in a hurry is a warning sign (for me). As stated, they should have no problem spending a few more minutes for you to check things out. harperdc posted:if you're in the U.S. just buy off KEH instead. Man I really HATE the Rebel controls .. the wheel on the XXD are awesome. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 14:50
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Just get a used 60D. You learn how to use real dSLR controls and have the convenience of cheap SD cards.
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Jul 9, 2015 15:22
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Seamonster posted:Just get a used 60D. You learn how to use real dSLR controls and have the convenience of cheap SD cards. Buy mine. It's only slightly broken, but broken in a useful way! (Who cares about the mode dial lock, really?)
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Jul 9, 2015 16:22
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geeves posted:If you're taking photos at high noon of still objects, the 1200d/T5 will be fine - I don't know what sensor it has so it may be okay to shoot through late afternoon as well. If you're planning on shooting a lot you're going to notice the limitations of this camera very quickly and in a week you'll already be saving to buy a better body instead of looking at a decent lens. That being said, I still agree with the general sentiment here: harperdc posted:So tl;dr save money, raise your ceiling, and save for lenses. Get the Tamron 17-50 2.8 and one of the pancakes. Edit: Regardless of what you get, shoot in RAW and learn to post-process. zeroprime fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 16:32
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triplexpac posted:Any tips on buying a used lens off Craigslist? I'm not sure how I would be able to test it and really know if there was anything wrong First thing I would do is before you even meet up with the guy, is to ask for basic info that may be deal-breakers for you. Things like scratches, serial # if you're looking for a specific revision of a lens, etc. Typically my checklist is something like: - check the front and back element for any scratches - take out both the backcap and lens cap, look through the lens under a light and check for any signs of mould, or excessive dust (dust is unavoidable on some lenses, especially zoom lenses so I wouldn't dwell on this too much) - check the filter ring to see any bends or dings - check the lens body for any scratches or dings (really up to you to be nitpicky on this based on the selling price) - turn the focus and zoom rings to check for tightness, difficulty in turning - check turning the aperture to see if there's no issues in opening and closing it In terms of performance: - test focus at close and infinity to see if there's issues with the motor - test focus at wide open aperture and varying apertures. just zooming in on liveview works fine for quick checks - lens may front or back focus and need micro adjustments depending on your body, but if it focuses really bad then i'd steer clear - test IS if the lens has it in liveview mode - you can test for sharpness too, but that's a little hard by just looking at the camera LCD. just do your best by eye-balling it i guess Most of the time, photographers are really careful with their poo poo so I wouldn't worry too much. But try to check most of these things so you save yourself some buyer's remorse if you happen to find something wrong with the lens after buying it. Oh, and I typically do e-mail money transfers instead of carrying cash for these transactions. Never felt too comfortable with that much cash, public place or not. This is in Canada, so the US should have something similar?
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Jul 9, 2015 19:21
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The reason I'm so hesitant about buying a used body is that I know really nothing about what to look for etc. I'm into cars and I've grown up with a dad who taught me a bit about them and I've seen how shady used cars are. Is there like a list or a guide or something that I should do when buying a second hand camera? You guys say most people treat them well and I believe that seeing as its a niche hobby and not something like cars where a lot of people just don't give a poo poo, but knowing my luck I'll get the single camera in Australia that got dropped 100m into a river that somehow worked enough that me not knowing anything and taking a few pictures in a coffee shop wouldn't notice a problem until it was too late.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:07
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The reason I'm so hesitant about buying a used body is that I know really nothing about what to look for etc. I'm into cars and I've grown up with a dad who taught me a bit about them and I've seen how shady used cars are. DSLRs are built robust because their singular mechanism to how they work just turns it into a paperweight if broken. If it takes a picture and it looks like real life, it works. If anything you're better off buying a beat up camera, because cosmetic damage will bring down the price, and if the damage isn't surface level its basically unsellable. The person above you has gone through a way more comprehensive list of possible problems, but they're uncommon. People sell these things because they're upgrading or barely use it. Edit: I bought a 60D with a couple of lenses basically brand new for less than half of the retail price at the time because my friend bought an upgrade (5Dmk2), because, in turn, the person he bought the upgrade from was upgrading (C-100). Frogfingers fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 01:54
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zeroprime posted:Is the T5 really that bad? T5i (700D) is fine, T5 (1200D) is not.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:56
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Spending a fat wad of cash on the 6D/40 2.8 has severely limited my budget for a while, so I've been looking into cheap and nasty EF lenses to play around with until I can afford the stuff I really want (24/2.8 IS, 85 1.8, 70-200 f/4 IS). I found the Sigma 28-80 3.5/5.6 II for around 30 bucks shipped on eBay so I ordered it honestly expecting a total piece of poo poo, but it just arrived and while it's nothing spectacular it's surprisingly not a giant turd. The macro in particular is totally useful and I think it's the absolute cheapest way to get halfway decent macro on a full frame Canon. Crappy indoor shot, I haven't gotten a chance to take it outside and take pictures of bugs or flowers or something because I got home too late but I think this is gonna be something fun to mess with this weekend. The 28mm end is also shockingly decent and will totally hold me over until I can afford the 24. Are there any other super cheap EF lenses out there that actually do something useful, aside from the obvious nifty 50's?
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Jul 10, 2015 02:14
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You want cheap macro motherfucker? Put an extension tube or two behind that pancake and be amazed.
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Jul 10, 2015 04:16
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If you want an extension tube set paypal me shipping for priority flat rate small box (if you're in the US) and you can have mine since I went Fuji. Its a cheapie $15 set but it works well.
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Jul 10, 2015 04:54
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astr0man posted:T5i (700D) is fine, T5 (1200D) is not. Ah, ok. So it's the black sheep of the family.
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Jul 10, 2015 11:05
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The 1xxxD line is an uber-basic line Canon introduced fairly recently and as pointed out, it's missing some fairly fundamental features in order to keep the price down. You might regret this once you start trying out more advanced techniques. For example, for a long exposure through a strong ND filter you'll benefit from mirror lockup functionality which is missing for the 1xxxD but is present in every other product line. For what it's worth, I'm using a 500D (so an older 700D) which I got second hand from ebay. The only lens I have is the Tamron 17-50 non-VC lens goons always rave about - with good reason, it's awesome for the money - which I also got second hand off ebay. That lot ran me to about £300 total, and those two pieces of equipment have allowed me to experiment and be creative in ways which simply aren't possible with equivalently priced point and shoot cameras. Buying the equivalent new body and the same lens new would have been in the region of £800 and for what? A warranty? Who cares, if it breaks I can buy the entire setup again and still have spent less money than buying it new once. Saving that money has allowed me to invest in some other bits like a few filters, a remote shutter release, etc. You could even put it towards a licence for Adobe Lightroom, which you'll definitely want to be using. Don't be scared about second hand gear. Camera bodies, as mentioned already, are basically a no-brainer. Ask the seller to provide the shutter actuation count (software is available to read it off the camera for like $2 and if they don't want to tell you it then the listing is best avoided) to give you an idea of how much use the body's had, bearing in mind the shutters are rated for 100k+ actuations; other than that, if the body looks fine then it should be fine. Buying a used lens off ebay is a bit more risky but, in either case, buyer protection has you covered if the item doesn't match the description. If you buy a lens described as "very good condition" and it has scratches and/or mould then you'll get your money back, it depends if you're willing to risk the hassle I guess. Remember, everything is relative. You'll see people in here talking about the latest Canon v. Nikon low level ISO performance or whatever, but you're coming from a phone camera for chrissakes. Even my 500D setup would blow that image quality out of the water in so many ways that they're not even in the same league. Having the body with the newest model number on the side of it isn't everything. rolleyes fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 14:37
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zeroprime posted:Ah, ok. So it's the black sheep of the family. Yes - it's intentionally feature reduced, and made with some older parts to meet a price point so that Canon can have a super low price dslr on the shelves at walmart come christmastime. They are fine in and of themselves, but the features they take out are things you will want if you are actually trying to learn
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Jul 10, 2015 14:37
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The reason I'm so hesitant about buying a used body is that I know really nothing about what to look for etc. I'm into cars and I've grown up with a dad who taught me a bit about them and I've seen how shady used cars are. Bodies are easier to buy. Typically, what you see is what you get. If it's broken, it's immediately obvious. The thing with bodies though, is that unlike lenses, they don't hold their value that well. Once a newer version of that body is out, expect it to lose quite a bit of their value. This also works in your favour since people just sell off their old kit when they're upgrading. For a similar checklist for bodies: packaging: - receipts are a plus, but for Canon it doesn't matter too much. warranties are only valid for a year when brand new, and Canon does out-of-warranty service for any camera without receipts (for a fee, obviously). by the time you buy a used camera, it's already out of warranty. this applies for Canada, I think it's the same for the US? - original boxes and accessories are a plus as that helps with the resale value body: - ask the seller for the shutter actuation count of the body. most Canon bodies are rated for 100k+ actuations, but can typically go beyond that value - inspect the camera, look for dings, scratches or rubber peeling that are dealbreakers for you - try all buttons and knobs, make sure they turn or press easily - bring a lens you're familiar with and look into the viewfinder, see if it's dirty or has mold. these can be a problem with the viewfinder itself, the mirror box or the focusing screen. - look at the mirror box and sensor to see if it's super dirty or smudged - take a couple of pictures and see if the shutter sounds fine - take a couple of pictures of something super bright, dark and normal exposure, check the results and check for anything immediately obvious that's wrong. DSLR's are mostly pretty rugged so you don't really have to worry too much. (DigitalRev burned and melted a 7D and it still takes pictures) Most of the issues with used cameras are mostly cosmetic or dirt stuck in the wrong places.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:01
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I guess as well I'm having trouble seeing how the 1200d can be so bad that I'm better off buying a 40d, which is several generations old if I understand it right (50, 60, 70). Surely a 40d would have been used enough that the shutter would be prone to failure? I have a 30D and it still works perfectly fine.
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Jul 10, 2015 19:57
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HookShot posted:I have a 30D and it still works perfectly fine. my friend is using my old 10D that i bought at launch, still works great for her and i have a brassy as hell eos 3 that still works great
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Jul 10, 2015 20:12
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The point here is, its going to be hard to get a crap camera if you're even somewhat trying to make sure it's good.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:26
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Also the good thing about the pre-60D models is their metal body is solid enough to beat someone to death. Weirdly, you never see that in product feature lists.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:43
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I agree with everyone that used camera bodies can save you a ton of money. My first body was a 20D that cost me $200. Yea, it was a bit behind the times in 2010, but it took great photos and cost 1/5 of what it originally sold it for. I sold it a couple years later for like $125 or something. One thing I've noticed is that owners of higher end camera (anything in the x0D or range rather than a Rebel) tend to have a more realistic view of resale value. It's not rare to see someone trying to sell the Rebel they paid $600 for a few years ago for $500. To them it was a really expensive camera and must still be worth a lot. The 1200D/1100D/1000D line of bodies is a big waste of time. You lose a lot of functionality for a little savings and nearly everyone who buys these would be way better off just buying used. edit: Wow, I really hosed up those model numbers. BeastOfExmoor fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 23:49
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BeastOfExmoor posted:The T1200/T1100/T1000 line of bodies is a big waste of time. You lose a lot of functionality for a little savings and nearly everyone who buys these would be way better off just buying used. I'm not sure they're such a bad deal, really. The T1000 at least had a liquid metal coating, and could change its form based on what was needed. ... It also had great weatherproofing, especially against super-cold ice.
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Jul 12, 2015 12:51
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I'm not sure they're such a bad deal, really. The T1000 at least had a liquid metal coating, and could change its form based on what was needed. Extreme heat is always a problem though. But It could really take day to day damage.
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Jul 12, 2015 13:11
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Wow, I really hosed up those model numbers.
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Jul 12, 2015 15:54
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http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/calamvale/digital-slr/dslr-camera-canon-eos-600d-18-55-is-ii-single-lens-kit-/1083813415 Found this while in a waiting room with a quick search but that's a good option right? Looks like it comes with the kit lense, do I need the Tamron one you guys talk about? I'll do more looking tonight probably. What are the specs on the Tamron?
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Jul 13, 2015 03:26
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/calamvale/digital-slr/dslr-camera-canon-eos-600d-18-55-is-ii-single-lens-kit-/1083813415 Tamron has a larger aperture of 2.8 but does not have the IS of the kit lens. Tamron should be sharper.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:30
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/calamvale/digital-slr/dslr-camera-canon-eos-600d-18-55-is-ii-single-lens-kit-/1083813415 You should just get familiar with the camera before you sink money into lenses. The stock 18-55 is a workhorse, and I've taken some spectacular shots with it. If you want a starter DSLR that's a pretty good opportunity sitting there.
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Jul 13, 2015 13:29
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Frogfingers posted:You should just get familiar with the camera before you sink money into lenses. The stock 18-55 is a workhorse, and I've taken some spectacular shots with it. If you want a starter DSLR that's a pretty good opportunity sitting there. Very good point, the kit lens can be quite good provided you keep in mind its limitations in lower light .. but the IS is very nice.
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Jul 13, 2015 14:04
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Cross-posting from the gear threadStar War Sex Parrot posted:Interest check on this stuff...
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Jul 13, 2015 21:39
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All used dslrs bar one advertised in Brisbane have been sold already and were owned by angry Asian women who blame you for calling to ask about the ad they haven't taken down. Why is this so hard I just wanna throw my money at people and they won't take it.
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Jul 15, 2015 05:32
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All the glass and the body ended up going locally, but I have a lot of Canon accessories up for sale still: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125105&pagenumber=221&perpage=40#post447740910
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Jul 15, 2015 06:54
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Crossposting from the first DLSR thread I've been thinking about the discussion on which Canon entry level SLR to buy. I'm starting to think that no one new to photography should buy a crop Canon. I mean I guess in your situation it might be good because you got a buddy you can borrow glass from, but I think most people would be better off with a good mirrorless system. They're smaller, have much more advanced technology, and it seems in general the lenses are cheaper. Canon's crop cameras haven't kept up at all with other manufacturers.
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Jul 15, 2015 19:41
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