|
Post 9-11 User posted:Is not power squatting, beefy legs, my kind of Marine asskicker. Nice job on making your own Chapter, too. I wish I could take credit for that but no, that's actually the Death Guard color scheme before they went all 'rot, vomit and pus'. It is a really cool scheme, though! Did you see the one with the finished base?
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 06:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 10:10 |
|
|
Heyho, Does anyone have any suggestions for giving objects an enchanted or magical look? Preferably metal objects? I'm trying to avoid the cartoon garishness of OSL, but I want to give a object, in this case a shield, a slight subtle other-worldly air. Many thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 10:09
|
|
|
Monster w21 Faces posted:Heyho, A colored glaze and a light drybrush with a bright silvery color (like the old Mithril SIlver/Runefang Steel paint) can give you a relatively fast and easy 'shimmery' effect.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 10:20
|
|
|
Generally, adding in glazes of turquoises, teals, and/or purples will give a subtle magical or otherworldly feel.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 13:11
|
|
|
Thanks folks, I'll give that a shot, maybe some slight white highlights. Would your answers change if I told you the shield was gold?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 13:15
|
|
|
Monster w21 Faces posted:Would your answers change if I told you the shield was gold? Add more green and teal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 13:18
|
|
|
It's so obvious. Yeah a light teal glaze and some nihilakh oxide in the recesses will probably work wonders. Thankyou everyone. Actually here's the mini in question. The blocking of the main armour is actually lead belcher with a brass scorpion and mithril dry brush then a mithril highlight. Once that was down I started laying on a wash mixture of earthshade and I think, auric gold. Took 3 applications but i'm quite happy with the metal shade. The shield on the other hand was just straight up auric and scorpion mix washed with easrthshade. I wanted a different colour between the two so the majority of the mini wasn't taken up by a single shade. I will probably take a third stab at another technique for the sword hilt. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 13:47
|
|
|
Any of you need have a magic recipe for thinning paint in an airbrush? I've been having pretty big clogging issues and can't quite figure out what the problem is. Lately I've been thinking with airbrush medium but have heard doing retarder might help out as well. Also been having issues spraying varnish, but I have done a pretty consistent job cleaning it afterwards as spraying water through it afterwards works perfectly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 14:14
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any of you need have a magic recipe for thinning paint in an airbrush? I've been having pretty big clogging issues and can't quite figure out what the problem is. Lately I've been thinking with airbrush medium but have heard doing retarder might help out as well. I'd like this as well, so far my solution is just to use airbrush paint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 15:19
|
|
|
I use Les Bursley's thinner recipe (which is water, flow aid and drying retarder I think), water and airbrush thinner/cleaner to thin various brands of paints. What you're using to thin isn't as important as getting the viscosity right for the needle size and air pressure you're using. At higher pressures (35+ psi) and larger needle sizes (0.4 or 0.5mm) you don't need to thin as much but as you lower the air pressure to 20 psi or less or smaller needle sizes you'll need to add whatever type of thinner you're using. When you're spraying at 10psi or even 5psi you may be thinning it down as much so you're spraying 10% paint and 90% thinner. The different brands vary and even colors within the brands will vary in viscosity, I spray straight out of the bottle at most about half the time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 15:54
|
|
|
Jesus Christ, eyes are hard to paint. It doesn't help when depth perception seems to be actively loving with me. Try to paint white next to the pupil? Nope, eyebrow!
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 15:58
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:Jesus Christ, eyes are hard to paint. It doesn't help when depth perception seems to be actively loving with me. Try to paint white next to the pupil? Nope, eyebrow! Layer order is what solves this problem, isn't it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:05
|
|
|
An Angry Bug posted:Jesus Christ, eyes are hard to paint. It doesn't help when depth perception seems to be actively loving with me. Try to paint white next to the pupil? Nope, eyebrow! 1. 2 dots of white, 1 dot black. If you can't paint eyes this is the easiest methid, don't paint a line of white you'll cover with the pupil anyway because lines are much easier to gently caress up than dots. Also, use a bigger brush with a very good point. It gives you more comfort space as you don't have to dot rioght now or your paint will dry. 2. Close one eye, move brush directly away from self, use the distance of brush and it's shadow to gauge when to stop pushing. hosed up depth perception is worse than no depth perception.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:06
|
|
|
Paint the eye black, dot in the corners in white. You might find it easier to hold the miniature upside down to paint the opposite eye.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:07
|
|
|
SRM posted:Paint the eye black, dot in the corners in white. Pierzak posted:1. 2 dots of white, 1 dot black. If you can't paint eyes this is the easiest methid, don't paint a line of white you'll cover with the pupil anyway because lines are much easier to gently caress up than dots. Also, use a bigger brush with a very good point. It gives you more comfort space as you don't have to dot rioght now or your paint will dry. SRM posted:You might find it easier to hold the miniature upside down to paint the opposite eye. Will try this and report back.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:19
|
|
|
I've found that I'm most comfortable doing a basecoat of the skin color, then a big old blob of white, slightly less big blob of black in the middle, and then cleaning up the edge with the skin tone. It helps avoid crazy beady eyes with tiny irises or the weird elongated irises you can get by doing two dots of white after the black. Also lately I've been laying down a layer of black first before the white in order to outline the eyes, and varying the thickness of the outline depending on whether you want a more masculine or feminine look, and have been really pleased with that effect. The downside to all of this is that you probably want to shade the skin of the face after the fact, so you've got to be a little more careful when doing that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:31
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:I use Les Bursley's thinner recipe (which is water, flow aid and drying retarder I think), water and airbrush thinner/cleaner to thin various brands of paints. What you're using to thin isn't as important as getting the viscosity right for the needle size and air pressure you're using. At higher pressures (35+ psi) and larger needle sizes (0.4 or 0.5mm) you don't need to thin as much but as you lower the air pressure to 20 psi or less or smaller needle sizes you'll need to add whatever type of thinner you're using. When you're spraying at 10psi or even 5psi you may be thinning it down as much so you're spraying 10% paint and 90% thinner. The different brands vary and even colors within the brands will vary in viscosity, I spray straight out of the bottle at most about half the time. wheat psi should I be doing? Ive been at about 40-45
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:47
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:wheat psi should I be doing? Ive been at about 40-45 At 25+ you'll have lots of overspray, so I hope you have a spray booth and mask (which you should use anyway, but with that much atomized paint swirling around it's even more important). I spray primer and basecoats at around 20-25psi (and many people will say that's too high for them), if I need to get into a tight spot without getting loads of paint collected up (like under an arm or tank skirt) I might thin the paint down and drop the pressure a bit. For most work like the red models I posted recently, which didn't require color gradients, I do the basecoats at the same pressure but for a higher quality model if I'm putting down lots of light coats with multiple colors to get a lot of color gradients I'll go down to 10psi or so. Also, I do test shots of color on the back of my glove or a piece of plastic, not paper, because the paper or cardboard will soak up the paint due to its porous nature.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:59
|
|
|
cool. at 25psi'ish should I be aiming for a certain ratio to thin it. Ive always been going for a milk consistency edit: matte medium, flow aid, and water? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoKJUrISnTo w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jul 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 17:15
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:cool. at 25psi'ish should I be aiming for a certain ratio to thin it. Ive always been going for a milk consistency You probably want to be slightly thinner than milk. You could buy some of the specific airbrush paints, drop them as is and or compare with what you're thinning to. I just started the airbrush thing and I went and bought my blocking colors in the air brush version of my paint range to avoid having to thin large batches of paint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 17:24
|
|
|
Anyone know where I can get oval bases like these? these specifically: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:edit: matte medium, flow aid, and water? Super 3 posted:You probably want to be slightly thinner than milk. You could buy some of the specific airbrush paints, drop them as is and or compare with what you're thinning to. Nebalebadingdong posted:Anyone know where I can get oval bases like these? I'm sure the various mdf base & building people will have some in that size & shape, I haven't looked for those myself but Oath Thread sponsor The Troll Trader is one place to check, if you're in the UK.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 17:59
|
|
|
Drake_263 posted:A colored glaze and a light drybrush with a bright silvery color (like the old Mithril SIlver/Runefang Steel paint) can give you a relatively fast and easy 'shimmery' effect. Would that be on top of a metallic basecoat of some sort? I'm going to be painting Grey Knight power weapons. I finally got a good airbrush, but doing the usual fades just seems boring now  On that topic, I finally finished building my Centurion to Dreadnought conversion:  Weapons - Dual lascannon and old-school missile launcher:  The thing has a lot of of Rogue Trader Era dreadnought DNA in it, as I unironically LOVED those things when they came out. I can objectively see they look goofy now, but man.. what can you do? Upper body is attached by a magnet and comes off for painting. Waist is obviously hugely inspired by this the Graven Games Cain conversion Pistons are from Zinge. It doesn't look quite as sharp as I wanted it, but I'm calling it done as it's part of a ETL commitment on B&C.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 19:56
|
|
|
I have liquitex airbrush medium at home so Im going to have a go with that. Ended up picking up this Golden Airbrush transparent extender which looks like it could be amazing. Its supposed to help flow etc and stop it from drying on the tip. Looks like a good generalist airbrush additive so Ill have to see how it goes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
HardCoil posted:Would that be on top of a metallic basecoat of some sort? I'm going to be painting Grey Knight power weapons. I finally got a good airbrush, but doing the usual fades just seems boring now That is some great sculpting work, man. I love the little details like the fittings on the arm sockets and the REGIS on the front of the chest.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 20:28
|
|
|
Thanks, it's supposed to say "AEGIS" though  The shoulder bits are actually a greenstuff cast from a Dreamforge Leviathan. No way I would be able to do two of those from scratch. That's really the hardest part of stuff like this, to keep things nice an symmetrical.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
Any advice for making lovely phone pics of a game in progress come out less lovely? I know how to do the basic lightbox and white balancing stuff at home, but I don't bring a lightbox and an actual camera with me to the store when playing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:39
|
|
|
Try to get nice, even lighting. I'm not sure there's much else to it than that, assuming you want to just take pictures with your phone camera. You really have to find the sweet spot for whatever place you're playing in, because different set-ups require different amounts of light, but in general you want slightly more than most people would agree is "enough" for not taking pictures.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:48
|
|
|
PantsOptional posted:Any advice for making lovely phone pics of a game in progress come out less lovely? I know how to do the basic lightbox and white balancing stuff at home, but I don't bring a lightbox and an actual camera with me to the store when playing. Your best bet is an actual camera, because a phone one isn't going to cut it--especially at that store's lighting (which is shiiiiiit).
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:59
|
|
|
Having some problems with my airbrush and I want to try and set myself up for success. I'm using Vallejo surface primer in the thing to prime some models but can't seem to get good for out of the thing. Based on searching online, I've switched up a size to my 0.5mm needle, and have tried everything from not diluting it, to a mainly thinned mixture. I've been thinking with a combination of liquitex airbrush medium and golden airbrush transparent extender. I tried 25psi and worked up to 35 (based on searching the internet). Anyone have experience with surface primer that could put me on the right track. I have a suspicion none of this is going to be a problem once I go to actual paint down the road. Running cleaner through the brush seems to flow perfectly so I don't think it's a clog out anything.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 06:12
|
|
|
Gravity or siphon feed?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 06:40
|
|
|
HardCoil posted:Ownage RT style Dreadnought
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 08:38
|
|
|
JackMann posted:That is some great sculpting work, man. I love the little details like the fittings on the arm sockets and the REGIS on the front of the chest.  But seriously that is an amazing model and I can't wait to see it painted.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 09:54
|
|
|
Drake_263 posted:I wish I could take credit for that but no, that's actually the Death Guard color scheme before they went all 'rot, vomit and pus'. Ahh, there was enough of your own touches I didn't recognize it. I was on the fence about how it looked until it was finished, (something I fret about when painting) the final result is quite good. The base is ace, too. Any particular trick to getting grass that tall to stick up, drilled a hole and stuffed the grass in?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 12:13
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Having some problems with my airbrush and I want to try and set myself up for success. Do you mean 'good force' in the bit I bolded? You probably have a clog somewhere, especially if you have let paint dry in it even for a few minutes. Take the nozzle holder and nozzle off, take the needle out and give it a good clean with airbrush thinner (actual airbrush thinner that dissolves paint a little, not homemade thinner like Les's recipe) and a paper towel. Reassemble and test with water or thinner first. Listen to make sure there's no hesitation to the spraying. If that works OK try it with very thinned down paint, just a couple of drops. Clean it out and repeat with very slightly thicker paint, repeat, repeat. If you get anything but clean, steady stream of water/thinner in the first test, you still have a dirty nozzle (most likely) or needle, give them a good clean, even let them sit in a small glass jar with cellulose thinners to completely eat away the paint, then scrub it out with a plastic bristle brush and flush with water and test again. Part of airbrushing is maintaining the cleanliness of your equipment, this first step is one of the things that can kill the enthusiasm of having an airbrush pretty quickly but if you can keep your airbrush clean and maintained you'll be fine and encouraged to keep practicing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 12:22
|
|
|
I figured I would crosspost my 6mm KoW army I put up in the Mantic thread. While not the best pictures they are better than the ones I took on my cellphone a year ago.      Here is the full album which also shows some of the terrain and the felt mat I made to go with them. http://imgur.com/a/bda12 This was my first ever attempt at 6mm.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 12:32
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Do you mean 'good force' in the bit I bolded? You probably have a clog somewhere, especially if you have let paint dry in it even for a few minutes. Take the nozzle holder and nozzle off, take the needle out and give it a good clean with airbrush thinner (actual airbrush thinner that dissolves paint a little, not homemade thinner like Les's recipe) and a paper towel. Reassemble and test with water or thinner first. Listen to make sure there's no hesitation to the spraying. If that works OK try it with very thinned down paint, just a couple of drops. Clean it out and repeat with very slightly thicker paint, repeat, repeat. Pretty meticulous about cleaning the thing but I like the idea of starting with thinner and slowly making the paint thicker. Seems like the most fool proof way to go.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 13:35
|
|
|
HardCoil posted:Thanks, it's supposed to say "AEGIS" though That dread is awesome and is what the Dreadknight should have looked like. Also you should go with Regis
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 13:46
|
|
|
SRM posted:I'm gonna admit, I wasn't sure when you first posted this guy under construction. At this point though, I think this big lug looks great! Nice mix of new and old aesthetics. I think what really put me over the edge was the old school missile launcher. What do you have in mind for a paint scheme? Grey Knights so ... mainly grey  Honestly I wasn't sure about it myself, but sometimes you just gotta go with those crazy ideas and see where they lead. I certainly learned a lot. Thanks for all the nice comments guys  w00tmonger posted:Having some problems with my airbrush and I want to try and set myself up for success. Weird, I'm using it straight in mine without thinning, with a .2 (I think, the SOTAR Fine) needle without issues. What kind of aibrush are you using? I had a LOT of issues with my ultra cheap china airbrush, both in terms of usage and cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 14:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 10:10 |
|
|
HardCoil posted:Weird, I'm using it straight in mine without thinning, with a .2 (I think, the SOTAR Fine) needle without issues. What kind of aibrush are you using? I had a LOT of issues with my ultra cheap china airbrush, both in terms of usage and cleaning. Its some gravity feed master airbrush. Mid-end to my knowledge. I mean, everything I found online was saying no thinning as well. Not really familiar enough with airbrushes to diagnose it...
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 15:34
|
|