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Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

OK very last question I promise: is it plausible to play full games on a 3x3 board? It seems as though 4x4 is recommended but if it ends up focused around the centre like malifaux then I'm happy to forego 6" of 'back' deployment

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Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
You have AD units, infiltrators, weapon ranges across the entire board so while it should be playable, the extra foot makes a difference.

Genghis Cohen
Jun 29, 2013

Southern Heel posted:

OK very last question I promise: is it plausible to play full games on a 3x3 board? It seems as though 4x4 is recommended but if it ends up focused around the centre like malifaux then I'm happy to forego 6" of 'back' deployment

I find it often does end up around the centre because when terrain is a bit stretched (as it is for a lot of people either because they're constrained by their own collection or because it's spread across a club's worth of tables) it gets put in the centre first. Often when I've played we set up and then realise the actual deployment zones are relatively bare!

I think it does affect the game. True, most often I find I am deploying as far forward as allowed, provided the cover is there. But the extra range is important for weapons like snipers and missile launchers, and size also comes into play when you have AD troops or sneaky beakies getting into the enemy dz and trying to maneuver. The size will also affect the ddiagonal fire lanes which let long range weapons come into play.

Short answer: it's not going to massively gently caress it up, provided you use 6" each deployment zones, but it is probably a more interesting and varied game on 4' by 4'.

EDIT: beaten like the red headed step-child of a rented mule.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


it's plausible but would suck balls.

Genghis Cohen
Jun 29, 2013
I would have said 'workable but far from ideal', but puhtayto puhtahto.

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades

Flipswitch posted:

it's plausible but would suck balls.

Kind of this, though perhaps not quite as negative. I'd be up for 200-250pts on a 3x3 with 6" deployment zones though. Hell, I've played 200pts on a 2x4 one time.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Genghis Cohen posted:

I would have said 'workable but far from ideal', but puhtayto puhtahto.
I like being more direct with my commentary. :v: Mostly it's because of how some factions are balanced and weapon favouritism on smaller tables.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

From personal experience, 150pts is pretty nice on a 3x3, but anything more a 4x4 is better.

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Pierzak posted:

Any line of miniature paints will do. My experiences are:

GW - old line is good, new line is the worst of popular lines and overpriced. "Effect" paints are the only ones worth considering if you have alternatives available.
Reaper - Very good, smooth, good coverage, goes well with airbrush, but likes to reactivate when washed - give it a few hours to dry before washing
Vallejo - Good. Model Color is more matte, smoother and has better coverage than Game Color (different palette though, more drab/military), but is very fragile and easy to rub off until varnished, also has similar wash problem to Reaper. Liquid Gold is alcohol-based and a bit temperamental but has a beautiful finish, and Air can be brushed-on and has the single best acrylic metallic I've seen (Steel)
Army Painter - Decent, good "first time painting" line, a bit thick so get used to thinning. Their Quickshade washes (don't confuse with dipping stains with the same name!) are very good equivalents for the old GW washes.
PP/P3 - the few PP paints I have are very good, my only complaint is pots instead of dropper bottles. Avoid metallics though, PP metallics are poo poo because they make things look like cheap plastic toys.
craft paints - use for terrain but not on minis unless you really know what you're doing. Otherwise not worth the hassle.

Grab Vallejo Glaze Medium and some flow improver. Infinity minis like washes and semi-matte glazes.
Also, with the new "covered slot" CB bases you can avoid cutting the slot and just push the model in, especially if it has two small tabs instead of one large.
Wash your minis! It sounds pointless until you try gluing an antenna, braid or other similar small part. Also, gel superglue is your friend for that one.

For starting paint supplies what would you recommend for Infinity?

Spray primer, paint line, Vallejo glaze (never used washes/glazes but I'd like to learn), brushes. Anything out of the ordinary?

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Whichever paints you find most comfortable to use is the best answer. Brushes I always use Kolinsky Sable and for paints I tend to use Vallejo Model Colour and P3 paints with the occasional GW one I have lying around.

E: Primer wise I use Modelmates, they're drat good.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

goodness posted:

For starting paint supplies what would you recommend for Infinity?

Spray primer, paint line, Vallejo glaze (never used washes/glazes but I'd like to learn), brushes. Anything out of the ordinary?

Emery boards. Much better for tiny Infinity mold lines than files.

Also varnish, PVA glue, basing stuffs, modeling tools.

Pierzak fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jul 26, 2015

dmnz
Feb 14, 2012

BNNRROWNWNWOWOWOWO
3 of us noobs played our first game on Friday.
Lotsa page turning, but lots of fun.

I finished my colour test model, apologies for crappy lighting.
Totally unoriginal colour scheme, but I like the default on these guys.




Any tips for a new group getting into the game?
We're learning from scratch here - no one to teach us the game.

We played with out any advanced rules and I guess we'll do that a few more times to familiarize the basics.

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte
Nice Ghulam, dude!

Since you've inspired me, have two in-progress shots of my Joan, who will proxy as an Asawira.




And my Lasiq sniper:




They don't look as pink in person.

E: Oh yeah, I'm going to try freehanding the Asawira insignia on Joan's white shoulder. :shepicide:

For reference:

Condoleezza Nice! fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jul 27, 2015

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Might as well. Here's what I painted today for my buddy. Not my usual quality but ok for a speedpaint.
Excuse the lovely lighting, I'll take a better photo once I varnish/grass them.



And yes, that is an extra hand with a combi coming out of that Seed-Soldiers rear end in a top hat. Many fusiliers lost their lives by assuming that alien anatomy is comparable to human. no that is totally not a Malignos behind him shut up

Pierzak fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jul 27, 2015

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades
Man, must be painting day. I just finished most of the details on another Teuton this afternoon. I'd take pics but all I have handy is a cell phone camera and that never ends well.

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte

Corbeau posted:

Man, must be painting day. I just finished most of the details on another Teuton this afternoon. I'd take pics but all I have handy is a cell phone camera and that never ends well.

Do it anyway. Mine are taken with my iphone.

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades
Eh, no point in posting a pic of detailing if it's impossible to make out any detail.

e: Got one semi-decent pic:



Next up is the base, unless I spot anything else that I've missed.

For reference, this is what my other (finished) Teuton looks like with better lighting setup and an actual camera:

Corbeau fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jul 27, 2015

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?
Oh cool I was just working on my Metros and Yu Jing!

















I'm glad that some new people at our club has gotten into Infinity but now 3 out of 5 of our players play Yu Jing. I'm a little sick of TO Ninjas shankin my dudes.

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte
Hey Chance, mind sharing some tips for painting good looking blonde hair? That Uxia looks great!

Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid

dmnz posted:

Any tips for a new group getting into the game?
We're learning from scratch here - no one to teach us the game.

We played with out any advanced rules and I guess we'll do that a few more times to familiarize the basics.

Learn the rules for your own troops first, don't try and memorise everything in one go. If you have a tablet, use the wiki. Or better yet if you have an ipad use MayaNet for ease of reference (don't think the wiki there is updated, but the stats and range bands are easily available).

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?

Fanzay posted:

Hey Chance, mind sharing some tips for painting good looking blonde hair? That Uxia looks great!

Its hard to tell in my terrible resolution pics but I basecoat with Reaper's Palomino gold (its a light brownish yellow), then mix a little bit of yellow into the Palomino gold for the highlight with a little Tusk Ivory for extreme highlights. Straight yellow just looks like a bad wig even with my admittedly cartoonish painting style.

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte

Chance II posted:

Its hard to tell in my terrible resolution pics but I basecoat with Reaper's Palomino gold (its a light brownish yellow), then mix a little bit of yellow into the Palomino gold for the highlight with a little Tusk Ivory for extreme highlights. Straight yellow just looks like a bad wig even with my admittedly cartoonish painting style.

Awesome, and thanks for telling me exactly what Palomino gold looks like, I'm grateful. I can't easily acquire Reaper paints in my area any more, so knowing what to look for is supremely helpful.

In other news: I'm killing myself over how I'm going to paint Joan's face. :suicide:
I promise to post some good quality photos when I'm done, as I don't think I have ever painted something to the standard she's currently at. Pushin' boundaries! :iia:

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


So the USAriadna is the only thing gencon exclusive this year, right?

I like that hat, but eh.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Not USAriadna. Van Zant.

Genghis Cohen
Jun 29, 2013

Deviant posted:

So the USAriadna is the only thing gencon exclusive this year, right?

I like that hat, but eh.

TBH I like the USAriadna models, silly werewolves aside, but I'm a little gutted they are only releasing the one box this month. I understand the mechanics behind the decision, I'm just greedy for more options. And I dunno, it just smacks a little of pandering to the USA market to me. Maybe a smart business decision, but as a half-yank I'm a bit sensitive to the implied condescension in the idea that Americans are more likely to play the game with the space-American faction.

(Perhaps I'm being a big baby, if there was a British faction I'd probably play it. As is the SAS are fairly tempting, got a 40k mate into the game mostly on the strength of those models)

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades
Well, I'm going to try the Seraph again tonight. Last time I got my rear end handed to me pretty hard due to lack of attack vectors, so I've put together a list with a few more options. Critique welcome.

Military Orders
──────────────────────────────────────────────────

Group 1 10 0 2
SERAPH Spitfire + AUXBOT_1 / EXP CCW. (2 | 83)
BROTHER KONSTANTINOS Specialist (Infiltration) Combi Rifle, D-Charges / Assault Pistol, CCW. (34)
SPEC. SERGEANT (CH: TO Camouflage, Infiltration, Forward Observer) Combi Rifle, Antipersonnel Mines / Pistol, Knife. (27)
SPEC. SERGEANT (Multispectral Visor L2) Spitfire / Pistol, Knife. (1.5 | 24)
MAGISTER KNIGHT Panzerfaust, Light Shotgun / Pistol, AP CCW. (23)
MAGISTER KNIGHT Panzerfaust, Light Shotgun / Pistol, AP CCW. (23)
FUSILIER HMG / Pistol, Knife. (1 | 18)
FUSILIER Lieutenant Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (10)
FUSILIER Combi Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (10)
MACHINIST Combi Rifle, D-Charges / Pistol, Knife. (15)

Group 2 1 0 0
SPEC. SERGEANT (CH: TO Camouflage, Infiltration) MULTI Sniper Rifle / Pistol, Knife. (1.5 | 33)

6 SWC | 300 Points

Open with Army 5

To elaborate a bit on composition, here's how the list breaks down into component parts:

Close Control & Close Sweeping:
2x Magister Knight
1x HFT Auxbot

Ranged Control:
1x TO Sergeant Sniper
1x Seraph in semi-forward cover? Not sure this is legit.

Ranged Sweeping:
1x MSV2 Spitfire Sergeant
1x Linked Fusilier HMG

Specialists:
1x Konstantinos
1x TO FO Sergeant

Strikers:
2x Magister Knight
1x Seraph probably?
1x Konstantinos
1x TO FO Sergeant

Corbeau fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jul 27, 2015

dmnz
Feb 14, 2012

BNNRROWNWNWOWOWOWO

Not a viking posted:

Learn the rules for your own troops first, don't try and memorise everything in one go. If you have a tablet, use the wiki. Or better yet if you have an ipad use MayaNet for ease of reference (don't think the wiki there is updated, but the stats and range bands are easily available).

Thanks for the tip, I'll grab the app.

ThreeLefts
Dec 27, 2012

Corbeau posted:

..I'm going to try the Seraph again tonight..

Best of luck to you man, from a fellow Seraph Sympathiser.
List looks ok to me, generally I don't run less than 3 magisters just in case I need to give them cover and wack them in a link.
Not crash hot on massive links in N3 and I can't say no to MORE Sergeant+Roller Toasters; but I have found 3 to be the sweet spot for me.

Do you need two visors? I don't know your meta or board. I find myself putting the Spec Sgt MSV L2 in Suppressive Fire a lot more than I use him as an aggressive troop.
I have had some success using a Pathfinder+Fusil hacker to mark targets for the Seraph in games I have proxied him.

Let me know how the game goes.

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades
I tend to deploy my Magisters on opposite sides of the board and use them almost like durable Ghazi Muttawi'ah: remove skirmishers, clear mines, and prevent attacking models from reaching my backfield. They've done much better for me when they're spread out and cover more vectors.

As for visors, people here love their camo snipers. TO if available, camo if not. I'd rather have an MSV2 HMG, but an MSV2 Spitfire is the best that MO can offer. One visor is too little redundancy for my liking; if I had the SWC, I'd run a second MSV2 Spitfire Sergeant. As is, Konstantinos will have to do. He's useful here because he fulfills so many different roles at once. I'd prefer even more visors though - I've won far too many games by keeping my TO Sniper hidden until my opponent's visor(s) were off the table!

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
N3 Wiki's up here: http://wiki.infinitythegame.com/en/Main_Page
Still lacking official wordings on FAQ entries and Army 5 hooks, but much better than nothing.

Also crossposting my Unidrons, which finishes out my new CA starter.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

stabbington posted:

N3 Wiki's up here: http://wiki.infinitythegame.com/en/Main_Page
Still lacking official wordings on FAQ entries and Army 5 hooks, but much better than nothing.

Also crossposting my Unidrons, which finishes out my new CA starter.



These are DOPE

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?
NIce. The new CA models are pretty slick. Wish I could get dark colors schemes to look that good.

ThreeLefts
Dec 27, 2012

The trick is using next to no black. Black ruins all colour schemes.

e> Apologies for actually useless post. I am procrastinating at work. I will try and find some example pics of dark colour schemes I have done well enough to post up and talk about how I did them if you want.

ThreeLefts fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jul 28, 2015

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?
That would be helpful, if you get a chance. I've tried using grey with a dark wash or substituting dark blue for black with poor results.

ThreeLefts
Dec 27, 2012

Just about everything that applies to Dark colour schemes applies to Light ones as well, because the key to it all is contrast.
I used to collect Black Templars circa 10 years ago and still dabble in Warmachine every now and again.



You can see from way back with the BT's and to a lesser extent the Khador I really relied on the metallic paints to lift up thoroughly dull, over-washed models.
I don't use metallics on my Infinity, and as a result my painting technique has been forced to improve. Otherwise the models mock me for ruining such fine detail.
I have also taken to washing early to help me paint, but never actually doing the dip near the end I used to, to keep it bright and keep the contrast up.



You can see I am almost done with the Legs, the Midsection is washed and the Top of the model has just got basic colour blocking on it.

We paint and play this games in quite bright flat light so a lot of those details you thought you had on dark or very light models just disappear. I try to paint light on them, not just edge highlights.
If you at all familiar with TF2 you should look at their art direction (pre war-themed hat simulator), the troops go from dark to light from the ground up so they pop and are instantly readable in any lighting situation, add a tone gradient over your model like this.
You can do that right from the beginning when you block in your colours, as they go up the model mix them lighter and lighter; so by the time you get to the top of your Dark Model it isn't too dark, and it is "casting" a soft shadow on its lower potion.
Gives you more wriggle room for shading and highlighting either side of your middle-tone.
You can see Stabbington has his Unidrons lighter at the top, than the bottom of the model.
In addition his highlights and shadows have more contrast at the top than they do at the bottom, which fights the harsh light we see these models in most of the time.

Where the model is brightest, the shadow should be darkest.



Do this to maintain that contrast you'd otherwise get from washing the model later in the process, without flattening your work and sending it all back to the shadows.
When you are shading your model dark, I suggest you get comfortable with wet blending. Blend dark shades down your model and encourage those progressively lighter colour blocks to shade through near the top of each plate or leg or piece of the model you are currently doing.



These boots on some Haqq models I speed painted for a mate are just very light brown base then blue and black ink wet blended together with some of the still wet brown on top.

e> Am I any help? It would be much easier to show you than to describe it, not great at this.

ThreeLefts fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jul 28, 2015

Corbeau
Sep 13, 2010

Jack of All Trades
My poor Seraph! :gonk:

Played Supremacy tonight against Ariadna. It was a really close game, with an exceptional amount of death, and came down to the last order. My Seraph sort of did it's job - it denied roughly a quarter of the board - but it also got murdered by an Autocannon Tankhunter. My TAG went all the way to dead, straight through the double-disabled, which was a huge bummer to my engineer standing right next to it. Otherwise, I killed a bunch of his backline with my TO FO and he killed a bunch of my backline with an AD Spetznaz (stealth is really, really nasty on an AD trooper). We both missed taking out the other's Lt. by very narrow margins, which might have swung the game right there. I took the worst of the unit losses overall, especially with the Seraph going down, but I went second and thus had a scenario advantage. It was enough to squeeze out an ugly 5-3 win on scenario points.

Pics:


Table layout:




Bottom of Turn 2:

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?
I think I have decided on the Imperial Service Starter Pack. The models look so nice compared to GW, I forgot proportion was a thing.

ThreeLefts
Dec 27, 2012

Corbeau posted:

My poor Seraph! :gonk:

NOOOooo

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?

ThreeLefts posted:


e> Am I any help? It would be much easier to show you than to describe it, not great at this.

Yes! Thanks. I think a lot of my problem is not being able to see what I'm doing very well at the start and doing an early was should help that a lot. I've been trying not to do metallics on my Infinity as well and your post should be a lot of help.

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Comrade Merf
Jun 2, 2011

goodness posted:

I think I have decided on the Imperial Service Starter Pack. The models look so nice compared to GW, I forgot proportion was a thing.



Imperial Service is fun as hell. Just a word of warning the models in it are tiny manlets compared to the newer stuff and the guns they have are like two thirds larger than the newest stuff as well. Still fantastic models and a really great sectoral tho. Five man Wu-Ming link on Annihilation is so hosed up and crazy I love it.

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