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diadem posted:Do you mind elaborating on how you were able to figure out the used M235x's fair value so I can do so myself? if you look through the last few pages of this thread and you'll see guys getting very good deals (lease/buy) on M235/M235ix ......you could offer 43k though and see if they bite. http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=934636&page=87 example ********************** 2015 M235i xdrive Mineral Grey / Coral Red 36/10k lease Tech Premium HK Cold Weather Driver Assist MSRP: 53225 Cap: 6% off (50,031) - $500 buildout - $1000 team usa = 48531 MF: .0014 (they wouldn't budge from stating .0017 and me saying .0013 so i gave them the 10 points) MSD: 7 for final MF of .00091 lease acquis: $795 document fee: $599.... yeah... they hit me with it. VA taxes and registration rolled in monthly $621 ********************** Sometimes it's easier and nearly the same price to just order a new BMW than it is to deal with used car dealers. Refundable $1k deposits are normal for ordering a new car - I've done it twice. Remember in the USA the dealer is basically on the hook for an ordered car (why they won't let you order a purple BMW with yellow leather anymore) and also why you won't find any manuals on lots. I've never seen it buying used cars though - so another red flag with this deal. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jul 25, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 21:30
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Keyser S0ze posted:Refundable $1k deposits are normal for ordering a new car - I've done it twice. [i]Remember in the USA the dealer is basically on the hook for an ordered car (why they won't let you order a purple BMW with yellow leather anymore) and also why you won't find any manuals on lots. Is this normal for luxury cars only or is it true for economy cars too?
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Jul 25, 2015 21:57
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silence_kit posted:Is this normal for luxury cars only or is it true for economy cars too? Nope, I've ordered new cars from Ford and its incredibly easy, no deposit and no bullshit. Just gotta wait a little, then the car shows up and you don't pay a cent until then.
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Jul 25, 2015 23:40
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silence_kit posted:Is this normal for luxury cars only or is it true for economy cars too? Depends on the car. edit: A deposit is not always a bad thing if you have it in writing if you: Have an agreed on price. If it is used, have it inspected. In any case, 100% sure you want the car. Under those conditions, I would prefer a non-refundable deposit as that creates an option contract, which gives you some pretty solid remedies if they try to gently caress with you later. A refundable deposit is probably not a valid contract. For example, I did this on a rare car that was several states away that a trust worthy 3rd party inspected. I wouldn't put a deposit on anything that isn't rare though (a weird option configuration can be enough). nm fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 23:46
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Hi AI tell me how stupid I am: Toyota and Honda refused to play ball so we got a new 2015 dodge caravan se that I'm ridiculously in love with (I'm a PI loser, the stow n go seats are awesome for the dogs, especially the ancient great danes). 0.0% 60 month apr, 8 yr front to back warranty for less than $330 a month after we paid taxes and title fees ourselves. Good deal? I drive maybe 5000 miles a year on average. E: And I know, I know. new cars=depreciation and dodge is worse about depreciation (and some issues in general) than toyota and honda, but when the sales guy smirks "We sell 300-400 cars a month and if you don't want it, someone else will" it kills my interest.
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Jul 27, 2015 15:29
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If your happy does it really matter? Enjoy your Van.
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Jul 27, 2015 15:43
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Hi AI tell me how stupid I am: Toyota and Honda refused to play ball so we got a new 2015 dodge caravan se that I'm ridiculously in love with (I'm a PI loser, the stow n go seats are awesome for the dogs, especially the ancient great danes). 0.0% 60 month apr, 8 yr front to back warranty for less than $330 a month after we paid taxes and title fees ourselves. Good deal? I drive maybe 5000 miles a year on average. That's not a terrible van and it sounds like you got a sane price. Have fun!
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Jul 27, 2015 16:09
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If you plan to drive it in to the ground, depreciation doesn't really matter.
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Jul 27, 2015 16:27
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 Thanks you guys. Even though we're apparently not in AI OR BFC anymore. A/T looks cool for this though too. It's my first new car ever and the newest vehicle I've ever personally had as my car and I'm both delighted and petrified of driving it anywhere because it's got like 40 miles on it so far. So thanks!
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Jul 27, 2015 17:32
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Proposed Budget: $20k, could possibly stretch a bit above that New or Used: Preferably used Body Style: Hatch, prefer smaller How will you be using the car?: Daily driver: work and errands commute in the city and suburbs, 2-3 hour each way road trips at least monthly, 8+ hour each way trips several times a year Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Not satnav or bluetooth or cameras or anything like that necessarily, but keyless entry/start and a decent stereo with usb in, yes What aspects are most important to you? Reliability foremost, interior comfort and sensible/smart controls a close second, mileage third. Basically I'm after something on the smallish side that I'll use to carry groceries and luggage in the back of way more often than extra people. I get low to mid 20s mpg from my current car, would like to maintain that or do better. Initially I was interested in Velosters since I see a ton of them around here lately, but you guys in the thread seem to- pretty consistently over the years- not be fans. I also rented a Focus (forget the trim) for a trip a few weeks ago and thought it was a lot more pleasant to drive than my 09 camry ever was. Besides that the mazda3 is on my list to look into but I'm not sure what else to investigate. the yeti fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jul 27, 2015 |
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Jul 27, 2015 23:21
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Proposed Budget: About 12K New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door midsize How will you be using the car?: daily drive 2 hour total commute plus few hour total commute and 5 hour road trips each way few times a year Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? I don't need to Luxury car, so no GPS or camera or Bluetooth needed What aspects are most important to you? Reliability and safe My lease is ending next month and I am looking to just get a used car. My current car is a Nissan Altima 2010.
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Jul 28, 2015 00:41
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I've heard that the Mazda3 (especially the new gen) is the love of its class in automotive reviewer circles, is that about right? My girlfriend's starting to get into buy new car mode, and she's looking at getting another Hyundai since hers has been good to her, and the dealer has been good to her. But I think she needs to go next door and buy a red Mazda3 five-door.
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Jul 28, 2015 15:23
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dupersaurus posted:I've heard that the Mazda3 (especially the new gen) is the love of its class in automotive reviewer circles, is that about right? My girlfriend's starting to get into buy new car mode, and she's looking at getting another Hyundai since hers has been good to her, and the dealer has been good to her. But I think she needs to go next door and buy a red Mazda3 five-door. The Mazda 3 is excellent in every way, but depending on your local market you should also drive a Ford Focus. My wife and I love the Mazda 3 a ton, but not for the $8k premium they have over Focuses. Around us a base Mazda 3 was $19k, a base Focus Hatch $13k. We ended up settling on a fully loaded Focus Titanium with every option for $18k, a comparable 3 would have been $26k+, even after cross shopping at tons of dealers.
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Jul 28, 2015 15:54
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Proposed Budget: 5-10k Used?: Used Body Style: sedan or smaller How will you be using? Learning stick, good weather fun car Gizmos? None, already have other cars for that. Seriously manual windows No AC is fine, less stuff to fix. Most important aspects: Is manual, RHD (i live in the USA) I've gotten to the highest license level for our internal high speed testing that can still use automatic during testing. The recommendation from the instructors is to continue, but learn stick first. I'd like to have a RHD stick since when driving stick for my job and travel it will be 98% of the time RHD. To be more of a twit about this, I'd really really want to avoid Chrysler products because I've already wasted too much of my life fixing them and having near death experiences with catastrophic suspension failures at speed. I can do maintenance and fix things but would rather avoid having to strip entire interiors or deal with rust. I don't want a restoration project. Is this at all possible?
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Jul 28, 2015 16:38
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Twerk from Home posted:The Mazda 3 is excellent in every way, but depending on your local market you should also drive a Ford Focus. My wife and I love the Mazda 3 a ton, but not for the $8k premium they have over Focuses. Around us a base Mazda 3 was $19k, a base Focus Hatch $13k. We ended up settling on a fully loaded Focus Titanium with every option for $18k, a comparable 3 would have been $26k+, even after cross shopping at tons of dealers. Yeah, but why would you get a Focus that's not an ST? (Plus, that's my plan, next year)
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Jul 28, 2015 16:49
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dupersaurus posted:Yeah, but why would you get a Focus that's not an ST? (Plus, that's my plan, next year) Because you want the rs instead.
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Jul 28, 2015 16:52
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Uncle Jam posted:Proposed Budget: 5-10k The USPS has a race team now?  You're going to have trouble finding a right hand drive car at all, but Miata.
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Jul 28, 2015 16:57
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Uncle Jam posted:Proposed Budget: 5-10k RHD is tough. You are going to have to look overseas, which means 25 years or older.
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Jul 28, 2015 16:58
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:RHD is tough. You are going to have to look overseas, which means 25 years or older. There are a few converted postal subarus.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:06
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Uncle Jam posted:Proposed Budget: 5-10k What about importing a 25 year old Kei car? You might be able to swing that just under $10k.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:09
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blugu64 posted:There are a few converted postal subarus. Weren't these an official thing, actually? All that said, aside from grey-market imports, I think your only stateside options would be those postal Subaru Legacies, postal Jeep Cherokees, or one of those janky RHD conversions with a giant rear end belt stretched across the cabin. I'd also be shocked if any of those postal vehicles are sticks.
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Jul 28, 2015 17:13
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Hmm, its about what I thought. There are a ton of those grey market import websites where you have to fill out your port of call, would like to avoid that. I found this place: http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/ Are there any more places like it? It'd own walking out with a titled car, but they are really heavy on the skylines and tend to have stuff that has lovely audio systems installed, dumb gauges punched through the dash, or stanced. I guess that's because it sells but any run of the mill OEM stuff would be ok. Also importing has the plus side of not being 25 years to the midwest rust as well...
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Jul 28, 2015 23:32
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I learned to drive stick on a LHD car, transitioning to RHD took exactly zero time - the only difference is which hand you work the stick with. I'm serious, the first time I did it, buddy just told me to jump in and I drove right on to the highway, no problems at all. If anything the biggest problem I had with the transition was the location of the rear view mirror - I was constantly turning my head to the right reflexively looking for the rear view. DO not buy a RHD car just to learn stick, because it takes zero time to learn if you already know how to drive stick. Unlike the rear view mirror there is no way you are going to suddenly forget which had in for steering and which hand is for shifting, maybe you won't win any autocross competitions at the beginning but it's no issue at all for just regular driving. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jul 28, 2015 |
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Jul 28, 2015 23:49
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Proposed Budget: 15-20k Used?: Used. Preferably 1-2 years old. Body Style: Sedan, maybe a coupe if it has enough trunk space to fit a climbing crash pad. I don't really like how most hatchbacks look, but I could consider one How will you be using? Daily driver, occasional road trips Most important aspects: I'd like a stick shift to make driving to work slightly less mind-numbing. Also, it would be nice if the car feels fun to drive. Right now I have a 2005 Ford Focus which accelerates so slowly that merging onto the highway is miserable; I'm not sure if that's because it's old or because it's a Focus. Right now it seems like I should be looking at Mazda3/Focus/??? Any suggestions are welcome
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Jul 29, 2015 00:12
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I've looked at getting an original mini, and a lot of them already here in the states are RHD, if you want one that badly. mastershakeman posted:Because you want the rs instead. This is a good counterpoint.
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Jul 29, 2015 00:28
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dupersaurus posted:I've looked at getting an original mini, and a lot of them already here in the states are RHD, if you want one that badly. Make sure you know Minis well enough to be sure it's legal. There are lots of vin-swapped or otherwise illegal minis for sale. Some have been confiscated and crushed.
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Jul 29, 2015 00:49
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VideoTapir posted:Make sure you know Minis well enough to be sure it's legal. There are lots of vin-swapped or otherwise illegal minis for sale. Some have been confiscated and crushed. I pretty desperately want to buy a RHD 80's turbodiesel Land Cruiser, but this would be my eternal fear.
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Jul 29, 2015 01:00
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Thinking of buying a used 2014 Mitsubishi Lancer ES for 12k. Still has 25k miles and 3 years left on the comprehensive limited and powertrain warranty. Mitsubishis aren't exactly widespread in the US. Would the maintenance be especially expensive? What about repairs after the warranty is up? I have found lots of mixed information on google. Would it be wiser to go with a Hyundai or Kia over the Mitsubishi at a similar price point with a similar warranty?
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Jul 29, 2015 10:10
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Do not buy that car. The Lancer is an ancient and non-competitive design.
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Jul 29, 2015 12:32
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:Thinking of buying a used 2014 Mitsubishi Lancer ES for 12k. Still has 25k miles and 3 years left on the comprehensive limited and powertrain warranty. Mitsubishis aren't exactly widespread in the US. Would the maintenance be especially expensive? What about repairs after the warranty is up? I have found lots of mixed information on google. Would it be wiser to go with a Hyundai or Kia over the Mitsubishi at a similar price point with a similar warranty? If you buy a modern mitsu that isn't an evo, it better be cheap as hell. 12k isn't cheap enough. Also make sure the warranty transferz, some of the cheaper companies with long warranties engage in some fuckery.
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Jul 29, 2015 17:55
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nm posted:If you buy a modern mitsu that isn't an evo, it better be cheap as hell. 12k isn't cheap enough. The warranty was originally 10 years/100k miles for the powertrain, but that's only for the original owner. Goes down to 5yr/60k when transferred. I guess I'm not gonna get it though. Insurance quotes are really high on it. 250/month from progressive for 500 deductible comprehensive/collision was the cheapest I came up with so far.
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Jul 30, 2015 00:13
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the yeti posted:Proposed Budget: $20k, could possibly stretch a bit above that I bought a 2015 Hyunda Elantra that I'm really loving so far. I tried the Mazda3s when I was car shopping and they were pretty fun, but the road noise seemed pretty loud and seemed pretty barebones in their basic package. The basic Mazda3s (granted I think they were used 2013s) I looked at didn't even have cruise control and no steering wheel controls. Basically just power windows and doors and mirrors.The Elantra came standard with blue tooth/voice controls/multiple USB ins/XM radio (Free for 3 months)/all the steering wheel controls and cruise control/heated front seats/heated side mirrors/automatic headlights/telescopic steering/and my favourite, three different steering modes (comfort - looser, sport - tighter steering like a Mazda, and then just normal). Gringo Heisenberg fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 03:51
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I'm in the process of trying to get my deposit back (legal is on standby, I still have plenty of time to charge back, but they claim to have no problem refunding my money) In the meantime I'm looking at this. -I'd be getting a $0 down and 1.74% APR loan from my credit union for payment (up to 65 months, though I'd probably do 3 years to just get it over with) -Additional fees would be sales tax, $395 registration -It's not certified pre-owned. They said they can certify it if I really want, but it'd raise the price if it is. -They have no qualms with me bringing the car to my mechanic Any red flags on this one? I'd like to stop by, test drive, have my lawyers look over the purchase and sale, then buy it if my mechanic gives the thumbs up and it doesn't smell of smoke. That said, sanity check first  .
diadem fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 00:57
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I've decided to buy a 2009 Toyota Yaris from Carmax (auto trans). It has 97k miles. $2070 for their maxcare warranty (http://www.carmax.com/enus/maxcare/default.html) 5yrs/150k miles (essentially 5yrs/53k miles because of the existing mileage) $50 deductible. Worth it, or better off keeping the $2000 and handling repairs on my own?
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Jul 31, 2015 04:23
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I've decided to buy a 2009 Toyota Yaris from Carmax (auto trans). It has 97k miles. $2070 for their maxcare warranty (http://www.carmax.com/enus/maxcare/default.html) 5yrs/150k miles (essentially 5yrs/53k miles because of the existing mileage) $50 deductible. Worth it, or better off keeping the $2000 and handling repairs on my own? I'd skip it. Whatever lawnmower engine is crammed into the Yaris is probably reasonably bomb-proof. Check the trans fluid (make sure it is cherry red), check the oil, look at the tires and make sure you have some reasonable tread. Drive it around for a bit and make sure the AT isn't slipping and the engine isn't doing anything wonky. If it's not--buy it, live your life. Is it 5 years from date of purchase? I'm not sure how far you drive but 2070 is a big repair--and on a relatively small/simple/reliable 'yota I wouldn't be incredibly paranoid if it's in reasonably good shape outright.
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Jul 31, 2015 04:37
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LeeMajors posted:I'd skip it. It's 5 years from date of purchase, so it's actually a heck of a warranty. I desire the peace of mind that comes with the warranty, but yeah, it does seem kind of overkill for the car I'm buying. It doesn't even have power windows or locks, and an extra 2k in the bank is peace of mind in itself. Still, 97k miles isn't exactly low. I dunno.
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Jul 31, 2015 06:25
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So what do ya'll think of the 16 escape? My wife loves it and I'm meh on it (prefer sedans) but I wouldn't mind the room since I can cart guitar equipment around. My credit is meh so my credit union offered me 8% on a 90% LTV, but then Ford financing offered me 1.9% which means I would be paying about 1/3 the interest on a more expensive new vehicle than used (no money down as well). We can easily afford it, and are going to buy a second car no matter what. We have one small sedan already. (Paid off 2000 TL) and very low expenses overall (just so I don't end up in the BWM thread  )Edit: gently caress it, bought one. Stoked. hanales fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 09:03
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diadem posted:I'm in the process of trying to get my deposit back (legal is on standby, I still have plenty of time to charge back, but they claim to have no problem refunding my money) To me, that seems like a lot of money for a car that wasn't very good when it was new and also has literally nothing in common with your previous choice of a 2-series. What do you actually want from a car?
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Jul 31, 2015 13:12
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:It's 5 years from date of purchase, so it's actually a heck of a warranty. I desire the peace of mind that comes with the warranty, but yeah, it does seem kind of overkill for the car I'm buying. It doesn't even have power windows or locks, and an extra 2k in the bank is peace of mind in itself. Still, 97k miles isn't exactly low. I dunno. You are talking about two grand on a very reliable car that is charitably worth $7k. It's an asinine idea.
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Jul 31, 2015 13:15
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:To me, that seems like a lot of money for a car that wasn't very good when it was new and also has literally nothing in common with your previous choice of a 2-series. What do you actually want from a car? A luxury badge.
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Jul 31, 2015 14:25
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