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So I've gained an interest in painting minis and I need suggestions on models that are cheap and easy for beginners. I have no attachment to any setting or game. What do you guys recommend?
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Jul 25, 2015 07:12
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I Am The Scum posted:So I've gained an interest in painting minis and I need suggestions on models that are cheap and easy for beginners. I have no attachment to any setting or game. What do you guys recommend? Reaper Bones stuff would probably be a decent jumping off point. They're soft plastic recasts of a bunch of Reaper's metal models for the sake of making them dirt-rear end cheap, and detail wise they're pretty comparable. Individual human sized models will run you like three bucks a pop, so you can buy a handful for practice and not feel too guilty about what happens to them. They behave a little bit differently than the metal and hard plastic stuff you'll find with most model lines in terms of like cleaning them up and priming them, but if "cheap" is the goal that's your best bet.
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Jul 25, 2015 07:41
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Reaper makes a series called Bones that fits the bill nicely. There's a reasonably diverse line that's great for beginning and practicing at a great price. The plastic is a bit softer, and you should read this thread for info on how best to prepare it for painting. e;fb
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Jul 25, 2015 07:42
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I'm finally getting around to painting some Mordians I snagged off ebay an age ago. I'm not great at painting, but I'd like to someday play with these things and have them not look like poo poo. This is the first one I painted up, and I'm looking for color advice. Should I go lighter on the pants? User yellow for the shouldboards instead of gold? I'm worried it's too dark. 
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Jul 25, 2015 15:26
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I'd argue Reaper metals are better than bones. Just a few dollars more and the quality is so much higher, plus working with Bones is a pain in the rear end and not really what I would recommend as the best way to get into the hobby. I'd try and avoid anything super detail heavy as well, maybe start with some goblins, skeletons or similar things that aren't modeled with the PHP's worth of gear on their back. Really though it depends on what themes you like. It's worth going to the clearance section of places like Miniature Market and seeing if they have anything discounted that looks cool: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/clearance/table-top-miniatures.html This guy would be a good pick for instance since he's a pretty simple robot guy with not a lot of finnicky details: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/spm146007.html
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Jul 25, 2015 16:42
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I'd say start with bones if only because you don't have to loving pin anything. Assembly could easily be a huge turnoff.
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Jul 25, 2015 16:44
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Arven posted:I'm finally getting around to painting some Mordians I snagged off ebay an age ago. I'm not great at painting, but I'd like to someday play with these things and have them not look like poo poo. I agree, much too dark. Mordians wear basically parade uniforms, so you need to step it up everywhere on the brightness - the coat, the piping, and the gold. Right now he looks uncool, like a Crimson Fist. EDIT: I'd also consider switching the lasgun casing to something other than black. Maybe red? Black casing + silver trim is hard to do without looking low-effort.
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Jul 25, 2015 17:44
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Kind of a UK centric question, has anyone tried Halford's camo primers? Would speed up painting USAriadna stuff nicely.
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Jul 25, 2015 21:38
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Arven posted:I'm finally getting around to painting some Mordians I snagged off ebay an age ago. I'm not great at painting, but I'd like to someday play with these things and have them not look like poo poo. It looks good! Thin your paints, though, I can see some streaks and brush strokes because the paint is too thick. The colors look fine to me. The pants could be lighter, but Mordians are nothing if not uniform in colors. Regardless, paint them how you want them to look! If it was hot pink with dark green I might object, but the color balance looks fine. I would worry more about putting too much effort into your rank-and-file troops, especially with a horde army like Imperial Guard.
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Jul 25, 2015 22:06
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An Angry Bug posted:Yes. Yes. I have painted my first good eyes! Good job! I'm starting a Circle army, and I'm worried about having to paint eyes that aren't a red dot 
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Jul 25, 2015 22:26
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I Am The Scum posted:So I've gained an interest in painting minis and I need suggestions on models that are cheap and easy for beginners. I have no attachment to any setting or game. What do you guys recommend? El Estrago Bonito posted:working with Bones is a pain in the rear end and not really what I would recommend as the best way to get into the hobby. I'd try and avoid anything super detail heavy as well, maybe start with some goblins, skeletons or similar things that aren't modeled with the PHP's worth of gear on their back. I absolutely agree, Bones aren't good for a beginner painter who just wants to paint for fun. I love mine for what they are though, a quick and affordable way to build a miniatures collection for RPGs. You can get a set of metal miniatures from Reaper for nearly the price of Bones, I picked up a boxed set last time I bought a lot of Bones and I sort of regret just not buying more boxed sets. http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/BoxedSets
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Jul 25, 2015 23:08
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Cross post from the oath thread. 5, 10mm dragons of Middle Earth. And an objective marker for the lotr sbg game.        This guy goes with this box art from the dark sword product page on it:  http://www.darkswordminiatures.com/shop/index.php/miniatures/visions-in-fantasy/red-dragon.html  This guy I painted after a male austrailian water dragon:    
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Jul 25, 2015 23:38
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Quick and dirty muscle daddy Wracks. The matte finish fogged up on me (humidity is normal and it's not cold outside, maybe this can also happen when the can runs low?) but it cleared up on its own after this photo was taken. Normally, it takes an extra coat of gloss finish to clear up the fogginess, then more matte to finish. I find it more satisfying to paint the minis in a satisfactory way so that they're completed, then lavish lots of details on characters (I added one extra highlight on the Acothyst dude plus detailed the gem in his weapon). Sand and static grass coming up once the varnish dries.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:53
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Cross-posting my PzI from the other miniatures thread.     
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Jul 26, 2015 04:02
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Hans! Too much schnapps before driving! Untragbar!
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Jul 26, 2015 07:27
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Anyone have a good way or tutorial on painting red OSL (demonic eyes or LEDs) that doesn't end up pinkish or orange?
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Jul 26, 2015 11:11
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Slightly related as it is to protect my paint jobs - has anyone got KR multicases? I've got a couple of skirmish game teams I want to be able to transport: malifaux, infinity and warmachine - not necessarily all concurrently. I was thinking that one of the 1/2 size card boxes with half big and half infantry would do it: can anyone give me insight? The options are so specific and seem to be tailored towards big forces instead of small gangs.
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Jul 26, 2015 12:07
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I love KR multicase, but their site can be a bit difficult to follow. How many models of each do you have? If it's not a lot, you might want to consider the 1/4 size case too. I currently use them to keep my paints in but they have space enough for 40 human sized infantry at ±28mm scale. Although unless you have a display case I'd recommend getting enough cases (or one large enough) to hold your models simply for storage purposes. I do recommend sending them an email, as most (if not all) of their employees play TTG and will probably be able to recommend you the right foam that you need. Pierzak posted:Anyone have a good way or tutorial on painting red OSL (demonic eyes or LEDs) that doesn't end up pinkish or orange? Just a theory, but maybe the brightest red you have as the light source, followed by a glaze of that red mixed with a darker red, with the darkest red at the edges of the glow. It might not work without a dot of pinkish white in the middle though. ijyt fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 12:35
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ijyt posted:Just a theory, but maybe the brightest red you have as the light source, followed by a glaze of that red mixed with a darker red, with the darkest red at the edges of the glow.
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Jul 26, 2015 12:40
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Are they fine to chop bits out to fit larger miniatures? For example warjacks
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Jul 26, 2015 13:02
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Yup, they also have three kinds of pick and pluck listed here, you can print this out and match it up to your models. This page lists all the foams they have per army/system which might be useful. As you're going to Dark Sphere, they stock some generic full size cases with foam if you want to have a hands-on look.
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Jul 26, 2015 13:27
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Does anyone have a recommendation to get a similar base colour of the ice, as well as the grey of the coat? Vallejo, Army Painter, P3, Coat d'Arms, or Citadel though I'd probably prefer Vallejo. 
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Jul 26, 2015 13:35
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Turquoise + a bit of dark grey?
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Jul 26, 2015 13:39
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have a recommendation to get a similar base colour of the ice, as well as the grey of the coat? Vallejo MC Blue Green
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Jul 26, 2015 13:53
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My base crew for Malifaux all painted up and based, along with some traps for another character. Latigo Posse!  Close up on the rusted blade for the dude in the back  Added a makeshift cross to the leader of the crew's base at the end of the day out of some coffee stir sticks and a brown wash.  On to the traps! First I played around with some rust effects and was overall pretty happy with how it turned out.  Then I played around with GW's Blood for the Blood God paint because their technical paints are pretty spiffy, even if their pot design stinks.  Then the madness started taking over.  Then I remembered I had some googly eyes handy... 
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Jul 26, 2015 16:43
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guys what colour should I paint my muddy bases? I dont like the look of black rims so much Should I go lighter or darker than the mud colour?
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Jul 26, 2015 16:54
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Moola posted:guys what colour should I paint my muddy bases? Darker I think, it always made sense to me if I thought it was an abstraction of the wetter earth underneath.
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Jul 26, 2015 17:15
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makes sense to me
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Jul 26, 2015 17:40
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ijyt posted:Yup, they also have three kinds of pick and pluck listed here, you can print this out and match it up to your models. This is kind of the problem - I just want to buy a small box for say 15-20 30mm guys and 3-5 "big guys" as cheaply as possible, don't need super customisation or bespoke stuff. Finding a concrete answer is a bit of a pain! I'm looking at the half size card box since I can't find a quarter size one that has small and large slots: Malifaux Set 6 Holds: 8-12 H2/H3 figures, 38 H1/H2 figures (set for Aquilla4 or Small aluminium case) Comprises: F4H, N4H, J2H Ideally I need half of the above, twice: one for me and one for my buddy at 5 large, 16 small each and equivalent cases but it just seems like a lot of hard work. I tried selecting via case and then tray, but I either get "custom" which points me to 40k. Drop zone, etc. or core which says "fill out what you want" without knowing what will fit  Can anyone help?
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Jul 26, 2015 18:20
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Southern Heel posted:This is kind of the problem - I just want to buy a small box for say 15-20 30mm guys and 3-5 "big guys" as cheaply as possible, don't need super customisation or bespoke stuff. Finding a concrete answer is a bit of a pain! Ok, the 15-20 normal sized guys isn't a problem, but with the big guys I'm assuming they're at least 1.5x/2x the base size of the normal infantry, right? You'd need deeper foam for the fatter bases, which you can't do bespoke as they don't cut the trays that small (smallest size is quarter trays, you'd need four half that). What you could do, and I don't know how well it'd work, is order a 1/4 size case filled with just pick and pluck, then cut those trays in half. Here's a quick MS Paint to try and get it across.  I'm picking up some Malifaux stuff tomorrow, and I have the quarter size cases, so I can better explain it then. Again, I really do recommend calling up KR with a list of your models and what you're trying to do. Their customer service is top class. e: Also the bespoke stuff isn't really more expensive than KR's sets, it simply means you tell them specifically what foam you want. serious gaylord posted:Vallejo MC Blue Green El Estrago Bonito posted:Maybe VGC Electric Blue? Oh yeah, thanks - I'll have a look at those in-store. ijyt fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 18:55
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When is it generally considered too humid to airbrush/prime?
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Jul 26, 2015 19:05
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have a recommendation to get a similar base colour of the ice, as well as the grey of the coat? Maybe VGC Electric Blue?
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Jul 26, 2015 19:06
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Partial Octopus posted:When is it generally considered too humid to airbrush/prime? I don't know how much help this is, but in the south of the UK I tend to avoid humidity above 50% when priming outside.
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Jul 26, 2015 19:14
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ijyt posted:I don't know how much help this is, but in the south of the UK I tend to avoid humidity above 50% when priming outside. I was going to attempt to airbrush in my apartment but it's pretty hot and humid and we don't have AC.
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Jul 26, 2015 19:15
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Southern Heel posted:
Feldherr Mini case. 2x 16 model trays, plus a 3" small pluck foam underneath. I got mine from Amazon. I'm phone posting, so this link may be messed up, but here, or search for Feldherr and it's the first one that comes up. Mini plus with tanks/monster foam. $40 USD.
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Jul 26, 2015 20:04
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That looks perfect but being in the UK j can't find the exact same on Amazon.co.uk - can you see it or can I order direct or something? Edit: will call KR when I get back home also - can you explain a bit further why a 1/4 size case requires two half 1/4's? Is the 1/4 size two layers or just one? Your sketch would indicate two layers bit the surely I would need two 1/2's cut in half to create two pairs? Ah! So complicated!! Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 20:56
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How much should I be thinning reaper master series paints for brush painting?
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Jul 26, 2015 21:03
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Commissar Canuck posted:Then I remembered I had some googly eyes handy... You're doing God's work here, friend. EDIT: Partial Octopus posted:How much should I be thinning reaper master series paints for brush painting? I go just a little bit less than 1 part thinner (mix of acrylic medium and water) to one part paint for the basecoat, and then I go three to four parts thinner to one part paint for the layering.
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Jul 26, 2015 21:15
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Partial Octopus posted:How much should I be thinning reaper master series paints for brush painting? It depends what you are doing and how dark the color is but generally I do about 1 part water to 3 parts paint.
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Jul 26, 2015 21:17
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nesbit37 posted:It depends what you are doing and how dark the color is but generally I do about 1 part water to 3 parts paint.  I'm attempting this color scheme. I used black primer. So I will mostly be painting dark blues and dark greens.
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Jul 26, 2015 21:24
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