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I don't know what came over me but I decided this morning that I want to trade my Mustang for a similarly priced / year / mileage Mini Cooper. Some research on kbb & craigslist is telling me that this is a realistic goal. My only concern is that I've heard Mini's are notoriously unreliable so I have a few questions: -I'm mostly targeting 2012 and later with generally around 50k miles or less, what issues should I consider huge red flags -What are smaller issues that I can get nitpicky with -What are issues that I'll likely encounter down the road. I'm mostly going to be using this for occasional city driving. To get an idea of my current usage my current Mustang is ~3 years old w/ 27k miles on it. -Am I really dumb for even considering this?
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Jul 20, 2015 19:56
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My lease on my '14 Mazda3 hatch (great car btw) isn't up for a couple years, but I'm bored and curious about fully electric vehicles. Context: I'm a person who doesn't care much about driving; does not drive out of the city, that's what airports are for; and I probably do 7k miles a year normally. Live in Las Vegas, NV. - Generally speaking are any of them okay value for money yet for the A->B work commuter, or do you still end up losing out financially, in trade for having a nerd toy/being an environmental smuglord? (Note: I am considering one next for the 'nerd toy' factor so logic isn't fully in play for me if I'm honest) - If so, are any of them particularly standout in the <$45k range (so basically not the Tesla Model S)? The only one I can think of offhand is the Nissan Leaf, though I'm sure there's lots more, I just haven't kept up - Any guesses how much full-blast air conditioning, which is basically required in the throes of a Las Vegas summer, would reduce the advertised range of an EV? - Again discounting the Tesla Model S, do they generally pass the highway on-ramp test? (Anyone else who lives in Las Vegas would recognize this as "Can you get to 65mph by the end of the 215W onramp at Eastern"  )
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Jul 21, 2015 01:03
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Ciaphas posted:My lease on my '14 Mazda3 hatch (great car btw) isn't up for a couple years, but I'm bored and curious about fully electric vehicles. Context: I'm a person who doesn't care much about driving; does not drive out of the city, that's what airports are for; and I probably do 7k miles a year normally. Live in Las Vegas, NV. 1. Yes, as long as you commute is under say 50mi roundtrip (if you have a charger at work, double this.) The Fiat 500e in particular is a lease bargain. I wouldn't buy (v. lease) any full EV because in 5 years the technology will be so much better and the way the tax credits apply to EVs can make them a pretty good value. 2. Yes, the leaf is probably the worst bargain at the moment actually. The 500e is a great simply because of the value for money at the moment. Please note that this will changfe a lot in a couple of years. 3. A lot. 4. Yes. Max torque at 0 rpm can make them pretty zippy. Pretty much every car is if people weren't so chicken about pressing the skinny pedal to the floor. edit: Every modern car nm fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 06:47
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Thanks for the info!nm posted:Pretty much every car is if people weren't so chicken about pressing the skinny pedal to the floor.  That's as far as my concerns about car power go, though
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Jul 21, 2015 06:51
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Ciaphas posted:Thanks for the info! An 8 year old car is not a "modern car." edit: Welp, forgot to write "modern car" in my original post. Most electric cars I've driven are pretty zippy up to about 65, though they have pretty low top end power. The one I'd avoid is the smart.
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Jul 21, 2015 06:54
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Any thoughts on road noise between these cars? I like small cars (with 200+ hp) for small garage reasons and drive some crappy roads between home and work. Acura RSX (2002, current car) Acura TSX BMW xx? Mazda 3 Infiniti G35/37 Volkswagen Jetta (wouldn't buy, but I had it as a rental car, so it's a data point) I wish I had a giant garage and could just buy giant land yachts like the Buick's I used to have, but for now 185" is about the limit. Some of those cars are longer than my limit, but I could "park carefully" if necessary. If anyone could point me to a website with dB ratings for cars, that would be awesome. Especially if I could additionally filter by car length.
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Jul 22, 2015 02:06
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Buying a car tomorrow - the dealer said "absolutely not" when I asked him to fax the paperwork over before I sign it, mainly so legal could look at it to make sure there was no red flags. Was this an unreasonable request? We negotiated on him giving me the paperwork at the dealership then letting me fax it over to legal once I get there. The dealer seemed very taken aback that I wanted a lawyer to look over the paperwork before I signed it, even after I explained that I always have someone look over the paperwork before I sign it. What's the rationale of the dealer not wanting me to see the paperwork before I get there? I mean I put down the down payment for the car, waited days for it to get shipped here.... diadem fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 02:27
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diadem posted:Buying a car tomorrow - the dealer said "absolutely not" when I asked him to fax the paperwork over before I sign it, mainly so legal could look at it to make sure there was no red flags. Was this an unreasonable request? We negotiated on him giving me the paperwork at the dealership then letting me fax it over to legal once I get there. Find a new dealer that will let you see the paperwork beforehand. "Absolutely not" is such a bullshit response to pretty much any request as a customer...
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Jul 22, 2015 02:34
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Internet Explorer posted:Find a new dealer that will let you see the paperwork beforehand. "Absolutely not" is such a bullshit response to pretty much any request as a customer... What about the 1k deposit?
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Jul 22, 2015 02:35
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I didn't see any mention of a 1k deposit. What are you putting a deposit on exactly? A down payment, or a deposit on the car itself? If it's a deposit on the car itself, run away screaming, unless they are ordering you something new and super obscure. Even then I'm not sure I'd pay anything.
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Jul 22, 2015 02:37
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Internet Explorer posted:I didn't see any mention of a 1k deposit. What are you putting a deposit on exactly? A down payment, or a deposit on the car itself? If it's a deposit on the car itself, run away screaming, unless they are ordering you something new and super obscure. Even then I'm not sure I'd pay anything. He needed to get the car from another dealership. BMW M228i x drive with Tech Package, Premium, Lighting, Tech MSRP $47,150. He needed a $1k deposit to get it from the other dealership. "2015 228x drive coupe Mineral White/Black leather Cold Weather M Sport Package Drivers Assistance Lighting Package Premium Package Technology Package Brushed Aluminum Trim Lease for $2500 due at start $540 per month includes sales tax" For clarity the 2.5k wasn't a down payment, it was all the fees and whatnot. But the description wasn't written down. The 1k deposit went towards the $2.5k.
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Jul 22, 2015 02:45
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OGDanDogg posted:Any thoughts on road noise between these cars? I like small cars (with 200+ hp) for small garage reasons and drive some crappy roads between home and work. Buick Regal turbo would be a good choice.
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Jul 22, 2015 03:06
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diadem posted:He needed to get the car from another dealership. BMW M228i x drive with Tech Package, Premium, Lighting, Tech MSRP $47,150. He needed a $1k deposit to get it from the other dealership. "2015 228x drive coupe Mineral White/Black leather Cold Weather M Sport Package Drivers Assistance Lighting Package Premium Package Technology Package Brushed Aluminum Trim Lease for $2500 due at start $540 per month includes sales tax" Goddamn never give a dealer money before you sign poo poo.
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Jul 22, 2015 03:07
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Necc0 posted:I don't know what came over me but I decided this morning that I want to trade my Mustang for a similarly priced / year / mileage Mini Cooper. Some research on kbb & craigslist is telling me that this is a realistic goal. My only concern is that I've heard Mini's are notoriously unreliable so I have a few questions: The Mini is a packaging nightmare. Everything fits, but god forbid something goes wrong. The power steering pumps go bad on them like clockwork and it's like $700 just for the part; no price on your time or tears that will be shed.
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Jul 22, 2015 04:59
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diadem posted:For clarity the 2.5k wasn't a down payment, it was all the fees and whatnot. But the description wasn't written down. The 1k deposit went towards the $2.5k. You gave a dealer money before you signed anything and didn't even get anything in writing as to what it was for.  For future reference, don't do that. The deposit or whatever other horseshit they decide to call it is to make you feel trapped into buying the car so when you do things like "ask to run the paperwork by a lawyer" they tell you no. Which if they're shady enough to take your money hostage is probably because there's something really shady in the paperwork.
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Jul 22, 2015 14:23
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Phone posted:The Mini is a packaging nightmare. Everything fits, but god forbid something goes wrong. If my trade-in goes smoothly I'll be coming out ~$6k ahead when everything is said and done. I'll make a mental note to stash a couple grand for when things inevitably break. Thanks
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Jul 22, 2015 14:50
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diadem posted:He needed to get the car from another dealership. BMW M228i x drive with Tech Package, Premium, Lighting, Tech MSRP $47,150. He needed a $1k deposit to get it from the other dealership. "2015 228x drive coupe Mineral White/Black leather Cold Weather M Sport Package Drivers Assistance Lighting Package Premium Package Technology Package Brushed Aluminum Trim Lease for $2500 due at start $540 per month includes sales tax" In addition, the guy is straight up fuckin lying to you. Dealers trade cars for free all the time. Never put money down on a new car. They come from factories and one that is identical to your *special snowflake* build can be poo poo out of Leipzig and on the dealer's lot in 9-12 weeks. You can possibly put money down on a numbers-matching drophead E-type but if you do so make sure the deposit is covered by some kind of documentation that includes what happens if you decide to back out of the deal (hint: you get your money back). What fees are covered by the $2.5k? You're in Greater Boston, what dealer is this?
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Jul 22, 2015 15:06
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:In addition, the guy is straight up fuckin lying to you. Dealers trade cars for free all the time. Never put money down on a new car. They come from factories and one that is identical to your *special snowflake* build can be poo poo out of Leipzig and on the dealer's lot in 9-12 weeks. You can possibly put money down on a numbers-matching drophead E-type but if you do so make sure the deposit is covered by some kind of documentation that includes what happens if you decide to back out of the deal (hint: you get your money back). I don't want to reply with the dealer name until I make sure my number aren't off. I didn't end up signing just yet, because i wanted to look over the papers. From my perspective, if someone screws me, I'll pay three times that amount to get my money back. That means if there's $300 in hidden fees, then I'll just eat it. Right now it looks like there is much more than that, but I'll need to run the numbers a few times before running it by legal then confronting the dealer as to where the mixup is (if the numbers are in fact as off from what i was told they are). A few of the numbers that are off seem to have originated after a some levels of indirection, but one brazen example is a good chunk of the $2.5k going to "cap cost reduction" - which to my naive self sounds exactly like a down payment to me, which is something that the dealer was clear wouldn't be the case. Then again, that's what legal's for. As for the 9-12 weeks, the rates he quoted me for a 2015 lease vs the rates for a 2016 lease were way off. The rationale is that the lease deals for 2016 weren't offered yet, hence the disparity. For example, there was a $500 feature I wanted that would have cost $11k over the life of the lease should I get it from a 2016. Of course, it's possible they are lying to me... but I need to do research first so I don't commit labile if there's something I'm missing. diadem fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 00:21
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diadem posted:I don't want to reply with the dealer name until I make sure my number aren't off. I didn't end up signing just yet, because i wanted to look over the papers. An example of what I need to do more research on is the "Rent charge." I'm looking at $15,196 deprecation with a charge of $4,188, which is around a 16% APR (instead of the 4.5% APR that the sample leases seem to have). Clearly I'm missing something here. edit: AH! Money Factor × (Total Cap Cost + Residual). I thought I was paying against the depreciation of the car. Edit2: Let's work backwards form the BMW site to see if this is right.... Total Cap: 34095 Residual: 22628 Depreciation: 11467 Total monthly payments: 12564 Now we we remove the deprecation and get 1097 Which means MONEY_FACTOR * (34095 + 22628) = 1097 0.0193395976940571 Money factor... So.... Going back to my car with that money factor.. Total Cap: 43958.25 Residual: 28761.50 Depreciation: 15196.75 Money Factor: 0.0193395976940571 (43958.25 + 28761.50) * 0.0193395976940571 or 72719.75 * 0.0193395976940571 = 1,406 Which is *STILL* way off A money factor of 0.0575982453185001 vs 0.0193395976940571. This is almost three times higher than advertised on the BMW site.... Is my above math off (do I have to cube these numbers or something since there are 3 years.. making it 1.7% and 45%)? It seems pretty simple stuff if the equation is right. I mean that's pretty freaking brazen to overcharge if it is... diadem fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 00:29
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go research BMW leasing info on Bimmerfest forums. You should put $0 down as cap cost reduction (under the guise of "down payment") but make sure to max out the 7 Multiple Security Deposits to get the lease amount lower (you get interest on the deposits as well as them all returned at the end of lease).
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Jul 23, 2015 00:52
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How are you committing libel if you go to them and say hey, I changed my mind, give me my $1,000 back? (you should do this, by the way)
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Jul 23, 2015 01:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:How are you committing libel if you go to them and say hey, I changed my mind, give me my $1,000 back? I think he meant it more as if he posted the dealers name/location/etc and then poo poo talked them. Not so much as asking for his $1000 back, which he should do. Then go to another dealership and give them his money and get exactly what he wants and not deal with this bullshit he's going through now.
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Jul 23, 2015 01:30
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100% Dundee posted:I think he meant it more as if he posted the dealers name/location/etc and then poo poo talked them. Not so much as asking for his $1000 back, which he should do. Then go to another dealership and give them his money and get exactly what he wants and not deal with this bullshit he's going through now. What Dundee said is what I meant by not wanting to commit libel.
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Jul 23, 2015 01:41
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Can I interest you on a lease on a Nissan Altima? Or perhaps a P-p-p-p-powerbook?
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Jul 23, 2015 04:29
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diadem posted:What Dundee said is what I meant by not wanting to commit libel. It's not libel if it's true.
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Jul 23, 2015 14:08
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Ciaphas posted:My lease on my '14 Mazda3 hatch (great car btw) isn't up for a couple years, but I'm bored and curious about fully electric vehicles...... Couple days late on this, but I'd say look into the new second gen Chevy Volt as well. 'Potentially' the best of both worlds by giving you your electric for around town but not being screwed should you want to do more extended driving. I was very close to purchasing one once they were available, but ended up going with a conventional hybrid instead, (Honda Accord Hybrid). As an added perk, the new interior doesn't look like the inside of a B-movie space shuttle.
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Jul 23, 2015 14:19
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IRQ posted:It's not libel if it's true. Right now I made a sanity check post on Bimmerfest and sent the dealer himself the following e-mail in the chain we've been having so far: quote:[Redacted], edit: just got a reply quote:[Redacted] will be in the office tomorrow Friday the 24th at 10 am another quote:Please contact [Redacted] at [Redacted] Friday. The car is being sold at a very low sale price, as my General manager expressed to me. diadem fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 14:40
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You're getting walked on, tell them no deal and get your thousand dollars back.
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Jul 23, 2015 18:19
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I don't know...the dealer said that he was getting a really good price. They can't lie about that kind of thing, right?
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Jul 23, 2015 18:25
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I really do not understand the deferential tone of your email. You should be allowed to see paperwork and do whatever the gently caress you want with it before you sign it. If the dealership won't meet that extraordinarily simple and fundamental condition, tell them to get hosed. There are a bunch of BMW stores in the Greater Boston area. Pick a different one. (this sounds like BMW Norwood poo poo to me)
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Jul 23, 2015 18:31
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Augmented Dickey posted:I don't know...the dealer said that he was getting a really good price. They can't lie about that kind of thing, right? Seriously, you don't think whatever slimebag you talk to tomorrow in the finance department won't know how to convolute things to the point where you think everything is fine? Get your money back and go somewhere that isn't so drat shady.
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Jul 23, 2015 18:38
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Seriously, the paperwork to buy a car is not some state secret. When I bought my last car (finaced even) I had a couple pages of boilerplate that still had the marketing firm that sold the the language's boiler plate. From a legal perspective, if I were the car dealership's lawyer or finace company, this would piss me off because nit giving someone time to review paperwork they sign or have it reviewed by an attorney as a factor that works toward invalidating a contract. (Don't sign the contract in a home this will happen though, auto litigation is poo poo).
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Jul 23, 2015 18:50
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nm posted:(Don't sign the contract in a home this will happen though, auto litigation is poo poo). So is this sentence. What are you trying to say? It sounds pretty important.
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Jul 23, 2015 19:12
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VideoTapir posted:So is this sentence. What are you trying to say? It sounds pretty important. It says I'm phone posting. What it says is regardless of what I said, don't sign poo poo.
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Jul 24, 2015 00:30
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You're getting walked on, tell them no deal and get your thousand dollars back. this, the Bimmerfest goons are basically BMW lease experts and are pointing out the important things to look for. Dealers are always trying to get money up front, marking up the money factor, and other trickery. OP should find another dealer and don't be afraid to order the car he wants from even out of state (they'll deliver it). Have the MA Bimmerfest posters recommend a dealer/salesperson. The deposit is a deposit and yours to retrieve.
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Jul 24, 2015 16:01
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Keyser S0ze posted:Have the MA Bimmerfest posters recommend a dealer/salesperson. I had a good experience with south shore BMW in Rockland. It's a sample size of one, and I was buying a preowned s2000 that I had mostly negotiated before driving out, but they were not shady at all. It was a total contrast to buying my Subaru where the salesman kept trying that four square thing and having to "check with his manager" about every drat thing.
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Jul 24, 2015 19:33
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Alright. I came with the speak softly and carry a big stick mentality (with my lawyers at the ready if needed). Things turned out a lot more civil than I expected. On a similar note, what are people's thoughts on a car like this instead? He's got a dealer he's partnered with to inspect the car, but I told him I'd rather go through an impartial third party to take a look at the car and he had no problems with that. There'd be a $49 dealer fee, $250 to get the car inspected if i go through his guy, a rough estimate of 1.3k if he ships the car but I'm welcome to find someone cheaper myself. The reg plates and state inspection and all that jazz would have to be handled by me. So I'd be looking at 1.74% APR with $0 up front by going through my own bank, which comes to $1,636.53 interest. I'd probably want to sell it once the warranty is up. Any idea how much that depreciation would be? How much of a pain would it be to sell? That said, this guy also would want $1k deposit if I were to pull the trigger on the car, which would only be refundable if the inspection fails. Which - if this actually is a good deal, would be around the same predication as me giving him the 45,550 anyhow, no? Is this a more reasonable ask on his part for the $1k deposit in this circumstance? (For those wondering, I'd use angies list to find an impartial third party in his area) diadem fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jul 25, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 18:21
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use BIMRS.ORG to find an indy BMW mechanic in any area http://www.bimrs.org/BMWshopLocator.html that deal for a 2 with 8k miles doesn't sound so hot either.........
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Jul 25, 2015 19:12
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Keyser S0ze posted:use BIMRS.ORG to find an indy BMW mechanic in any area Do you mind elaborating on how you were able to figure out the used M235x's fair value so I can do so myself?
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Jul 25, 2015 19:20
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As someone who has never bought a car from a dealer, how normal is this idea for putting deposits down on cars which need to be shipped in to the dealership? Is this normal practice?
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Jul 25, 2015 20:42
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