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Scrub the details (IP addresses and passwords) and post what configuration details they gave you. Type of connection, any tunnel/IKE/esp details, etc. No shared secrets or IPs here though. What type of internet connection do you have on hand? Business class? Do you have a static IP? Site-to-site typically implies a tunnel configuration, and you'll ideally want a static IP and a decent piece of hardware to do it. Walked fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 19:22
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We have a static IP with fairly decent internet speed 40mbit/s up/down. We also happen to have a Windows server in our network, it just runs a web application at the moment. It only has one network card/port, if that matters. pre:Elisabeth Gateway x.x.x.x (their public ip) Customer/supplier Gateway x.x.x.x (our public ip) Pre-shared key will be sent over SMS Phase 1 Authentication Method Pre-Shared Key DH Group 5 Encryption Algorithm AES-256 Hash Algorithm SHA-1 Lifetime 28800 seconds Mode Main Mode Phase 2 PFS DH 5 Encrytion Algorithm AES-256 Authentication Algorithm SHA-1 Lifetime 3600 seconds Encryption Domain x.x.x.x/23 (their internal subnet I'm guessing)
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Aug 4, 2015 19:34
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So we just closed an office and my boss said I can help myself to the leftover networking hardware. Any reason why I shouldn't use the Sonicwall TZ200 at home? I currently have a Netgear WNDR3700 running DDWRT that I can convert into an AP. The 10/100 thing kind of sucks but I have a gigabit switch I can use as a kind of backbone.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:08
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I take it that power line LAN is going to suck in a 1920's apartment? We are in all likelihood moving into an apartment from that era, and the fiber socket is right at the entrance, and minimizing ugly cabling would be awesome.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:49
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LmaoTheKid posted:So we just closed an office and my boss said I can help myself to the leftover networking hardware. Any reason why I shouldn't use the Sonicwall TZ200 at home? I currently have a Netgear WNDR3700 running DDWRT that I can convert into an AP. Sell your Sonicwall to slyo up there so he can setup a Site-to-Site VPN and keep rocking along with your Netgear. Win-win! Don't forget to transfer it from the existing Sonicwall account over to the new owner (yourself or poor slyo who needs some way to anchor a site-to-site VPN which Sonicwalls are pretty drat decent at).
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Aug 4, 2015 20:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:I take it that power line LAN is going to suck in a 1920's apartment? We are in all likelihood moving into an apartment from that era, and the fiber socket is right at the entrance, and minimizing ugly cabling would be awesome. Eh, I'd order some from amazon to try out. If they suck, return em.
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Aug 4, 2015 22:32
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slyo posted:We have a static IP with fairly decent internet speed 40mbit/s up/down. Ok, this is definitely IPSec site-to-site The EdgeRouter will do this. $100. Configuration can be a bit tricky but not too bad. http://i-py.com/connecting-ubiquiti-edgerouter-to-aws-vpc/
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Aug 4, 2015 22:42
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Eh, I'd order some from amazon to try out. If they suck, return em. Do this, but if they haven't upgraded the wiring since the 1920s, powerline networking would be the least of my electrical worries.
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Aug 4, 2015 22:43
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Inspector_666 posted:Do this, but if they haven't upgraded the wiring since the 1920s, powerline networking would be the least of my electrical worries. Yeah I'm pretty sure they have. I mean they must have. I might as well give it a go. Pretty expensive solution, but if it works I guess it's worth it.
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Aug 5, 2015 09:18
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CuddleChunks posted:Sell your Sonicwall to slyo up there so he can setup a Site-to-Site VPN and keep rocking along with your Netgear. Win-win! I'm from the Netherlands, this would be too much hassle with shipping overseas Walked posted:Ok, this is definitely IPSec site-to-site Thanks, ordered an EdgeRouter Lite. I've had other suggestions but they more expensive and have bad reviews. This one seems solid.
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Aug 5, 2015 12:58
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slyo posted:I'm from the Netherlands, this would be too much hassle with shipping overseas Make sure you update the firmware step #1; they have some pretty huge changes in the web GUI right off the bat. Post here if you have any questions with initial setup (or getting a tunnel up and running); the newest firmware has a wizard for basic setup but its not completely intuitive. Once you get up and running it is super powerful.
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Aug 5, 2015 13:21
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i connect to the internet through my wireless connection. i connect my computer to my NAS directly through a gigabit ethernet connection (i can't connect it to my router so i had to make it an external drive via the ethernet port basically). is there a way to have my NAS connect to the internet through that wireless connection? like, could i share the wireless internet connection to my wired connection somehow? is that bridging? sharing? something else?
abelwingnut fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 06:19
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Abel Wingnut posted:i connect to the internet through my wireless connection. i connect my computer to my NAS directly through a gigabit ethernet connection (i can't connect it to my router so i had to make it an external drive via the ethernet port basically). is there a way to have my NAS connect to the internet through that wireless connection? like, could i share the wireless internet connection to my wired connection somehow? is that bridging? sharing? something else? What os are you using? Edit: if you are using Win7 this should do the trick http://www.countrymilewifi.com/how-to-share-computers-wifi-with-ethernet-devices.aspx fliptophead fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 09:09
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I'm having a bizarre problem. Our small office setup is basically: Modem ZTE ONU 127948 (fiber) -> Router (Asus N66U) -> Switch (3COM something) -> Assorted computers/phones (less than 20). Recently our WAN connection will drop for about 5 to 10 seconds and then reconnect. This happens intermittently about every 5-10 minutes, sometimes more often, sometimes less. Our ISP swears up and down that it's not their fault and that it must be something on our end. They say they've run ICMP tests and they've all come back normal. I've already tried hooking up a computer directly to the modem and strangely enough the connection issues seem to stop. The strange part is that I've already tried three different routers, one of which was our Linux server (handing out addresses via DHCPD) and the problem starts again once I plug them in. At this point it really looks like the problem only happens when something is handing out DHCP addresses and doing NAT. To add to my confusion about two weeks ago we had similar issues but that turned out to be a local problem due to a faulty fiber cable that served the the whole block. Our ISP came out fix the cable and the service was normal for about a week or so. An ISP tech is coming out on Monday after I basically threatened to cut out service, but I was hoping someone might have a clue about what's going on.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:51
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Did you recently start using OneDrive by chance? Had similar issues from one of the OneDrive network settings on my Asus router. Worth thinking about; only took one PC doing n initial sync to break things.
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Aug 7, 2015 05:16
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slyo posted:I'm from the Netherlands, this would be too much hassle with shipping overseas I ordered one of those, bricked it INSTANTLY changing the subnet. gently caress those things. Inside it, the main storage is some no-name 4GB USB stick. Not really my idea of high quality honestly. Mikrotik for the win.
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Aug 7, 2015 13:57
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redeyes posted:I ordered one of those, bricked it INSTANTLY changing the subnet. gently caress those things. Inside it, the main storage is some no-name 4GB USB stick. Not really my idea of high quality honestly. It's impossible to "brick" an edgerouter by changing the subnet. You can always reset the default config with a paperclip, or use a cisco console cable to get into the CLI and change it there. You could possibly brick the router if you disconnected power while upgrading the firmware but even that's repairable by re-flashing the USB stick on the device with a recovery firmware.
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Aug 7, 2015 16:27
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Walked posted:Did you recently start using OneDrive by chance? Had similar issues from one of the OneDrive network settings on my Asus router. Do you mean some sort of OneDrive setting baked into the ASUS router directly? A couple computers use One Drive, but they have been for a while. Out of curiousity, how did you end up fixing it?
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Aug 7, 2015 16:31
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redeyes posted:I ordered one of those, bricked it INSTANTLY changing the subnet. gently caress those things. Inside it, the main storage is some no-name 4GB USB stick. Not really my idea of high quality honestly. If you think Mikrotik is quality then you're in for a surprise.  They're also slow as balls unless you run bare minimum configs.
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Aug 7, 2015 17:21
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Prescription Combs posted:If you think Mikrotik is quality then you're in for a surprise. Slow as balls? I suppose a Wireless AC link at 866mbps over 600 ft for $200 bux is slow as balls.. or something. quote:It's impossible to "brick" an edgerouter by changing the subnet. You can always reset the default config with a paperclip, or use a cisco console cable to get into the CLI and change it there. You could possibly brick the router if you disconnected power while upgrading the firmware but even that's repairable by re-flashing the USB stick on the device with a recovery firmware. I reflashed the USB stick according to support, still bricked. Your post is wrong. I was only able to use that router for about 2 minutes total before it totally bricked.
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Aug 7, 2015 17:39
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redeyes posted:Slow as balls? I suppose a Wireless AC link at 866mbps over 600 ft for $200 bux is slow as balls.. or something. Then either the USB is defective or the router is. It happens no matter how good a product line is. RMA it.
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Aug 7, 2015 19:03
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fliptophead posted:What os are you using? thanks. worked perfectly.
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Aug 7, 2015 23:13
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fliptophead posted:What os are you using? Anyone know how I do basically the opposite of this? I want to share my computer's wired ethernet connection to other wireless devices on my network using a wireless adapter since the wireless signal is really weak in my room. Basically I'm trying to fix the lovely connection my consoles get in here. edit: I forgot to add I know about the ad-hoc wireless setting but it looks like my phone/consoles don't see it. cat doter fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 23:38
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cat doter posted:Anyone know how I do basically the opposite of this? I want to share my computer's wired ethernet connection to other wireless devices on my network using a wireless adapter since the wireless signal is really weak in my room. Basically I'm trying to fix the lovely connection my consoles get in here. Don't use ad-hoc. Windows 8 and 10 can be set up as a software based AP as well. (I'm assuming Windows since you didn't specify). Use the link below. Just ignore the "Laptop" in the title. As long as you have a wireless adapter and an Internet connection, it will work. http://www.howtogeek.com/112050/how-to-turn-your-windows-8-laptop-into-a-wireless-access-point/ For Windows 7, you use Soft AP. Ignore the  page design. The article actually has good information.http://blog.tommywck.com/2012/10/tutorial-use-your-windows-7-to-create.html Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 02:02
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redeyes posted:Slow as balls? I suppose a Wireless AC link at 866mbps over 600 ft for $200 bux is slow as balls.. or something "I need IPSec." "That router sucks cause mine was defective. But these radios, irrelevant t to the discussion are fast!" "..." Tapedump fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 02:56
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redeyes posted:Slow as balls? I suppose a Wireless AC link at 866mbps over 600 ft for $200 bux is slow as balls.. or something. If that's the case, changing the subnet isn't the cause of your issues. It was probably DOA from the start and you were lucky enough to get it boot that one time.
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Aug 8, 2015 03:16
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Tapedump posted:You're comparing radios to router(s). Stop this nonsense, please. And 600ft @ 866Mb/s for 802.11ac? Not legally and not with Omni Antennas. Maybe with a Yagi or a Pringles Can Antenna... but not with an Omni. The max range for 802.11ac with beam forming is 270-300(ish) ft. at 1.3 Gb/s (3x3 array) with perfect atmospheric conditions and ZERO occlusions between the client and AP. If he's bragging about 866Mb/s he's probably got a crappy 2x2 array. Either way, he's not getting 600 ft range without an repeater/extender or an FCC violation. It's also telling that 866Mb/s is pretty much the theoretical max for 2x2 arrays, which you will never get at the further reaches of the transmission range, let alone more then 2x the max range. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 03:31
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Sorry in advance if this is too basic a question, but I was wondering what the difference really is between 50 mbps down/10 up versus 25 down/4 up. The specific provider is RCN, and from poking around on the internet it looks like the actual speeds would come out to be more like 40 down/6 up and 20 down/3 up. I kind of get how that translates to, i.e., the speed a game or movie would download, but I'm not sure what it means for other stuff, like streaming video/online gaming etc. Basically all we need is a fast enough connection for 2 people to play games/stream movies/do internet stuff at the same time. It would be nice if I could also stream Hearthstone or some nonsense on Twitch, but that's less important. On a related note, depending of course on which speed we get, are specific criteria that we should look for in routers, or ones that are particularly suited for different speeds? Thanks in advance for the advice! I really wish I'd written this stuff down from previous places that I've lived, it seems like such a basic thing to have zero point of reference for.
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Aug 8, 2015 04:53
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foutre posted:Sorry in advance if this is too basic a question, but I was wondering what the difference really is between 50 mbps down/10 up versus 25 down/4 up. The specific provider is RCN, and from poking around on the internet it looks like the actual speeds would come out to be more like 40 down/6 up and 20 down/3 up. Honestly the 25 down/4up one is enough for that. You can always bump it up if you find out it's not also.
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Aug 8, 2015 04:59
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flosofl posted:And 600ft @ 866Mb/s for 802.11ac? Not legally and not with Omni Antennas. redeyes posted:Again my bad. Bottom line, my cat 5 and or RJ45 ends were bad. Swapped that out with a known good cable and I am sailing at 35-40MB/s (~320mbps) sustained over 500-600ft real speeds with Windows networking. "I need to core a bunch of apples." "This celery, while completely unrelated to the discussion, is delicious!" "..."
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Aug 8, 2015 05:09
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flosofl posted:Don't use ad-hoc. Windows 8 and 10 can be set up as a software based AP as well. (I'm assuming Windows since you didn't specify). Use the link below. Just ignore the "Laptop" in the title. As long as you have a wireless adapter and an Internet connection, it will work. Yeah I'm on windows 7, I should've mentioned. Thanks though, I'll start going through that second link now. Man that is an ugly website.
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Aug 8, 2015 05:22
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redeyes posted:Slow as balls? I suppose a Wireless AC link at 866mbps over 600 ft for $200 bux is slow as balls.. or something. That's a nice wireless link. But, I was referring to the router aspect of them vs. the wireless aspect which the ERL completely lacks anyway... Definitely sounds like you got a DOA device. My experience with an RB2011 and an Edgerouter Lite are light and day. The RB would poo poo itself at ~50Mbps with a handful of firewall rules. On the other hand, the ERL doesn't bat an eye with even more complex configuration as well as running an IPSec VPN. MTik software is buggy as hell and hardly anything on them is hardware accelerated.
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Aug 8, 2015 06:38
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My Internet is a POS, and I think I've narrowed it down to the router being unable to handle wireless requests, so I'm thinking gently caress it, I might as well just get a decent router and put the ISP's in bridge mode. I'm thinking of going with TP-Link's Archer C7, but before I pull the trigger, is there a reason it isn't in the OP's list of recommendations? Granted, the UI is an eyesore, but I can live with that as someone who's done his share of fiddling with routers.
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Aug 8, 2015 11:44
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ufarn posted:My Internet is a POS, and I think I've narrowed it down to the router being unable to handle wireless requests, so I'm thinking gently caress it, I might as well just get a decent router and put the ISP's in bridge mode. I'm thinking of going with TP-Link's Archer C7, but before I pull the trigger, is there a reason it isn't in the OP's list of recommendations? Granted, the UI is an eyesore, but I can live with that as someone who's done his share of fiddling with routers. OP is a little old and goons are lazy. A lot of goons have bought the C7 recently and most have had positive experiences with it.
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Aug 8, 2015 11:54
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Honestly the 25 down/4up one is enough for that. You can always bump it up if you find out it's not also. Thanks, that's a good point.
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Aug 8, 2015 19:09
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I have a setup of Dual band router, wired into Internet -> Powerline adapter -> Second router, 2.4ghz only The second router just extends the wifi network a bit further, covering outside mainly. Devices that use it are 2x iPhones, 2x iPads, 2x laptops. At the moment I have different ssids for the 2 channels of the main router and for the second router, so 3 in all. I've only just set the second router up, but my phone seems to prefer it. It may give a stronger wifi signal, but the overall network speed will be slower because of the powerline. Can anyone suggest how to set it up so that the iPhone's/pads prefer 5ghz > 2.4 main > 2.4 powerline? Cheers
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Aug 9, 2015 12:30
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Prescription Combs posted:That's a nice wireless link. But, I was referring to the router aspect of them vs. the wireless aspect which the ERL completely lacks anyway... Definitely sounds like you got a DOA device. Sorry, I thought this was the HOME networking thread. Granted a bunch of nerds will be firewalling up the wazoo with their router, but on the other side of the equation, the hAP lite Mikrotik is $25 and you can install one on a home network and basically forget about it. I call that good bang for the buck.  It's bouncing around a tad but that is pretty fast! I was bitching about the EdgeRouter because it DOES actually have a generic no-name memory stick as its main storage. I don't really consider 4GB memory sticks enterprise class... I just picked up a RB951G-2HnD which is a 1000mw 2.4Ghz AP, 5 gigabit ports, USB, and a 600 Mhz atheros, 128MB RAM. Seems to get great reviews and I am just going to be routing my business network with it. For $80 can someone recommend something that is as/more stable? I honestly don't use a lot of features, couple firewall rules, etc. I am totally open to better routers but its kind of hard to beat the bang for the buck with these. redeyes fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 14:45
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Wish I could buy ubiquiti gear from brick & mortar stores 
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Aug 9, 2015 14:51
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redeyes posted:Sorry, I thought this was the HOME networking thread. And, you're comparing radios to router(s). Stop this nonsense, please. I'm out and will stop plugging up a good thread with your lack of basic comprehension and excess of stubbornness. /blocked (apologies to other posters) http://i.imgur.com/H7hkHVK.png Tapedump fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 16:32
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Tapedump posted:You. You're the one who chimed in (with your unrelated radio experiences) when asked about an IPsec VPN site to site (with your unrelated, and turned-out-to-be-falsely-reported radio experiences). In a HOME thread (emphasis yours). You are an angry person. Sorry for that.
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Aug 9, 2015 17:22
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