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Dominoes posted:Play. Really when you're spending >$1000 on the drives alone for business trying to shave a few $hundred off the controller doesn't seem like a good value. Alereon fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 22:59
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Related to storage, how come in my Plex server sometimes a 3 or 4GB file transfer between two SATA mechanical hard drives is sustained at like 120-150MB/s and then other times, a transfer of another 3/4GB file between the two same drives drops down to like 30-50MB/s? Is that just like a variable dependent on how fast the platters are rotating or whatever?
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Jul 12, 2015 03:35
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teagone posted:Related to storage, how come in my Plex server sometimes a 3 or 4GB file transfer between two SATA mechanical hard drives is sustained at like 120-150MB/s and then other times, a transfer of another 3/4GB file between the two same drives drops down to like 30-50MB/s? Is that just like a variable dependent on how fast the platters are rotating or whatever? This probably a result of the latter transfers involving fragmentation on one or both of the drives, so the drives can't go full speed ahead on reading and instead need to switch around, which reduces your throughput.
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Jul 12, 2015 03:56
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Here's a fun question for you: what are the little black plastic adaptors that hold the wires coming from the power button/LED/etc. that plug into the pins on the motherboard called? I have to buy one because my old one doesn't fit this new motherboard and I don't feel comfortable just plugging them directly to the board because that seems like a good way to short something out. Turns out it's hard to buy something you don't know the name of.
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Jul 12, 2015 08:58
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GruntyThrst posted:Here's a fun question for you: what are the little black plastic adaptors that hold the wires coming from the power button/LED/etc. that plug into the pins on the motherboard called? I have to buy one because my old one doesn't fit this new motherboard and I don't feel comfortable just plugging them directly to the board because that seems like a good way to short something out. I'm not sure if it's the exact term for the computer guts ones, but they're basically the same as jumper wires for electronics. Here's a pack with way more than you'd need of M to M, M to F, and F to F: http://www.amazon.com/Kalevel%C2%AE-120pcs-Multicolored-Female-Breadboard/dp/B00M5WLZDW/ You can probably get smaller quantities now that you know what you're looking for.
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Jul 12, 2015 09:05
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If you match up the board's headers from the manual to the case headers you can just match them easily without an adapter. Just pay attention to polarity for the HDD/activity LEDs. Power and reset button polarity generally doesn't matter.
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Jul 12, 2015 17:57
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cisco privilege posted:If you match up the board's headers from the manual to the case headers you can just match them easily without an adapter. Just pay attention to polarity for the HDD/activity LEDs. Power and reset button polarity generally doesn't matter. I figured but I preferred having an adapter because I figure just plugging the bare crimped connector dowhickees would be at risk for shorting out if something somehow fell between them. I just took a razor blade and carved off the 2 slots on the adapter I didn't need after removing the wires and then rewired it. It was a 12 pin, but the new board is a 10 pin and right up next to some SATA ports so the old one was too big.
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Jul 12, 2015 18:16
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Rexxed posted:Motorola/Arris SB6121, 6141, 6183 are the ones to get. Look at your service level to see what to buy: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ Thanks for this – I only have Blast, so the 6121 looks like it'll work great. Now just hoping the technician doesn't throw a fit about it not being a Comcast-rented modem, although I've heard that's more of an issue with TWC support rather than Comcast. Thanks again! Alereon posted:As usual, I will note that Comcast and other ISPs are beginning their rollouts of DOCSIS 3.1 service, and the modems you buy now will be DOCSIS 3.0. There will be a transitional period while older modems still work, but if you're on a higher speed tier you will be among the first users switched to DOCSIS 3.1. Also I've found ISPs will try to blame your modem for issues if you own it, but getting better support and less pushback probably isn't worth the monthly fee. Honestly, I'd rather eat the cost of a new modem up-front again rather than rent, but once this starts affecting my plan would a good course of action generally be to rent from Comcast until commercial modems get in a reliable place, or will the first wave of commercial 3.1 modems be just as good as later-released models? edit: While I'm here, is there a thread in SHSC for audio setups? I couldn't find one in a quick glance around but I'm bad at finding threads. Heavy Lobster fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 23:18
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Anybody make any sense of this? WHS2011, and I just replaced 3x 2TB WD Red drives with 3x 3TB Reds. CrystalDiskInfo runs resident, and last night it started emailing failure notices across a variety of several drives. I've never seen a CDI BAD report due to a zero value in Spin-Up Time nor RSC (CDI is showing raw values in decimal).
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Jul 14, 2015 15:06
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It looks like it's mostly not returning SMART data at all. Eep.
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Jul 14, 2015 15:14
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Not sure whether to put it in software or hardware, so I put it in both: I am formatting my SSD in Windows; do I format the separate 10% partition that Samsung’s SSD tool created, and merge it with my partition, or do I just leave it as is? There’s also a system-reserved partition, but I just figure that should be left as-is. In other words: - [ ] System reserved - [ ] Primary - [ ] Unallocated (10%) I’m thinking of doing this: - [ ] System reserved - [D] Primary - [D] Unallocated (10%) Where D is “Delete” instead of Format. It’s been forever since I installed Windows on a computer, so I might be wrong here.
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Jul 14, 2015 16:22
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ufarn posted:Not sure whether to put it in software or hardware, so I put it in both: If you do want to keep the overprovisioning in place then you must not format the partition. The entire point is that no data should ever be written to it.
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Jul 14, 2015 20:13
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Sir Unimaginative posted:It looks like it's mostly not returning SMART data at all. Eep.  Drive E: is now "Unknown" while drive G: is "Bad" I have these in a Stablebit Drivepool and have StableBit Scanner installed. It's been doing a full sector by sector scan, and drive E: completely passed and drive G: is 80% scanned without error. So, maybe the drives have firmware that's too new? Or something? Note that drives I: and J: are on a 3TB drive, like these new 3TB Reds, but it has the same firmware as my older 2TB Reds, 80.00A80, rather than what the new 3TB Reds have, 82.8200A82. Edit: WTF? I was just going back to CDI to check the firmware version when I watched the G: drive return to "Good" status!
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Jul 15, 2015 04:49
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Tapedump posted:Weirder now..
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Jul 15, 2015 06:33
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Yeah, no problems. Just odd behavior. StableBit Scanner reports the same SMART status but doesn't bark about the drives. Must be some funky combo of these new drives, CDI, maybe my Z77 storage controller...
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Jul 15, 2015 06:54
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Thanks to Tapedump I decided to open up CDI on my Plex server since its been a while, and lo and behold I got a caution warning on my Windows drive. Should I be worried? Is there anything I can do to remedy that?
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Jul 15, 2015 11:31
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teagone posted:Thanks to Tapedump I decided to open up CDI on my Plex server since its been a while, and lo and behold I got a caution warning on my Windows drive. Should I be worried? I'd be a little concerned. Is the drive having issues? Also 0x45 g-sensor warnings, stop kicking it while it's running! These things may be related but it could also be having age related issues. Personally I'd RMA it or buy a new disk asap, but it may yet continue to live for a while.
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Jul 15, 2015 12:14
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Rexxed posted:I'd be a little concerned. Is the drive having issues? Also 0x45 g-sensor warnings, stop kicking it while it's running! These things may be related but it could also be having age related issues. Personally I'd RMA it or buy a new disk asap, but it may yet continue to live for a while. Weird... regarding the g-sensor thing, I've never physically abused the PC or hard drive to my my knowledge haha. And yeah, the drive/PC is relatively old, as you can tell by the power on hours. I was planning on replacing the drive soon anyways. It's well out of warranty, so I'm hoping a 1TB blue goes on sale during that Amazon Prime Day thing. As for any issues with the drive, I have been noticing dips in transfer speeds between it and a brand new 5TB HDD I dropped in the server last week—it's an issue I had brought up just a few posts above in this thread. Initial transfers between the drive and the new 5TB drive were sustained at around 120MB/s (maxing out at 150MB/s or so), but now they've dropped down to about 20-30MB/s. Sometimes it goes back up to the ~100MB/s range, but it's inconsistent. Could that be a sign of it possibly dying soon? teagone fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 12:25
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teagone posted:Weird... regarding the g-sensor thing, I've never physically abused the PC or hard drive to my my knowledge haha. And yeah, the drive/PC is relatively old, as you can tell by the power on hours. I was planning on replacing the drive soon anyways. It's well out of warranty, so I'm hoping a 1TB blue goes on sale during that Amazon Prime Day thing.
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Jul 15, 2015 13:19
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Alereon posted:Your drive is starting to fail, but my biggest concern is the "UDMA CRC Error" count, which indicates data corruption between the drive and system. This is usually caused by a bad or loose SATA cable, or RAM errors. It could also be caused by a failing drive, so see if you get those errors with a new drive, cable, and after running a memory diagnostic. Cool, will do. Thanks for the heads up 
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Jul 15, 2015 21:30
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What the gently caress is this and how do i hook it to my mobo? Just got a corsair 100r case and this is the cable that connects to the USB 3.0 front panel. http://imgur.com/WVm4tMH my mobo http://imgur.com/Eb9sg09
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Jul 16, 2015 03:07
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You need a USB3 header to connect to
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Jul 16, 2015 03:11
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Walked posted:You need a USB3 header to connect to Does this mean my ivybridge mobo is out of date?
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Jul 16, 2015 03:46
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Prorat posted:Does this mean my ivybridge mobo is out of date?
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Jul 16, 2015 03:51
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Alereon posted:Lower-end boards don't have USB 3.0 headers because all of the available USB 3.0 ports are hooked up to the back panel. Higher-end boards have additional USB 3.0 controllers to provide more ports. Roger that, thanks for the help.
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Jul 16, 2015 04:00
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Prorat posted:Does this mean my ivybridge mobo is out of date? You can probably find a USB 3.0 internal cable to 2.0 header adapter places. You probably already guessed you're only going to be able to use it as 2.0 ports.
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Jul 16, 2015 06:47
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So here's an odd thing that happened. I was going to RMA one of my 1TB Blues because I had recently run an extended test on it using WD Lifeguard and it failed due to too many bad sectors (I ran the diagnostics because the drive periodically would disappear from explorer and file transfers would fail on it). Prior to wiping the drive, I ran chkdsk /r on it and then pulled anything important off. Once I transferred all the data from it, I formatted the drive again, and for shits decided to run another Lifeguard extended test. This time it passed. What the hell? Did chkdsk /r fix the disk? Bringing up the drive in CDI shows no issues or anything (at least to my knowledge). [edit] Here's the CD info of the WD Blue that originally failed the Lifeguard extended test like 20 minutes in...  Ran the Lifeguard extended test again overnight, went the full 6-7 hours, and it passed. Strange. Is there anything worrisome in the CDI screenshot? Should I still RMA it, or is the drive fine now? teagone fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 11:45
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teagone posted:So here's an odd thing that happened. I was going to RMA one of my 1TB Blues because I had recently run an extended test on it using WD Lifeguard and it failed due to too many bad sectors (I ran the diagnostics because the drive periodically would disappear from explorer and file transfers would fail on it). Prior to wiping the drive, I ran chkdsk /r on it and then pulled anything important off. Once I transferred all the data from it, I formatted the drive again, and for shits decided to run another Lifeguard extended test. This time it passed. What the hell? Did chkdsk /r fix the disk? Bringing up the drive in CDI shows no issues or anything (at least to my knowledge). In the future, never run CHKDSK /R. It does nothing at all on a drive that isn't failing, and on a failing drive just reduces your chances to recover data.
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Jul 16, 2015 12:30
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Alereon posted:CHKDSK /R will either kill a drive outright or temporarily hide the signs of its failure, which is what happened in this case. You definitely still need to RMA the failing drive because the problems are just going to come back worse. Good to know, thanks! Weird thing is, before I ran CHKDSK /R I wasn't able to pull anything off the drive; file transfers would start, hover around 30-50MB/s, and then consistently drop to 0MB/s at around 30% in and just freeze there, not starting up again. After I ran CHKDSK /R I was able to pull everything off just fine, about 700GB of data, at a sustained 115-120MB/s transfer rate. I guess I should note that the reason I ran CHKDSK /R was because it was a step in a Macrium Reflect tutorial I read regarding creating an image of a hard drive with bad sectors (which I successfully did as well), heh. [edit] Here was the tutorial http://kb.macrium.com/KnowledgebaseArticle50121.aspx teagone fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 12:47
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teagone posted:Good to know, thanks! Weird thing is, before I ran CHKDSK /R I wasn't able to pull anything off the drive; file transfers would start, hover around 30-50MB/s, and then consistently drop to 0MB/s at around 30% in and just freeze there, not starting up again. After I ran CHKDSK /R I was able to pull everything off just fine, about 700GB of data, at a sustained 115-120MB/s transfer rate. I'd imagine the low speed before running 'chkdsk /r' would be due to Windows running into the bad sectors as it was copying (and would probably also explain the transfer stopping, as it ground to a halt trying to read faulty sectors.) After running chkdsk, all references to bad sectors in the filesystem would have been altered to point to clean ones. Presumably, this will mean that some of the files you copied off have been silently damaged: quote:It's important to realize that you have already lost data if clusters are relocated, as the data contained in them is unrecoverable. As far as I know, Alereon is right about 'chkdsk /r' on a failing drive; a drive with bad sectors is a tenuous house of cards, and it isn't helpful to have chkdsk go through and prod every sector one by one to see how they're doing. Sure, you can enable Windows to read the files again by cutting out references to bad sectors, but you can also image the drive (while having your imaging program ignore bad sectors), as it describes in the last section of that article. This achieves the same end of saving as much data as possible, while minimising the amount of interaction your machine has with the failing drive. Also, pretend I said something cautionary about backups or whatever.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:41
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Is there any downside to imaging a failing hard drive? I have a laptop that someone gave to me, and Crystal Disk is showing a Caution sign. Was just going to use Macrium to image the disk to a new one, and throw it back into the laptop.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:39
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Is there any downside to imaging a failing hard drive? I have a laptop that someone gave to me, and Crystal Disk is showing a Caution sign. Was just going to use Macrium to image the disk to a new one, and throw it back into the laptop. Any corrupt data on the old drive will transfer to the new drive. If the drive won't boot for whatever reason, imaging it won't magically make it boot. It's always best to back up the data as best as possible and install fresh on the new drive.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:47
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Gothmog1065 posted:Any corrupt data on the old drive will transfer to the new drive. If the drive won't boot for whatever reason, imaging it won't magically make it boot. It's always best to back up the data as best as possible and install fresh on the new drive. It still boots, and it's still usable. Honestly, I wouldn't have even guessed that anything is wrong with the drive (didn't experience any weird behavior or anything) if I didn't open Crystal Disk.
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Jul 16, 2015 17:04
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I posted this in the PC system build thread, but got no answer. I googled a bit, and didn't find anything clear, so I'm still clueless:quote:What video card do I get if I don't care about games, but don't want to worry about displaying multimedia stuff like 4k Youtube on a HiDPI display? In addition to an i3-4160, that is.
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Jul 16, 2015 18:43
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midnightclimax posted:I posted this in the PC system build thread, but got no answer. I googled a bit, and didn't find anything clear, so I'm still clueless:
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Jul 16, 2015 18:51
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midnightclimax posted:I posted this in the PC system build thread, but got no answer. I googled a bit, and didn't find anything clear, so I'm still clueless: I'd imagine a 750Ti, but that's my answer to everything that wants graphics, but doesn't need a lot. Edit: Nvm, Alereon got it. I have a real question though, and I've done some searching and can't seem to find anything aside from some YOSPOS posts and it's kinda hardware and related to computers. I'm looking for a nice chair that I won't have to replace as often as the cheapo garbage I buy at Walmart. Someone recommended some 370 dollar Maxnomic chair, and while I don't doubt the quality and totally understand paying a lot for something I'm going to be sitting my fat nerdy rear end in for god-knows-how-many hours, I was just wondering if anybody has any other input on the matter, or other chairs that they'd recommend for their butts. Touchfuzzy fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 18:51
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Alereon posted:Is there a particular reason the onboard video won't work for you? It's pretty capable for HTPC use as long as you don't need HEVC, and drivers have had two years to mature since that article. If you need more I think a GTX 960 would be best option, it's the only videocard with full HEVC hardware acceleration. I wasn't sure how the onboard video would cope with HiDPI and high resolution video. But if it does, great. Touchfuzzy posted:I'd imagine a 750Ti, but that's my answer to everything that wants graphics, but doesn't need a lot. Yeah I think that's the low-end gamer recommendation from the other thread.
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Jul 16, 2015 18:57
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Touchfuzzy posted:I have a real question though, and I've done some searching and can't seem to find anything aside from some YOSPOS posts and it's kinda hardware and related to computers. I'm looking for a nice chair that I won't have to replace as often as the cheapo garbage I buy at Walmart. Someone recommended some 370 dollar Maxnomic chair, and while I don't doubt the quality and totally understand paying a lot for something I'm going to be sitting my fat nerdy rear end in for god-knows-how-many hours, I was just wondering if anybody has any other input on the matter, or other chairs that they'd recommend for their butts.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:25
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Earl of Lavender posted:I'd imagine the low speed before running 'chkdsk /r' would be due to Windows running into the bad sectors as it was copying (and would probably also explain the transfer stopping, as it ground to a halt trying to read faulty sectors.) After running chkdsk, all references to bad sectors in the filesystem would have been altered to point to clean ones. Presumably, this will mean that some of the files you copied off have been silently damaged: This is a dumb question, but can damaged files cause a drive to fail?
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Jul 16, 2015 22:00
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teagone posted:This is a dumb question, but can damaged files cause a drive to fail? It shouldn't. But I've learned form personal experience that a SATA controller that's failing can kill drives; probably from loving up their firmware somehow.
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Jul 16, 2015 22:22
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