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Today I worked on restoring the Stanley #3 I got off craigslist last week. I soaked it in some rust remover, epoxied the broken handle, polished up the brass a bit, sanded the remaining rust away and sharpened the iron. I didn't take a ton of pictures but here's a before:   And here's the after rust removal and some sanding:   I still have to sand the handle and tote some more and refinish them, I also haven't flattened the sole of the plane though I did sharpen the iron and it makes shavings so that's good at least. I need to straighten my sharpening job though because I have to swing the adjustment lever way over to get an even cut. Apparently it's a "Type 13" 1925-1928 style. I can also just barely make out the sweetheart logo on the iron so that part at least is a high end part. Tough to say if the whole thing is original or not though.
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Aug 2, 2015 05:39
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I've decided that I should take up woodworking in earnest, instead of just collecting tools for no apparent reason beyond the occasional use. I have a good square or two, a really cheap coping saw that I halfway know how to use, and a set of chisels/knives that I have no idea where they came from but I found in a drawer. They're pretty sharp (I wouldn't say scary sharp, but it takes a lot to scare me after moving to Japanese cutlery) and seem to work well enough. I've started teaching myself how to cut dovetails by hand, so far using just the coping saw and chisels. They're ok, but I feel like I could really use a better saw than a coping saw for the straight cuts. What saw should I look into for this? I've seen the $100+ dollar dovetail saws and that seems a bit more than I'd like to spend at this moment. Suggestions for the $0-50ish range? Would a douzuki be a better idea at this price range? Also I have basically no good surface to work on and I live in a tiny apartment with no room to build a decent bench. Are there good temporary/mobile solutions beyond my current plan of C-clamping things to a table in my yard?
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Aug 3, 2015 03:12
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I haven't tried mine (found some older saws shortly after buying this), but you could give this a try for your joinery stuff. Sounds like it's pretty good for dovetails, miters, etc. As for a portable bench? A Moravian is on my To-Do list, but that might not be too practical for apartment-living. Try making a saw-bench, maybe a pair. I'll likely make a pair similar to Chris Schwarz's at some point soon just so I can do some work while not in my garage (though this design is one I've had my eye on, as well. Still undecided).
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Aug 3, 2015 03:52
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Have you considered a Ryoba saw? Because you will want both a ripsaw and a crosscutting saw anyway. And using the right type of tooth makes it much easier to cut straight and without terrible tear out As a mobile workbench, have a look at a workmate type bench. The ones over 75cm wide with a foot rest make pretty versatile benches, especially with a few jigs. Should you buy a new one get more than the standard four bench dogs, they're like most clamps, you always need one more than you have.
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Aug 3, 2015 04:22
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Olothreutes posted:I've decided that I should take up woodworking in earnest, instead of just collecting tools for no apparent reason beyond the occasional use. I have a good square or two, a really cheap coping saw that I halfway know how to use, and a set of chisels/knives that I have no idea where they came from but I found in a drawer. They're pretty sharp (I wouldn't say scary sharp, but it takes a lot to scare me after moving to Japanese cutlery) and seem to work well enough. I've started teaching myself how to cut dovetails by hand, so far using just the coping saw and chisels. They're ok, but I feel like I could really use a better saw than a coping saw for the straight cuts. What saw should I look into for this? I've seen the $100+ dollar dovetail saws and that seems a bit more than I'd like to spend at this moment. Suggestions for the $0-50ish range? Would a douzuki be a better idea at this price range? Would heartily recommend something like this for a dovetailing saw http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Gyokucho-303-Tatebiki-Rip-Dovetail-Dozuki-240mm.html#SID=41 Very sharp, high quality, fine kerf, cheap enough to replace if you bend it. Bends easily, which is the only problem.
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Aug 3, 2015 18:44
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I finished my cherry arts & crafts coffee table. First time drawboring, went pretty good. 
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Aug 5, 2015 01:25
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I finished my cherry arts & crafts coffee table. First time drawboring, went pretty good. Verrrry noice. Did you design it?
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Aug 5, 2015 01:30
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Thanks, not quite an original design, it was inspired by this table I found online.
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Aug 5, 2015 01:50
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, not quite an original design, it was inspired by this table I found online. You should look into copyrighting yours, it's much better. I think it's brilliant, and I'm drat hard to please.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:35
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Speaking of tables here's one I just made for my mom. I did a pretty lovely job on the finish but I like the overall shape.    There was a big blob of pitch on the top of the panel that made an ugly light coloured splotch on the table top and I didn't manage to get rid of all the glue drips on the legs so there's some lines running down. Good practice I guess. For the glue drips it didn't seem like they were readily coming out with sanding. Should I have taped the areas below the joints to avoid that or maybe scraped the glue away when it was at a certain point of the drying process? I've read some conflicting opinions from various sources but this particular glue I was using seemed to soak in to the pine quite a bit and be tough to sand out.
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Aug 5, 2015 03:00
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Anyone have advice for a finish for cocobolo? I just finished a nightstand lamp I made with it and it looks like oil based finishes are a no no with this type of wood. It looks good unfinished and it's not going to be getting handled much, but I've read that this type of wood will just turn dark and lose the color contrast over time, and it has a good mix of light and dark colors that would probably pop with some finish. From my googling the most common advice seems to suggest using some denatured alcohol to remove the natural surface oil then use shellac. Any thoughts on this? I still have to get a proper shade for it if anyone knows where the hell to look for one. Have had no luck online or at world market etc finding a spider attachment shade that isn't huge living room lamp sized. Thanks!
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Aug 5, 2015 03:56
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nosleep posted:Anyone have advice for a finish for cocobolo? I just finished a nightstand lamp I made with it and it looks like oil based finishes are a no no with this type of wood. It looks good unfinished and it's not going to be getting handled much, but I've read that this type of wood will just turn dark and lose the color contrast over time, and it has a good mix of light and dark colors that would probably pop with some finish. From my googling the most common advice seems to suggest using some denatured alcohol to remove the natural surface oil then use shellac. Any thoughts on this? I still have to get a proper shade for it if anyone knows where the hell to look for one. Have had no luck online or at world market etc finding a spider attachment shade that isn't huge living room lamp sized. Thanks! Shellac sounds good, or you might think about a water-based urethane. I've got a set of living room tables I built 25 years ago (walnut) that I used that on, and it has not darkened at all. Of course, walnut is not an oily exotic, however...
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Aug 5, 2015 14:41
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I've never had problems finishing cocobolo. Shellac or poly both work fine. But no matter what, the color is going to darken with time. If I need to glue it I always wipe it down with mineral spirits first.
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Aug 5, 2015 15:22
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So the piano is almost ready for actual,construction. The new stain on the outside is going to be a dark walnut type stain. I'm thinking of doing a light wood for the bar too and internal sides. Any suggestions on relatively affordable light colored wood that would contrast nicely? Please don't say oak.
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Aug 6, 2015 04:58
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Birch, light in color and a well suited wood for furniture, cheapest most common furniture hardwood in Finland. But I am not sure the same applies to where you are, I think it might be considered a rare wood down south and not commonly used. Hard maple perhaps, I know you got that further south. Beech?
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Aug 6, 2015 06:03
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What would be a good sharpening kit for a begginer? I'm not wishing to spend a fortune but I think I want stones (that could/would also be used to sharpen kitchen knife if this is at all possible). From what I've read you can start with a 800 and a 4000 stone but I don't know if this is right and what brands to look for. I'm willing to spend somewhere between 50 and 100$ I guess. If this is not enough I'll probably just postpone this I've tried the sand paper route and it's not working out for me. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 14:33
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I just grabbed three diamond plates and have done okay from there. I've got three EZE-LAP stones: Coarse (250 grit), Fine (600 grit), & Super-Fine (1200 grit). A Paul Sellers video on sharpening them made me go that route after a bit of irritation with sandpaper  That said, EZE-LAP ones were $50 a pop when I got them off Amazon.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ykVzL2VAM
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Aug 6, 2015 14:47
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Geop posted:I just grabbed three diamond plates and have done okay from there. I've got three EZE-LAP stones: Coarse (250 grit), Fine (600 grit), & Super-Fine (1200 grit). A Paul Sellers video on sharpening them made me go that route after a bit of irritation with sandpaper would something like this be sufficient (1200-600 grit) for chisels and kitchen knives? http://www.amazon.ca/EZE-LAP-DD8SF-Diamond-Sharpening-Included/dp/B002RL84FS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1438869434&sr=8-7&keywords=eze-lap KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 14:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:Birch, light in color and a well suited wood for furniture, cheapest most common furniture hardwood in Finland. But I am not sure the same applies to where you are, I think it might be considered a rare wood down south and not commonly used. What he said about birch and soft southern maple or birple. They're pretty interchangeable at lumber yards..and inoffensive...I don't think beech is so available around these parts....looks at map of SW U.S.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:02
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I am thinking rather than make a table as my first project, I should probably make something small. I'm wanting to make custom inserts for board games. What's a very light, cheap wood that can be found in thin sheets or strips that is not balsa? I do want it to be somewhat sturdy.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:16
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signalnoise posted:I am thinking rather than make a table as my first project, I should probably make something small. I'm wanting to make custom inserts for board games. What's a very light, cheap wood that can be found in thin sheets or strips that is not balsa? I do want it to be somewhat sturdy. Plywood. Light+cheap+sturdy+thin basically is just plywood.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:28
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Sweet thanks
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Aug 6, 2015 15:36
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KingColliwog posted:What would be a good sharpening kit for a begginer? I'm not wishing to spend a fortune but I think I want stones (that could/would also be used to sharpen kitchen knife if this is at all possible). From what I've read you can start with a 800 and a 4000 stone but I don't know if this is right and what brands to look for. I'm willing to spend somewhere between 50 and 100$ I guess. If this is not enough I'll probably just postpone this I've got my eye on these diamond plates for 20$ a pop http://bestsharpeningstones.com/Diamond_Sharpening_Stones.htm I'm not sure as to quality... I bought a Norton Crystolon Bench Stone 8" x 3" (Coarse) http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Crystolon-Bench-Stone-8-x-3-P24.aspx And 3M Micro Abrasive Film - PSA - Set 2 sheets each 15,5, and .3 from https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/ST-MAF.FWWKit/3M_Micro_Abrasive_Film_-_PSA_-_Set_2_sheets_each_15,5,_and_.3_micron Based on the recommendation and instructions on this site http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/benchstone.html#stone I also bought an 8"x2" soft Arkansas stone at the loving flea market that glazes over pretty quickly and some stropping rouge that I put on a cheap pig skin leather belt cemented to a chipboard bookshelf shelf Dovo Strop Paste, Red and Black Two Part Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LY40Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Iu3WvbJHVMBWX
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Aug 6, 2015 15:57
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KingColliwog posted:What would be a good sharpening kit for a begginer? I'm not wishing to spend a fortune but I think I want stones (that could/would also be used to sharpen kitchen knife if this is at all possible). From what I've read you can start with a 800 and a 4000 stone but I don't know if this is right and what brands to look for. I'm willing to spend somewhere between 50 and 100$ I guess. If this is not enough I'll probably just postpone this Don't get caught up in the sharpening products marketing. You should be sharpening to task. Most projects don't need more than 250 grit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbAo4RpM7oM I'm very happy with my eze-lap diamond stones but pretty much any diamond plate should work. You could start with a coarse stone (250 grit), maybe a fine stone (600-1000) and some green honing compound for stropping on a piece of leather to polish the bevel. Later on add a super fine stone (1200+) if you feel like it.
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Aug 6, 2015 19:36
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I had a full set of Norton water stones. 220 through 8000 grit. They work great and will give you a scalpel sharp mirror edge. I used them for 2 years with no complaints other than they are slow to use. I was given a set of DMT stones this last xmas. course, fine, xfine. I can sharpen probably about 10 times faster on DMTs compared to Nortons. Just as loving sharp too.
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Aug 6, 2015 20:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:What he said about birch and soft southern maple or birple. They're pretty interchangeable at lumber yards..and inoffensive...I don't think beech is so available around these parts....looks at map of SW U.S. +1 for maple.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:13
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Euro Beech is a pretty good light colored substitute, you'd have to check the availability near you but it's about as common as red oak and maple around here. Made some treads out of it earlier this week: And the obligatory need more clamps picture of them gluing up: 
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Aug 7, 2015 03:09
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Anyone heard of a technique like this before? I just made a workbench and slapped it together from three 2x8s, a lamination like that with wide boards wasn't easy to keep from curling but a friend told me of a method that was used here in the 1700s when according to him, furniture with wide boards was in fashion. The woodworkers then would make a dovetailed groove on the bottom of the bench top, but they'd make it a wedge shape, narrower in one end. Then they'd custom fit a wedge that fit into this groove and drive it into place and saw off the excess. This would hold a bench stop straight and prevent it from warping. You could put in several and according to him it's more efficient than bread board ends at accomplishing its task. Never heard or seen this method used anywhere, so I figured I'd describe it and see if it sounds familiar to anyone.
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Aug 7, 2015 04:47
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The guys on the Fine Woodworking podcast were talking about doing something like that with sliding dovetails on a wide tabletop that a listener had asked a question about. Think it was the latest one. Also I've seen Roy Underhill talk about doing similar in one of his shows. Couldn't tell you which though.
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Aug 7, 2015 05:04
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His Divine Shadow posted:Anyone heard of a technique like this before? I just made a workbench and slapped it together from three 2x8s, a lamination like that with wide boards wasn't easy to keep from curling but a friend told me of a method that was used here in the 1700s when according to him, furniture with wide boards was in fashion. The woodworkers then would make a dovetailed groove on the bottom of the bench top, but they'd make it a wedge shape, narrower in one end. Then they'd custom fit a wedge that fit into this groove and drive it into place and saw off the excess. This would hold a bench stop straight and prevent it from warping. You could put in several and according to him it's more efficient than bread board ends at accomplishing its task. It's called a batten, specifically you are talking about a sliding dovetail batten. About halfway down the page http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/sliding-dovetail-joints/
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Aug 7, 2015 05:41
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Awesome, thanks for that 
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Aug 7, 2015 05:53
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ImplicitAssembler posted:+1 for maple. Okay I will look around for maple. Now the next question, should I lay the laminated boards sideways so the grain ripens across or lay them front to back. There is a raised section in general middle to accommodate the wine fridge so it's not a single span, it's 16 inches, 6 inch rise, 23 inches, 6 inch drop, 16 inches.
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Aug 7, 2015 05:56
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I want to build a small workbench in my basement for working on guns and hobby stuff like building models and small electronics repairs and stuff. I want to put a 4 or 5 inch vise on it for holding stuff in place and removing barrels from guns. Would a 3/4" plywood top be enough to support the vise? Also is there an advantage of using something like a simpson tie on the corners of the bench as opposed to just screwing them together?
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Aug 7, 2015 13:50
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Whale Cancer posted:I want to build a small workbench in my basement for working on guns and hobby stuff like building models and small electronics repairs and stuff. I want to put a 4 or 5 inch vise on it for holding stuff in place and removing barrels from guns. 3/4" will be just fine. I suggested bolting the vise in place. My bench is screwed together.
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Aug 7, 2015 13:57
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Okay I will look around for maple. Now the next question, should I lay the laminated boards sideways so the grain ripens across or lay them front to back. Ive already forgotten what you're going for, is there a diagram? Not sure of the meaning of your question...
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Aug 7, 2015 14:45
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While a far cry from a DIY project, this is pretty cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z0SsAyHKzc
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Aug 7, 2015 23:01
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Reorganizing my shop to get more space. My idea this time is to replace my fold-down outfeed table with my router table instead. I figured why not, the router table will sit fine behind the table saw and the router table will have more support surface as well. I wonder why I haven't seen anyone do this before... Almost everyone puts the router extension to the side on the table saw instead, but I think this setup has some real advantages, it doubles your router table as an outfeed table and your table saw doubles as an infeed table for your router, saving space and also locating the router in a place where there should be ample space around it on all sides. A problem I had with my router table where it sat against the wall next to my drill press, was I never had space on the sides, I had to drag it out from the wall to use it with any bigger pieces. Now there should always be space. One issue here is that the router fence can get in the way, but mine is meant to be removed and reattached quickly so I don't forsee a problem. And I can also simplify the dust collection ducting this way.
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Aug 9, 2015 08:20
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I think mostly they tend to be put to the side so you don't have to double up on fences. E: but given how useful a split fence can be for a router but not for a table saw, I'm not sure that's terribly useful.
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Aug 9, 2015 09:31
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Great thread, thanks for all the informative content everybody. I'm getting started in woodworking by refinishing an old Lane Acclaim coffee table. Don't have pictures of the before process, but I stripped the old finish with Citri-strip and then hand sanded lightly with 150 then 220  The middle is walnut veneer and the outside is solid (oak?). Like around half the people that restore these things, I sanded off the stain on the solid part and don't really like the high contrast look. I suspect its supposed to look more like this one I found online:  Any suggestions for how I should go about finishing the tabletop to get back the old color? Obviously it is going to involve some stain, but I've never done this before and am concerned that if I try to stain the whole thing I'll discolor the walnut to something I don't like, and if I try to just stain the light wood some of it will leak over into the walnut and look dumb. Also I know nothing about finishing products after staining. I'd like to avoid too much of a plasticky look, ie heavy polyurethane. Any suggestions on something that will provide a durable finish, is relatively easy to apply, and will look mostly natural? EDIT: The one in that internet picture seems to have stained the legs in a way that really doesn't match the top. My legs are in relatively good condition and are stained a pretty close match to the walnut veneer top, just a bit shinier than what I have now. At most I plan to strip and refinish the legs to match whatever new finish I go with, but don't want to sand out the stain and have to try and match them with the walnut top. mcgreenvegtables fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 22:32
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Great thread, thanks for all the informative content everybody. Well, since no one else has stepped forward re: the test aspect, try flipping it over and using the bottom. As far as what product to use, there is a ton of advice in the thread.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:21
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