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rohan posted:I've been out of Rodinal for months and it's a real pain having to actually think about ISO when developing film. The old bastard at Vanbars flat out told me Kodak don't make HC-110 anymore, I was so dumbfounded I didn't bother arguing, The last lot I got was from Blanco Negro (http://blanconegro.com.au/store/), where they have the Foma version of rodinal R09, Fomadon, which works exactly the same as any other version I've used. They're out of stock at the moment, but they guy who runs it is pretty responsive and friendly. Also in Fitzroy is Photo Resource, and they seem to stock Rodinal as well (http://www.photoresource.com.au/DARKROOM_CHEMICALS_s/1906.htm). And they've go all the alternative processing stuff too put together by Ellie from Goldstreet Studios.
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Jul 22, 2015 13:11
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Acros rules. Church of the Nazarene by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
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Jul 22, 2015 15:45
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Spedman posted:The old bastard at Vanbars flat out told me Kodak don't make HC-110 anymore, I was so dumbfounded I didn't bother arguing,
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Jul 23, 2015 09:13
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So I am thinking about shooting some slide film in the 120 flavor. I dislike dealing with color reversal, and cannot make it look good after scanning. Figured that since slide film will be a thing of the past soon, and I don't shoot much color anyways, I would give it a try. So what is left film stock wise? I think Velvia and Provia are the only ones left on the market? I hear that Velvia colors look like  and I have never used Provia besides the weird 400X type once.I will be shooting overcast landscapes mostly. So, any suggestions? Is it shoot for the highlights, and hope for the best type of film?
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Jul 25, 2015 06:49
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Provia Velvia Agfa Precisa Rollei Digibase Agfa Scala, if you want black and white slides. Provia 400 is getting discontinued soon too, so stock up on that. Expired film that is stored properly should be good too, as long as it's not kodachrome, since you can't process that anymore. Buy some Astia. I'm thinking of selling off some of my Astia, maybe.
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Jul 25, 2015 07:15
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Velvia 120 is godly. Hop on that.
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Jul 26, 2015 19:38
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Wild EEPROM posted:Provia Outside of Japan, Provia 400 is basically gone. Hard to say "stock up" when expired rolls are going for 20 per roll. My recommendation is to buy a few rolls of each, shoot, and see what you like, it pretty personal. I like velvia 50 because of the colors while others think it is over saturated.
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Jul 26, 2015 21:55
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Wild EEPROM posted:Provia i've never shot digibase in 120, but i liked it a lot in 35mm. the only problem with it though is that it has an obnoxious piss yellow color cast, which takes a little juggling to get rid of in post.
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Jul 26, 2015 22:41
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nm posted:Outside of Japan, Provia 400 is basically gone. Hard to say "stock up" when expired rolls are going for 20 per roll. 5 packs of 35mm are usually like 45$ shipped from Japan if you jump on eBay or Amazon
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Jul 26, 2015 23:05
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So it seems B&H are no longer shipping this Color Kit. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/109267-REG/Tetenal_T109306_C_41_Press_Kit_for.html Is this one just as good or should I plan on going to NYC or finding a friend down there to pick it up for me? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/10123-Unicolor-Powder-C-41-Film-Negative-Processing-Kit-1-Liter
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Jul 27, 2015 00:03
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The unicolor kit is the same formula as far as I know. It's a shame they are no longer shipping it (to Canada?). Luckily our local camera store in Calgary started selling the unicolor kit for about the same price as importing it from the U.S.
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Jul 27, 2015 01:22
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So it seems B&H are no longer shipping this Color Kit. I can't speak to the C-41 kit, but I am using a Unicolor E-6 Kit right now and it seems to be as stable and effective as the Tetanal kit and came with much better directions.
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Jul 27, 2015 01:38
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So it seems B&H are no longer shipping this Color Kit. I've used the Tetenal one a bunch of times and have been pretty happy with it, and I get the feeling the Unicolor one is going to be very similar. My favourite kits are the Rollei Digibase C-41 kits, as they've got great instructions, even for processing at room temperature, and the chemicals un-mixed last for ages even after opening are partially using the kit, hence getting the big one is good value: http://www.macodirect.de/colour-chemistry-c-765_767.html?osCsid=0d5da4712264915c63cee332dd2be4e6
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Jul 27, 2015 07:21
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 tooth by Phillip Chicola, on Flickr
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Jul 27, 2015 23:25
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Spedman posted:I've used the Tetenal one a bunch of times and have been pretty happy with it, and I get the feeling the Unicolor one is going to be very similar. unfortunately no one this side of the pond seems to have it, I've read that the unicolor and tetenal are the same. with one being a rebrand of the other so i'll get the unicolor.
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Jul 28, 2015 00:29
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Ezekiel_980 posted:unfortunately no one this side of the pond seems to have it, I've read that the unicolor and tetenal are the same. with one being a rebrand of the other so i'll get the unicolor. http://www.argentix.ca/Rolleic41e6.php?=SID&mqry=sp002.5.56
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Jul 28, 2015 00:52
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ok so no one if the US
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Jul 28, 2015 01:21
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I think I mis-assumed where you lived. I must've confused you with a different poster
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Jul 28, 2015 01:27
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Ezekiel_980 posted:unfortunately no one this side of the pond seems to have it, I've read that the unicolor and tetenal are the same. with one being a rebrand of the other so i'll get the unicolor. Its not a bad kit, I've always felt the negatives were little thin using it, but they scan well. Here's a bunch of examples of my results with it: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mrstudent/sets/72157634108704789 https://www.flickr.com/photos/mrstudent/sets/72157654735789685
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Jul 28, 2015 01:54
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Jul 28, 2015 16:10
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Does anybody know if the numbers are correct in the reciprocity app for portra 400? For example one minute reads 3:47. I have used this app multiple times but my portra night shots come out washed out and I'm wondering if it's my metering or if the numbers are incorrect.
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Jul 29, 2015 00:16
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pootiebigwang posted:Does anybody know if the numbers are correct in the reciprocity app for portra 400? For example one minute reads 3:47. I have used this app multiple times but my portra night shots come out washed out and I'm wondering if it's my metering or if the numbers are incorrect. That number is correct. If your night shots are washed out/overexposed, there's something else going on. How are you metering? Are you scanning your negs yourself? If so, are you using automatic inversion through Epson Scan/Vuescan/Silverfast or are you following the Dorkroom-approved method of scanning as positive and then using levels/curves? edit: reposting this again, it's my plot of my data that was incorporated into the reciprocity app thanks to ansel autisms submitting it 
MrBlandAverage fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 00:38
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 img658
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Jul 29, 2015 02:02
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Welp, looks like I'm getting into a new hobby. I picked up this camera dirt-cheap last Thursday. Came with two lenses, a tripod, and an expired (2009!) roll of Kodak Portra 400NC. This is my first "real" film camera, and I'm hoping to get some good use out of it. As far as accessories go, I know I need a strap and a light meter, maybe a flash, and I should probably try to snag a manual off Amazon; I already have a bag. Anything else I need? I'm not worrying about developing yet; there's still a lab in town that processes medium-format film. Meaty Ore fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 02:50
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Meaty Ore posted:Welp, looks like I'm getting into a new hobby. Your phone is your light meter and your manual. http://butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad.htm
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Jul 29, 2015 02:57
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 Sutro Baths by Norman Lee, on Flickr Road trip by Norman Lee, on Flickr
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Jul 29, 2015 04:07
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Meaty Ore posted:Welp, looks like I'm getting into a new hobby. That's quite a way to start, congrats! I'd say all you need is some fresh film and you're good to go.
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Jul 29, 2015 06:12
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You got the best camera and the best film (could use a fresher roll tho).
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Jul 29, 2015 20:38
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Ordered a box of 400h and I haven't shot it before, looks like overexposing is A-OK?
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Jul 31, 2015 03:58
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MrBlandAverage posted:That number is correct. Yeah scanning my negs myself and I do it the tried and true way of scanning as a pos and using curves and levels in photoshop. I meter with a D600 on spot mode as my incident meter (Polaris SPD100) unfortunately just errors out when I try to use it at night. I usually expose for my highlights yet my images still come back overexposed. I usually have to do math and I will meter a scene at 30 sec and make adjustments to my time based of aperture. So if my meter reads f5.6 at 30sec I will do 1 min for f8, 2min at f11 and etc. I don't know what I am doing wrong but I feel like it is super simple. Is it a matter of getting really close to the highlight to get the proper reading? I do sometimes meter from a distance, like when shooting a house or something but I do point my D600 directly at the highlight.
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Jul 31, 2015 04:31
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Unless your scan is blown out you likely just aren't applying a strong enough curve. I'm assuming it just looks "bright" vs. actually clipping out. Also consider that - regardless of how your method fits into what's "tried and true" - just use what works. If you're consistently feeling that your images are overexposed, why not just start underexposing a stop?
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Jul 31, 2015 15:57
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pootiebigwang posted:Does anybody know if the numbers are correct in the reciprocity app for portra 400? For example one minute reads 3:47. I have used this app multiple times but my portra night shots come out washed out and I'm wondering if it's my metering or if the numbers are incorrect. This is a shot that was metered at 1m f/32 and exposed at 4m.  Red Apple Lounge by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
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Aug 5, 2015 15:38
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Where can I find this reciprocity app?
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Aug 5, 2015 15:54
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Thoogsby posted:Where can I find this reciprocity app? https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/reciprocity-timer/id459691262?mt=8 If you're an Android user like me you just use the calculator or your memory 
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Aug 5, 2015 15:59
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I had a couple gear scores this week that I feel like bragging about. Found somebody selling a black Nikon FE2 with an attached 24mm 2.8 AI-s lens for $80. The body's light meter doesn't work so it's going on ebay and I'm keeping the lens, which is near mint. Then today I found somebody selling their Nikon F2 and pre-AI 50mm 1.4 for $50. Both the body and lens are maybe KEH BGN quality. Those two, along with my 105 2.5, I am getting quite the nice little collection of Nikkor primes. 
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Aug 5, 2015 23:47
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This is a dumb question but how do you guys let the lab know a roll was shot at a pushed ISO? Write it on the roll or do you trust the person who takes it from you to not gently caress it up?
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Aug 6, 2015 18:19
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Thoogsby posted:This is a dumb question but how do you guys let the lab know a roll was shot at a pushed ISO? Write it on the roll or do you trust the person who takes it from you to not gently caress it up? I would write "PUSH +1" (or however many stops) on the label and tell the person to whom I'm giving the film.
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Aug 6, 2015 18:37
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I found a new way to process negatives that takes a lot of the guesswork out of it (for me at least). It's essentially the same concept as the video in the OP, but there's a slightly different approach to get there. I'll outline the method here and I'm curious for you guys to try it out. It works amazingly for me.
You can see this essentially clips your individual RGB channels, but it's automatic and usually gets me very very very close to the correct color correction each time. Not to mention it's a way faster workflow. You could add most of these steps to an action.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:17
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 How is that faster than setting white/black points on each of three color channels?
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Aug 6, 2015 22:25
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Maybe you've gotten hella fast at switching between each channel, holding alt and moving each slider towards the middle until it begins to clip, but I am still slow at it. Plus if you don't get each clipping value exactly right, you get bad color casts. It's way faster for me :P
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Aug 6, 2015 22:33
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