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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I love them. You can thin them really far without ever running into problems with grainy or splotchy finish. Do you thin them when airbrushing or just go straight into the pot?
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Jul 19, 2015 00:51
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Definitely with thinner (straight airbrush medium). But properly thinned I have fewer issues with them than my actual "airbrush ready" paints, which I don't have a ton of problems with but more than the reaper.
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Jul 19, 2015 01:23
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Montana Black on Vallejo Surface Primer Montana Gold on bare restic  Montana Gold on top of Black on top of Bonesium  Montana Black on Bonesium 
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Jul 19, 2015 01:36
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Some Reaper figs. The angel has been primed for about a quarter of my life, finally got around to painting it yesterday. The other three are Bones figures, painted them all today. I 100% recommend Army Painter primer for Bones, I painted some last year with just a base layer of regular paint down and no primer and paint would rub off non-stop while handling them. Army Painter solved that problem.      NWS: Reaper naked succubus 
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Jul 19, 2015 01:38
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Why does super glue accelerator smell so good?
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Jul 19, 2015 04:21
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It smells like cancer and death.
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Jul 19, 2015 04:28
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signalnoise posted:Montana Black on Vallejo Surface Primer Is that the texture from it being so thick or is that the texture of the models? If it came out that way stop at a graffiti supply store and pick up some different caps and see what works. Personally I'd suggest a german or NY fat or a skinny/outliner at a distance.
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Jul 19, 2015 05:52
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I just used stock caps for that. I think the Gold went on a little thick, but the Black went on just as thick and kept the texture. The texture on most of it is from using a Bones model I think. I can keep testing with poo poo, I've got all kinds of caps and spare minis. Any requests for material and spray type?
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Jul 19, 2015 07:14
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Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? 
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Jul 19, 2015 07:29
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Super Waffle posted:Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? I was curious so I googled it and it seems that Montana is a paint brand with Black and Gold being particular...formulations? covering a range of colors, rather than colors themselves. I have nothing to help with the OP's quandary, just clarifying ^  ^
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Jul 19, 2015 07:36
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I've got a can of Montana Black as well as a paint marker refill (both Boston green) coming in from good ol' Dick Blick and I was going to see if it'll be a quicker way to basecoat some Salamanders Space Marines. Got any Marines to test on?
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Jul 19, 2015 07:46
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Super Waffle posted:Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? I also have no idea what is happening!
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Jul 19, 2015 08:55
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Partial Octopus posted:Whats the consensus on Reaper paints? I think they're fantastic. I've only used one triad on far but the dark elf skin triad is amazing
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Jul 19, 2015 10:19
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Super Waffle posted:Am I having a stroke or are those figures neon green and pink and not black and gold? They're blue and white, might wanna check your eyes 
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Jul 19, 2015 11:09
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Pierzak posted:They're blue and white, might wanna check your eyes Hmm... There is only one way to decide. Facebook polls.
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Jul 19, 2015 12:27
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Pyrolocutus posted:I was curious so I googled it and it seems that Montana is a paint brand with Black and Gold being particular...formulations? covering a range of colors, rather than colors themselves. Correct. Gold is an acrylic spraypaint that has low pressure and stands out for surface adhesion. You can use it on pretty much any surface you want. It's also CFC free! Black is not acrylic-based and dries incredibly fast, making it ideal for cold weather spraypainting. Both are available in something like 200 colors for around 8 bucks a can at dick blick, and take a wide variety of caps. Unfortunately though they do not take well to decanting, so brush-on is a no-go. I've tried several methods and you simply cannot make it work. Paint markers are also great. The Montana paint marker line takes regular acrylic paint like a champ (great for futzing around on terrain) as well as having a great lineup of stock colors. Montana Black ink is alcohol-based and incredibly fast drying, but very much like a candy paint. The exception to this is the Strong Black ink, which I use to paint the rims of my bases.
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Jul 19, 2015 13:31
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BlackIronHeart posted:I've got a can of Montana Black as well as a paint marker refill (both Boston green) coming in from good ol' Dick Blick and I was going to see if it'll be a quicker way to basecoat some Salamanders Space Marines. Got any Marines to test on? I don't have space marines, but I found some sprues that are Actual Plastic. Gold  Black 
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Jul 19, 2015 13:41
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The black definitely looks like a smoother finish, but personally I probably wouldn't use either. Also, first time converting nurgle stuff - does anyone have tips or tricks? Currently trying to make the wings that came with the model ragged but its a bit tough with the thick plastic. This is what I have so far. 
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Jul 19, 2015 13:49
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ijyt posted:The black definitely looks like a smoother finish, but personally I probably wouldn't use either. Agreed, it is a very poor substitute for an airbrush. Also if you have an airbrush you can color match. I do use spraypaint for terrain though.
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Jul 19, 2015 14:02
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ijyt posted:The black definitely looks like a smoother finish, but personally I probably wouldn't use either. It's looking good so far. If you want to do pustules, I find that taking a plastic hollow rod or really small drinking straw (really, any suitably sized tube) works best for that. Put down a glob of greenstuff, push the tube into it, then twist into a circle and pull off. You'll have a glob right there with minimal effort, and lets you make a bunch of them all at once! Just spread the sides out with a modeling tool a bit for a more natural transition. Also, this: http://fantasygames.com.pl/blog/nurgle-daemonic-skin/
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Jul 19, 2015 14:41
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That's loving gross, I love it. Also that straw/tube tip is a great idea, sounds a lot easier than what I'm doing. Thanks!
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Jul 19, 2015 14:45
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It lives!   Also, the camera on my new smartphone is really unforgiving when it comes to details. Or the goddamned varnish starting to crack.
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Jul 19, 2015 18:06
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Varnish crackling is a pain, same thing happened to my Joan of Arc. I've started leaving models aside for a day after gloss coating them, in order to let them completely dry. More Icestorm models finished:     The vaguely Pan-O design on Leeloo's boobplate is just to cover up a fairly major brush-slip that I couldn't satisfactorily colour match over. It looks a bit silly in retrospect, but I couldn't pull off the proper logo without it looking really squint.
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Jul 20, 2015 00:10
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Stuff I painted this weekend: I have the absolute worst lighting at home without taking it all outside on a clear day.
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Jul 20, 2015 00:13
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OneTrueBru posted:More Icestorm models finished: Please tell me these are larger than 25mm scale so I can feel slightly less jealous.
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Jul 20, 2015 01:03
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This is a good page, full of good poo poo. Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Jul 20, 2015 |
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Jul 20, 2015 08:18
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Cross post from the oath thread    
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Jul 20, 2015 08:21
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So I tried to do some mud effects again Old attempt: Moola posted:So I tried creating a homemade mud mixture instead of buying GW's pot'o mud ( New attempts!:       Also tried a cavalry base for KoW    Much happier with the consistency, and looks less like a chocolate brownie so far Thoughts, comments, suggestions????
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Jul 20, 2015 15:18
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DO NOT GIVE GW MONEY! 
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Seriously, what are those bases made out of? Smooth off the rim and paint it black, that will frame the base and make it look less weird. I'd also go for a less saturated brown. You also need to paint the stones. They'll look less like nuts on chocolate.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:27
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Looks delicious again, good job chef
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Jul 20, 2015 15:32
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Yeah, I would agree that the biggest contributor to the chocolate brownie effect is that you're pulling the texture around the entire edge of the base instead of just on top. Clean edges would go a long way. I dunno if loose stones are suitable for a big mud puddle. Some stray grass and twigs and leaves would look a lot more natural instead, I think.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:...Smooth off the rim and paint it black... I thought you were kidding. Those bases don't sit flat at all, they are drenched in that stuff.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:34
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will blow your mind.
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Seriously, what are those bases made out of? yeah I think black rim is the solution. These still look tasty as gently caress. Mottle the color a little bit maybe to make it less consistent? otherwise I really like it.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:39
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Skarsnik posted:Looks delicious again, good job chef God drat it! quote:smooth dem bases Yeah I was trying that effect where people let the basing material go over the lip, like on a movement tray, like this  But I really dont like the outcome and will definitely just go to the edges next time
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Jul 20, 2015 15:40
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w00tmonger posted:yeah I think black rim is the solution. These still look tasty as gently caress. Mottle the color a little bit maybe to make it less consistent? I'm probably gonna drybrush a lighter colour to create the effect of the raised mud drying, while the lower mud is still wet from puddles etc Also some patches of grass etc
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Jul 20, 2015 15:41
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Moola posted:I'm probably gonna drybrush a lighter colour to create the effect of the raised mud drying, while the lower mud is still wet from puddles etc Your rocks also look like crushed peanuts which is contributing to the delicious look.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:45
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Yeah there are very few basing scenarios where you can get away with just plunking those tan-colored rocks down without painting over them. I know this from experience, having shamefully based my original models in them. I'd honestly recommend going over the whole with with a dark mud color, lightning up the surface areas, touching up each rock and maybe exposing some rock-color toward the top (maybe dark grey?), and then going over the whole thing (minus the tops of the rocks) afterward with some water-effect or gloss varnish.
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Jul 20, 2015 16:05
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Moola posted:I'm probably gonna drybrush a lighter colour to create the effect of the raised mud drying, while the lower mud is still wet from puddles etc that would do it. Im thinking that example works well because its got a bit of variation to it. flock isnt a static color etc. Might not help that it looks pretty shiny in comparison to the soft/dull flock as well (not really an expert though)
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Jul 20, 2015 16:11
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Another option to break up future bases might be adding the odd puddle. Cut a small hole through the base, glue a bit of plasticard underneath and smooth the edges with greenstuff, then paint it as normal. Once the base is finished, come back and fill the recess with some appropriately-tinted gloss varnish or water effects goop. It'll add some irregularity to the surface and hopefully make things look a bit less delicious.
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Jul 20, 2015 16:21
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OneTrueBru posted:Another option to break up future bases might be adding the odd puddle. Defeinitely gonna try this on my next base! Meanwhile I browned the rocks and now it looks like chocolate cake  
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Jul 20, 2015 16:41
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