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Renaissance Robot posted:So I went to add some air to my tyres in advance of taking a longish trip, and the gauge on the pump read zero when I put the nozzle on, though they didn't appear to be flat Gauge is hosed.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:48
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That's what I assumed first, but after filling them it was fine. Zeroed after taking the nozzle off, put it on and it went to the number I'd filled them to, minus a couple kPa or so.  I suppose the thing to do would be get another gauge so I can be sure, but ugh I'd rather spend that money on booze e/ if it was just a blocked sensor you'd think that after running the pressure up on one tyre it'd be able to read the other one fine, but after inflating the rear the front one read zero too. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 20:57
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A MIRACLE posted:well the bike doesn't start so great. Takes a LOT of starter button. I'm worried about draining the battery actually. It doesn't seem to care what position my choke is on, until it does, and then it has to be in the middle. gently caress I shoulda just bought a ninja 300 Yeah, stuff like this is why people recommend you not buy an old 70's/80's bike as your first bike unless you really like working on them more than riding them. Sorry 'bout your troubles man, you may have to pony up for a flatbed to a shop if you don't have the tools and knowledge to start taking apart your carbs and fuel filter at work. 
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Jul 10, 2015 20:59
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How much are N250 carbs anyway? I'd just order a brand-new set and then swap them over, call it a day. Rebuild/sell the old ones at your leisure. Of course I'm coming from a scooter where genuine Mikunis are $50.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:03
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Renaissance Robot posted:That's what I assumed first, but after filling them it was fine. Zeroed after taking the nozzle off, put it on and it went to the number I'd filled them to, minus a couple kPa or so. You can pick up the little pen-style pressure gauges for free in all sorts of places (magazines and shops often give them away as freebies), or if not they cost like two quid by the till at most bike and car parts places. Garage tyre pressure gauges are ridiculously unreliable, and you'd definitely know if your tyre was flat no matter how light your bike is.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:12
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HotCanadianChick posted:Yeah, stuff like this is why people recommend you not buy an old 70's/80's bike as your first bike unless you really like working on them more than riding them. Sorry 'bout your troubles man, you may have to pony up for a flatbed to a shop if you don't have the tools and knowledge to start taking apart your carbs and fuel filter at work. At least try a tank of seafoam first though.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:57
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Well, I figured out my gas mileage problem, and the problem was me. Kudos to the one of you that suggested my riding style. I'm embarrassed to say I've just been terrible with my gear selection. I tend to take off from stops pretty hard, then shift up once at my target speed. Turns out I should be double or even triple shifting then. MPG went for 31 to a more respectable 45. Of course, this helped with the touchy throttle and noise issues as well.
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Jul 11, 2015 00:08
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Renaissance Robot posted:That's what I assumed first, but after filling them it was fine. Zeroed after taking the nozzle off, put it on and it went to the number I'd filled them to, minus a couple kPa or so. My bicycle pump will usually do this. When I first put it on it reads 0 but once I start filling it reads a better number. I've always operated under the assumption that pumps with built in pressure gauges (both hand pump and electric) always have poo poo gauges. I usually check off of a pen gauge if I really care.
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Jul 11, 2015 00:43
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Out of all the gauges I've compared those cheapo pen gauges really seem to be the best. Mini compressors are terrible, the in line gauges at gas stations are terrible. My bicycle pump is off but predictable, it reads ~4-5 psi high.
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Jul 11, 2015 00:48
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Cycle Asylum: WHY DON'T YOU HAVE A MULTIMETER
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Jul 11, 2015 02:15
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HotCanadianChick posted:Yeah, stuff like this is why people recommend you not buy an old 70's/80's bike as your first bike unless you really like working on them more than riding them. Sorry 'bout your troubles man, you may have to pony up for a flatbed to a shop if you don't have the tools and knowledge to start taking apart your carbs and fuel filter at work. It's cool, I'll figure it out.
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Jul 11, 2015 02:18
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So, just tested voltages on the SMC. After spending all night on the charger, the battery read 13.03v. With the ignition on it drops to 12.7v, and appeared to drop .01v every few seconds. With the killswitch turned on it read 12.64v. When I first tried to start it it didn't catch, it chugged and the multimeter showed the voltage jumping between 8.6v and 10.6v. I turned off the killswitch and tried to start it again after maybe 20 seconds, long enough to note the previous bit in my phone. It appeared to start immediately and didn't display a drop below 11v. I then turned it off and started it again several times. Each time it chugged(showing 8v on the chugs) but did start the bike without being held very long, showing 9-10v on the ones where it finally started the engine. I was expecting it to start immediately having been on the charger overnight, that would have clearly told me that the battery wasn't holding charge. As it didn't I'm fairly confused, but I don't have enough knowledge to diagnose much else. Thanks for any help guys!
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Jul 11, 2015 08:05
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nsaP posted:Out of all the gauges I've compared those cheapo pen gauges really seem to be the best. Mini compressors are terrible, the in line gauges at gas stations are terrible. My bicycle pump is off but predictable, it reads ~4-5 psi high.  Basically anything with a reading face on it sucks rear end unless it's a professional grade tool that costs $$$. The pen type ones are foolproof.
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Jul 11, 2015 08:13
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Trauma Tank posted:So, just tested voltages on the SMC. Your battery shouldn't be dropping below 10v under turnover - replace it.
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Jul 11, 2015 09:01
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Z3n posted:Your battery shouldn't be dropping below 10v under turnover - replace it. Yeah, that's some weird poo poo but battery seems most likely and certainly the easiest thing to eliminate.
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Jul 11, 2015 09:35
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Z3n posted:Your battery shouldn't be dropping below 10v under turnover - replace it. I just called the shop that sold me the bike, they're getting me a replacement in for Tuesday, as well as hopefully some other stuff they're supposed to have for me. This is pretty annoying but I know bad batteries happen relatively often, hopefully that's all this is.
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Jul 11, 2015 09:55
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nsaP posted:Out of all the gauges I've compared those cheapo pen gauges really seem to be the best. Mini compressors are terrible, the in line gauges at gas stations are terrible. My bicycle pump is off but predictable, it reads ~4-5 psi high. Got a pen gauge this morning, turns out my tyres were actually at the recommended pressure before I put any air in them because when I stuck the gauge on they both read as double that, around 50-60psi  Certainly explains why it was coasting so much better.
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Jul 11, 2015 12:42
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The recommended pressure on my Bandit is 36/36 psi, and when the shop put new tires on it last year I think they had them at 45/45 psi. Like WTF.
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Jul 11, 2015 16:18
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I've never in my life had a tire mounted that came back at anything other than 45PSI.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:48
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Trauma Tank posted:I just called the shop that sold me the bike, they're getting me a replacement in for Tuesday, as well as hopefully some other stuff they're supposed to have for me. This is pretty annoying but I know bad batteries happen relatively often, hopefully that's all this is. It honestly sounds like a flaky connection somewhere. The battery is probably shot from overcurrent at this point, but next time something like that happens, check your terminals. In fact, when you're putting the new battery in, check your grounding system out. There should be some reasonably beefy wires connecting the frame and engine and battery and starter.
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Jul 11, 2015 19:06
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:It honestly sounds like a flaky connection somewhere. The battery is probably shot from overcurrent at this point, but next time something like that happens, check your terminals. In fact, when you're putting the new battery in, check your grounding system out. There should be some reasonably beefy wires connecting the frame and engine and battery and starter. I'll keep an eye out when I test it out in the morning, I'll also mention it to the shop when they're replacing the battery, thanks!
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Jul 11, 2015 20:49
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revmoo posted:I've never in my life had a tire mounted that came back at anything other than 45PSI. Cause that's what it takes to seat the bead and the tech is too lazy/indifferent to set the pressure to what your bike should have.
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Jul 11, 2015 22:00
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Slavvy posted:Cause that's what it takes to seat the bead and the tech is too lazy/indifferent to set the pressure to what your bike should have. That's why, for my next bike, I'm going to order every single part from Ron Ayers and just put the whole thing together in my garage, piece by piece.
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Jul 11, 2015 22:13
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captainOrbital posted:That's why, for my next bike, I'm going to order every single part from Ron Ayers and just put the whole thing together in my garage, piece by piece. Does anyone do a kit bike like Caterham and the others do for cars? I feel like putting a bike together in the shed would be a great little winter project even if I never actually rode it (because I don't trust my mechanical ability enough to do anything more complex than putting ridiculous horns on my bike). e: Hmm googling for "kit motorbike" produces a picture of a Shiver, I think Google are deliberately taking a pop at me
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Jul 12, 2015 23:16
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Nah, not really a thing that exists. Better off buying a custom frame and swapping things. Making bikes from OEM parts is hilariously expensive.
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Jul 13, 2015 04:13
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Does anyone do a kit bike like Caterham and the others do for cars? I feel like putting a bike together in the shed would be a great little winter project even if I never actually rode it (because I don't trust my mechanical ability enough to do anything more complex than putting ridiculous horns on my bike). There are no buttom-up kits available AFAIK, but companies like Ryca Motors and Blue Collar Bobbers do kits to convert otherwise boring bikes (Suzuki Savage etc.) into neat little cafe racers, flat trackers and bobbers. Nothing you couldn't do yourself with a bit of hunting for parts, but they make it a lot easier by selling complete packages.
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Jul 13, 2015 08:32
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Trauma Tank posted:I'll keep an eye out when I test it out in the morning, I'll also mention it to the shop when they're replacing the battery, thanks! Make sure they replace it with the correct genuine Yuasa as spec'd in the manual. The 690s are hard on batteries, I tried a generic but killed it in about 6 months.
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Jul 13, 2015 18:32
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Is there a standard battery voltage I should test for with a multimeter or does it vary by bike? I have an old 4 cylinder water cooled honda if that makes a difference. Also, I might have found the culprit to my bikes fuel delivery problems. I added gas to be nearly full tank and was able to get the bike to warm up and ride without stalling (after some coaxing with the starter). So I think the issue might be my fuel pump, which only kicks on when the fuel level drops below a certain level. It has a backpressure sensor or something... Either that or it was out of fuel, but I only had 50 miles on the tank since my last fill up, in which case it's still running like poo poo and needs a tune up. I'm taking it to this customs shop to have a Honda dude look at it later this week, and teach me how to fix poo poo.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:33
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All batteries are the same voltage, you want around 13V. If you want to eliminate the delivery pump just hook a hose directly to the petcock and hold the tank physically higher than the carbs to see if it runs any better.
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Jul 14, 2015 01:58
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I came across an odd situation: I noticed that my rear brakes were making a grinding noise, so I took a look at them and it looks like one of the pads is ground almost all the way down. I put these pads on right after I bought the bike from some neglectful bastard, and when I replaced them, both pads were worn down to the metal. Some of the metal was worn, in fact. Now, however, it looks like just one of the pads (the wheel-side one, the one that is not attached to the caliper pistons) is worn, while the other one looks almost as thick as new. Obviously I have to replace the rear pads, but it's only been a couple of years and like...IDK, I have to look at my odometer. It can't have been that many miles. My commute is like a mile and a half each way. Any idea why one rear pad would be wearing so far down while the other looks brand new? The front pads have tons of life left. Is there a pixie switching out my brake pads in the night?
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Jul 14, 2015 03:48
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captainOrbital posted:I came across an odd situation: I noticed that my rear brakes were making a grinding noise, so I took a look at them and it looks like one of the pads is ground almost all the way down. Sounds to me like a sticky caliper. Maybe pull the caliper off and press the pistons back in and GENTLY press the brake pedal to work them back out, and see if you can loosen it up a bit. If not, I'm not sure if anyone actually hones caliper pistons anymore but maybe disassembling and rebuilding them might help you. Worst case scenario you're in for a new caliper from a parts shop online.
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Jul 14, 2015 03:54
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Definitely a seized caliper. I'd check the slides too.
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Jul 14, 2015 04:10
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Yeah sounds like a sliding caliper that's not sliding. I'd take it apart and grease up the pins etc. Unless the pins are pitted with rust, then replace them. Or the whole caliper if you can't get them. I'd generally say it's worth it to replace the piston seals too if you're doing that kind of work. Make sure the pistons are ok. Scrape out the seal grooves with a pick, crap builds up in there over time and can ruin the new seals when you try to install the piston.
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Jul 14, 2015 14:58
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Cool, thanks guys; I'll take a look when I get my new pads in the mail. I should order a caliper rebuild kit too, I guess. This is why it's important to have more than one bike.
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Jul 14, 2015 17:26
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KozmoNaut posted:There are no buttom-up kits available AFAIK, but companies like Ryca Motors and Blue Collar Bobbers do kits to convert otherwise boring bikes (Suzuki Savage etc.) into neat little cafe racers, flat trackers and bobbers. This is pretty much what the original kit car was. You bought some usable donor car and swapped out the bits in the kit - usually a fiberglass body to make it look fast, not bits to make it go fast. There must be a decent market for this in bikes. Not changing it completely but a facelift/modernization thing like the revamp kit you can get for the R1100GS. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/224/PN-360-0011/Touratech-TB11-ReVamp-Kit-R1100GS
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Jul 14, 2015 19:03
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Ola posted:This is pretty much what the original kit car was. You bought some usable donor car and swapped out the bits in the kit - usually a fiberglass body to make it look fast, not bits to make it go fast. You think you'd be able to sell this bike:  for 3 grand? Cause the Blue-Collar Bobbers kit is about $1400. If you can get a decent EX250 for about a grand...
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Jul 14, 2015 19:36
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captainOrbital posted:Cool, thanks guys; I'll take a look when I get my new pads in the mail. I should order a caliper rebuild kit too, I guess. I figure, if it's socially acceptable for most people to own four wheels, I don't see why the same shouldn't apply to us.
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Jul 14, 2015 19:39
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Ola posted:This is pretty much what the original kit car was. You bought some usable donor car and swapped out the bits in the kit - usually a fiberglass body to make it look fast, not bits to make it go fast.  Just provide your own CBR600.
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Jul 14, 2015 19:59
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This could be a stupid question, but I don't have much of any mechanical experience and am trying to figure out what's going on here. I was swapping the tire on my TW200 last night and noticed these tubes coming off of the carb have been melted (not sure if you can see it in the picture or not). What is the purpose of these, and should I worry about it too much? The bike has been running perfectly fine for the past month that I've had it, and these look like old melts. There are still holes in the tubes, so they're not totally sealed off. Any suggestions on what they are/what I should do about it if anything? Thanks!
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Jul 15, 2015 14:27
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They're just carb vents/overflows. Probably worth replacing to avoid dumping gas on a hot engine if the bike tips over.
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Jul 15, 2015 16:51
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