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I love my pythons but have been thinking more and more about getting a boa. I really like the anery and ghost boas. I have an Animal Plastics 3' x 2' x 18" cage open so I'm guessing a boa could live in it at least a few years. My problem is that I really can not untangle what is what in boas right now. Any suggestions? This will be a pet / display animal so the better looking and he more calm the better. I am willing to pay around $300 and less for a good looking and well behaved boa. 'm not desperate for more snakes but the more I look at boas the more I think I want one. Especially one less of a spaz than carpets!
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Jul 19, 2015 01:45
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I'd always heard carpets are only spazzy when they're juvs and tame down a bit. I've been interested in a snake forever but wanted something with the handle-ability of a ball but at least somewhat more active. Carpets can get pretty big right? Max out at like 9 feet?
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Jul 19, 2015 03:48
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So apparently this image has been going around the internet. Yup, nothing wrong with that method at all. Good on them for such an informative image. The bottom snake is a king cobra.
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Jul 19, 2015 22:54
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Carpets mostly calm down. I got tagged by my big male this week who is the exception to that. He's about 7 feet. Jungles, IJs stay smaller like 7 feet and coastals can get to be 9-10'. They are really slim snakes though. A 10 foot carpet will weigh a lot less than say a 10 foot boa.
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Jul 20, 2015 01:42
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ZarathustraFollower posted:So apparently this image has been going around the internet. POISONOUS
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Jul 20, 2015 17:06
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Poisonous vs venomous is a huge pet peeve of mine 
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Jul 20, 2015 17:34
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It's gotten so bad that a part of my brain immediately triggers into corrective mode whenever someone uses the word poisonous even when it's actually appropriate.
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Jul 20, 2015 17:36
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Uh, isn't that "non-poisonous" snake a king cobra? Edit: Somehow I totally missed the part where it actually says that in the post. On the plus side Whooo I was right. SuperTwo fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jul 20, 2015 |
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Jul 20, 2015 17:39
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SuperTwo posted:Uh, isn't that "non-poisonous" snake a king cobra? I mean technically it's true.
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Jul 20, 2015 17:49
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Woah I had no idea my royal python was This must be Poe's law in action right? Out of curiosity what is the snake at the top?
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Jul 20, 2015 17:59
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freelop posted:Woah I had no idea my royal python was Some sort of pitviper  I've heard so many people here say those things I bet it isn't a joke. We even have elapidae here! I didn't even care enough to mention the venomous/poisonous thing. I gave up that fight a long time ago. Although there are poisonous snakes (like a handful of local pops of gartersnakes).
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Jul 20, 2015 22:49
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Hi, My 3.5 year old female (according to reptile shop anyway) corn snake (about 4.5ft, 675g) is acting a bit odd. Or maybe not! Since we got her last December, she's been a bit on and off food, although I've been able to rationalise it up until now. - Didn't eat from December (when we got her) to March - so, winter fasting - Cautiously ate a couple of times in March, overnight - Stopped again end of March, then shed early April - so, in blue / shedding fast - Ate a few times with more enthusiasm in April, then stopped again, and starting exhibiting more active behaviour in the evenings, and trying to escape the viv - rubbing nose on glass - so, breeding season behaviour - Behaviour calmed down (snake would still come out and about but didn't seem bothered about escaping) and appetite / feeding response ramped up approx mid May - so, breeding season over - Stopped feeding again and started hiding a lot around end of May, went into blue and shed around 7th June - so, in blue / shedding fast - All through the rest of June and the first 2 weeks of July feeding response was excellent, food would be taken in minutes regardless of whether we'd handled that day, or had the lights on, or off, or whatever. As before, snake was perfectly happy to come out for a wander in the evening but didn't seem bothered about getting out. - Last successful feed on 11th July was the most rapid response to a feed I'd ever seen her do, in the mouth within 30 seconds. - The week after the 11th July, she started exhibiting behaviour similar to breeding season - very active in the evening and rubbing nose on the corners and where the glass doors join, and climbing up to the air vents looking for a way out. She then refused food on the 19th, and she's still trying to escape as of last night so I doubt she'll eat this weekend based on her behaviour. In terms of setup nothing has changed for a while, I have an infrared heat bulb statted at 70 degrees which is just to keep the chill off when the room gets cold in the winter. As it's summer at the moment (I'm in the UK), the bulb hardly ever comes on, the room is warm enough. This is in conjunction with a heat mat kept at around 84-86 degrees that she uses happily. Substrate is Snake Life which I switched to from aspen a while ago (she's had plenty of successful feeds with Snake Life). I cleaned the viv out last weekend (using the same reptile friendly cleaner as always), I had a thought that maybe it was too clean and didn't smell like home which put her off her food the day after, but she started exhibiting the 'trying to escape' behaviour during the week before I'd done the cleaning anyway. I guess what I'm asking, is it possible for her to go into a second breeding season? Apart from the time she was in blue, she had quite a lot of successful feeds since she stopped trying to escape around mid-May. Thanks
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Jul 23, 2015 14:48
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She might be looking for a place to lay her eggs. She'll lay infertile ones (slugs) even if she hasn't bred. Try offering her a laying box. Use something like a plastic container with a hole cut in the lid and a bit of damp substrate, like moss, inside.
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Jul 26, 2015 00:42
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I'm getting a 10 year old male ball python from my from a friend soon. I'm also getting a 55 gallon tank to hold him in, but it has a mesh top. What I'm wondering is what is the best way to keep moisture in the tank? Also what is my best bet for humidifying the tank air?
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Jul 26, 2015 02:40
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Carthoris posted:I'm getting a 10 year old male ball python from my from a friend soon. I'm also getting a 55 gallon tank to hold him in, but it has a mesh top. What I'm wondering is what is the best way to keep moisture in the tank? Also what is my best bet for humidifying the tank air? I use something called Refliectix on top and put a flap of duct tape around the edges so there's a pretty good seal. Some people use aluminum fool wrapped around cardboard; some cut vinyl or plastic sheet to put on top of the lid.  I'd try to make the new setup as similar as possible to what that old snake is used to, eg same substrate, same hides, same feeding schedule, same UTH temperature. This sprayer is great for misting and cage cleaning and a bunch of other uses. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/spray-maker-manual-pressure-sprayer-0593837p.html#.VbS48vn4-M8 $10 (or less) at hardware store in gardening section; $15 at pet store in a "For reptiles" box 
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Jul 26, 2015 11:34
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Thanks a lot, that helps out. He's going to be in the same terrarium he's in now with all the same stuff. The only things that may change are I might add some reinforcement to the top to make it slightly more cat resistant.
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Jul 28, 2015 14:07
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Hi friends. My partner and I just got a young (not sure exact age, but less than a year) ball python+terrarium and equipment from someone who was moving. We just got her set up but I want to make sure we're taking care of her properly. Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Should I post a picture to critique the setup? I just want to make sure shes safe and happy 
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Jul 31, 2015 19:25
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Post a picture if you want, or just describe the setup. Mainly you want to be sure the snake has a good temperature gradient, meaning that one side of the enclosure should be warmer than the other. I aim for 82 on the cold side and 89 on the hot side. I use a temp gun but you can use any thermometer with a probe. A cheap indoor/outdoor or aquarium thermometer would work fine, but not the kind you stick on the wall of the enclosure. You want to monitor the surface temperature, not the temp of the air in the enclosure. The preferred heating method is heat tape or a mat under the enclosure. Ball pythons do not enjoy lights. They are not basking animals. UTH (under tank heat) sources, even those cheap mats from the pet store, need to be regulated because they will get way too hot if they're running full blast. A thermostat is ideal but you can get by with a plug-in lamp dimmer, using it to adjust the heat down to an appropriate level. Humidity is important too. If you can't keep the enclosure humid enough, the snake will have difficulty shedding. Around 60% is good. You can raise humidity by misting, switching to a larger water bowl, using a damper substrate (cypress, jungle mix, etc. as opposed to dry aspen or paper), or adding a humid hide filled with damp moss when you see a shed coming. Maintaining proper temperature and humidity can be very difficult if you're using an aquarium with a screen lid. Which is one reason why I prefer to use tubs. Apart from that, be sure the snake has at least two hides, one on the cold side and one on the hot side. They're most comfortable in hides that are very snug, with a single opening. A lot of people try to set up ball pythons as display animals with lots of cage decorations, but a happy ball python will usually spend the majority of its time in a hide and you won't see it anyway. Cage decorations like branches, fake plants, etc. might look nice but they'll make cleaning a real pain in the rear end. You're better off just keeping it simple. snake and bake fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 15:04
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Samila posted:Post a picture if you want, or just describe the setup. Mainly you want to be sure the snake has a good temperature gradient, meaning that one side of the enclosure should be warmer than the other. I aim for 82 on the cold side and 89 on the hot side. I use a temp gun but you can use any thermometer with a probe. A cheap indoor/outdoor or aquarium thermometer would work fine, but not the kind you stick on the wall of the enclosure. You want to monitor the surface temperature, not the temp of the air in the enclosure. We got our terrarium with the snake from the previous owners. Its a 40? gallon with a mesh top and a heat mat underneath one half. Currently shes got 1 proper hide on the hot side, a set of vines going across the tank for climbing, and a semi-hide on the cold side. We're planning on sticking a proper hide on the cold side soon, though. Our biggest problem is actually keeping it cool right now, since air temps have been around 30+c and our apartment isn't air conditioned. Would replacing the mesh top with a solid top help in terms of being able to cool it down? We've just been putting a cool cloth over the top to keep the humidity up and hopefully keep the temps down.
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Aug 2, 2015 23:13
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A mesh top will keep it cooler as there will be more air movement, but it will make keeping the humidity up a bit harder. The cool cloth sounds like a good idea, so long as it is keeping the temperatures down a bit. Could you move the viv to a cooler room in the house?
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Aug 3, 2015 16:50
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ZarathustraFollower posted:So apparently this image has been going around the internet. This is dumb. That said, if you're in the continental US every native venomous snake with the exception of the coral snake is some sort of slit-pupil pit viper. The coral is pretty easy to recognize with the old "red touch yellow kill a fellow" rhyme. It'd be nice if whoever made that actually put forth a bit more effort since it might discourage folks from shooting or shoveling a poor corn or water snake under the false impression that it's a copperhead or water moccasin.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:29
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Potential BFF posted:This is dumb. That said, if you're in the continental US every native venomous snake with the exception of the coral snake is some sort of slit-pupil pit viper. The coral is pretty easy to recognize with the old "red touch yellow kill a fellow" rhyme. It'd be nice if whoever made that actually put forth a bit more effort since it might discourage folks from shooting or shoveling a poor corn or water snake under the false impression that it's a copperhead or water moccasin.
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Aug 4, 2015 04:08
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Knormal posted:I was in the reptile room of a zoo once when I heard a father tell his kids "Now remember, red touches yellow, you're alright fellow. Red touches black, run away jack." He said this while looking at a big display discussing coral snakes and their mimics. Seems like a problem that could solve itself.
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Aug 4, 2015 05:37
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The beardie I'm taking care of for my mom's school hasn't pooped in like a week and has been staying in her hide most of the time and I'm getting concerned now. 
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Aug 4, 2015 14:43
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Bollock Monkey posted:A mesh top will keep it cooler as there will be more air movement, but it will make keeping the humidity up a bit harder. The cool cloth sounds like a good idea, so long as it is keeping the temperatures down a bit. Could you move the viv to a cooler room in the house? We live in an apartment, there is no cooler room in the house.  At least the heat spike is passing, she's seemed a lot happier now that the air temp has been down to ~24-25.
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Aug 4, 2015 14:50
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So I'm gonna move forward and get a skink in the next couple months. Anybody know of a good place to order a Cage for fairly cheap? Best I've seen so far is from PVC Cages. I can get 4x2x1 for $225.
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Aug 5, 2015 22:53
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Another month, another batch of normal ball pythons and OH gently caress who incubated those loving eggs. YOU loving rear end in a top hat STOP MAKING NORMAL UGLY BEARDIES NO ONE WANTS THEM AHHHHH Anybody want a gator Cless Alvein That's about what a new plastic cage is going to cost from just about anyone. Check Animal Plastics out, maybe that will be a little bit cheaper?
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Aug 7, 2015 22:46
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I ended up getting the one from PVC. Animal Plastics was slightly cheaper, but I didn't like the design as much plus I'd be waiting ???? to receive it since it takes them a while to create each tank. Anyway, I'm talking Donna from Captive Bred Excellence for a babby Northern BTS. Gonna have them hold it until my tank comes in or maybe I'll set up a temp sterlite tub to house the little tubbo in until I get the permanent digs.
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Aug 7, 2015 23:11
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Gammatron 64 posted:The beardie I'm taking care of for my mom's school hasn't pooped in like a week and has been staying in her hide most of the time and I'm getting concerned now. She might just be a bit stressed from moving. If she doesn't poop soon you could try giving her a bath. Riker hates baths and always poops in his to escape.
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Aug 8, 2015 03:53
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PK posted:She might just be a bit stressed from moving. If she doesn't poop soon you could try giving her a bath. Riker hates baths and always poops in his to escape. Update: I gave her a bath Tuesday and she's been pooping the past couple days. I've had her in my apartment for about 2 months now and she got over the initial move stress in about a week. However, for the past few days she's been acting very lethargic and not super alert. She doesn't get handled much as school and doesn't like it. I took her out today and she didn't even try to fight me and run off. She also wasn't very interested in superworms or crickets today, and that has me a little worried. I'm gonna have this lizard for about 2-3 more weeks before school starts. I really hope to God she doesn't die between then and now. Maybe I worry too much, I dunno.
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Aug 8, 2015 04:09
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Gammatron 64 posted:Update: I gave her a bath Tuesday and she's been pooping the past couple days. I've had her in my apartment for about 2 months now and she got over the initial move stress in about a week. She might be starting to brumate (hibernation for reptiles)? Riker, my beardie, started brumating at the end of Sept last year and napped until January.
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Aug 8, 2015 18:53
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PK posted:She might be starting to brumate (hibernation for reptiles)? Riker, my beardie, started brumating at the end of Sept last year and napped until January. Maybe. I figured it was a little early for that though as it's still August. Then again, it's winter in Australia now.
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Aug 8, 2015 20:28
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Samila posted:Post a picture if you want, or just describe the setup. Mainly you want to be sure the snake has a good temperature gradient, meaning that one side of the enclosure should be warmer than the other. I aim for 82 on the cold side and 89 on the hot side. I use a temp gun but you can use any thermometer with a probe. A cheap indoor/outdoor or aquarium thermometer would work fine, but not the kind you stick on the wall of the enclosure. You want to monitor the surface temperature, not the temp of the air in the enclosure. With only one snake, it doesn't really take much longer during the monthly cleaning to wash plants and decor along with the hides and water bowl. I put everything into a plastic tub and clean them all at the same time. 2 hides, water dish, 3 pieces of wood, small piece of slate, a few plastic plants. Clean that stuff and the enclosure while waiting for the coconut husk bricks to absorb water. The whole process takes around an hour, once per month.  And since the snake spends most of his time hidden, might as well have a nice, colourful enclosure to look at. Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 14:06
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The letting agency needs to re-do all the wiring in my flat, and while I don't think the electrical contractors would grass me in for having a snake (it's a no pets flat) I don't want to take the risk - will my milk snake be ok through the day if his vivarium's stashed away in a cupboard, minus the heating mat? It'll just be from approx 9-5, for two days.
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Aug 9, 2015 14:07
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Yoshimo posted:The letting agency needs to re-do all the wiring in my flat, and while I don't think the electrical contractors would grass me in for having a snake (it's a no pets flat) I don't want to take the risk - will my milk snake be ok through the day if his vivarium's stashed away in a cupboard, minus the heating mat? It'll just be from approx 9-5, for two days. As long as he's not digesting he'll be fine.
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Aug 9, 2015 15:37
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So, I've been a bad tortoise owner. Flynn the Greek tortoise has been living in his baby bin far too long. A combination of poverty and laziness left him squashed in there. I'm a [strike]little[/strike] lot embarrassed but here are before pics for reference. Please excuse the mess as I didn't bother cleaning up since he was already in the new habitat. The bin is on its way to the trash. The hole in the side is from UV light damage.   I finally got my poo poo together and built him a turtle table. I'm sure PI will tell me where I've gone wrong. New hotness:  
Crab Ran fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 16:05
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Binary Logic posted:With only one snake, it doesn't really take much longer during the monthly cleaning to wash plants and decor along with the hides and water bowl. I put everything into a plastic tub and clean them all at the same time.
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Aug 9, 2015 18:30
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You'll need to use some kind of soap. Dish soap or a 1:1 solution of white vinegar and water will work. I use veterinary-grade, nontoxic F10SC (disinfectant) and F10SCXD (disinfectant + cleaner). Because I take this poo poo way too seriously. 
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Aug 9, 2015 20:49
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Hazo posted:Do you use any sort of soap or bleach or do you just hand rinse everything? I've been maintaining a dwarf frog enclosure by putting everything into an industrial sink and just using the scouring side of a dish sponge to scrub off the algae. For the gravel, though, I put it in a colander and add a couple drops of hand soap before thoroughly rinsing it. Seems to be working well so far and I'd like to see if the same applies to the larger herps (I'm looking to get a snake display soon). I put everything in a tub, and put that in bathtub, and fill the plastic tub with water. Drain. Then spray each item with Healthy Habitat, wipe down, rinse with water, wipe down to remove any residue, rinse again with water and leave to dry. While that's drying I clean enclosure similar method (rinse with water, clean with HH, rinse with water) and then put in fresh substrate. http://naturalchemistry.com/en/pet-home/products/detail/healthy-habitat/ Might pick up F10 next time I'm at reptile store and use that when I run out of the Healthy Habitat but at 1 cleaning every 4 weeks (or when he poops/sheds), this bottle is going to last for several more months. Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 12:23
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BEHOLD! I have moved and I have a Proper Snake Room! Probe extenders on order, soon the cords will be all nice and hidden.
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Aug 11, 2015 18:42
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