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I'm not sure if a jack will release fast enough for something like that to work but I can give it a shot. Also wondering if there could be something going on with the seat itself that's exacerbating things. Gonna mess around with it more today to see if I can figure it out. It's such a weird feeling in the car and I'm hoping it's something simple like shocks (even if it is expensive) rather than some weird mystery thing that's impossible to figure out.
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Aug 2, 2015 15:55
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I was going to do a write up with pictures and everything on my stereo install but I got too caught up in the actual installation part to remember to take pictures so gently caress it, look at what I did. So I bought one of these, a Pioneer Appradio 4 head unit along with the following parts: Metra wiring harness Metra dash faceplate kit Metra ASWC Steering Wheel Control Adapter A pack of tiny toggle switches A flush mount USB/HDMI port I got started by removing the factory head unit, then soldering the wires from the new Pioneer wiring harness to the Metra wiring harness. All the colors matched so that was no big deal and finished it off with heat shrink. The ASWC connects to the head unit via a headphone-jack like connection instead of the harness, so I had to splice a wire from the ASWC into a wire in the factory harness. Also another wire from the ASWC into a ground wire. Then I plugged it into the back of the head unit. The head unit has two USB ports on the back so I ran the included USB extension cable through the side of the stereo cavity into the glove box. I connected everything and tried it out, works great. Now on to the fun part. I wanted this to look mostly factory so I didn't want to have a USB and HDMI cable hanging out of my glove box every time I want to use AppRadio mode so I bought the above mentioned flush mount USB/HDMI port. I popped out the cigarette lighter because I don't need it if I have a USB port anyway. The USB/HDMI unit was a perfect fit. It comes with a large securing nut that goes around the back of it and I secured it tightly. Then I ran the cables through the back of the cavity and connected them to the ports on the back of the head unit. AppRadio mode requires the parking brake to be engaged in order to start it up but I say gently caress that. I don't want to have to pull over to enter an address into Waze. Handbrake requirements are easy to bypass by just grounding the wire you're supposed to connect to the handbrake switch. Except AppRadio mode requires you to engage, disengage, then engage the brake to prove you didn't bypass it. That's where that little pack of switches comes in. I connected the brake detection wire to one contact on the switch, and connected the other to a ground wire. Then I just flip the switch back and forth when entering AppRadio mode so it will let me in. Then just leave the switch on so it thinks the handbrake is always on. The car has its own aux port but there isn't a good way to hook that up to a third party head unit so I pulled that unit out of the dash and gutted the electronics from it (it's a small circuit board, connector, and jack). I then dremeled a hole above the aux jack hole for the switch to snap into. Then I took the aux wire included with the head unit and jammed it tightly into the aux port dash unit, ran the brake wires through the back out the upper hole, connected them to the switch, snapped the switch in, and snapped the unit back into the dash.  Everything works and everything looks really clean and factory. As for the head unit, it's really cool. It has Apple CarPlay and regular AppRadio mode. CarPlay just uses USB, while AppRadio uses a combo of Bluetooth, USB, and HDMI. Each mode has its strengths and weaknesses. There just aren't enough CarPlay compatible apps yet but the apps that are there are really slick. AppRadio mode looks less refined but more apps. In particular, DashCommand (ODBII) and Waze only work on AppRadio mode. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 19:15
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My future father-in-law is thinking about selling his Miata. It's a '93 that he's owned since new with 47k miles on it. I'm pretty sure it's never been driven in the rain. I'd buy it myself, but no garage at the moment.  Is $5k a fair asking price?     Car is located in southern PA in case the location matters that much.
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Aug 2, 2015 19:53
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If it's really rust free with that low of mileage in the northeast I'd say 5k or even 6k is fair.
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Aug 2, 2015 20:08
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MrLogan posted:My future father-in-law is thinking about selling his Miata. It's a '93 that he's owned since new with 47k miles on it. I'm pretty sure it's never been driven in the rain. I'd buy it myself, but no garage at the moment. Crazy Miata prices the way they are and with there being no non rusty miatas in PA I'd probably ask 8k or so. There's bound to be some one who is willing to pay the premium for a clean on like that. I don't live in PA though so I don't know if you're market is as crazy as ours.
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Aug 2, 2015 20:10
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Yeah I'd start unreasonably high and see what happens, you can always lower it. That's a really clean Miata, someone would probably pay a lot for it in PA.
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Aug 2, 2015 22:19
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I just put these ridiculous vinyl stripes on because it obviously makes it go faster, and trackday's tomorrow. 
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Aug 2, 2015 23:05
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GutBomb posted:I was going to do a write up with pictures and everything on my stereo install but I got too caught up in the actual installation part to remember to take pictures so gently caress it, look at what I did. Man, I want to do this so bad for my android phone and put all the cabling into an IL motorsports center console so everything is hidden. My only concern at this point is loving rear end in a top hat thieves seeing that huge screen and knifing my top to jack my stereo. Houston has areas that are notorious for car burglaries, so much so that there is a term for it 'Montrose Diamonds'. The area is montrose, and the diamonds are all the shattered window glass bits on the ground. Great write up, btw. You should take some vids of it working and post that poo poo  E: about that metra faceplate kit; does the stereo bolt to that very securely? Metra makes some real dogshit in my opinion. I just don't want a $600 radio bouncing around in there like what used to be in my wife's civic before I mounted it properly. What holds the back of the radio up? did you use the hidden bolt way up on the left side to secure it? BloodBag fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 3, 2015 |
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Aug 3, 2015 00:03
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BloodBag posted:Man, I want to do this so bad for my android phone and put all the cabling into an IL motorsports center console so everything is hidden. My only concern at this point is loving rear end in a top hat thieves seeing that huge screen and knifing my top to jack my stereo. Houston has areas that are notorious for car burglaries, so much so that there is a term for it 'Montrose Diamonds'. The area is montrose, and the diamonds are all the shattered window glass bits on the ground. Does car stereo theft still happen? Most new head units don't even come with detachable faceplates anymore. I'm not worried about it, but I park in a garage at home and a parking garage at work. As for securing, the head unit bolts in 3 places on the Metra side rails. It's really quite solid. There's also a lot of wiring with the new unit so there's not a lot of room for the unit to move around. I had to maneuver the mess of wires around with a long screwdriver to even get the unit in the cavity. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Aug 3, 2015 |
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Aug 3, 2015 00:39
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GutBomb posted:I was going to do a write up with pictures and everything on my stereo install but I got too caught up in the actual installation part to remember to take pictures so gently caress it, look at what I did. I want to do something like this but there's too many other issues the car needs to have addressed first.
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Aug 3, 2015 00:48
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GutBomb posted:Does car stereo theft still happen? Most new head units don't even come with detachable faceplates anymore. I'm not worried about it, but I park in a garage at home and a parking garage at work. Somehow, yes. Stolen out of my old Civic 2 years ago, and they ripped the poo poo out of the dash to do it. Resale being what it is, I cannot imagine they got more than $10 for a nearly decade-old head unit.
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Aug 3, 2015 03:53
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Sadi posted:So I just had my first light go out on an NA. What do you guys replace them with? I think I had heard HELLA E codes or something? I went with Cibie E-codes from Amazon and they are so, so much better than stock.
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Aug 3, 2015 06:10
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TheNothingNew posted:Somehow, yes. Stolen out of my old Civic 2 years ago, and they ripped the poo poo out of the dash to do it. Resale being what it is, I cannot imagine they got more than $10 for a nearly decade-old head unit. I got an awful looking Blaupunkt unit that still does bluetooth and the fancy stuff in hopes it doesn't look worth stealing. But crackheads will be crackeads so I still leave the doors unlocked to try and save the top.
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Aug 3, 2015 07:34
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powderific posted:Just picked up an 04 MSM just like one I traded off five years ago and I'm pretty stoked, but I have a weird ride quality issue that I definitely don't remember from my last one. Basically, when I go over bumps (mostly at 20-45 mph so far, haven't gotten it on the interstate yet), it feels like there's a fast echo to the bump, or a shudder, that I mostly feel in the seat/seatback. It's like I'm getting low frequency vibration right in the kidneys after every bump. The feeling is really weird and actually makes me feel nauseous of all things. I have an 05 MSM; I'm having a hard time visualizing what you're describing. The car definitely has a hard ride (moreso with the stock rims; replace them ASAP if you still have them!) I may have gotten used to the ride over the past few years, but I've never experienced any nauseating ride qualities like you've described. It does kind of vibrate after going over bumps, but I haven't gotten to the root of my own ride quality issues (although again, the wheels were a significant factor.) I wish there was a Miata expert nearby who could take mine for a spin and diagnose it. ionn posted:I just put these ridiculous vinyl stripes on because it obviously makes it go faster, and trackday's tomorrow. drat, son, that's like +7 hp right there! I'm so jealous....
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Aug 3, 2015 07:36
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GutBomb posted:AppRadio mode requires the parking brake to be engaged in order to start it up but I say gently caress that. I don't want to have to pull over to enter an address into Waze. Handbrake requirements are easy to bypass by just grounding the wire you're supposed to connect to the handbrake switch. Except AppRadio mode requires you to engage, disengage, then engage the brake to prove you didn't bypass it. That's where that little pack of switches comes in. I connected the brake detection wire to one contact on the switch, and connected the other to a ground wire. Then I just flip the switch back and forth when entering AppRadio mode so it will let me in. Then just leave the switch on so it thinks the handbrake is always on. This is clever.
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Aug 3, 2015 10:01
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88h88 posted:This is clever. I think I'd wire up a button style switch that was set up to be grounded while unpushed, so not pushing it is like having the parking brake in the 'on' position. Then it would only be a push or two instead of rolling a toggle switch back and forth.
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Aug 3, 2015 15:01
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Atomizer posted:I have an 05 MSM; I'm having a hard time visualizing what you're describing. The car definitely has a hard ride (moreso with the stock rims; replace them ASAP if you still have them!) I may have gotten used to the ride over the past few years, but I've never experienced any nauseating ride qualities like you've described. It does kind of vibrate after going over bumps, but I haven't gotten to the root of my own ride quality issues (although again, the wheels were a significant factor.) I wish there was a Miata expert nearby who could take mine for a spin and diagnose it. I've taken the car out again on the interstate since and have a better idea of how it feels. It's worse at speed. It's like sharp bumps have an aftershock, mostly in the upper body of the car. The initial bump is fine but the aftershocks remind me of going over a washboard road in a pickup truck. Since I had a MSM before I was expecting the rougher ride, but this is something out of whack for sure. It's nauseating because the whole body of the car seem to shake sortof rotationally so it's flicking the seats side to side. Things I've read about that I feel like could be a factor:
For now, I'm planning on putting new tires on it at minimum and then seeing if a shop has any ideas on the shudder. I imagine that the next step would be coilers and an alignment, followed by bushings since that's so time consuming.
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Aug 3, 2015 15:33
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You've probably already though of it but are the springs original? When I briefly had shorter than stock springs on the back of my NA the hit on the bump stops punched real hard and sounded fairly unhealthy too. (I'm now running low on front, high on back until I finally drop the cash on some decent suspension  )
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Aug 3, 2015 15:45
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powderific posted:I've taken the car out again on the interstate since and have a better idea of how it feels. It's worse at speed. Does your car have a clean title? Has it been in a wreck?
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Aug 3, 2015 15:51
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Clean title, hasn't been in a wreck. Not sure how to check on whether the springs are original. edit: also, when NOT going over bumps the car feels solid and not rattly or anything.
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Aug 3, 2015 15:53
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Sounds like you have a combination of something, like blown shocks and bad springs/bushings or something. Get under the car with a flashlight and look for anything obvious like leaking shocks or blown out bushings, anything that looks out of place.
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Aug 3, 2015 16:06
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Talked to someone on Miata.net who had a problem that sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing and for him it was the bushings. Gonna check that and the shocks well as I can to see if that's it.
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Aug 3, 2015 17:26
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Nocheez posted:I think I'd wire up a button style switch that was set up to be grounded while unpushed, so not pushing it is like having the parking brake in the 'on' position. Then it would only be a push or two instead of rolling a toggle switch back and forth. I'd do something like this and automate that poo poo.
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Aug 3, 2015 17:45
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FatCow posted:I'm curious to know why the 99-00 head is more desireable.
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Aug 4, 2015 01:54
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I'm not reading past the first post but.quote:The new engine will be put into a roadster project that we're building. Windshield frame cut off like an EP but it'll be street legal. We made 191whp on E85 with a BP4W head but I really want the low end torque that a BP6D makes. So we're building an experimental CNC head with +2mm O/S Inconel exhaust valves. Our research to date indicates this is the way to go for big power in a BP head. For cams we'll first try Tomei .426/252°IN, .410,256°EX cams with 33/34mm base circles. Pretty sure those are too short to breath much past 8000rpm but I would like to be proven wrong. On paper at least, they should idle a bunch better than the 272/266° in it now. At the same time, we're having a custom set of BP6D cams made with about the same .425IN/.410EX lift but with something like 270-266° duration. It will be interesting to see what the extra duration does to power and idle quality. Also, that is like a 15k motor he's talking about there. With the VVTuner out for ~$200 I don't see a real reason to not use a VVT head if the option is there.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:41
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Finally managed to hobbyfuck together enough of my rear brake adjustment with the brake adjustment screws I had left. Stupid brake shops loving up the calipers.IOwnCalculus posted:I'd do something like this and automate that poo poo. Yeah, that's an $8 Discovery board (or a $12 Teensy) and a relay board away from being a push button problem solver. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 03:49
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FatCow posted:I'm not reading past the first post but. Cliff notes, stock bottom end, 0.060 head shave, cams, valve springs, rb header, itbs and EMS are enough for 160-170whp. VVT doesn't matter much. Read the thread. destructo fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 04:41
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powderific posted:I've taken the car out again on the interstate since and have a better idea of how it feels. It's worse at speed. It's like sharp bumps have an aftershock, mostly in the upper body of the car. The initial bump is fine but the aftershocks remind me of going over a washboard road in a pickup truck. Since I had a MSM before I was expecting the rougher ride, but this is something out of whack for sure. It's nauseating because the whole body of the car seem to shake sortof rotationally so it's flicking the seats side to side. Hmm, I don't quite have what you're describing. It does vibrate in bumps, but not as horrendously as you're describing. What my car has is mainly vibration at about 35 mph; it's better the further I am from that speed in either direction. I've heard of other Miatas with this issue (at that particular speed, for some reason) and I've had the same vibration with both the current set of wheels and the stock ones. This leads me to believe the issue is with the car (suspension, etc.) instead of more bent rims (and the rims are new.) I'd strongly suggest taking it to a shop and asking for a full inspection, with particular attention paid to your list. Your problem, I think, is more likely suspension/chassis related rather than something like the alignment. I take it you have the stock rims then? I know they're a different style of Racing Hart on the '04, and I think they only weigh about a pound less each so they're still heavy. I strongly recommend switching to 15s, for ride quality and tire selection, first of all.
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Aug 4, 2015 05:38
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destructo posted:Ok. Doesn't sound bad, but I wonder how the costs would compare to a K series swap.
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Aug 4, 2015 07:34
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Well, a K-Swap is just straight up better
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Aug 4, 2015 07:49
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leica posted:Doesn't sound bad, but I wonder how the costs would compare to a K series swap. Why do that when you can put in a light V6? http://www.superfastmiatas.com/JV6%20Miata%20Kit.html
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Aug 4, 2015 15:09
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150lb-ish weight penalty, better aftermarket support for the K motor in general, fitting a V6 is dumb when you can just put in a Coyote or LS. Got my VIN (not from the dealer). 2 more months...
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Aug 4, 2015 16:50
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Atomizer posted:Hmm, I don't quite have what you're describing. It does vibrate in bumps, but not as horrendously as you're describing. What my car has is mainly vibration at about 35 mph; it's better the further I am from that speed in either direction. I've heard of other Miatas with this issue (at that particular speed, for some reason) and I've had the same vibration with both the current set of wheels and the stock ones. This leads me to believe the issue is with the car (suspension, etc.) instead of more bent rims (and the rims are new.) Yeah, I found someone on Miata.net who was having the exact same thing and for him it was badly worn bushings. New bushings fixed it. We'll see what the shop says while it's in, but the way he described his issue was spot on to my experience (including it being a nauseating type thing) so I'm betting that's it. Already have 15" TRM C1's on the way, so I'm covered there.
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Aug 4, 2015 16:53
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Nodoze posted:Well, a K-Swap is just straight up better Well yeah, that's why I'm wondering. No point spending a shitload to get NA power out of a BP if I can just swap in a stock K series for even a couple grand more. But I dunno, I could do without the ITBs and probably still get around 150 hp which is fine with me. But then I might as well just swap in a VVT motor. A K series swap runs around 8 to 9k, could probably do a VVT swap for half that. [edit] Or just buy a loving 02+ NB and be done with it. Wrar posted:Why do that when you can put in a light V6? http://www.superfastmiatas.com/JV6%20Miata%20Kit.html Wow, The V6s are dirt cheap compared to the K series looks like a good alternative, but yeah what Phone said. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 16:57
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leica posted:A K series swap runs around 8 to 9k, could probably do a VVT swap for half that. What math are you using??? K Engines are cheap as poo poo even if the swap kit is 3500 bucks
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Aug 4, 2015 17:01
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Got it from the website bro. Kit doesn't include everything, after their custom header, ECU and a tune their estimate sounds about right. Kmiata posted:What is the total cost of a K series conversion, and how much power will I make?
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Aug 4, 2015 17:05
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Atomizer posted:Finally, here's a shot from that first scene; what's wrong with this picture? So nobody noticed that this dude has a NC MSM. 
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Aug 5, 2015 08:10
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Atomizer posted:So nobody noticed that this dude has a NC MSM. I did. Long gone are the days of me getting butthurt about people sticking ///M or AMG or TIMBO badges on their cars anymore, I just don't give a poo poo. Brian's riceboy page was pretty neat back in 2000, maybe post this there?
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Aug 5, 2015 11:13
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I have mazdaspeed floor mats on my NA because they shipped them to me that way from a website. (I just ordered ones for "1997-2005 MX5 Miata"). Try not to have a stroke if you sit in it.
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Aug 5, 2015 12:43
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Atomizer posted:So nobody noticed that this dude has a NC MSM.
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Aug 5, 2015 15:13
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